Author Topic: 67 MK-II Moke  (Read 64620 times)

Offline MPlayle

Re: 67 MK-II Moke
« Reply #375 on: March 13, 2018, 04:28:13 PM »
I am running the factory stock joined intake/exhaust manifold and a mostly stock exhaust system: stock Moke/998 main pipe with a dual tip back box.

I'll see how the pancake filters turn out.  I may opt for an adjustable engine steady to push the engine forward slightly more and go back to the K&N cone if the thin pancake filters don't do the trick.


Offline Jimini II

Re: 67 MK-II Moke
« Reply #376 on: March 14, 2018, 09:13:17 AM »
If you decide to use an adjustable engine steady you will need a flex joint in the exhaust down pipe other wise it will start blowing and usually crack around the flange area. With the adjustable stabilizer it may look weird where the radiator meets the cowl. The thinner pancake filters restrict the flow moreso than the one you have.
Another option would be to move the engine mounting points forward as they did on the 90's 1275 HIF carbed Mini's.

Offline jedduh01

Re: 67 MK-II Moke
« Reply #377 on: March 14, 2018, 09:21:57 AM »
Just another suggestion...

Loose the cork gasket from the filter base to the Carb.
  ( you could cut a basic Paper thinner gasket if you ReALLY want one in there)

This will also require modification of the filter base == That big screw that's touching the Dashpot TTOP cover  will need to go.
 I previously have welded the filter stud on the inside of the fiilter base   and then remove the screw.

This will gain you a few mm.


 Longer engine steady = perhaps just a little bit. =  but like mentioned will angle engine more + shifter hole will be affected along with the  angle of exhaust + others if its cranked out too much.( axle angles too)

In the end = fresh bushings all way around the top of the motor barely moves.  you just need a Tiny Bit of clearance to keep what you have.
 
Can you route the offending  Oil Hose DOWN more  along with the other items.. 'shifting them  out of the way?


Offline MPlayle

Re: 67 MK-II Moke
« Reply #378 on: March 14, 2018, 09:40:31 AM »
It is already all new steady bushings and motor mounts.

I have a thinner filter-to-carb gasket.  The thick head for the filter stud was the concern.  I can look to see if I have or can find something smaller.

Rerouting the lines for the oil pressure and water temp gauges is not an option at this point.  I would have to undo too much to back them out of that passage hole and through the same hole as the main wiring harness (which does not have much spare space for extra lines).

The thinner pancake filters are scheduled to arrive Thursday.  I'll see what I can sort in the meantime.

Thanks.




Offline MPlayle

Re: 67 MK-II Moke
« Reply #379 on: March 14, 2018, 04:31:42 PM »
Thanks for the suggestion on changing out the center shaft arrangement of the K&N filter and going to a paper-thin gasket between the filter and carb.  A trip to the hardware store got a 10-32x2" pan-head machine screw and nuts and it worked nicely.  It is still tight, but I have a couple mm clearance now, so it is not touching the lines or grommet.

I will keep the thin pancake filters as "backup" arrangements if there proves to be a problem later.


Offline MPlayle

Re: 67 MK-II Moke
« Reply #380 on: March 14, 2018, 08:19:21 PM »
It is looking more and more like I will make my self-imposed deadline of having the Moke on the road by the end of March.

As posted earlier, your collective suggestions on the air filter arrangement will let me use the K&N cone filter.

Other progress today included installing the main pipe of the exhaust from the manifold to just behind the front seats.  I also hung the rear muffler to determine the length of connecting pipe needed.  I also got my DIY pressure bleeder working and filled/bled both hydraulic systems.  I will be letting them settle overnight and then bleeding them again.  I did have one slight leak in the whole system - I did not have the banjo bolt for the break light switch at the right front wheel as tight as it should be and it leaked.  Tightened it further and no more leak.

The battery has been on the charger and this evening switched to fully charged.  In the next day or two, I will hook it up and do a check of the the electrical systems and crank it for an oil pressure check as well.  Then it will be finish the fuel connections, align it and it should be done.


Offline BruceK

Re: 67 MK-II Moke
« Reply #381 on: March 14, 2018, 09:52:03 PM »
Great progress!  Question about your seats: so do you have the seat cushions ready to go too?    Or are you still sorting those things out?
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
2007 Triumph Bonneville

Offline MPlayle

Re: 67 MK-II Moke
« Reply #382 on: March 15, 2018, 12:27:12 AM »
I have the seat cushions ready - need a bit of cleaning from being stored on a garage shelf while doing the rest of the work.

I'm using the same seat cushions that came with it.  They were newly made shortly before I got the Moke and are black with white piping.


Offline MPlayle

Re: 67 MK-II Moke
« Reply #383 on: March 17, 2018, 06:38:40 PM »
Very minor, but important progress: primed the oil pump last night and again late this afternoon.  I now have oil pressure!  It reaches 62psi cold from just cranking on the starter.

