66 cooper S full restoration

Started by 94touring, November 05, 2016, 07:15:00 PM

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tsumini

I think that happened to me every time I touched something. Then I would goof it up then have to re-do it. I've done everything twice so I've restored it twice. Good experience.

MiniDave

#176
More electrical work.....

The owner has both a TomTom and a GoPro he wanted wired in, and he also wanted a power socket so he can charge his phone. I also needed a power source to run the little washer pump motor. To run all these I decided to set up another sub fuse panel, it's located on the flat part of the dash panel, and because he has a wood dash, it will be hidden but still accessible thru the glove box door. Power comes off the ignition switch and is currently set up to come on with the switch. If he decides he wants them hot all the time it's easy enough to simply move the feed onto another terminal on the ignition switch.

The paint color on the switch panel looks very blue next to the green, even tho the can said "light machinery grey"

So TomTom......done and tested
GoPro.....done
Power socket....done
Washer pump....done
Rally lights....done

I've started testing the other equipment too....wipers work, so do the park lights although the right rear doesn't light, need to see if it's a ground problem or a bulb. Fuel pump runs, motor cranks although I haven't put any fuel in the tanks yet. Till I get everything electrical done I don't want to put gas in them in case I have to remove one or both again.

I haven't located the feed wires for the heater yet, I may have to just make up my own. The two red wires hanging down also need to get located to the light switch - they're for the dash lights.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

tmsmini

I think you might find that the power feed for the heater is shared with the power feed to the wiper switch. The Traveller with the "Deluxe" gauges seems to share the wiring with the early S.

While looking for a feed for the electronic gauges, speedo etc., I used the feed from the voltage stabilizer which I found out piggy back feeds to both the heater fan and wipers. I am not sure how this was wrapped in the harness originally or what years it was like this. As there were only two fuses, alot of shared and piggyback wiring existed.
The new fancy electronic gauges did not like it when the wipers were turned on. It has been suggested to use a relay to feed the gauges from the brown wire fuse section.

MiniDave

#178
As the heater has a bullet end on the feed wire I figured there should be a wire somewhere that it plugs into - I just haven't found that loose end yet.....it might be hidden up in the instrument cluster wiring that Dan already had plugged in or I just haven't located it yet - but if there's no loose wire anywhere I'll make one. With only two fuses there are only two circuits really - hot all the time and those switched by the ignition - ie: those green wires. It should have one of those.....

That's also why I did a separate fuse panel for the accessories, if something quits working it'll be easier to check and find the issue, and since all of those accessories are very light loads one 14 ga feed from the ignition switch is all they need.

I did use a relay for the rally lights as the supplied switch is very light duty.

All the panel switches are new - wipers, lights and ignition.

I just need to make sure everything in the cluster, T/S switch and switch panel are working correctly before I put the heater in place. Once that's done I'm close to being done with the car, still need to install the seat belts and the wide band set-up. Oh, and the dash, once the parts from Dan get here.....

Edit: The owner would like the GoPro and TomTom on the live feed, so I'll make that change for him.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MiniDave

#179
Quote from: tmsmini on November 20, 2019, 09:01:18 AM
I think you might find that the power feed for the heater is shared with the power feed to the wiper switch. The Traveller with the "Deluxe" gauges seems to share the wiring with the early S.

While looking for a feed for the electronic gauges, speedo etc., I used the feed from the voltage stabilizer which I found out piggy back feeds to both the heater fan and wipers. I am not sure how this was wrapped in the harness originally or what years it was like this. As there were only two fuses, alot of shared and piggyback wiring existed.
The new fancy electronic gauges did not like it when the wipers were turned on. It has been suggested to use a relay to feed the gauges from the brown wire fuse section

The feed from the voltage stabilizer (light green) is only 9 volts, I'm surprised your electronic gauges worked at all from that.....the feed TO the voltage stabilizer (DK green) is 12 V, maybe that's why when you run the wipers the gauges don't like it. I would have run a separate feed wire for the gauges , directly off the fuse block. They don't require hardly any amperage so it won't overload that fuse but most electronic gauges are voltage sensitive. Taking the power off the wiper - when the wiper motor starts up the inrush current could drop the voltage momentarily, and it would do it every time the wipers changed direction too.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

