The Dumb Questions Thread - aka 'Help Please!'

Started by BruceK, October 07, 2016, 09:17:27 AM

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BruceK

I'm creating this thread as the name implies, as a place to ask dumb questions.  Or at least questions I don't know the answers to.  I'll start off, but join in with me and ask your own dumb questions. Somebody is bound to have an answer (or at least have an opinion).


I need to replace all the front subframe mountings (rubber-mounted subframe) on my Mini.  I have done this job before when rebuilding a car when everything was apart and with an empty subframe - it was a breeze to do.  But now I need to do it on a car fully equipped for the road with an engine sitting in the subframe.   

I have no issues doing the front and rear mounts, but to change out the upper strut tower mounts I could use some advice.  I don't know how far I will need to drop the subframe to gain access to change out that upper mount.  I am hoping it won't need to involve disconnecting a bunch of stuff between the subframe and the body (exhaust, brake lines, cables, wiring, etc).  And I'm not too comfortable jacking the Mini up by only the body itself (even when spreading the load with boards) and then releasing the subframe down on jack.  And I guess the alternative method is to leave the car sitting on its wheels on the ground and then release the subframe mounts and gently lift the body up to gain access, right? 
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

MiniDave

Do you have a DIY place nearby, or a friend with a lift? If there ever was a job asking for a lift this has to be it. I'll take a good hard look at my car and see what I can learn, but I can't imagine you'd need to lower it very far to get the old ones out and the new ones in again.

I don't know why you're worried about the body, I was able to lift Rusty with nothing but air supporting it!   ;D ;D ;D ;D

And I'll just leave this here.....

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200386167_200386167?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Automotive%20%3E%20Automotive%20Lifts&utm_campaign=Dannmar&utm_content=790007&gclid=COaqlfSQyc8CFQotaQod0t8Ppg
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

BruceK

Nope, I don't know of anyone with a lift.  And while that one at NorthernTool looks nice I'm not about to invest big bucks to have one installed at this house where I don't want to be living anyway.

Not to sound like a pessimist, but taking it to a DIY place sounds like a potential nightmare - all I need is for one thing to go wrong where I can't get the car off the lift promptly and the meter will just keep running up the $$$.
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

MiniDave

Ummmm, the point of the MaxJack is that it's portable (it's all on wheels, watch the vid on the link)  - you take it with you when you move!  4.gif

Still, you have a smooth concrete floor so, set the car on jackstands and put your floor jack under the engine, disconnect everything and lower it and the subframe down just enough. Seems to me that the exhaust and everything will come down with the motor, so if you don't come down too far it should be fine. I'm not sure how you will reach the rubbers - from the side or the front - but it seems like it shouldn't take much to get them out.

I agree that Mini Spares hybrid kit looks like a good idea...I just saw those recently.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

John Gervais

You should only need to drop the subby about ½ inch or so, so I'd start by supporting the body at the toeboard on wooden-block or thick rubber-block paddeed jack stands, support the gearbox on a wooden 2x6 between the gearbox and jack, loosen the front teardrops, loosen the tower bolts about 3/4" (leave them threaded loosely), loosen the rear mounts and carefully lower the engine/subframe assembly. 

You shouldn't have any difficulty worming (might need to use a hook or pick) the sandwiched rubber pad out from the engine compartment.  I took this picture when I was in the middle of my fog/driving lamp installation and haven't any pictures of the other side.
- Pave the Bay -

BruceK

Thanks Dave and John.  Now that you point it out and I take a really good look, it seems like it will be relatively easy to pull the existing rubber mount out near the radiator side.  However, it will be a lot more tricky on the clutch side - my car has all sorts of crap crammed into that area.   Looks like the subframe will only need to be dropped an inch or two, so unlikely anything will need to disconnected.
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

John Gervais

The sandwiched mount straddles the top of the subframe nipple, so you'll wanna ensure that it sits properly - oh, and as the bolt passes through the mount, you'll need to remove the center bolt to get it in there.
- Pave the Bay -