67 MK-II Moke

[BruceK]

I ordered parts late Tuesday night from MiniSpares (so Wednesday morning in the UK) and DHL informed me this morning that they would be delivered on Monday (to Dan).   Pretty darn quick 

[MPlayle]

I sent Mini Spare (Ivan) an email requesting the tracking number.  Most things I order via the webs (not just Mini parts) automatically send the tracking number.  UK shops seem to be "hit or miss" about what service they use and whether to bother with tracking.

"Maybe" the folks at Mini Spares will have some office hours tomorrow and see the email before Monday.

Seems to be more of how life has been the past year and a half: try to make a couple simple plans and life takes a sudden left turn making me throw out the plans.

[MiniDave]

Yeah, I never get a reply to an email  I send them on Friday till Monday or Tuesday, by then I usually already have the parts!

[MPlayle]

I'll check my PO box again tomorrow and hope the parts have arrived.

I just wish they would automatically provide the tracking numbers on such shipments, rather than the customer having to request it.

On my last Somerford order, I specifically asked for "least expensive shipping with tracking" and they sent it regular Royal Mail without any tracking.  That was the flywheel locking tool - it took two full weeks to arrive.

[MiniDave]

I'm surprised DHL will deliver to a PO Box, I know Fed Ex and UPS won't.

[MPlayle]

It is a "private" PO box - not a USPS one.  It is at a "Pak-Mail" outfit - similar to the PO boxes available at some UPS Stores.

It gives me a physical address where someone will sign for most items and hold them for me.  The address is a normal street address, plus suite # and box #.

[MiniDave]

Ah..........so, so, so

[MPlayle]

Finally back to a little progress on the replacement engine.

I got the parts in for matching the pre-A+ transmission to the A+ flywheel housing (all being mated to a pre-A+ block).  I got the conversion bearing installed into the flywheel housing, the end-float for the new idler gear figured out and the nearest thrust washer set put on the gear shaft ready for installation.  It also has a new input shaft bearing and race and new rear seal.  I also got the block and transmission mated and bolted with new front seal, o-ring and surface gaskets.  Next will be putting the flywheel housing back on.

A few pictures of it finally coming back together.

[MiniDave]

So that's what a pudding stirrer transmission looks like!   ;D

You're making good progress, are you going to mount it in the current Moke to run for a while?

[MPlayle]

I had not planned on putting it in the current Moke body.  I had been hoping the new body would have been here by now, but it got delayed.

Having driven the Moke in its current body and comparing against all other Minis I've had (including an Aussie Moke), this one feels squeamish on the road.  Having been underneath it a bit, I can see why.  The left rear heel board near the subframe mount (behind the fuel tank) is only partly there.  There is a "tab" of it where the actual subframe mount is, but a significant portion running towards the center tunnel is missing - rotted away.  The tab still present does not look very solid either.

When moving to the current apartment, a friend was following me over and said it looked like it was "crabbing" down the road.  It felt that way to me as well.

All of that said, I decided to keep the driving to a minimum until I can build it back up in the new body.

[MPlayle]

I hate "two steps forward, one step backward" stuff!

When I ordered the new idler gear (pre-A+), I forgot about the primary gear being A+.   :-[

The tooth profile is slightly different and they don't mesh well - would not let the new idler slide in place after getting the block and transmission mated.  Iwent back and checked the input shaft gear and it is the same profile as the new idler gear, so it is pre-A+.  Had to make another Mini Spares order of a new pre-A+ primary gear and a series of shims.

Now to see how long it takes for this order to get processed and sent.

[pbraun]

Nice progress being made! 

A new shell should be fun!  After final paint, be sure to protect that newly painted surface. I didn't and had to fix afterwards - not as good.  22.gif 22.gif

[MPlayle]

Protect the newly painted surfaces as in?

[MiniDave]

I think one of the best things you can do to protect a newly painted car is to leave it alone and let the paint cure out for a while, a week....a month is even better. Dan will know the answer to that tho.....