tmsmini

Quote from: MiniDave on November 20, 2019, 09:34:20 AM

The feed from the voltage stabilizer (light green) is only 9 volts, I'm surprised your electronic gauges worked at all from that.....the feed TO the voltage stabilizer (DK green) is 12 V, maybe that's why when you run the wipers the gauges don't like it. I would have run a separate feed wire for the gauges , directly off the fuse block. They don't require hardly any amperage so it won't overload that fuse but most electronic gauges are voltage sensitive. Taking the power off the wiper - when the wiper motor starts up the inrush current could drop the voltage momentarily, and it would do it every time the wipers changed direction too.
I wasn't clear. The 12 V power feed to the voltage stabilizer has a piggy back connection that then feeds other items, wiper switch and heater fan. I no longer have a voltage stabilizer, newer electronic speedo, electronic oil and coolant gauges. I was just using the 12 V green that feeds the stabilizer. Now I have a separate wire for the gauges and let the original wire feed the wiper switch and fan. Still might add the relay.

MiniDave

#181
OK, we're on the same page now!   77.gif

Pulling your power from the brown side of the fuse panel would give you a better more stable voltage - but then you'd need the relay to turn the gauges on/off by wiring the control circuit of the relay to the ignition side of the fuse panel - that would definitely give you a cleaner power source.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

tmsmini

I am assuming you have this version of the wiring diagram.

MiniDave

Yes, I have the factory manual that has that one in it.....the harness we have is for a car with a generator, but we fitted this car with an alternator, so I had to make a few modifications.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MiniDave

#184
More progress....

More electrical work done - all the dash lights work now, I also got the tail lights and brake lights working - the taillight was just a bulb. GoPro and TomTom are wired hot per the owners instructions, but I still have to do the wideband - I had to order a bracket first to mount the dial but I can go ahead and plan where to mount the o2 sensor and weld in the bung, then run the wiring up to the dash. Last thing electrical I need to do is finish wiring the t/s switch and horn. I also got the speedo cable installed. I ordered a new choke cable but got the wrong one so I need to re-order that.

I put in the heater control cable and once the T/S switch is done I can bolt in the heater - then I can run the new heater hoses and top off the coolant.

Tonight I got all the gauges installed and hooked up, and the brackets to attach the wood dash in, then mounted the wood dash - however I think I need some different screws to mount the metal surround to the speedo housing as the heads of the screws hold the wood up off the bracket instead of letting it fit flush. I used pan head screws and I think I need flat heads

With that all done I'll be ready to fire it up.... and maybe take it for a spin!

Edit: forgot, still need to install the handbrake cables and seat belts.....
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MiniDave

#185
And another step backwards.....

Trying to hook up the transmission end of the speedo cable I found I couldn't turn the cable end, so I went back up to the instruments end and took the cable out and inserted a small length of inner speedo cable - the speedo is locked up tight.

So I have to disassemble the entire dash again to get the speedo out.

I ordered a new one, till then I'll go ahead with work on the rest of the car.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MiniDave

#186
Tonight I installed the wideband.

First I had to remove the exhaust system, everything from the header back. I had to remove the collector off the header as there were no clamps on it - they are the band style clamps as there's no room between the pipes for regular saddle clamps.

I drilled the hole for the wideband bung and welded it in the pipe, then put it all back together. I ran the cables into the car and hooked it all up, but I won't be able to install the gauge till I get the bracket I ordered. Had to do a little reshaping of the pipe too.....

I'm hopeful that the parts from MiniSpares will get here before the holiday as they've been getting stuff out really quickly lately, but with the holidays it may get delayed.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MiniDave

This evenings work....

I installed the e-brake cables - a thankless job, especially on my lift - a scissor lift is the least ideal arrangement when it comes to working down the middle of the car. But first I had to remove the other cable - it was for a later model car and would not work with this one. Once I got the old one out - which was a single piece cable - I had to install the right ones, which were individual left and right cables.

All done and adjusted now.

Before I can change the locks to match each other I'll have to get a new handle as this one is broken, I added it to the speedo order, I hope they can add it in and ship with the other parts.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MiniDave

#188
Back to work on the '66 Cooper S.......

All the lights have been tested and they work - and no smoke leaked out!

I still don't have the horn working, looking into that.

I had to do a small repair to the speedo housing so I'm waiting for the JB to cure before I re-assemble the dash again, probably not be able to finish that till tomorrow. I also mounted the wideband gauge in the bracket I bought - there were no clips or anything so I just ran some clear silicone around the back and mounted it that way - should work just fine.

I had to get another bulb holder for the temp gauge, and I had to establish grounds for all the instruments.

