Rear hub question

Started by John Gervais, October 22, 2016, 04:13:49 PM

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John Gervais

I noticed a slight amount of movement in my right rear hub today when I decided to bathe myself in Waxoyl.

The rear of the car was on jackstands, the wheel/tire still torqued to the hub.  I found that with my hands at 12 & 6 o'clock I could wiggle the assembly about a tiny amount (vertically), but not side to side (horizontally).  The bearings are genuine Timken GHK1548 and I've a spare (2 sets) in a box if necessary.  I couldn't see any movement at the radius arm shaft.

Once the wheel was off, everything felt solid. 

The left hand side has zero movement in any direction.

Now, I've got 3 extra rear hubs from who knows where and with unknown history, so I could use one if needed. 

If there's a problem with my current hub, I could replace it with one of the 'unknowns', but is there any known measurement or means of checking to see if my current hub has a problem? 

I've also heard that one should have a bit of end-play (0.001 - 0.007" according to the attached .pdf), so maybe my left hand side is actually a tad too tight, though it spins smoothly.
- Pave the Bay -

MiniDave

I don't know that you can feel .001 of play, but I've been repacking front bearings like this for decades -  what I was taught to do is tighten the nut till it binds a bit while spinning the wheel, loosen the nut and tighten again till there is no noticeable play without causing the wheel to bind or slow down......I've never had a problem doing it this way.

I've always wanted mine to have no drag but no feel-able play either.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

John Gervais

I've got both sides torqued to the Haynes and Workshop manuals specified 60 lbs/ft.


When do you think you'll have the rear of your mini in the air?  Do you think you'd be able to pull on a wheel and check for any wiggle?  I really don't know if this is something I should waste time (or a bearing set) on...
- Pave the Bay -

MiniDave

Mine have no play in them.......but 60 ft lbs of torque? Do these have a spacer in between the inner and outer like the fronts?
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

John Gervais

#4
Yes, 60 lbs, that's what the books say...

The rear hubs have a built-in stop for the outer cup and the inner cones have a spacer that butt against each other.

RLH10021


GHK1548/GHK1805

- Pave the Bay -

94touring

Rears take very little torque, front disc are something like 188ft lbs, then onto the next hole.  So really damn tight. 

Could your swivel arms have some play in the shafts?

MiniDave

So, if you have play then tightening the nut wouldn't have any effect on the play.......unless the nut is loose. I'll have to look into this further.....

I just helped a buddy repack his rear bearings on his P'up and they were not made like this, they were just normal looking tapered roller bearings - that's what I was basing my comments on.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

John Gervais

#7
My radius arms could have some play in the shafts, for sure - they're on the 'big list of things to do someday', but I can't see/feel any movement at the outside radius arm pivot (just inside the bracket) and I do keep them well greased.  These bearings have been in the car for years, and the car hasn't seen much use. 

(Y'all with the perfect cars would be appalled by the amount of grease & grime under my mini.)

I found an old MM thread as well as a better representation of the bearings (they look the same as mine):

Changing_rear_bearings_from_roller_to_tapered



The Rover MPI workshop manual doesn't have a torque spec for the rear wheel bearing whereas the old manuals do:


Incidentally, if you need the torque spec for the BIG bolt/single bolt late-model front subframes, here it is -
- Pave the Bay -