Restoration-Mini

Technical Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: LilDrunkenSmurf on September 21, 2015, 12:22:43 PM

Title: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on September 21, 2015, 12:22:43 PM
Hey guys, I'm going to write up all the stuff I've done (so far) to the mini from another project thread. I'll ideally update this one once more progress is made.

Reginald - The 1996 Rover Mini Cooper S

Power:
1275cc Single Point Injection Motor
4 Speed Manual Transmission
K&N Cone filter
Cat Delete/Test Pipe
NGK BP6ES Spark Plugs
Bosch Plug Wires
Stainless steel brake lines
A/C delete

Interior:
Recaro Evo 8 seats
Custom seat brackets
Nardi Wood Grain Wheel
Mk1 Mini Shift Knob
Cup Holder Mesh Basket
JVC KD-AR855BT
Pioneer Speakers (Rear shelf)

Exterior:
British Racing Green
White Roof
White bonnet stripes
12" Cooper Wheels
Falken ZE914 - 165/60R12
"New Mini" front and bonnet badges

Suspension:
Adjustable Hi-los
KYB AGX Gas shocks
Rear subframe refresh
Upper arm refresh
New front cones

I have a tendancy to call my vehicles "she" but the wife insisted on naming the Mini "Reginald" AKA "Reggie"

The day Reggie arrived:
(http://i.imgur.com/T1YF7AT.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/09ucBmL.jpg)

Filling up:
(http://photos-c.ak.instagram.com/hphotos-ak-xfa1/10665503_300893273452290_1013961442_n.jpg)


(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/376/19591168844_877f518659_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/vRcRXb)
IMG_1894.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vRcRXb) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/460/19592863853_e967a272da_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/vRmxPt)
IMG_1896.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vRmxPt) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/526/19592872033_c5f37e91ca_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/vRmAfv)
IMG_1898.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vRmAfv) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3751/20025824040_9009396b86_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/wvBzNh)
IMG_1899.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/wvBzNh) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/266/19591189264_31bc9f50da_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/vRcY2f)
IMG_1901.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vRcY2f) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on September 21, 2015, 12:22:49 PM
A few things learned:

If you hit enough bumps, the ignition coil wire will fall off:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/88223534/Mini/2014-05-09%2007.22.08.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/88223534/Mini/2014-05-09%2007.29.09.jpg)

Reggie likes to piddle:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/88223534/Mini/2014-04-21%2021.41.09.jpg)

Also, I learned what it's like to replace a water pump. I had no idea what I was getting myself into:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/88223534/Mini/2014-05-23%2020.35.42.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/88223534/Mini/2014-05-23%2022.27.59.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/88223534/Mini/2014-05-23%2022.28.04.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/88223534/Mini/2014-05-23%2022.28.08.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/88223534/Mini/2014-05-24%2018.11.11.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/88223534/Mini/2014-05-24%2018.11.21.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/88223534/Mini/2014-05-24%2018.11.28.jpg)

The muffler bushings like to fall off:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/88223534/Mini/2014-09-11%2020.14.08.jpg)
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on September 21, 2015, 12:23:05 PM
Parts!

(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/88223534/Mini/2014-05-20%2016.59.24.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/88223534/Mini/2015-02-02%2017.49.44.jpg)

Oh and did I mention I raced it?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qnO617FdLOw

(http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah281/SportPhreak/Fiesta/SASC/April%20Autocross/DSC_0011_zpsdjrjwzwa.jpg)
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on September 28, 2015, 12:38:29 PM
Thinking of doing a LHD conversion. Has anyone done this? From what I understand, I need a new rack (which I was going to replace anyways), a new dash panel, and then it depends on the MC I currently have.
If I have separate brake/clutch MC, they'll move over to the other side, but if I have a combined/servo one, I'll need to run bars under the dash? If I was able to move them, would I need any new lines? Does the gas pedal move pretty easily as well? And someone told me I'd have to delete the A/C, which I think I'd be ok with, as long as I was able to remove the compressor, which doubles as a pulley right now (I have 2 separate belts).
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on September 28, 2015, 12:43:59 PM
I'm pretty sure you're mostly there, there could be some other odds and ends to move over too.....were the late model cars built in left drive from the factory too? (now that I think about it I guess they were, for the Euro market)

Given they were built for both left and right drive the factory tried to make it as ambidextrous as possible, which makes it a whole lot easier to switch it later!  4.gif
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on September 28, 2015, 01:04:41 PM
Yup, the German ones were LHD. I tried to track one down, but got outbid every single time.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on September 28, 2015, 01:26:42 PM
I caught a lot of flack from other classic Mini owners when I suggested I might convert Buzz to left drive, of course that would not stop me as it's my car, my money.....but I was surprised how vocal they were that I not change it's "Britishness."