I took the left door handle and boot handle up to the local locksmith - who was not amused that I keep bringing this old British stuff to him to fix - but he said he'll give it his best shot. The boot latch is siezed, we may not be able to save it and might wind up just buying a whole new lockset.

I also got the new kick panel installed, getting the old rivet heads out without scratching the door was not fun.

Lots of little jobs completed, moving right along now, still have a lot to do but several mountains have been scaled at this point!  77.gif
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

tsumini

Don't know how bad the damage was on the binnacle hole but have repaired damaged holes effectively with fiberglass. I think it is paper infused with resin and is pretty similar to fiberglass. Filling and building around the hole works pretty well.

MiniDave

The area around the hole was cracked so I just used a large washer - the JB Weld didn't really hold but the housing is well secured to the bulkhead so it will hold just fine.

I got the dash installed, but I may wind up taking it all back out again tomorrow as I didn't hook up the speedo cable to the speedo and I'm not sure I can get it on as I can't get my hand around the Weber carb.

I also went to a lot of trouble to set up a stud to locate a bunch of ground cables but then once the housing was in place some of them wouldn't reach so now I'll have to set up another.

So, steps forward and then back again.

I also had a fit with the fuel gauge, I had speedo installed and was testing the electrical system and noticed the fuel gauge was pegged full - but the tank is empty. Several hours of testing later I decided the problem was the gauge itself, so I swapped in the old one and it works perfectly now.

So tomorrow - speedo cable, grounds, seat belts, heater and a few other bits and bobs and it's ready to start. We've already had it running but I think this will be the first actual drive.....assuming it does.  77.gif
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MiniDave

#191
Went to install the heater, but found I don't have the extension stud that allows you to set the heater left or right depending on whether its a LHD or RHD car. Dan will see if he has one Friday when he gets home again, I looked but found no mention of it on any of the parts sites.

So next up I mounted the seat belts. It's interesting that this car has all the threaded holes to mount the belts except the ones that mount the reel. On later cars the reel is mounted inside the companion bins, but on these early cars that have ashtrays the belt would rub if I mounted it in there, so they have to go on the outside, which does limit seat travel a bit.

More as it happens....

Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MPlayle

I do not recall when the reel style belts came into use.  I do remember that the very first series of 3-point front belts were not the reel kind.  The bottom mount was either the outside of the front of the companion box or the inner sill.  If the inner sill, then there might be carpet trim that is covering the captive nut.


MiniDave

The one end of the three point does mount to the sill, and there is a threaded hole there, and there is one on the B pillar, and one on the tunnel for the end that plugs in. I drilled some holes as low as possible on the companion bin for the reel to mount to and used the supplied large washer on the inside to help brace it. Dunno if that would keep it from tearing out in an accident, but that's how they come. Short of welding in some sort of brace plate, that's as good as it gets.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MiniDave

#194
Success and failure......

I've been working off and on trying to get the lock in the boot latch to work....I've put about a whole can of Kroil thru it and it felt like just one or maybe two of the tumblers was still stuck. The locksmith just threw up his hands and said he couldn't do anything with it. I've had English car locksets apart before so I stuck with it and today - at last! - I managed to get the lock cylinder out of the handle......sure enough, a couple of the tumblers were still stuck with corrosion, but after cleaning everything up it worked perfectly.

Then I noticed the broken part on the end of the lock cylinder - the part that actually makes the handle lock the boot! It's made from pot metal and I have no idea what it's supposed to even look like for sure, so there's no way I can make one.....I have an idea of what it should look like but again...pot metal. And it's part of the lock cylinder casting, so no hope.

So today I ordered a new boot handle assembly from MiniSpares, when it gets here I can transfer either the lock cylinder or just the tumblers into the new one and he'll still have a matching key set. A new lock is only about £12, so there's no reason not to just get the new one.

Onward and upward!

In the second pic you can see where something is broken off the end of the lock cylinder, in the first pic the small block is what is driven by the missing part - the block is what keeps the handle from turning and locks the latch.

Oh, I also got the horn sorted!
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MiniDave

#195
I came up with a way to mount the dome light wires with crimp on ends so I wouldn't have to use bullet ends, Dan can mount the light once he's happy with the headliner. I also got the speedo cable on the speedo and mounted the ground wires, so I think the dash is pretty much done too. I also mounted the inner seatbelt latches......I think all that's left are the heater and rear boot lock assy, once the parts get here next week sometime. I also got a new battery for it, although I still need to run up to Vicky Brits and get the hold down j-bolts. Getting the speedo cable on involved removing the air cleaner and its baseplate so I could get my hand in there, and I had to remove the choke linkage on the carb so I could slightly drill out the arm to accept the choke cable trunnion.

