67 MK-II Moke

[MPlayle]

Trying to get a status update and ETA on the body.  May have to try calling the place in the UK come Monday.

[MPlayle]

I forgot to post a follow-up from contacting M-Parts.

They had to wait on getting some of the panels for my build made and switched to other projects.  They anticipate being back on mine around the middle of April.  They are still anticipating a late April or early May completion with a mid-to-late May shipping.

I am supposed to get am email with some additional recommendations to consider as other bulky parts (such as subframes) can go into the crate with the body and save on shipping costs.

Edit:
I unpacked the replacement 998 engine t begin the cleanup and update on it.  Still having trouble getting my ambition level up enough to really tackle getting it ready.

[MiniDave]

Don't force it, just do one little thing each day and before long you're moving the project forward.

Mid May, just in time for Texas summer weather to appear, right?

It's already been pretty warm here, today it's in the low 80's when they said a max of 72....

[MPlayle]

Also just in time for me to downsize from the current 3-bedroom apartment to a 2-bedroom apartment.  At least I will still have a 2-car garage at the 2-bedroom apartment.

[MPlayle]

Began the cleanup on the 998 this week.  Gave it a good degreasing Monday.  Today it got soda blasted (which works pretty well on the alloy parts, so-so on the cast iron block), wire brushed (conical brush on the end of the drill) some, and another degreasing.  I need to do some more wire brush work to get it fully cleaned down for basic painting, swapping the transmission and swapping the head.  I will try to remember to get a couple pictures along the way.

Once I get the head and transmission swap done, I will post the old parts up here for someone that may want them.

[MPlayle]

Here are some pictures of where I did the start of the engine cleanup.  I did more wire brush work today, but did not get ending pictures yet.

[BruceK]

I like your distributor cover!    Are you going to pull the mechanical fuel pump and replace with an electric one?

[MPlayle]

I wanted something to keep stuff out while degreasing, washing and soda blasting the block, so a small piece of cardboard laminated in shipping tape seemed the perfect budget solution.

The Moke already has an electric fuel pump and I will be staying with that.  So, yes, the mechanical fuel pump is coming off and a blanking plate going on.

[MPlayle]

Here is where I got to yesterday with the cleanup.

I took the fuel pump off for more room to clean around that part of the back of the block and timing cover plate.  I will put the blanking plate on before doing more cleanup there (to keep dust & such out).

I cleaned all the old paint off the thermostat housing - ready for silver paint.  I will also pretty up the starter while at it.

[MiniDave]

Progress!  4.gif

[MPlayle]

Yes, progress.  But slow.  Spent most of this afternoon on the phone arranging new health insurance - my COBRA runs out either June or July.

[jedduh01]

Making moves!  I LOVE my 998 + magic wand HS4Carbed moke too! it will be spectacular!
FOR SURE = fill up your tub with every Rubber + unique Moke part from m Parts when that shell ships.


A few things i got = later upon re assembly that you cant find in the US.

Windshield Gaskets + trim
UK Moke emergency brake cables are a unique legenth.
Mirrors
Grab handles if needed
Welting strips (under the hood)
Body grommets if needed
Hood bonnet rubber pull latches
bumper bar end rubbers
Shift boot

Convert top + roof straps
Seat Pad /cushions (they are great re makes)

So many mechanical parts are mini shared= easy to source other ways.

Cant wait to watch progress.

Are you having Them paint the shell?

Exciting / Goodluck!

[MPlayle]

jedduh01,

Thanks for the list of "extras" to consider.  They are not painting the shell.  It will arrive in primer with the underside also given a "stone chip" coating.

Some of the bits you've listed are still in good shape on my Moke and I plan on trying to reuse them.

I'm going to get the paint done here so the body parts being re-used can be painted to match (seats, side covers, steering column support, gauge housing, bumpers, windshield surround, grab handles).

[MiniDave]

jedduh is right about the rubber parts tho, you'll want all new ones....especially those grommets and plugs.

[BruceK]

UK Moke emergency brake cables are a unique legenth.