I ran out of money and time when I was doing the other repairs on Buzz last year, but may visit this again real soon.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on September 28, 2015, 01:30:41 PM
Mine's more Japanese than British, so no one's given me flack yet. But holy, dashboards are expensive. I have a light Burr dashboard rightnow, and was thinking of going allow, as the Burr is cracking pretty heavily, but minispares doesn't list any LHD alloy ones. I found a LHD charcoal one that would fit my needs, but none of them have cutouts for the Japanese A/C vents (leaning more towards deleting the A/C).

Still waiting for Auto-mann to get back to me with a quote.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on September 28, 2015, 01:37:42 PM
Like this?

http://www.minisport-usa.com/mini-spare-parts/info_PMY471A.html (http://www.minisport-usa.com/mini-spare-parts/info_PMY471A.html)

(http://www.minisport-usa.com/mini-spare-parts/PMY471A.jpg)

or this?

http://www.minisport-usa.com/mini-spare-parts/info_PMY467.html (http://www.minisport-usa.com/mini-spare-parts/info_PMY467.html)

(http://www.minisport-usa.com/mini-spare-parts/PMY467.jpg)

$193 US from Mini Sport in the UK, it might be more for you because of the exchange rate and whether you have to pay VAT.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on September 28, 2015, 01:40:07 PM
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/430/19716680530_f4d48dd2a4_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/w3i9cL)
IMG_1881.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/w3i9cL) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

I was looking at this one:
http://www.minispares.com//product/classic/DASH011.aspx
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on September 28, 2015, 01:44:32 PM
I see what you mean about the vents.....
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on September 28, 2015, 01:47:44 PM
Now that I'm thinking about it, I think I'd prefer to delete the a/c. Those vents rattle, and I can't find replacements, and under the passenger side kick panel (the black plastic), there's a huge fan/motor that I believe runs the A/C separately from the heater core. It's monstrously huge, and I can only imagine is a huge weight as well.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on September 28, 2015, 03:01:23 PM
If you remove that you will take some weight out of the car no doubt, and I'll bet there are folks out there looking for an A/C for their cars - people who live in hot places like me! So be careful when you remove it and don't damage it, you can sell the parts for money to fund the other things you want to do on the car.

BTW, in order to replace the steering rack you have to lower the subframe....to do that you have to remove the exhaust, shift linkage, engine tie bar (to the body) remove the bolts that hold the subframe to the body and the tower bolts, then lower it on a jack till the steering rack will clear.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MPlayle on September 28, 2015, 03:59:44 PM
You also do indeed have the integrated servo/brake master unit.  You would need to find or craft the cross-over bar the factory used for LHD cars with that servo/master.  An alternative would be to pull out that servo/master and go with a non-servo dual/tandem master on the left.  I don't know if your current pedal box would connect directly to the non-servo master.  A careful check from under the dash should be able to determine that.  (Or query on one of the UK Mini forums whether anyone has made that change.)
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on September 28, 2015, 04:33:54 PM
Quote from: MiniDave on September 28, 2015, 03:01:23 PM
If you remove that you will take some weight out of the car no doubt, and I'll bet there are folks out there looking for an A/C for their cars - people who live in hot places like me! So be careful when you remove it and don't damage it, you can sell the parts for money to fund the other things you want to do on the car.

BTW, in order to replace the steering rack you have to lower the subframe....to do that you have to remove the exhaust, shift linkage, engine tie bar (to the body) remove the bolts that hold the subframe to the body and the tower bolts, then lower it on a jack till the steering rack will clear.

I was planning on dropping both the front and rear subframes to replace the shocks all around, replace the front cones, and replace all the bushings with poly bushings over the winter, if I can find a place to do. The rack was on the to do list to do at the same time, it was just whether or not I would source a LHD or RHD rack.

As for the A/C, I'll definitely be careful in removing it.

Quote from: MPlayle on September 28, 2015, 03:59:44 PM
You also do indeed have the integrated servo/brake master unit.  You would need to find or craft the cross-over bar the factory used for LHD cars with that servo/master.  An alternative would be to pull out that servo/master and go with a non-servo dual/tandem master on the left.  I don't know if your current pedal box would connect directly to the non-servo master.  A careful check from under the dash should be able to determine that.  (Or query on one of the UK Mini forums whether anyone has made that change.)


