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Restorations / Re: Then I broke down (74 mini mild refurb)
« Last post by MiniDave on Today at 09:43:58 AM »
Or just go with a single HIF44? Vizard says they make as much power as the twins and SO much easier to set up.
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Restorations / Re: Then I broke down (74 mini mild refurb)
« Last post by 94touring on Today at 08:32:06 AM »
Two days of ginger bread house making, scone baking, pumpkin carving, bouncy house carnival going, and Disney movies is much more than I anticipated.  My normal routine is watching something rated M and having drinks.
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Restorations / Re: Then I broke down (74 mini mild refurb)
« Last post by gr8kornholio on Today at 08:21:05 AM »
Lol on the nonstop chatter.  Glad to know itís not just our 8 yr old that does it. 

As I was reading this I was thinking man wouldnít that be simpler with fuel injection. All over power I think is just a limitation of carb technology.  Growing up around v8 carb cars they were always set up for low end or top end or a happy middle with no fun at either end. Itís cool youíve found a way to technically have two carb setups at once and be able to adjust between them.   71.gif
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Restorations / Re: Then I broke down (74 mini mild refurb)
« Last post by 94touring on Today at 07:44:48 AM »
If I had to do it again I'd have gone fuel injection.  Who knew my setup would be so temperamental.  The carb pistons still require a lot of spring force to keep it happy around town.  Yellow springs with a 0.7 oz weight added.  No way it gets around on blue springs or even reds unless I add 2oz of additional weight.  Engine sucks a lot of air with the ram pipes and manifold I guess.  Yeah the dyno figures will be good to know with the vizard mods done and the port matching to the head. 
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Restorations / Re: Then I broke down (74 mini mild refurb)
« Last post by MiniDave on Today at 07:37:35 AM »
That looks pretty  slick! Nice to know you can finally get it into the right range across all conditions - at last! Now we need to get it onto the dyno again and see what the final numbers are - now that it's all broken in and you have the fueling right!
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Restorations / Re: 73 Mini Innocenti 1300 Export
« Last post by MiniDave on Today at 07:26:05 AM »
No, the fresh air horn resides there. They might fit there if they were the flat, original type but these are shaped differently, with the bell mouth. I don't they'll interfere with changing the oil filter.
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Restorations / Re: Then I broke down (74 mini mild refurb)
« Last post by 94touring on Today at 07:11:46 AM »
Haven't touched the mini since my last post in here, so sat for about a month and a half.  Took a break from baby sitting my niece who's non stop talking finally wore me out.  Washed up the mini, aired up the tires, and drove to the shop to fiddle with a vernier choke cable I bought probably two months ago but haven't had a chance to install.  What is a vernier choke cable you ask?  If anyone has ever flown a small piston airplane the fuel control is set by an adjustable vernier knob and cable.  Our mini choke pulls in and out, may or may not stay in place, but a vernier cable you can also pull in and out, or twist the knob and fine tune.  It always stays where you set it.  Why did I want one?  It's been a real bitch to put it mildly to get a perfect fuel curve at all styles of driving with my setup according to the air fuel gauge which doesn't lie. Butt dyno doesn't either.  High cruise being an area that I can't get rich enough to have your standard 13:5-14:7 air fuel ratio, at least not without screwing up my full throttle or low end performance.  I've tried about every needle and spring weight combination you can think of. Shaved needles too.  Finally converted to fixed needle (13 station vs 16 a bias has), got a needle that makes all daily driving perfect, but full throttle runs it pig rich and kills performance, also creates a low down rich spot off idle at full throttle that bogs and bucks the car.  Having tried several fixed needles determined they don't work with my carbs as the needle length just gives me full pig rich at full throttle regardless what I go with.  Mintylambs website is back up so using all my needle knowledge ran some comparisons and picked a few bias needles that get me in the ballpark.  Fabbed up a bracket to hold the vernier cable, tossed in my needles, and did some test.  Got my WOT air fuel back to 12:5-13:0, which significantly increases power and fun factor.  Normal around town driving is still normal, not too rich and boggy, not too lean with flat spots.  Get on the highway going above 65-70 and as the air fuel goes lean ( talking 18:1) causing power loss, flat spots, and probably not too good on the valves, a few twist with the vernier cable moves the jets, and I'm back to a peppy cruise air fuel.  You can feel it come back to life.  Get back into town, give it a few twist in and it's back to town driving.  If I'm in race mode leaving it set for high cruise doesn't effect my air fuel in the 5k rpm and above range  I run it at.  On the drive home during rush hour down hwy 75 doing 70mph turning 4600rpms had a rice burner and some girl in a convertible trying to get all racey with me.  I blasted away and through traffic leaving them in my dust. 
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Restorations / Re: 73 Mini Innocenti 1300 Export
« Last post by 94touring on Today at 06:15:39 AM »
If the oil filter is a bugger to change with the horns there, are they able to be moved to above the starter under the slam panel? 
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Restorations / Re: 73 Mini Innocenti 1300 Export
« Last post by Willie_B on September 20, 2019, 09:21:57 PM »
Changing the oil filter looks like it's going to be a challenge.
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Restorations / Re: 73 Mini Innocenti 1300 Export
« Last post by MiniDave on September 20, 2019, 08:58:02 PM »
Interesting!

Mine has a screen built into the mouth....

The horns are mounted and wired, and a pic of the fresh air scoop....

Once the fittings get here next Tues I can finish up the oil cooler and that will just about wrap up the engine compartment, then I need to finish the dash install so I can put the carbs back on.

Then I'll weld the o2 sensor bung in the collector pipe and install the exhaust. After that it's bleed the brakes and clutch and then see what happens when I turn the key...Ö.after that button up the interior and put some miles on it.

Oh, the front holes to the subframe aren't lining up so I'm going to loosen the subframe all around and see if I can shift it around and get them to match up - there were bolts in there before!
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