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Restorations / Re: 73 Mini Innocenti 1300 Export
« Last post by MPlayle on March 25, 2019, 10:38:19 PM »
That's especially good for starting a fresh engine, but the point I'm making is that you always have to run an oil with the additive, or add the ZDDP every time you change the oil.

The best way is to mix it into the oil thoroughly before you add it to the car, don't just pour it in, cause it will stay separated from the oil in a big mass in the bottom of the pan and won't do any good.

If I'm adding the big jug (16 oz) it replaces a quart of oil, then you need to mix it in with the other 4 quarts in a jug, then pour it in the engine and run it right away, for a good 20 min or so to get it thoroughly dispersed.

If you're adding just the 1.5 oz concentrate, you can do the same or just mix it with one quart of oil, but mix it completely before adding it to the engine.

If you're not using an oil that already has it in, you can make up a solution ahead of time so the oil you add as needed will also have it in it.

I just use a good oil with it already in it, like Penn Grade or VR1 racing oil

I added the concentrate as I added fresh oil - add a quart of oil, some of the concentrate, another quart of oil, the rest of the concentrate, the remaining quarts of oil.  I had to fill fresh from replacing the transmission - the long-block of the engine was not taken apart when I "refreshed" the 998 for the Moke.  I plan on adding in that manner with each oil change.

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Maintenance and Modifications / Re: Won't run after baseline carb adjustment
« Last post by 94touring on March 25, 2019, 10:13:17 PM »
I have one barely used you can have for $50. Needs the next exhaust section cut off as it's on mega tight and I couldn't seperate them.  Better suited for a 998 and not rough looking like what you have.  So long as what you have isn't touching or rubbing, you're ok to get around.
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Maintenance and Modifications / Re: Won't run after baseline carb adjustment
« Last post by MiniDave on March 25, 2019, 10:04:00 PM »
I see you have plenty of "English rustproofing" - aka leaking oil under the car!

Yeah, you need one of those Center long branch exhausts that only have one pipe at that point.....

http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Exhaust_and_manifold/Exhaust/Exhaust/C-STR816.aspx?110201&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/lcb%20exhaust.aspx|Back%20to%20search
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Maintenance and Modifications / Re: Won't run after baseline carb adjustment
« Last post by amanley on March 25, 2019, 09:45:27 PM »
So I got the tach installed and working and went to finish my timing adjustment as I started to see light wisps of smoke and the smell of something burning!

So I started looking around and turns out the exhaust downpipe is just about resting on the pot joint boot! I really am not sure how this hasn't come up during the last two gallons of test fuel and tinkering. I don't know how close these are supposed to be and I'm not sure what exhaust / downpipe is installed but somethings got to be off. I'm guessing the exhaust is misplaced somehow.

I obviously won't be running it until this little setback is fixed and I'd love to try and bring it to the cookout in a few weeks. So I'd love any insight you guys have. Google search isn't helping much on how it should look and clearance between the two.

There's a lot of oil there too but i hear that's normal... Let me know if you want this posted in a new post.
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Maintenance and Modifications / Re: Clutch issues
« Last post by drmini on March 25, 2019, 08:37:16 PM »
Replace the flexible hose from the hard line to the Slave Cylinder.
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Maintenance and Modifications / Re: Clutch issues
« Last post by jedduh01 on March 25, 2019, 08:08:34 PM »
Sounds Hydrolic.,...   Make sure it is bled well.

  Next move to the clutch arm = Check the Free play...  you want some Free-play in the arm motion and the bearing action..  but not alot.  Pull the arm manually out towards the fender .  if there is alot of 'loose movement' there is too much freeplay and the hydrolic motion does not push enough to disengage the clutch... Adjust the small 1/4 nut out a few  flats to take away some freeplay.
  There is a technical spec. but its Minimal...

next.. check into the ARM BALL on the end of the lever arm. =  they can wear a flat spot also the the CLutch Plunger can wear too  If very worn they will require more 'movement' to actuate..

Since your clevis's are good and Hydrolics are good.. those should be the next investigation places.
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Restorations / Re: 73 Mini Innocenti 1300 Export
« Last post by MiniDave on March 25, 2019, 07:24:26 PM »
Crankshaft woes...…

The crank expert said it was fixable....sort of. The place that was bad was under where the primary gear rides, so the plan was to machine that down to a good finish, then get a new primary gear (which has a removable full floating bushing instead of the pressed in, reamed to size one) and then have a new bushing made that would be correct to the new inside diameter. Then, given the wear patterns on the bearings, we figured the journals were probably tapered - which happens in shops that don't maintain their equipment - which meant machining all the journals too. The rods were 10 under and the mains were already 20 under......but with all that done we would have a proper working crankshaft.

Or...…..we could take the new crankshaft I have and simply machine the rod bearings down from 1.75 to 1.625 and run new standard sized bearings and a normal unmodified primary gear.

The tipping point was the surface the flywheel mounts to was fretted badly, and while I could clean it up, it was showing some wear, and the new crank was..... well...…..new!

So we decided to go the new crank way, it should be done in 10 days or so. That will give me time to order bearings, primary gear and other bits from England.

Given the other things I've found I know I'll also be getting a new cam and lifters, new oil pump, and we're discussing a lightened flywheel. Once I know how the block is going to turn out then I'll know if I need new pistons too or just some new rings...... I should hear from the block guy in a few days.

In the meantime I'll be cleaning up the other bits and tearing into the transmichigan….debating on changing the final drive to 3:1 from the 3:44 it has now..... and of course I'll need to change all the seals and gaskets and clean everything out thoroughly.....so plenty to do yet in the shop.

More as it happens!  77.gif
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Restorations / Re: hello new to site, vtec automatic swap
« Last post by MiniDave on March 25, 2019, 07:11:46 PM »
When is it coming back from paint, Joakwin?
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Maintenance and Modifications / Clutch issues
« Last post by Mudhen on March 25, 2019, 06:59:14 PM »
Throwing the white flag...frickin' clutch issues on my '65.  21.gif

A few years ago I got sick of always having troubles with it [the clutch] and went through all the pins, etc.  They were a MESS.  But after cleaning/replacing everything all was finally well.  And then last summer it started shifting a little harder than normal.  Then it would take multiple pumps of the pedal so I could shift...and then it wouldn't shift.  So down she went.

Assuming hydraulics but not sure master or slave I just figured I'd do both (even though the master was still purty from being replaced maybe 5k miles ago).  So today I replaced them.  Still not working!  I can see the arm moving nicely now but still can't shift.

Maybe more bleeding?  It must be hydraulics, right?  The way it was behaving last year???  I just put a new disc in it when I had the engine out...in 1989... 

Thanks guys.
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Restorations / Re: hello new to site, vtec automatic swap
« Last post by travellering on March 25, 2019, 05:36:50 PM »


4 side windows came in from mini sport shipped from England

no broken glass

Hmmm, 4 CV stroker 15's ought to fix that.... :D
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