The absolute best way is to build the entire car in primer, drill all the holes you need etc, then blow it all back apart again for the top coat.

Other than that, lots of soft towels and such wherever you're working.

[94touring]

Most paint suppliers recommend two weeks before waxing.  It's also easier to color sand and buff within the first couple days while it's still soft.

[MPlayle]

I'll let you guys coach me on some of this.

My plan for the new shell had been make all of the modifications to mounting points (such as for moving the rear seats forward extra, adding the truck box, adding the jerry-can mount, etc.) while it was still in primer.  Once all of those had been made, have the shell painted and let the painter have it for whatever amount of time was necessary for any color sanding and finish work.

I had been planning on removing the least amount of things from the old shell I could get away with for going with the new shell to the painter - such as the seats, side covers, gauge housing, windshield frame, anything else I want body colored.

Once the new shell and matching bits were back, then I would begin the serious disassembly of the old shell and refurbish things such as the suspension, subframes, brakes, wiring (new harness going in) as those items are prepared for installing into the new shell.

I have not yet determined whether to try any local paint shops or see about having Dan do the painting.  I had not wanted to take the Moke as it is to any local paint shops for estimates as I want to be sure the new shell is on its way before getting quotes.

Color-wise, I am planning on staying with a bright white as the main color.  Only a few items will be a contrasting black - steering column shroud & support, bumpers, seat pads.

[MiniDave]

  It's also easier to color sand and buff within the first couple days while it's still soft.

That doesn't load your paper too much?

[jeff10049]

The water keeps the paper from loading, I like to get on it the next morning or later the same day when I can. saves tons  of time and sandpaper.

[MPlayle]

I'll let you guys coach me on some of this.

My plan for the new shell had been make all of the modifications to mounting points (such as for moving the rear seats forward extra, adding the truck box, adding the jerry-can mount, etc.) while it was still in primer.  Once all of those had been made, have the shell painted and let the painter have it for whatever amount of time was necessary for any color sanding and finish work.

I had been planning on removing the least amount of things from the old shell I could get away with for going with the new shell to the painter - such as the seats, side covers, gauge housing, windshield frame, anything else I want body colored.

Once the new shell and matching bits were back, then I would begin the serious disassembly of the old shell and refurbish things such as the suspension, subframes, brakes, wiring (new harness going in) as those items are prepared for installing into the new shell.

I have not yet determined whether to try any local paint shops or see about having Dan do the painting.  I had not wanted to take the Moke as it is to any local paint shops for estimates as I want to be sure the new shell is on its way before getting quotes.

Color-wise, I am planning on staying with a bright white as the main color.  Only a few items will be a contrasting black - steering column shroud & support, bumpers, seat pads.

No comments on the above plan?  Is the approach good, bad, or otherwise? 

[94touring]

Yeah basically I'd do the same thing. Do body mods, paint it, then swap parts from the old shell to it.

[MPlayle]

Dan,

Thanks.  Sometimes I need encouragement that I am headed in the right direction.

When it comes time for painting the new shell, I seem to recall you stated in another thread that you are pretty booked up for a while.  Even so, any rough estimate for painting it?  As noted in the plan above - most likely going to stay with a bright white.  (Hopefully, that is an easier and less expensive color?)

[94touring]

I'll send you a pm with the details. 

[MPlayle]

I got settled in enough from moving apartments this last weekend to actually test fit the new primary gear and check its end float.  It fit nicely - the teethe mesh properly all the way though the drop gears now.  The existing thrust washer for the primary gear was even the right size and I did not have to try fitting any of the variety I ordered with the new primary gear.

I now have spare thrust washers for both the idler gear and primary gear to store away for "potential future needs".

I have to get a couple replacement bolts for the flywheel housing and it can go back on with a fresh gasket.

[BruceK]

Sounds like great progress.  Nice when things come together

[MPlayle]

Not really great progress, but nice that I can get back to putting it back together.

I need to get onto the folks in the UK about the status of the new body.