Vikram's 1960

[MiniDave]

I wouldn't put power to this car till you know what each one of those wires does.....either find a good wiring diagram or use an ohm meter and figure out what each of those is for or you could let the smoke out of some things.....

[Vikram]

I'm doing all the wiring off the wiring diagram for cooper cars 1961-4, and cross checking against Cooper cars 64 onwards.
This is tricky because it's an aftermarket alternator loom with a pee engage, when the diagrams are for dynamo and inertia starters

[Vikram]

Pee engage..... the best kind

[jeff10049]

I wouldn't put power to this car till you know what each one of those wires does.....either find a good wiring diagram or use an ohm meter and figure out what each of those is for or you could let the smoke out of some things.....

I agree but just in case it is sold on ebay.

[MiniDave]

That bottle looks like it's been used, it's almost empty!   ;D

[MiniDave]

I'm doing all the wiring off the wiring diagram for cooper cars 1961-4, and cross checking against Cooper cars 64 onwards.
This is tricky because it's an aftermarket alternator loom with a pee engage, when the diagrams are for dynamo and inertia starters

I don't know what a Pee engage is ;D  but the function of the wires is the same, you just have to understand what they are supposed to do and wire accordingly....

For example, the white wire with the red stripe is the trigger wire for the starter, the big brown wire should be feeding the fuse panel, if it is then locating it on the starter terminal is fine, as long as the main wire from the Alternator also feeds the same circuit....or is directly located to the main cable for the battery.

The difference between a pre engaged and the other is pretty simple, on the inertia starter only the big main battery terminal is on the starter, all the other wires are on the remote relay. On the pre engaged it's the opposite, but the wires do the same thing. The red white wire is therefore on the small terminal of the starter, and the main battery cable is on the main lug. The big #10 brown wire is on the large spade terminal which is connected to the main battery cable lug, and supplies the fuse panel and the rest of the car. I don't know what the small brown wire does, so I'd check that before you power up, likewise the red wire.

[Vikram]

Update from past few days. Made progress with the wiring, sorted out the starter wiring and got the ignition light. Cranked the engine once, wouldn't crank again. Discovered a botched starter solenoid, so the new one is on its way.
Currently have pilot lamps, wipers and rear tail lamps working. However indicators and main lights are not.
Tried a lot if things, multimeter says there's no voltage coming to either the blue and white or the blue and red lamp wires. I read on tmf that the starter solenoid needs to be hooked up for a complete circuit, and its currently off the car along with the starter motor. However I do have a solenoid hooked up, as per the older starter style.....
Any ideas?
As far as time goes, I have two weeks to:
Finish the wiring
Get the roll cage and weld it in
Fit shifter
Weld in seat captive nuts and install seats
Properly install fuel tank
Throw carbs on, sort out timing, run engine
Prep and paint doors bonnet and boot lid
Tighten everything, get it aligned
Bleed brakes
Glass in

Probably missing some things.....will be an interesting two weeks. I'm aiming to have all the prep work done, shifter in and cage + seat subframes in by the start of next week

[jeff10049]

Is it a stock harness? I have a 60 I could look and see how stuff is hooked up I put in a new harness. your car if a 1960 would not have had a solenoid but a stater button (I think) when new And one 6 or 8 gauge size wire to the always hot side of button, if using a solenoid just make sure that wire is on the always hot side to power up everything. The harness gets a little weird with all the bullet connectors around the speedo area and switch plate took me a bit to sort it all out as I had nothing to go by.

The two fuse block needs to be right as well it's very easy to get a wire on the wrong spade. Also the voltage regulator matters. I also found a headlight ground that was incorrect in my new harness it  went nowhere and I had to make my own.

I'd be happy to take pictures if you need.

Jeff

[Vikram]

Yes, stock harness. Pictures would be very useful!
Specifically the fuse box,starter button and voltage regulator.
I have the regulator, but it's an alternator harness, so I'm not sure if it's needed. I have a couple of green wires that are in the region of the regulator and are not connected to anything.
Thanks

[tmsmini]

If the harness is a "conversion" harness, then there is no place for the voltage regulator.
I have some pictures from a 64 wagon with floor start, but it sounds like you have worked around that with a starter solenoid.

