67 MK-II Moke

Started by MPlayle, October 02, 2016, 01:26:28 PM

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jedduh01

195-205-210 I really wouldn't be afraid.   As long as the system is pressurizing and holding pressure its working OK. some motors just do run ' warmer.  and when  it gets 100+ degree summer weather in Texas i really doubt you'll be really driving the Moke as you would boil too!


If you wanted a bit of 'extra' security plumbing in a ' auxiliary Radiator would be advisable.  They've proven to help + give that extra coverage in some cases.  Extra capacity + just a bit more heat extraction

Looking at your setup would take a little bit of parts and work.   you would need to un cork the rear heater tap in your head  and add a heater hose with a heater outlet are the 'most' advisable connection points for a 'heat 'extractor"

MPlayle

It is indeed pressurizing and it is not overflowing in any manner.  The coolant is still clean.


94touring

You're better off running on the slight hot side than too cool anyways.  The aux rad for summers may be the way to go if you become concerned with overheating. 

MPlayle

I just realized I may have also been "shooting myself in the foot" to a certain degree.

I have the front license plate mounted in the center of the grill.  This is restricting the amount of air getting into the engine bay by at least 1/4 to 1/3 of the grill opening.

I am going to move the plate down to some 'L' brackets mounted to the tow bar and see what that does.


BruceK

Quote from: MPlayle on May 30, 2018, 10:15:23 AM
I just realized I may have also been "shooting myself in the foot" to a certain degree.

I have the front license plate mounted in the center of the grill.  This is restricting the amount of air getting into the engine bay by at least 1/4 to 1/3 of the grill opening.

I am going to move the plate down to some 'L' brackets mounted to the tow bar and see what that does.

I bet that is it. 
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

Jimini II

Also something else to consider. I had a friend who put a used 1275 in his Mini and could not get it to run cool or even normal.
After going through everything he finally pulled the engine and found out there was a build up of sludge that i presume had hardened up somewhat while the engine sat for a long period before being installed by him which resulted in blocked waterways.
I would remove the anti freeze and try some of that radiator/engine block cleaner and use it for a few days to see what may break loose.

MPlayle

Moving the license plate from the grill to below the bumper helped a little bit more.  Shaved about 5* off the running temp - stayed to 205* tops on the highway at 70 mph.

From here it think it is due mostly to where the longer sensor ends up sitting deeper into the head and much closer to the #1 combustion chamber than the factory sensors.


Willie_B

Michael, are you running your water temp sensor straight into the head or do you have an adapter? If I screw my unit straight in it runs into metal inside before it tightens. With the adapter/spacer there is between 3/8" and 1/2" space.

MiniDave

#483
I use an adaptor too......I couldn't make mine tighten up too, I figured they all needed it (with the capillary style temp gauge)

Parts 55 and 56 on this page.....

http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/sm/full.aspx?Page=78
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MPlayle

I am not using an adapter.  Mine was just able to tighten up without one.  It probably would have been better to have used one.  That may make the final difference in how warm my gauge reads.

I'll put getting the adapter on the list.


BruceK

Off topic, but on topic: Michael have you posted some good photos of the finished Moke out of the garage?   If so, I've missed them.  Can you share how the finished car came out?
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

MPlayle

I have not yet taken photos of the finished Moke out of the garage.  I need to do that as well.


MPlayle

Found a suitable adapter at Home Depot today.  I did have to drill out the center hole to a larger diameter - used the old electrical sender from the old head as a measuring guide.  I will syphon out a bunch of coolant to minimize the mess and lost coolant and install the adapter Wednesday. 

I have a cardio appointment tomorrow and I want to get another thermostat gasket.


MPlayle

Installed the adapter today.  Below are pictures of the capillary tube location before and after installing the adapter.


Willie_B

That looks much better.

MPlayle

I will fill and leak test it tomorrow after the new gasket seals.  I use the "Fel-Pro" paper thermostat gaskets and give them a thin coat of Permatex Grey gasket maker sealant.  It should be good after sitting overnight tonight.


MPlayle

Well, partial success.  The adapter and sensor are not leaking, but one of the thermostat housing studs is leaking.  It seeps out under the nut, so either the gasket did not seal on the inside near that stud, or it is leaking up the threads. 

When I tried to remove the nut to check it, the stud backed out.  Time to syphon the fluid back down and make another try at getting the thermostat housing properly sealed.  (I did remember to get an extra gasket when starting this effort.)




MiniDave

Good idea, I always get two also, now I have a stack of them! My trick is to glue the gasket to the housing and put a layer of grease on the cylinder head side, then I can take it on and off and the gasket is still good as it doesn't tear. I do the same with the valve cover gaskets.

On the stud, smear some of that gasket sealer on the threads before you screw it back in and it won't leak anymore. Worst case, you can put a little RTV around the top of the stud after you install the housing, then put a flat wahser under the nut - that will seal it for sure. I had to do thid with a few of the head studs on my old Jag as water would work it's way up the stud and out from under the acorn nuts.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MPlayle

I do the grease trick with the valve cover gasket, but hove not tried it with the thermostat gasket.

Removing the housing to clean up the leaking gasket and the other two studs backed out.  Letting it all dry before going at it again.  I also have one of the cork/rubber gaskets I may try instead.


MPlayle

I put a small amount of the gasket seal stuff around the bottom threads of the studs before putting them back into the head (as per Dave's suggestion).  I got them in tight (I think) using a set of vice/mole grips to grab and tighten them into the head.

I then decided to use the cork/rubber gasket this time (slightly thicker) along with sealant on both sides.  I have it all back together and drying.  I will do the fill and test again tomorrow.

Fingers crossed I don't have a leak.


BruceK

#495
Quote from: MPlayle on June 21, 2018, 01:01:10 PM
  I got them in tight (I think) using a set of vice/mole grips to grab and tighten them into the head.


Here's a different way: Install the stud finger-tight into the head.  Then thread two nuts on it and lock them against each other by turning them in opposite directions. Once they are locked together and immovable as a pair you can tighten the top one which will turn the stud into the head and get it as tight as you want - including torquing it to the right figure.     Then release the two nuts and back them off the stud.   
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

MPlayle

I've done that method before.  It did not want to cooperate on these when I first had them back out - before putting any sealant on the threads.


MPlayle

I seem to have fixed the leak.  I will try to get it out for a drive test this afternoon after a doctor appointment.


MiniDave

Excellent, be interested to hear if the temp gauge reads differently. Is it still just as hot there? We've had rain the last few days so it's cooled off here - humidity is still a million per cent, but at least it's not 90*
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MPlayle

Still just as hot here, maybe a few degrees hotter than in May.  Weather sites were reporting 98* and 99* when I checked coming back from the doctor's.  I took the Moke out anyway and went to the bank - was going to get it onto the highway coming back, but it was into 5:00 Friday traffic and the highway was already stacked up and playing "parking lot".

I did go through stop-n-go traffic in the heat and the temp gauge peaked at 195* while sitting still at idle.  It would drop back to 180*-185* when going with the revs in the right spot.  At a steady 45-50 mph for a bit it would creep back up to about 190*.   Never cracked 200* as it had been doing before.

The position of the tip of the capillary tube sensor does make a significant difference.

I confirmed the accuracy of the gauge again using the laser gun.  The gauge does read accurate.

I have almost all the little "teething pain" bits from doing a full restoration completed.  I still need to address the slightly soft brake feel now that they are bedded in and then a few cosmetic touch ups from the assembly (careless bumping of the rear valance when installing the rear subframe, brake fluid dripping from doing the pressure bleed and having the cap leak, a dropped tool here and there sort of thing).