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« Last post by MPlayle on July 11, 2020, 04:15:34 PM »
Before pulling it all apart, remove just the arm and check the ball on the end.
You may be getting arm movement, but not plunger movement if the ball has cracked loose.
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« Last post by 94touring on July 11, 2020, 04:07:28 PM »
The only way I've been able to leave the engine in was by cutting a small hole in the inner wing to get the tooling in there for pulling the flywheel. Your car being as nice as it is, that may not be ideal. It's been awhile since I've had to do a clutch job so maybe someone has come up with a better solution since.
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« Last post by Rosebud on July 11, 2020, 03:55:17 PM »
I was parked for about an hour and when I jumped into the car, the clutch wouldn't disengage. The pedal went all the way to the floor with very little resistance. The clutch master and slave cylinders seem to be working OK and the clutch arm is moving through its full range.
Anyone care to give me a diagnosis? Also, when it's time for me to open it up, what's the consensus, do I leave the motor in, or do I take the motor out? I understand the clutch can be replaced w/ the motor in the car, just wondering which is easier as I have never pulled a motor or rebuilt a clutch. All opinions welcome. Thanks!
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« Last post by BruceK on July 11, 2020, 12:27:07 PM »
My guess is they made the original trailing arms “good enough” and when the Aussies made the longer ones they took a fresh look and found a simple improvement.
I mean consider that many Mini parts pretty much remained unchanged from 1959 until the end of production in 2000. The engineers might have had an appetite to improve things but they typically did not have the budget to make any changes/improvements. The only reason there was an A+ version of the A-series engine is because Austin-Rover were shamed into doing so when they had to put the Mini drivetrain into the “brand new” Metro in 1980 rather than develop a new powerplant. The A+ was done mostly to fend off criticism in the market of using an ancient engine (already nearly 30 years old by 1980) on a new car model.
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« Last post by MiniDave on July 11, 2020, 10:16:04 AM »
I know, right?
Looks like my assumptions were correct, I did have to drill new holes in the mounts as it sits a little higher than a regular manual transmission engine does as the mounts are about 1/2 wider on an automatic subframe. No real matter as I just drilled 4 new holes and bolted it down. The engine steady will be a different matter tho, I will have to rework the engine end of the steady mount since I usually bolt onto the slave cylinder boss - and there is none......going to be an interesting challenge to figure this mount out.
I wound up taking the intake and exhaust header back off - I managed to get it in the engine stand with them on, but could not get them out again without scratching things, so I removed them.
Next up once I've got the engine stand mounts figured out, I'll pop it into the shipping box and see what I need to do there to secure it for the trip home. Then I can build all that stuff at once and have it ready to go.
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« Last post by MiniDave on July 11, 2020, 10:01:48 AM »
I don't know why you couldn't bore the std size holes out to match the roller bearing on each end.....but there must have been a reason they didn't come this way from the factory on all the other cars - and a reason they did on the Mokes?
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« Last post by BruceK on July 11, 2020, 07:22:33 AM »
It’s not all Oz Mokes. The longer rear arms were needed only when they switched from the 10” wheels to the 13” ones early on in the Oz production run. And they also had to add that kickup at the rear on the body to accommodate the bigger wheels. I didn’t know about the bearring. Interesting.
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« Last post by Willie_B on July 11, 2020, 06:03:14 AM »
Just learned that the Aussie mokes that have longer radius arms had bearings in each end of the pivot instead of a bushing. Kits available for this. Look to be the same size as regular radius arm parts.
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« Last post by BruceK on July 10, 2020, 09:03:57 PM »
It's weird looking at these photos of the automatic and seeing familar things I recognize and then really weird things I've never seen before.
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« Last post by tmsmini on July 10, 2020, 06:19:07 PM »
It was when I made the switch to the electric/electronic gauge that he said no tape.
I think I used some of that sealant on my son's El Camino when we switched out the dash.
I need to dig around for it.
Some EFI temp sensors use two wires where they provide a separate ground.
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