MK1 instrument lights fuse

Started by Coalhod, November 04, 2016, 09:04:19 AM

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Coalhod

Hello and apologies if this has already been discussed tried a search but no luck.

Anyway, I would like to fuse the instrument light section as I had a short a few years ago which made for an exciting time!  Probably a 10 amp blade fuse would suffice?

Anyone tried this?  I could use a glass fuse just thought the blade type would be easier to identify if it blows.  Probably have to mount it somewhere under the dashboard panel.

Thanks,

Andy

MiniDave

Aren't the lights fused anyway, off the bottom fuse in the 4 fuse holder?

To answer your question directly, yes a small blade style inline fuse would do the trick...I think 5 amp would suffice.

Oh, and welcome to the forum!
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Coalhod

Dave thanks!

It's a 1962 and has a 2 fuse fuse block and the light switch is always hot.  I put extra gauges on it years ago & due to my ham fisted connections had a short whereupon I found out the hard way that British fuse ratings are different than U.S. and the U.S. 35 amp would not blow but instead started a fire at the wiring loom behind the speedometer.  Got the fire out and replaced the wiring, just wanted to add some extra insurance.  Installed the proper British rated fuses (17 amp instantaneous/35 amp full load).  Also found out by way of another forum that SFE 20 glass fuses will work in the fuse block.

I have been lurking here for some time mostly for bodywork/paint info - my car was sprayed in lacquer years ago and I have heard lacquer is illegal?  The lacquer looked great initially but has crazed over the years so a respray is due with more modern materials.

Will put the 5 amp blade fuse in, peace of mind for the future.

Andy

BruceK

On my '65 Mini Traveller, I had the same concerns as any sane person would about the car's whole electrical system using just 2 fuses.  Granted, the electrical system of a Mk. I Mini is quite simple, but more fuse protection is never a bad thing.

I wanted a solution that did not cut any original wires/connectors and was reversible if the next owner wanted to go back to 100% original. 

It was about 15 years ago I did this (and I no longer have the car) but if memory serves, what I did was simply make up short lengths of wire, perhaps 4 inches long, with an in-line blade fuse holder in the middle - on one end was a female spade connecter, and the other end of the wire was a male connector.  I placed these little fused wires in-line to the lights and wipers toggle switch connectors, just behind the switches themselves, underneath the switch panel.  I was able to tuck them out of the way so they could not be seen, but could be pulled down to check the fuse if needed.   Using the same method, I also installed inline blade fuses other places around the car, such as for the fuel pump (yes, I know it was already fused, but I wanted a belts and suspenders approach).
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara