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« Last post by 94touring on Today at 04:34:01 PM »
Apparantly I didn't bid on anything luckily. I may be acquiring another shell later this year if anyone is needing one. Repairs needed, which I imagine I'll do before selling, and should have a title too.
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If any of you drunks buy all that junk, sell me the race car shell. Uh, for $1500. Cash money! No, really! Then you could make a Twinni out of the shell with the 12" wheels... an 850 up front and the 1275 in the back. Have a bunch of levers like in the cab of an earth mover. You might need a co pilot just to keep everything in check.
Wait...Dan is a pilot. Perfect! Dan! You need more Minis, right?
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« Last post by tmsmini on Today at 10:48:26 AM »
I have that article saved some where, but it is always good to revisit some of the articles.
There are some interesting threads about AFR, SUs and proper running on some of the other forums. While I believe having data is important and I run installed wide bands in two of our cars and have an Innovate stand alone meter, knowing what to do with the data is just as important.
While messing around with the car that has an HIF 44, I was curious where the lifting pin mode of adjustment would place the AFR. While this HIF does not have a lifting pin, I am able to lift it with a piece of wire. It seems when set by this method the the lambda ended up being .96.
I have not had a chance to go back and revisit this and try out the MK1 needle tool.
Terry
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« Last post by 94touring on July 19, 2018, 10:04:50 PM »
I'm drunk. What do I need to bid?
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« Last post by joakwin on July 19, 2018, 09:42:11 PM »
a few days of what felt like I was wasting my time and watching every video on you tube for it, I figured out the machine
and I have knocked out 5 drills bits so far on the 118 setting
and i tested the bits after i got done with them to make sure they will cut
the problem i was having was with the adjustment of how much to take off,
on the 135 setting, if i had the adjuster mto knob to max, it would pretty much flatten the bit
on the 118 setting on max, the chisel cutting point kind of gets a square before it starts to round down to the heel relief area
on the 118, if the mto knob is at the lowest setting, it doesn't sharpen the cutting face all the way to the end of the bit
i haven't tried the mini setting on the 135 yet
i still have lots to learn
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« Last post by BruceK on July 19, 2018, 08:48:18 PM »
Except,since it's no reserve, MiniGuy could wind up with it for the initial bid. I thought he didn't even work on them, let alone restore them?
D’oh! I somehow missed the no reserve part.  Yeah, that would be interesting. I don’t think he’s ever been prepared to win an auction he’s bid on. He appears on BaT to not-too-subtly mention his Mini consignment services. If each mention was part of a drinking game we’d all be drunk by now.
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Don't know if anybody's read this yet - I added some colored text highlights, but the original link is there for those who want the original article. http://browsemags.com/mini-magazine-may-1-2013/982-su-carburettor-tuning.htmlThis article has some really great information regarding dampers.
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« Last post by MiniDave on July 19, 2018, 04:38:41 PM »
Except,since it's no reserve, MiniGuy could wind up with it for the initial bid. I thought he didn't even work on them, let alone restore them?
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« Last post by BruceK on July 19, 2018, 02:44:24 PM »
Judging by the lack of bids so far (just one and it is a symbolic $1963) and few comments (with none of them very positive), there doesn't seem to be much interest in these Minis.
This auction could very well go RNM.
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« Last post by MiniDave on July 19, 2018, 08:44:55 AM »
I like the kind with the control on the back so that you can set your advance, then all you need to do is find TDC, no trying to figure out how many degrees those tiny hard to see marks mean. Some of the newer ones even read out the RPM, especially handy for those cars that don't have a tachometer....that's what I would get.
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