Thanks for the info. I posted on there over a year ago without a single reply. I'm just wondering if it'll be cheaper to do the bars, or the older style MC, and the pros/cons of both.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: 94touring on September 28, 2015, 06:24:36 PM
Quote from: MiniDave on September 28, 2015, 03:01:23 PM
If you remove that you will take some weight out of the car no doubt, and I'll bet there are folks out there looking for an A/C for their cars - people who live in hot places like me! So be careful when you remove it and don't damage it, you can sell the parts for money to fund the other things you want to do on the car.

BTW, in order to replace the steering rack you have to lower the subframe....to do that you have to remove the exhaust, shift linkage, engine tie bar (to the body) remove the bolts that hold the subframe to the body and the tower bolts, then lower it on a jack till the steering rack will clear.

Plus clutch and brake lines from the masters. 

Has anyone ever done it with the subby in place?  I've always had a bare shell to work with but will be doing my rack next week and hate the idea of doing so much removal for one simple rack job. 
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on September 28, 2015, 06:52:02 PM
Dan, I don't think the rack will come out with the sub in situ, you only have to lower it a bit tho, you don't have to drop it completely.

LDS, there's another way you could do the brakes and keep a servo - go to the remote servo kit (about $250) and use a regular tandem master, then all you need do is run the brake lines. But I think I would try to engineer the crossover bar setup like the factory did it.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on October 20, 2015, 05:45:48 PM
Can't find the remote servo kit anywhere. About to pull the trigger on my order, but I dropped the conversion stuff (and the rack) for now. Just shocks, mirrors, and some trim pieces.

Did an oil change today. Switched from Synthetic 5w40 to Conventional 20w50, as per my owners manual. Battery also died and will no longer hold a charge, so I'm looking for one of those. The internet says "Type 063" which comes up with Euro results (from the Peugeot 306 Diesel) or a "51R" which is out of a '67 Toyota and is considered a legacy battery, but may be able to get one.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on October 20, 2015, 05:54:38 PM
Here's what I was talking about for a remote servo kit.....

http://www.minisport-usa.com/mini-spare-parts/info_MS2679.html (http://www.minisport-usa.com/mini-spare-parts/info_MS2679.html)

And here's a pic of my car with one installed....the big black round thing on the left in this pic. A remote doesn't care which side the M/C is on.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on October 21, 2015, 09:30:08 AM
Is that still the case if I already have a servo? Man your engine bay is so much cleaner than mine.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MPlayle on October 21, 2015, 09:43:36 AM
It depends on which type of servo.  MiniDave shows the "remote" servo.  The other style is the "integrated" servo, where the master cylinder and the servo are combined as one unit.

I believe your car (being a later Japanese spec SPI) has the "integrated" unit.

The "integrated" servo/MC units were always mounted on the right (over the clutch cover) due to space requirements.  That said, they were used on both RHD and LHD cars.  The factory did a cross-over bar under the dash for LHD cars.  These are sometimes hard to find for doing a RHD-to-LHD conversion.  Some folks have made their own.

Richard (red pickup shown on the home page) made his own and could probably give you instructions on either making your own or having one made for you.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on October 21, 2015, 10:00:07 AM
Those bars were what I was looking for. I've been unable to find any reference, part number, designs, or anything.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MPlayle on October 21, 2015, 12:58:24 PM
This is what Richard made (as shown in his "Project car in Bolivia" thread):

(http://www.widman.biz/mini_pics/m44/brake_pedal_painted.jpg)

His username on here is richard1.  Send him a message and see if he can provide instructions for having one made for you.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on October 21, 2015, 05:15:48 PM
Richard was converting from a manual to an automatic tho......
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: 94touring on October 21, 2015, 05:21:10 PM
I'd just ditch the servo. 
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MPlayle on October 21, 2015, 07:15:51 PM
My second Mini was actually a 1991 German spec SPI.  It had the cross-over bar for the "integrated" servo.  The brake master/servo was over the clutch cover, but the clutch master was near the radiator (standard LHD location).

For a LHD manual transmission car, left hand pedal box in Richard's picture would also include the clutch pedal that would connect to the master directly above it.  The brake pedal would activate the cross-over bar similar to what Richard manufactured.

Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on October 27, 2015, 07:46:41 PM
Just in case anyone is looking in the future... It's a 51R. The battery is a group 51R
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: Nicholasupton on October 28, 2015, 02:05:03 PM
Here is a factory pedal box for post 84 LHD minis. Should give you a good idea of what needs to happen for the LHD switch, and keep youe existing master cylinders, only addition part needed is a new clutch hardline.
http://www.7ent.com/products/lhd-pedal-conversion-assembly-1984-on-sevu9001.html (http://www.7ent.com/products/lhd-pedal-conversion-assembly-1984-on-sevu9001.html)
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on February 22, 2016, 11:17:20 AM
Going to bump this. Not many updates since Oct. I removed the wing mirrors, fixed most of the interior rattles, and pulled the broken ashtray out and cleaned out most of the glue holding it in. I put the car up for sale, and with a few small nibbles, haven't sold it. I recently started driving it again with some 145/80/12 tires, that rub like crazy, but I fell in love with the car again. I'm debating putting in a semi-large order once I move here in 2 weeks, but need a few small pieces of advice.

Order will be placed at minispares.com. With the CAD doing so abysmally compared to the USD, it's much cheaper and easier for me to order from the UK. I've reached out to 2 places locally in Canada, but one didn't give me a full quote and the other never got back to me. I'd love to buy some 13" wheels and tires, but it's not in the budget, so I'm looking at getting some proper sized 12" tires (165/60R12).

The console shroud piece around the steering column is touching the ignition lock, so at certain RPM it buzzes quite badly. If I shove one of the keys in there, it's fine, but I can't seem to get it fully removed to put anything in there to stop it. It wouldn't unclip the 2 pieces at the bottom of the shroud after I removed the screws from both sides. Any advice?

I'm also looking at fitting door mirrors, as I didn't like the style of the wing mirrors, and would rather the function of door mirrors. I've put some fitting plates, but can someone let me know if I need anything else?

I'm also planning on replacing the chrome trim on both sides of the car, as well as replacing all the seals for all the windows except the door windows. Can someone let me know if I'm missing anything for the rear piece?

I also have a squealing serpentine belt, but I'm not sure which one I need, as there's 2 (due to the A/C pulley doubling as an extender). I'd ideally like to delete the A/C, but I'm not sure what belt would be required, or if it's just that simple. I can replace both at once, but I can't figure out which ones I need.

This is roughly what I'm looking at:
1x CRT10004 - MIRROR SUCTION PAD (http://www.minispares.com//product/classic/CRT10004.aspx)
2x 342001 - FRONT KAYABA GAS UPGRADE SHOCK ABSORBER (http://www.minispares.com//product/classic/342001.aspx)
2x 342002 - REAR KAYABA GAS UPGRADE SHOCK ABSORBER (http://www.minispares.com//product/classic/342002.aspx)
1x YGA4694 - ASHTRAY AS PER CZH625 (http://www.minispares.com//product/classic/YGA4694.aspx)
2x GZF105A - BODY SEAM PLASTIC SIDE TRIM CHROME DE-LUXE FLUTED TYPE (http://www.minispares.com//product/classic/GZF105A.aspx)
2x EAM7724 - SEAL FOR REAR OPENING QUARTER LIGHT MK3 (http://www.minispares.com//product/classic/EAM7724.aspx)
1x C-AJJ3360 - LOWER ARMS, ON CAR ADJUSTABLE (http://www.minispares.com//product/classic/C-AJJ3360.aspx)
1x M90999 - DOOR FITTING KIT R/H PLATE TO FIT GAM215A/107 80 ON (http://www.minispares.com//product/classic/M90999.aspx)
1x M90997 - DOOR FITTING KIT L/H GAM216/108 TO 80-ON (http://www.minispares.com//product/classic/M90997.aspx)
1x GAM216A - DOOR MIRROR L/H STAINLESS STEEL (http://www.minispares.com//product/classic/GAM216A.aspx)
1x GAM215A - DOOR MIRROR R/H STAINLESS STEEL (http://www.minispares.com//product/classic/GAM215A.aspx)
2x GSJ166MS - BALL JOINT KIT,MINI-GENUINE MINI SPARES PART (http://www.minispares.com//product/classic/GSJ166MS.aspx)
1x BG5101MS - STEERING COLUMN DROP BRACKET PRE 1996 MODELS ONLY (http://www.minispares.com//product/classic/BG5101MS.aspx)
1x JRC2674 - REAR SCREEN RUBBER FITS ALL MINIS (http://www.minispares.com//product/classic/JRC2674.aspx)
1x CCB10011MS - WINDSCREEN SEAL, LATER WIDER TYPE 1991-2000 (http://www.minispares.com//product/classic/CCB10011MS.aspx)
1x 660330 - SUSPENSION CONE COMPRESSOR WITH DUAL THREAD TOOL (http://www.minispares.com//product/classic/660330.aspx) (This is for down the road, just in case)
2x 37H8052 - WINDSCREEN FILLET BLACK STRIP (http://www.minispares.com//product/classic/37H8052.aspx)
1x MS73EVO - CAMBER AND CASTOR REAR TRACK ADJUSTMENT BRACKETS (http://www.minispares.com//product/classic/MS73EVO.aspx)
4x TYRE04 - TYRE FALKEN 165/60/12 TYPE ZE914 (http://www.minispares.com//product/classic/TYRE04.aspx)