Terry
I just looked and I am not sure my photos would be of much help, many of the colors on the braided coverings are washed out and there were a few additions over the years with extra wires.
https://goo.gl/photos/f4FDeAKaMUuSA5AT9
https://goo.gl/photos/kSFPxJhi5ofT8Qa6A

[jeff10049]

I will get you some pictures tomorrow. since my harness is new the colors should be good I'll get the best detail I can.

[Vikram]

Thanks Jeff, those would come in handy.
My bonnet is pretty banged up, so I was faced with the choice of either trying to salvage it or replacing it. I chose to try to save it with a **** ton of filler. It doesn't seem to be working, I've been filling and sanding for the past two days, and it's got to the point where the filler is so thick that its started cracking as I sand , leaving craters.
It's just awful. I know the car is far from a perfect restore, but there has been a lot of care that's gone in to it, and it seems a shame to throw on this botch bondo bonnet. 75% of the front face is solid filler in an attempt to smoothen it out.
I'll try to give it one last go tomorrow, or it's going to have to be a new one.
Additionally, minispares didn't dispatch my order, it got delayed, so it's going to be sent on Monday. Things aren't looking optimistic at the moment.
My solenoid should be here on Tuesday, so the wiring should be finished off. Maybe glass in?
In other news, I have the shifter, roll cage and harness bar in. I used the remote to rod change conversion bracket from 7, didn't come with instructions as promised, but it was pretty self explanatory. A word of advice, if anyone does do this, it's a lot easier with the exhaust off. If not, it's a real head ache, especially that damn bolt linking shifter to the block. I had to pull the headers off, box bracket off, wrestling, reinstall all.

[94touring]

Remember when I said replace the bonnet or you'd be sanding for days...

[jeff10049]

your filler should not be cracking or coming off are you giving the metal good tooth with 36 or 24 grit first?

Here are some wiring pics the pic name is the area if you can't tell.

[jeff10049]

more

[jeff10049]

last pic the brown wire is main power going to floor switch others are headlight dip.

[Vikram]

Jeff these are awesome. Thanks, I'll let you know how it goes

[Vikram]

That helped a lot! I now have indicators working, I didn't have that silver bullet looking thing connected.
Still no high beams, I'm going to wait for the solenoid to arrive before I mess around any more

[Vikram]

Jeff, how does your horn button connect up? I have the physical horn hooked up like yours, and I have a single purple and black wire unconnected on the other end. How does that connect to the button on the steering column?
My indicator stalk doesn't have any wires for a horn

[jeff10049]

On mine the horn button just provides ground for the horn through the column.
The horn ground side connects to a brown wire with black trace that goes to a wiper/brush contact that rides on a copper ring on the column the copper ring has a wire the goes to a contact the horn button hits to provide ground. Pulled the shroud for some pics.

If you need any detail in other areas let me know. Your headlights should be really close to working you have power and low beam so your down to one wire or a dip switch issue.

[jeff10049]

the wire on mine  might be purpleish and black i can't really tell.

[MiniDave]

the horn wire + side is usually purple

[Vikram]

Thanks for those.
Dan and I did some fiddling,  he found that pin 6 should have been connected to the u/w wire not left open as per wiring diagram.
All working now  4.gif

[Vikram]

As for the horn. I too have a brown ground wire connected to the stalk, that grounds out on the steering column. That wire is connected to a brown and black wire on the harness.
I have an open purple and blue wire from the harness that's not connected to anything. I assume that's the horn trigger? Can't find what to hook that to....

[jeff10049]

out of the two wires..one side of horn gets power wherever the other end of that wire goes it needs to be hooked to power, other side of horn gets grounded through stalk wiring when button is pushed. Thats it two wires one power and one momentary ground through the button.

So if you have the stalk wire hooked up to the horn then you need to power the other one any way that you can mine is powered all the time I think.

I can try and trace down where my horn is powered from if you need. But really any power source will work its the ground side that triggers it through the stalk.