Vikram's 1960

Started by 94touring, May 15, 2016, 11:55:37 AM

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94touring

Crank case breathers need not be hooked up.  I intend to put a crank case filter on mine to keep things cleaner.  Anything on your carbs/webers not being used should be capped.

MPlayle

There should be no open lines into the carb. 

If the carb has a port for a distributor vacuum advance line and the distributor does not have a vacuum advance (or running it disconnected), it should ideally be capped at the carb.  The same goes for breather lines. 

Your block should be allowed to "breathe" in some manner - timing cover breather, clutch cover breather, or valve cover breather.  These are either connected to the carb (sometimes via a charcoal canister) or vented to atmosphere via hose to under the car or one of the small "filters" attached to the breather.


Vikram

Ok, I understand.
There are currently no open lines into the carb. The inlet manifold does not have any ports for vacuum advance. Only the distributor has an outlet nipple for vacuum advance which is currently open. There is one large hole above the right velocity stack on the weber which is open, is this ok?
I will leave the breather open. So maybe a leak at the exhaust manifold gasket? I'm afraid of using a carb cleaner to test the leak due to the fire hazard, I've heard propane is safer?

94touring

Propane goes boom  >:(

Starter spray for engines or carb cleaner is what you want.

Put your finger over these open ports and see what happens.

Vikram

No luck.
I put my hand over the opening above the velocity stack and it died, I think it's a breather that needs to stay open.
Covered the vacuum opening on dizzy, no difference. Removed the throttle linkage to ensure the throttle wasn't sticking, no difference. Advanced and retarded the timing, it either would overly backfire through carbs or not start, when it did it was back to the same issue. Really torqued down head studs on inlet manifold to ensure no leak, no difference.
The thing just climbs and climbs till 4K every time, some times instantly sometimes it hovers around 1.5k before shooting up. I'm completely lost.
I've attached pictures of what's going on.

94touring

What about those huge gaps between the webber and the maniflold that aren't clamping the gasket between them?

Vikram

That's because of the misab plates. There's an o ring either side, so it looks like the gap but it's actually  good seal.

94touring

I'd be spraying fluid there.

gr8kornholio

Make sure you are following WEBER specific tuning instructions on the carb.  They have their own set of rules from what I understood when I put one on my R22 in my toyota pickup. 

Agree with the carb cleaner.  I sprayed it all around when I did the weber on my truck engine just to make sure cause at first it ran horribly.  But then I followed the exact tuning directions and now you can barely hear it running its so smooth. 
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

MPlayle

As suggested by gr8kornholio, follow the Weber tuning instructions carefully.  It looks as though it is also a manual choke carb, so make sure the choke is not holding open as that will make it over-rev like you are discribing.


Vikram

So it was a combination of a few small things that created the problem. Timing was too advanced and the linkage was holding the throttle open a little bit. The car now idled very roughly at around 1500 rpm, it backfires through the carb a lot. The spark plugs are very sooty and slightly wet.
I think I need to change the idle jet.

94touring

Back firing through the carb is retarded timing. Get a timing l8hht and reset it.

Vikram

I've got a light but what to I use as TDC? Don't see any reference marks...

MPlayle

If there are no "teeth" at the timing cover, then you will have to use the marks on the flywheel - visible through the little access cover by using a mirror.

The timing cover end usually has a small set of teeth at the front just above the crank damper and the crank damper will have a notch in the rim of the engine side of the belt slot.  The uppermost tooth point is 0* TDC, with each point being 4* advance.

The flywheel end has a single pointer on the case and a set of marked lines on the flywheel.  I believe 0* TDC is marked with a "1/4" and subsequent lines have numerical marks such as 5* and 10*.  I seem to recall there being individual lines for 0* through about 15* BTDC.


MiniDave

You can find TDC......take out the no 1 plug and use a pencil or similar. Put the car in 4th gear and roll it forward slowly till the pencil comes all the way up. Move it back til the pencil starts to move down and make a temporary mark on the pulley, move it forward till the pencil starts to move down again and make another temp mark....half was between these marks is pretty close to TDC.

If your flywheel cover has a removable cover at the top, you can open than and look for the marks on the flywheel too. the 1/4 is TDC.....

Mplayle and I on the same page!
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Vikram

Thanks for the replies. I do see teeth but I didn't know how to make use of them!
And Dave, thanks for the TDC method, that was going to be my last resort.
That being said, by timing is definitely too far retarded. I need to advance it but that results in the very high idle. After some reading, I believe I need to drop my idle jet as per my cylinder size which should be a 40, but I'm at a 50. I'm thinking of picking up a number of jets to troubleshoot.

jeff10049

The jet may need to be changed but you should be able to turn the mix screw in enough to have it run ok.
It really sounds like your throttle plates are open too far this will flood the engine and make the plugs wet.
Is the linkage on the carb in a bind?
Or you have an air leak somewhere.
The engine won't t go to 4k or even 2k rpm without air.


Vikram

#317
Hi guys,
The issue is still persisting, and I have no idea what's going on. I dropped an idle jet size, the timing is in the correct region and it's not backfiring but the idle is still at the redline.

I took a video looking down the barrel of the carbs to ensure that the throttle is not sticking open, and it's not. I used tape to seal the gap between the intake manifold and carb to temporarily see if that was where the airleak was, but that made no difference still idling at redline.

It has to be an airleak and it must be a massive one, but I don't know where it is. I am afraid to use carb cleaner to find the issue because that will drive the rpm even higher and its already at the redline. I have a bad rocker cover gasket, could that be it?

What on earth is going on....any advice would be appreciated. I have attached the video.

MiniDave

Vikram, I would take the entire intake manifold and carb assembly off the car and look it over carefully - you're missed something somewhere. I know this is frustrating as hell, but when you find it you'll be both relieved and surprised.....

To answer your question, no I can't imagine the valve cover gasket causing this issue.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Vikram

I have taken the carb off numerous times, but I will take it off once more and closely examine it. I'll go through it with the manual and hopefully something will come up...

MiniDave

Take the intake off with the carb.....
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Vikram

I have to take the intake off the carb as it is, due to the space restriction. I've got some new gaskets on the way along with studs and washers, just to be sure everything is tied down properly. Will install those and take it from there.

gr8kornholio

Is there a way for you to set everything back to zero? 

In that I mean how it came from the factory.  Like the carb settings and maybe even the timing or other ignition settings.  That was the information that came with the weber carb I put on my 22R in the toyota.

Maybe doing this could also alert you to something you are missing.  Just a thought.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

Vikram

Resetting it back to factory would just involve changing the jets back to what it came with. I followed Vizard's exact jetting guide, so I don't see how it could be so far off to do what its doing.
I have tried pulling the timing back, but it just backfires out of the carb and runs poorly. Webers are supposed to run on slightly advanced timing, and that is what it's at.
As for missing components, I really haven't touched anything except for the jets, chokes and floats. When I pull the carbs off to redo the seals and gaskets, I will check everything once again.

MPlayle

It almost sounds like the choke is stuck on full and keeping the butterfly open enough to act like WOT.