Without the belts, it works out to 518.78 GBP, with a shipping quote of 103.22GBP, which works out to roughly 622GBP or $1200 Canadian pesos (or $880 USD)
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on February 22, 2016, 12:33:21 PM
Hope the suction cup deally-bobber works better for you than it did for me - I paid $10 US ( for a freaking suction cup?!?!?!) for one of those from a US supplier and it came off the windshield every time I accelerated in first gear or hit a bump in the road - I wound up using some clear silicone to stick it permanently to the windshield.

Those lower arms are kinda fiddly to adjust, I prefer this kind - I think they're heavier built but not really any heavier than those....I've used both on various cars. On one car that had them I had to use a crow foot to get to the lock nut and tighten it properly.

http://usa.minisport.com/spdsp431a-heavy-duty-adjustable-mini-bottom-suspension-arms.html (http://usa.minisport.com/spdsp431a-heavy-duty-adjustable-mini-bottom-suspension-arms.html)

(http://d1xqfosktnw51i.cloudfront.net/media/catalog/product/cache/6/image/500x500/480a488820ca6be8b35c3ea79105c0b6/s/p/spdsp431a.jpg)

BTW, those rear plates are for adjusting the camber and toe, and while the caster is affected when you change the other two, there is no specific adjustment for that on the rear, just FYI.

There are 3 screws that hold the two halves of the shroud together not 2, one on each side and one down at the bottom - you've missed one.

If you take the v-belt to your local auto parts store, they can probably match it up for length.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on February 22, 2016, 12:53:30 PM
The front camber adjustment and rear plates were recommendations from a local owner who autocrosses his '92 Rover that was converted to LHD. He swapped to smaller discs to run 10" wheels however.

I can't find those on minispares. Trying to price out a similar cart on minisports, but the site is super slow right now.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on February 22, 2016, 12:54:57 PM
Their site is always really slow since they "improved" it......
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: Spitz on February 22, 2016, 03:21:33 PM
I would agree with you and ditch the AC.

I have an 89 Jap MINI with basically the same dash set-up.  That fan motor in the lower left footwell is indeed huge.
Although it still gets pretty hot here in the summer ( can reach 35 ) I've never found the need for the AC.....plus mine was a 998 with Auto trans., so not a lot of power to spare running it.

I've since swapped to manual gearbox and 1130 engine.

My opinion is that swapping to LHD would be a huge benefit.  Safety as well as ease of driving.  The opinion of " a real MINI is RHD " is stupid.  There was probably 50% of each made.

The only reason I've not switched mine to LHD is cost....mostly the dash.  If I had a dash, I'd sacrifice the power brakes and move stuff over.

As for the steering rack....I did swap out racks on my Jap car.  The original was worn and I replaced it with a good used one.  The swap-out was actually easier than I thought.  You do not need to remove the subframe/power unit.