I tried wrestling with putting the windshield and new seals into the frame - no success.  At least nothing got broken except my ambition.

Yesterday, I got the exhaust finished and almost all of the electrical systems checked.  I had to troubleshoot a couple of items: a) one rear tail light socket operates backward based on the wire colors - swapped them at the bullet connectors for that light connecting to the harness; b) one front turn/park light needed some work - needed a better ground by removing some of the paint under one of the mounting screws, needed the pig-tail wiring replaced as it had failed splices hidden in it.

I still need to test the fuel pump and make sure the hydraulic brake light switch is working.  The brake lights themselves work - tested by touching the lines that go to the switch together.  Headlights and turn signals also work fine.  Even the wiper motor works as before - single speed with park.


Offline jedduh01

Re: 67 MK-II Moke
« Reply #384 on: March 19, 2018, 08:10:57 AM »
Keep it up!

 I totally know the pain of the windshield gaskets.
 Few tips

 Use lube == Soapy water = good =   KY Jelly = is better!

I used a BIG open area on the floor... Ratcheting straps are key to helping PULL everhting in and together as needeed.  Use a few all around the frame.. Help settle the seals in place . Work slowly =  Compress it = walk away =   Compress some more  walk away... Eventually it will compress more and more and you will be able to use line up pins to get the bottom bolts in the bottom rail.

I cracked mine on disassembly.  Luckily  Moke windshields are FLAT and glass cutters, custom glass makers in the US Can remake a glass for about 200$ pretty easily.

Make sure the rivets  / screws dont protrude into the frame too far too on the inside= Keeping the seal from compressing properly.



Offline MPlayle

Re: 67 MK-II Moke
« Reply #385 on: March 19, 2018, 08:52:27 AM »
Getting the seals into the frame has not been an issue.  Only the glass into the seals.

The top fasteners are still the originals.  I did not remove them from the frame when refinishing it, so I don't think their rivets should be an issue either.

I got some lashing straps to use to doing the compressing per an article I found on an Aussie Moke forum.

Going to be trying again with a helper today.


Offline MPlayle

Re: 67 MK-II Moke
« Reply #386 on: March 19, 2018, 02:16:42 PM »
Disappointment today.

We got to about 1/2" from having the windshield fully seated when it popped a crack.

Time to find a local glass shop to cut a replacement.

We did get the brakes and clutch bled again.  No air from the clutch.  Some from the brakes.  Brake pedal feels okay - first push has more travel before feeling firm, second push of a slight "pump" motion firms right up.  I may need to do one more bleeding session on the brakes.

Just need to make sure I have my set of instructions for dialing in the carb handy and tackle that and the timing.  Then it should be ready to try firing up.

Once that is done, I'll drop it from the stands and set to doing the alignment.


Offline jedduh01

Re: 67 MK-II Moke
« Reply #387 on: March 19, 2018, 02:54:26 PM »
BUMMER.

https://www.vintageglass.com/

Who i sourced a glass from. I THINK i still even have my template.... a piece of wrapping paper = and the old glass traced on the paper  send to them for the size + cut.

(per their site (free shipping on flat glass)  Arrived in about 2 weeks= Proper laminated windscreen glass.



 

Offline MPlayle

Re: 67 MK-II Moke
« Reply #388 on: March 19, 2018, 04:08:55 PM »
Thanks for the link.  I found a local place that will cut one and install into the frame for me.  It will be ready either tomorrow afternoon or early Wednesday.


Offline MPlayle

Re: 67 MK-II Moke
« Reply #389 on: March 21, 2018, 07:34:00 PM »
Planning on trying to fire it up tomorrow and do the timing and carb tuning.





« Last Edit: March 21, 2018, 09:51:55 PM by MPlayle »

Offline MPlayle

Re: 67 MK-II Moke
« Reply #390 on: March 22, 2018, 02:52:06 PM »
All back together and down off the dolly/stands ready for doing the alignment!

It pretty much fired right up with a bit of choke.  Got the timing set for 8* BTDC at 1000 rpm per the manual for a later 998 with HS4 carb.  Good oil pressure and smooth idle.

Went to do the carb adjusting and I think I may need different needle.  I currently have an AAT in the carb.  I filled the dashpot with 3-In-1 oil.

When trying to follow the directions on the sucarb.co.uk site for tuning it, I have to richen it way up before it begins to plateau at about 2100 rpm at which point there is not enough adjustment in the mixture screw to bring the idle back down.  I have to lean it back out to just a little before it stalls for the mixture screw to have any effect.

The tuning data in the manual for the later 998 indicates an ABX needle should be used which by the charts appears to be a slightly richer needle.

I'll look at the spare HS4 that came with the engine to see what needle it has.  Any suggestions?  Tuning the carb and the alignment are all that remains.