I think that's backwards.  A UK Moke's brake cables should be identical to a Mk. I and Mk. II Mini as they had the same 80" wheelbase.   It was the later Oz Mokes that had the special lengthened rear trailing arms to accommodate the 13" wheels, so that's the ones with the longer brake cables. 

[jedduh01]

UK Moke emergency brake cables are a unique legenth.

I think that's backwards.  A UK Moke's brake cables should be identical to a Mk. I and Mk. II Mini as they had the same 80" wheelbase.   It was the later Oz Mokes that had the special lengthened rear trailing arms to accommodate the 13" wheels, so that's the ones with the longer brake cables.

My experience trying to order first saloon cables from Seven = Too short
Re ordered Estate cables - too short, This
       Lead to the reason Seven Ent now has "10'wheel' Moke cables available on their site. We all learned from that one.

http://www.7ent.com/products/handbrake-cable-moke-w-10-wheels-bhm9665.html

Had i not ruined one, i would have re used the original . oh well = cut, learn, rebuild

[BruceK]

UK Moke emergency brake cables are a unique legenth.

I think that's backwards.  A UK Moke's brake cables should be identical to a Mk. I and Mk. II Mini as they had the same 80" wheelbase.   It was the later Oz Mokes that had the special lengthened rear trailing arms to accommodate the 13" wheels, so that's the ones with the longer brake cables.

My experience trying to order first saloon cables from Seven = Too short
Re ordered Estate cables - too short, This
       Lead to the reason Seven Ent now has "10'wheel' Moke cables available on their site. We all learned from that one.

http://www.7ent.com/products/handbrake-cable-moke-w-10-wheels-bhm9665.html

Had i not ruined one, i would have re used the original . oh well = cut, learn, rebuild

I defer to your lesson learned. 

[MPlayle]

Got the block cleanup finished today and masked for painting the main block.  Also installed the fuel pump blanking plate.

After painting the block itself, I will re-mask and paint the oil transfer pipe and filter head in a high temperature silver.  I am going to also paint the thermostat housing in the same silver.

I will clean the clutch cover and flywheel housing again once I pull them off to change the transmission.  I may also paint them in the same silver.

[Willie_B]

What works good to cover odd shaped items and is easy to remove is aluminum foil.

[BruceK]

What works good to cover odd shaped items and is easy to remove is aluminum foil.

I love that idea.  Thanks for sharing.

[MPlayle]

I now have the block all painted and ready for taking things apart to put the fresh head on and swap the transmission.

Next cleanups will be the starter, clutch cover and flywheel housing while those are off for the swaps.

[gr8kornholio]

Excuse the new guy question, but why does this block have those two plates on it with the bolt in the middle and the one having a breather?  I don't believe mine has that, or is it I just cant see them due to the header.

[MPlayle]

Those are the "tappet chest covers".  The engine is an "pre-A+" 998cc engine.

Most of the small bore "pre-A+" engines and some of the pre-1970 Cooper-S 1275 engines had them.  Later engines did not get them and the non-Cooper-S 1275's did not have them.  I believe all of the "A+" engines were without them.

They give direct access to the lifters without having to take out the cam.  On the engines with the tappet chest covers, they put the breather on the one cover instead of the timing chain cover.  They are also one more place for potential oil leaks.

[MiniDave]

Have you decided what color you'll be painting the Moke?

BTW, some of those tappet covers did not have the breather at all, and some had a thing called a road tube, which is simply a tube that arches up then down the back of the block and is open on the end - driving down the road pulled the engine vapors right out of the block and into the air. We don't do it that way anymore for obvious reasons!

All of this - the road tube, tappet covers, remote shifter and 1100 tab make me wonder if this is actually a 1071 instead of a 1098? The engine in my '62 Cooper S was a 1071, and the serial number on this engine indicates it came from an MG1100 or Wolseley 1100 which would have been in the same era but MiniMania says it's a 1098 based on the attached engine serial number.

[MPlayle]

I get a chuckle out of that road tube - it is using the mechanical fuel pump blanking plate as a mounting point and dumps right on top of part of the Remote/Wand shift linkage.