As I recall, I removed the bolts holding the rear mounts, removed dog bone from head attachment point, released tower bolts ( don't recall if completely removed or just let the frame drop the required amount.
There needs to be a board spanning under the car just behind the rear mounts ( or a jack either side ) to left the body the required amount.
After releasing the steering rod ends, removing the U-bolts, removing pinch bolt at bottom of column...The rack can be wiggled out
I don't recall if I removed the carb...but it's something to keep an eye on while dropping ( if you have a carb that is )
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on February 22, 2016, 06:17:20 PM
How did you deal with removing the A/C pulley? I'm not sure how to get the crank pulley/fan belt/etc all lined up. Do I need to buy anything new to make it work?
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: Spitz on February 23, 2016, 07:24:29 AM
I honestly do not recall the configuration,  if the two belts are driven by the crank, or if the water pump drives the AC...or if belt is from Alt to AC
Either way, after getting rid of the AC you may just have to trial and error fit the right length belt to drive Alt and water pump.
So the only "new" thing needed may be the belt.
You will appreciate the room you aquire.
Behind the little rad on the right side of engine bay, you'll then find the metal car ID tag.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on February 23, 2016, 07:44:07 AM
Well, there's 2 belts, with the A/C being a dual pulley. From what I'm reading online, I'll need a new alt bracket to line it up with the crank pulley and fan belt, but I have no idea which bracket.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: Spitz on February 23, 2016, 07:58:00 AM
Ah...it's coming back to me now....one thing I forgot to mention;

What I did was actually replace the engine with an A series when I went from auto to manual.  The bracket for the alt is different I believe between the A and A+.....or is it that the casting of the block positions the bracket differently.
Anyway...sorry, forgot to mention that bit...lol
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MPlayle on February 23, 2016, 08:31:43 AM
With the A/C in place, a special alternator bracket arrangement is used.  A lower bracket sets the A/C compressor lower than the standard alternator position and an upper bracket puts the alternator in a higher than normal position.  These special brackets use the standard mounting points.

When removing the A/C system, the special brackets are also removed and the normal alternator bracket is put in their place.

This link shows the different ones at 7Ent:

http://www.7ent.com/search.php?search_query=alternator&x=0&y=0

The one designated FOR084 appears to provide some adjustment.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on March 16, 2016, 05:55:58 AM
Placed my large order. Tacked on the bracket and a belt. Ideally it's the right one, but if not... -shrug-
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on March 19, 2016, 09:18:08 AM
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/88223534/Mini/2016-03-19%2009.46.37.jpg)
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on March 21, 2016, 12:15:56 PM
Has anyone done the A/C delete before? I ordered a new bracket/belt, but I want to start tearing things out, like the a/c rad, lines, and blower motor and such.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on March 23, 2016, 06:44:37 AM
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1554/25377731973_f6c878d177_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/EExvyZ)
Parts! (https://flic.kr/p/EExvyZ) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1448/25373774394_919b75881f_z.jpg)
(https://flic.kr/p/EEce7S)Mini Catalog (https://flic.kr/p/EEce7S) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1626/25373780254_41886f2e6b_z.jpg)
(https://flic.kr/p/EEcfRU)RIP engine bay (https://flic.kr/p/EEcfRU) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1679/25911527891_24eb301f5c_z.jpg)
(https://flic.kr/p/FtHmuT)RIP interior (https://flic.kr/p/FtHmuT) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1594/25980563256_f37e832f16_z.jpg)
(https://flic.kr/p/FzPbiN)Recaro (https://flic.kr/p/FzPbiN) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1500/25980626756_cd152b9c5b_z.jpg)
(https://flic.kr/p/FzPvbC)U WOT M8 (https://flic.kr/p/FzPvbC) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on March 23, 2016, 06:50:25 AM
So I bought a new alt bracket and belt, to try and delete the A/C system, however the alternator is a dual bolt setup.

So I'm not sure how a bracket like this:

(http://minispares.com/image.axd?type=product&picture=350/CAM4853.jpg)

Bolts to an alternator like this:

(http://minispares.com/image.axd?type=product&picture=350/GXE1003.jpg)

(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/469/19716673288_58561482ea_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/w3i73U)
IMG_1883.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/w3i73U) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

Or did I buy the bracket that just holds the bottom of the alternator, but still have no way of lining up the pulley with the crank pulley/waterpump?
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MPlayle on March 23, 2016, 07:58:50 AM
I don't know about the questions for the pulley alignment in your other thread.  I can answer the bracket question here.

The odd 'L' shaped bracket holds the back of the alternator.  The two bolt holes on the same side are where the bracket mounts to the motor with the single hole pointing up for the back of the alternator.  The top front of the alternator is held by the "ear" of the water pump.

The two top mounts of the alternator make the pivot axis for tightening the belt.

The curved/slotted piece is the slide mount for the lower front of the alternator.  That piece is mounted to the engine by the single hole.  It usually is mounted to curve up and the alternator bolt slides in the slot.