Offline 94touring

Re: 67 MK-II Moke
« Reply #391 on: March 22, 2018, 03:07:05 PM »
Fantastic!  4.gif.   I have the same green gas can in my shop.  Keep it full of fuel, if it's partial and temps change it deforms pretty badly.  Did you ever get the pancake filter to try?

Offline MPlayle

Re: 67 MK-II Moke
« Reply #392 on: March 22, 2018, 03:24:21 PM »
I got the pancake filters.  Mounting one to the carb, then attempting to install the carb would not work - hit the firewall.  The taper of the K&N gave the clearance to slip the car onto the studs.

I could have tried with the pancake filter disassembled and only the backplate on the carb, but re-assembling the pancake filter in place would have been a pain-in-th-***.
The steel mesh surrounding the foam filter has sharp edges and catches on everything.

The spare carb had an ADE needle installed and had an AAP and another AAT along with it.

I may consult the tech guys at 7Ent to see what they say.

Offline 94touring

Re: 67 MK-II Moke
« Reply #393 on: March 22, 2018, 03:30:58 PM »
Minidave just bought a book on needles, maybe he can advice what to try.

Offline MiniDave

Re: 67 MK-II Moke
« Reply #394 on: March 22, 2018, 03:56:37 PM »
I do have that book, but I haven't really looked at it - all it seems to be is a list of every needle ever used on an SU! But first, you do know that this carb has an idle speed screw as well as the mixture screw, right?

I'm a little confused by your description, once you get the mixture right, you adjust the idle speed with the idle speed screw - it's not a bleed screw, rather it controls how far the throttle plate is open.

Turn the mixture screw on the left side of the carb (as you face it) in to richen, out to lean, the opposite of most carbs. The idle speed screw is located on the right side (as you face the engine) near the baseplate.
« Last Edit: March 22, 2018, 03:58:52 PM by MiniDave »
1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
1969 Jaguar XK-E FHC
2004 Audi Allroad 2.7 TT

Offline MPlayle

Re: 67 MK-II Moke
« Reply #395 on: March 22, 2018, 04:41:17 PM »
Dave,

The carb is a HS4.  External float to the left as you face the engine from in front of the car.

The jet is the red non-waxstat underneath the main body with the spring loaded hex nut to adjust.  There are two other adjusting screws: the idle/mixture screw (in a recess on the right front directly above the throttle cable attachment) and the high-speed idle screw (pushed on by the choke cam to open the throttle plate).

I am referring to adjusting the main jet and the idle/mixture screw. 

I am not focusing on the high-speed idle screw yet.  (I actually have it spaced pretty close for where the SU Carb site says it should get actuated by the choke cam.)

I started with the main jet set 2 full turns below the bridge and the mixture screw 1.5 turns in from just touching the throttle as per the directions.

Got the car started with that and adjusted the mixture/idle screw to get the 1000rpm.  Then set the timing for 8* BTDC.  Then went back to adjust the carb - main jet and mixture as per the directions.

The directions in my orange service manual differ a bunch from the directions on the sucarb.co.uk website.  I've used the website directions before for a HIF carb just fine.



Offline MiniDave

Re: 67 MK-II Moke
« Reply #396 on: March 22, 2018, 04:52:46 PM »
I thought it was an HIF38.......sounds like you know what you're doing.
1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
1969 Jaguar XK-E FHC
2004 Audi Allroad 2.7 TT

Offline MPlayle

Re: 67 MK-II Moke
« Reply #397 on: March 22, 2018, 09:42:16 PM »
Spoke with Jack at 7Ent.  He said they only used the "lift pin" method, which matches what is in my orange service manual.  The "lift pin" method sets the idle base, and from there they do test drives to see how the car responds.

Going to reset to base and redo the carb tune tomorrow trying the "lift pin" method.  Have to wait on the driving until after getting the alignment done.

Played around with comparing the needle profiles of the needles 7Ent has available to compare The AAT in the carb to others available.  I had to do it manually by entering the needle profiles into Excel by hand as the one comparison site is still not working again.  At least the other site is still able to display the profile data.  I'll see how it behaves and consider a different needle only if necessary.  The AAT needle is a leaner but similar profile to the AAU included in the typical "stage one" kit.  There is the AAK profile that runs between the AAT and AAU that might be the option to try if a richer needle proves necessary.  The K&N filter is the item creating the possible need for a slightly richer profile.


Offline MPlayle

Re: 67 MK-II Moke
« Reply #398 on: March 23, 2018, 04:29:14 PM »
Did not get to the carb today.  Instead, I added 1/2 spacers to the jerry can mount for a bit more body clearance and got 3 of 4 wheels aligned.


Offline 94touring

Re: 67 MK-II Moke
« Reply #399 on: March 23, 2018, 04:50:36 PM »
What are your thoughts on doing the alignment yourself so far?