Vikram's 1960

[Vikram]

Put on the pot joints, motor mounts and dropped the 1275 in today.
Even with my skinny fingers, bolting it up was tricky.
Then put in the "new" drive shafts and cv joints.
The gaiters for the outer cv joints are a bit loose, could I use zip ties instead? The fit of the cv joint on the hay however, is excellent.
Wheels turn freely and turn the diff, so I guess I did something right!
Good day

[94touring]

Alright great job! 

[MiniDave]

Zip ties are fine, that's what most people use.....be sure the gaiter is located correctly, not too far over the end of the CV joint.

I'm a little surprised to see you didn't give that motor a fresh coat o paint while you had it out, but I guess that can be next summer's project.......

Good job on getting the engine in, still a ways to go but that's definite progress!    77.gif

[Vikram]

I'll give the motor a better clean tomorrow. Painting it is just another thing to do that might make the difference in me leaving with or without the car. I've also heard that unless painted well, the heat from from the block ruins the paint.
I'll paint it when I install the twin turbos  9.gif

[MiniDave]

I figured that, sometimes you need to know when to say when!

These motors don't get hot enough to blister paint, as long as it's applied correctly it will stick.

[Vikram]

So I'm trying to hang the exhaust, and I find an old cotton reel mount that's in the subframe. The nut is mangled and the other end is sheared off. I guess that's why the car had a centre exit.  Any ideas on how to get it off?
I've tried welding a bolt on, except it won't hold. I can't use vice grips either because there's no room for rotation

[Vikram]

Nope something else is going on here.
I don't have the holes are drilled for the side exit mount.
Somehow I need to figure out how I do that with the subframe on the car

[94touring]

If that's the rear where the exhaust hanger mounts, just drill new holes and put a bolt with nut and lock washer on.

[MiniDave]

So I'm trying to hang the exhaust, and I find an old cotton reel mount that's in the subframe. The nut is mangled and the other end is sheared off. I guess that's why the car had a centre exit.  Any ideas on how to get it off?
I've tried welding a bolt on, except it won't hold. I can't use vice grips either because there's no room for rotation

Cotton reel mount???

[jeff10049]

Nice. I like the Newcastle beer sticker on the coil.

jeff

[jeff10049]

So I'm trying to hang the exhaust, and I find an old cotton reel mount that's in the subframe. The nut is mangled and the other end is sheared off. I guess that's why the car had a centre exit.  Any ideas on how to get it off?
I've tried welding a bolt on, except it won't hold. I can't use vice grips either because there's no room for rotation

Cotton reel mount???

Bobbin

[MiniDave]

Ahhhh so.......

[Vikram]

Sorted. Used the air chisel to bust out the rotten bolt and nut.  Drilled the holes from the rear, basically blind with a guesstimate. Came out perfectly!

[Vikram]

Leave it at that for the day, will finish it tomorrow.

[Vikram]

Result.
Feels very secure, and I'm happy with the clearance of the manifold and the pot joints. I'm extremely impressed with the lcb's fitment. I was doing some reading last night in preparation, and one guide said you had to remove the engine steady and rocker cover to the get the manifold in.
No such thing, it dropped right in. I did have to play around with the hangers to get good clearance up front.
The pictures are a bit deceptive, there's a lot more clearance when you see it in person, the gearbox mount casts a shadow. An easy finger's width, and that with the gearbox mount, means that unless there's a catastrophic failure, it should be good.
For those interested in the details, it is:
Millenium LCB exhaust manifold and y pipe linked to an RC40 mid pipe and twin box. 1.75" diameter.

[MiniDave]

Alrighty then, another box ticked off the list!   77.gif

[Vikram]

Yup.
Does this look correct? The shifter is just sitting there, not fastened or anything.
I'll obviously cover up the hole once mounted. I'm a little unsure of whether I can use that rod change adapter bracket from 7, because the mid pipe might get in the way. Might have to do something custom

[94touring]

Put the shifter in and see if it hits anything.  The boot is loose on my blue mini, you can pull it up and see where the hole is relative to the shifter.

[Willie_B]

Might want to put the speedo cable on before you loose and more room in that area.

[MPlayle]

You will still need the adapter bracket to mount the shifter housing to the tunnel.  The angled bobbin attaches to the tunnel opposite the exhaust pipe.  The vertical bobbin mounts in the gap between the shifter tail and the exhaust.

[John Gervais]

I used a brush on some of my interior paint as well.

I think you're doing a great job, I'm sure you'll be glad when it's finished and you're showing it off - "Yeah, that's right, I built it...  It's my hobby."   77.gif

[Vikram]

Yup, hopefully that day is coming soon.
I'm currently putting the new harness in, a lot harder than I thought. And it's only a mini harness, can't imagine how they wire up other cars.
The wires coming off both my headlamps aren't colour coded. All three are black, is there anyway of distinguishing which wire is which?

[MiniDave]

Yes, one is the high beams, one is the low beams and one is ground. Hook a test light to a good ground, turn on the lights and touch the probe to one of the wires, if it lights it's low beams, if it doesn't its the ground, do that to the next two wires till you identify the low and ground, the other wire is the high beams, then mark them so you'll remember which is which...

[jeff10049]

I think that he is asking about the pigtail on the headlight itself? If so do what Dave said then use this diagram to hook to the light plug.

[Vikram]

I've got the pigtail wired,it's just the wiring to the harness that's the issue.
I've got a decent number of things hooked up, horn, tank sender, new fuel pump and filters, fuse box. I've wired the starter, but I need confirmation that I've done it correctly.
My old 1098 had an inertia starter, the 1275 has a pre engage with the piggy back solenoid. I'm using the mk1 Cooper s harness from minispares.
There are 4 connections on the starter, a small post which links to the starter and a larger post that I've connected the main battery cable, alternator cable and a large brown cable with ring connector from the loom. Is that correct?
There's also, two spade connectors a large and a small. I've connected a thick brown cable from the loom to the large spade, it's the only one that fits.
I've connected the smaller spade to the red and white ignition line.
Is any of this correct? I've read you need to attach a relay when changing from inertia to pre engage. But does this apply here my loom seems to be a good fit here....
Thanks