I have to sit down and read the instructions on the camera, every time I disconnect and reconnect the battery the thing switches on - I don't know if it's been recording me the last few days or what!

Dan should be home over the weekend, so soon he'll bring the Inno back and we'll swap cars again. I'll be happy to see this one leave and then I can finish up the Inno, which is really close to being done too.

I have three Sprite gearboxes waiting to be rebuilt, but those go pretty quickly, and Clancy may need some help buttoning up the Moke one of these days. Once all that work is done I'm probably going to retire for a bit and have my knee replaced sometime in late Feb or early March - at last! It's been bothering me for about 10 years now and it's really gotten bad the last 6 months or so.

Once I'm up and around again I have some brake work to do on my Racing Green car unless I get it done in the next few weeks.

I'm also going to upgrade my electrical panel on the house so I can add a bigger air compressor and a media blast cabinet, and get my basement re-organized and cleaned out once and for all.

I've never been so busy as when I retired!
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Jimini II

Busy busy !!!!
Most retired people I have spoken too after retiring claim they do not know how they found the time to go to work.

MiniDave

#197
More work on the 66, I decided to hook up the dome light after re-engineering how the wires attach, and it didn't work. So I got out my trusty 12V test light - no power to the light......hmmmm.

So, I checked the wire group under the scuttle and found one wire disconnected, and several that were almost so - the first good bump and some of them would have quit working. However, in order to get to the bunch of wires in that harness I had to remove the wiper assembly as the wires were partly wound around the cross pipe.

That led to another discovery - the fitting that the wiper tube attaches to was cross threaded and partly stripped - I noticed that when the wipers worked they were noisy and slow - I think I found out why. So, yet another trip up to Victoria British - fortunately they carry a fitting - it's a little different but it can be modified to work, which I did. I also disassembled the entire wiper assembly and cleaned and re-greased it all. Now it's much smoother and quieter.....

Back to the wiring.....I also found the wire to the fuel gauge was broken right at the bullet fitting, so I had to make up a short length and splice it into the harness. I also decided enough was enough and made my self a tool to push the Lucas bullets into the tubes. I just took an old pair of farmer pliers and sliced a notch in the jaws - worked a TREAT! I was considering buying the tool that does this but once I looked at it I figured I could make one.

So, first the wiper assembly went in, then I used my new tool to insert all the wires in the tubes and viola! it all works now.

Only took about 4 hours...... ::)
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad


MiniDave

Thanks!

This project is finally coming to and end - at least at my shop, and I know Dan will be as happy to see the tail lights going over the curb as the owner to finally get behind the wheel and drive.

Today's work....first another step backwards. I leave the doors ajar as there's no reason to latch them, and today I tried to close one and found that it was hitting the door pocket on my freshly installed seat belt reel! I was racking my brains trying to figure out an alternate mounting when the solution hit me in the head - no that was the seat. Anyway, I found that if I just moved them down further, the door bin went right over the top of the reel and didn't impede their use at all. So, two new holes later they're done and work perfectly.

My next project was to install the heater assembly and plumb it up. First I had to make an extension of one if the rear mounting studs - they are offset to allow more room for the accelerator pedal. I didn't take any pics of it but simply welded a nut to the head of a 1" bolt....worked a treat.

Before I could mount the heater I had to make some small modifications to the carpet - cutting a hole to mount the accelerator, cutting around the foot operated dimmer switch and a few other bits. I musta had the piece of carpet in and out of there 20 times before it was all right. Once that was done, it was back to the heater.

Mounting it up is pretty easy, just locate the studs on the mounting brackets on the bulkhead, tighten the right side to pull it as far to the right as it will go, then tighten the left side too. Then you swing it up and run two screws up into their speed nuts and that part is done. After that, just tidy up the wires and make and hook up the two heater hoses. Job done. I still have a knob for the flap control coming, it was broken.

I installed one of those little breather filters on the breather and I think the engine compartment is done now too.

Two things left to do - install the new boot latch assembly after I re-key it to match the door......and one other thing has come to light. After I installed the new battery and hold down I went to tighten the negative cable to the body and the bolt just spun. So I'm going to try and drill the captive nut out and re-thread it for a 3/8 bolt....hope that works!
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad