67 MK-II Moke

Started by MPlayle, October 02, 2016, 01:26:28 PM

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jedduh01

That is awesome = looks great!

Would you care to share the full cost? we all wonder what a "shell" costs to get to the USA - Even like ones  From Heritage or from M -Parts , now you've actually done it!

Any surprises.. any FYI for the full process to share?

Of course if you don't want to fully reveal  = understood.

MPlayle

#301
I don't mind sharing the information.  I will have to compile it, so will post it a bit later.

Edit:

Here are the cost breakdowns I incurred:
New shell = £5995 (UKP)
Shipping = £1204.43 (UKP)
US Customs broker fees & Duties = $325.83 (USD)
Final truck delivery fee (liftgate) = $144.55 (USD)

Surprises across the full process (supplier related):
a) Several construction delays
b) Communication of status and delays could have been better
c) Several mounting holes not pre-drilled as would have been expected - front panel to subframe, front subframe tail mounts to body, tail light mounting screw holes, one of the wiper wheelbox mounting holes in the wrong location (this may be due to the different style wiper systems that were used), wiper motor mounting holes (again - system specific, so easily forgiven).
d) Primer quality in some areas lacking - fails Dan's "tape test".
e) Overspray on one side from the "stone chip" coating applied to the bottom of the shell


Overall opinion so far:
Still VERY pleased with the resulting shell.  I definitely think it will be worth having chosen this route.


The next couple of things deal with the shipping process once out of the hands of M-Parts (the supplier) and deal with the delivery experience:

Attention to delivery details and requirements needed to be better to ensure accurate quote and arrangements. 
a) The shipment was always to be to a residence, they "missed" that at initial processing on the US end and left it off the delivery instructions at one point and only "discovering" the fact when I was directly contacting them to be sure it was cleared.
b) The shipment is also considered "oversized" (basically 10'x5'x3') for normal delivery services and typical residential delivery trucks liftgates are not big enough.  The shipping contacts all along the way overlooked that, so selected a "standard liftgate" option for the delivery method.  Only when they saw the crate in front of them did they "suddenly" realize they had a problem.
c) They tried to make their misquote of final delivery method into my problem.  They wanted to either have me come get it with a trailer or find an alternate location with a loading dock.  (Never offered any refund of delivery fees as part of those arrangements.)  I had to stand firm on requiring them to deliver it to me as that was what I paid for and it was not my fault they didn't read what was in front of them on the shipment details before assigning a delivery method.
d) They still ended up trying to deliver it via a standard liftgate truck.  We had to use my engine hoist and a strap to hold up the one end as they got the other onto the liftgate and lower both in a coordinated manner to get it off the truck without incident.


94touring

Not a bad price for brand new.

At a minimum take a high powered pressure washer to the primer and blast off the loose stuff.  I'd be tempted to sand down the front end areas that get hit with direct wind force when driving too.

Willie_B

The basic shell is about 600 GBP more now than when you ordered. Overall still looks like not a bad deal when factoring in not doing all the work to fix the old shell.

I may be ordering one soon myself then.

MPlayle

Willie_B,

I think the website price is the same as when I requested a quote.  When they gave me the quote and invoice, it was the lower price.  I didn't argue.

A bit of progress today in preparing the new shell with necessary "mods".  I discovered yesterday that the tail light holes did not have the tiny holes for the mounting screws.  Those got done today along with the holes for the jerry-can mount, the truck box mounting holes and associated relocating holes for part of the rear seats. 





Also, I did the holes for the wiper motor mounting, fuse box, and voltage regulator.  I relocated the one wheelbox hole, test fit the front subframe and completed its mounting holes, finished the front bumper mounting points and put in rivet-nuts for the side covers.  I decided to go with rivet nuts instead of dzus fasteners.





And lastly, I did commit sacrilege: I cut out the slats of the front grill for the desired access.  The next picture is the result, the last is the fitting of the removable grill.





MiniDave

I would have done the grill too.....
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

94touring


MPlayle

No pictures of today's progress. 

I had a friend helping me.  We finished the test fitting of the fuel tank, lights and tank protector panel.  Made a few adjustments to some holes and the notches on the protector panel for getting things to fit nicely.

After that we sanded the complete topside of the body to remove blemishes and the "pimples" of the overspray of the stone-chip undercoating.  Got all of the blemmishes out and all the loose primer removed.  We then hosed it down and gave it a good soap and water wash to remove the dust and any remaining grease or oil residue.  Rinsed it thoroughly until there were no soap bubbles and then rinsed it again for extra measure.  We then towel dried the complete topside and put it away to finish drying.  It will get a complete coat of new primer tomorrow.

The new rear subframe (complete) is supposed to arrive at the Austin airport Tuesday.

94touring

Good to hear you worked on that primer.  Take very long to do? Worried about flash rust?

MPlayle

Today's efforts took about 3 hours with the two of us working on it at the same time.

I'm not too worried about flash rust.  I will check it a bit later this afternoon to be sure.  I wanted it to be thoroughly dry before putting the new primer on it.

Edit:  All of the sanding was by hand with the 3M sanding sponges.


94touring

Also, what type of primer are you intending to apply?  Just want to make sure you get it right!

MPlayle

I'm applying Rustoleum Automotive primer.


94touring

Ideally you'd spray a 2k epoxy on bare metal.  It seals out moisture and adheres like no ones bussiness. 

MPlayle

Got it fully sprayed in fresh primer and then rubbed down with 000 steel wool today.  Now to let it sit a couple days before arranging to take it to the paint shop.

MPlayle

#314
The new rear subframe arrived in Austin yesterday.  Drove up with a friend in his pickup and got it today.  It is all shiny and pretty!

Edit: Added the picture below.  I will also be adding adjustable rear camber/toe brackets.  It came with Hi-Los (with the grease fitting)!  I also have to swap over to the old handbrake cables as the Mokes use specific ones rather than the standard Mini ones.




BruceK

Wow.  That's the complete deal.  Looks very nice all shiny and new. 
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

94touring


MPlayle

The body is scheduled to go to the paint shop tomorrow morning.

Today, I got it ready and then worked on the rear subframe: added the adjustable camber/toe brackets, replaced the simple 'T" connector with the limiting valve from the old subframe, and swapped over the handbrake cables. 

Hopefully I did not create a leak in the hard brake lines at the connections to the limiting valve.

Next on the rear subframe will be test fitting the desired new muffler box to get the mounting points set.








MPlayle

Got the "dry fit" of the desired muffler done.  Working on putting the engine into the front subframe and building that up to be ready to install from bottom up.  I've got to order the stuff for redoing the brake lines on the subframe.




MiniDave

I like the 'dual' exhaust!
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

94touring

Yeah the exhaust is cool.

MiniDave

#321
It always bugs me when I see a guy using a claw hammer to work on a car - claw hammers are for nails, which are a lot softer than punches and drifts - go down to Harbor Freight and buy some ball peen hammers - made to hit hard metal objects (as well as thumbs and other body parts  ;D )

(Right, Dan?)
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

94touring

Haha.  I used a claw hammer for years.  Occasionally it's still handy depending on what I'm doing.  I will say though it's nice having a various selection of ball peen hammers.  I have a claw hammer hanging by my paint mixing station for closing can lids.   

MPlayle

Engine mounted to the subframe today.  Also worked at figuring out brake line stuff to order.  I'm going with braided lines instead of the copper hard lines, including the ones at the limiting valve on the rear subframe.




gr8kornholio

Looking good.  I can now see the difference in the subframe tower mounts and why the dry one needs the spacers.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.