Without the a/c, the alternator sits a bit lower behind the grill.  There are also usually some spacers with the top mounts to move the alternator towards the radiator.  See the attached picture from one of my past Minis.  I labeled the 'L' bracket  position and the spacers.

Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on March 23, 2016, 08:18:06 AM
So essentially, I bought 1/3 of what I need. I need the curved bracket for the bottom of the alternator, and the spacers for the top of it? That'll move the alternator/pulley closer to the radiator.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MPlayle on March 23, 2016, 08:46:12 AM
I am not familiar enough with the a/c setup to know for sure, but I would think there already is an equivalent to the curved piece for adjusting the current alternator belt.

The spacers are just washers and spacing tubes, often available at a local hardware store.  (Although, you may need to trim to fit for the amount of spacing your installation needs.)

Examples of spacers at Home Depot:

http://www.homedepot.com/s/spacer?NCNI-5 (http://www.homedepot.com/s/spacer?NCNI-5)

I added some notations to your picture of the alternator and brackets.  There will be an equivalent to the curved piece already present on the lower front mount.  You "should" be able to reuse that in place of the curved piece shown.

Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on March 23, 2016, 08:48:49 AM
I'm pretty sure the curved piece is currently built into the compressor, so I'll likely need to replace it, and I'll probably pick this up at the same time:

http://minispares.com//product/classic/12G289.aspx

And yeah, I'll fab up the spacers, but I won't order anything until I pull the compressor off to verify if I need it or not.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: Willie_B on March 23, 2016, 09:43:08 AM
A recent Classic Motorsports magazine showed where they used a turn buckle and a couple of heim joints for the lower adjustable mount. Then you just turn the turn buckle to slowly tighten the belt and it all stays put when you tighten all the bolts.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on March 26, 2016, 04:45:56 PM
Starts working on the car today, after getting the recaro's in. Need to pick up a 1-1/2" socket for the balljoints, as well as a balljoint puller. Trip to princess auto tomorrow.

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1488/26055736675_74cb5e7151_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FGssKe)
Seats in! (https://flic.kr/p/FGssKe) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1550/26055737555_8600126c2b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FGst1p)
Mini parts (https://flic.kr/p/FGst1p) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1625/25989396741_83e2614be7_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FAAscg)
Mini shocks (https://flic.kr/p/FAAscg) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1571/25782879900_f7bf876031_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FhkZW5)
Mini balljoint (https://flic.kr/p/FhkZW5) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on March 27, 2016, 09:16:37 AM
Looking at the rear shocks, and the right hand side looks pretty easy to replace, but the left side looks like I need to pull the gas tank. How hard is that to do? Can I leave it all hooked up and just move it out of the way, or do I need to do a full disconnect and pull the tank? Managed to get the first camber/toe plate installed last night, after much weeping and gnashing of teeth.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on March 27, 2016, 10:39:43 AM
It took me two days to get the bolts out so I could install the rear camber/toe plates on Buzz. Back the bolt out as far as it would go, squirt some Kroil on it, run it in again, let it set a while, back it out again, maybe a tiny bit further, juice it again, run it in again etc etc.

But in the end I got them all out without damaging the threads or breaking one of the captive nuts loose. In retrospect I should have gotten out my acetylene torch and heated them up and saved a lot of time.

Yes, I think you can remove the retaining strap and swing the tank out far enough to reach the nuts on the top of the shock, but unless it's full I'd just remove it.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: 94touring on March 27, 2016, 10:46:04 AM
Gotta remove the tank but it's easy enough to do. 

Heat and penetrating oil on old stubborn bolts. 
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: Willie_B on March 27, 2016, 11:27:21 AM
Here is the lower mount that Classic Motorsports did on their mini.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on March 27, 2016, 11:31:59 AM
They must be in Australia!   ;D
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: Willie_B on March 27, 2016, 11:46:38 AM
It is right side up on my computer but it flips it when I post. Tried it twice.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on March 27, 2016, 11:49:20 AM
So, try posting it upside down and see if it's right side up then?  ;D
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: 94touring on March 27, 2016, 12:37:06 PM
I'll be the rotate guy. 
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MPlayle on March 27, 2016, 01:15:57 PM
From the look of the fabricated bracket, they were installing on a 'A' block (pre-A+) as though swapping from a generator to an alternator.  That conversion requires a longer upper bracket.

Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: Willie_B on March 27, 2016, 02:09:40 PM
I was posting it up for the lower mount, made from a turn-buckle and end links. Makes it easier to adjust the belt.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MPlayle on March 27, 2016, 06:46:34 PM
Quote from: Willie_B on March 27, 2016, 02:09:40 PM
I was posting it up for the lower mount, made from a turn-buckle and end links. Makes it easier to adjust the belt.

I definitely agree that the turn-buckle would make the adjustment process much easier.  I wish I had taken a picture of the adjuster on the green Panel Van I had last year.  It had an interesting adjuster on it.

Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on March 29, 2016, 05:52:22 AM
Picked up a balljoint puller and 1-1/2" socket yesterday. Got the top left side balljoint done, need to hammer out the collar to get the bottom one done. Tried installing the camber arm, but I couldn't get the old bushing out, so I'll be ordering new ones, as well as bolts. Got the rear left side shock done behind the gas tank, so that corner's finally done. Got the rear right shock done, but when trying to remove the old bracket I think I managed to snap the retaining nut.

Is there an easy way to get access to the back of this nut to reweld it, or do I need to drop the subframe? (Also, what bushing is that on the radius arm? I should likely replace it.)

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1713/26046748321_9f2a36434a_z.jpg)
(https://flic.kr/p/FFEoPB)Camber plate (https://flic.kr/p/FFEoPB) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

Once I have the new bushings and bolts, I can put together the front end again.

Also got my new Falken ZE914 tires mounted (165/60R12), which look pretty good. The wheels have a lot of corroded crap on them. I'm debating between trying to clean them using wet sanding, or saying screw it any getting them painted or powdercoated, but I'd lose the dual-color on the wheels. Also have been trying to clean up the bubbling on the chrome gas cap and chrome boot lights, but it's not going well. I might need to say screw it and order new ones, unless I can figure out how to restore or re-chrome the pieces.

Edit:
I have a few options as I see it.

1) Ignore it. This means I can't install the camber/toe bracket.
2) Drill it out. I lose 1/4 bolts, and have the retaining nut rattling around the inside of the subfram.
3) Drop the subframe, there's an access whole that's pushed up against the body of the car. I'll need to drop the exhaust, disconnect the handbrake and the brake lines.
4) Cut a hole on the bottom of the subframe. This would be the easiest, that would resolve the issue. I could ask my welder friend nicely to reweld the nut into place, and potentially weld a plate to cover the hole.

Alternatively, I could take it to a shop, and let them deal with it.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on March 29, 2016, 08:45:07 AM
Drop the subframe.....do it right has always been my motto. It's more work but in the end you have a proper repair, not a bodge. While you have the subframe out pull the control arms and rebuild them if needed.

See this is what happens with every Mini job, you want to do one small thing on the front and wind up rebuilding the whole front end, repainting the engine compartment - rebuilding the motor....... ask me how I know!

No, don't............. :-[

Where did you find a deep well 1 1/2" socket?
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on March 29, 2016, 09:25:43 AM
Quote from: MiniDave on March 29, 2016, 08:45:07 AM
Drop the subframe.....do it right has always been my motto. It's more work but in the end you have a proper repair, not a bodge. While you have the subframe out pull the control arms and rebuild them if needed.

See this is what happens with every Mini job, you want to do one small thing on the front and wind up rebuilding the whole front end, repainting the engine compartment - rebuilding the motor....... ask me how I know!

No, don't............. :-[

Where did you find a deep well 1 1/2" socket?

Princess Auto.

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/pro-point-1-2-in-dr-1-1-2-in-deep-impact-socket/A-p8474066e

If I'm going to drop the subframe, I'm assuming I would be replacing a bunch of bushings. If possible, can you give me a rundown of what I should be ordering?

I'm thinking:
2x GSV1125 - Radius Arm Rebuild Kit (http://minispares.com/product/Classic/GSV1125.aspx)
1x MS43 - Rear subframe bolts + bush (http://minispares.com/product/Classic/MS43.aspx)

The radius arm rebuild kit mentions reaming the bush for the radius arm. I have no idea what's required to do that.

Also, since I didn't order them the first time round for the camber arms:
1x C-STR632 - Poly lower arm bush (4) (http://minispares.com/product/Classic/C-STR632.aspx)
2x 2A4362MS - Lower arm pin (http://minispares.com/product/classic/2A4362MS.aspx)

Alternator mount:
1x 12G2627 - Alternator adjustable bracket (http://minispares.com/product/Classic/12G2627.aspx)
1x 12G289 - Alternator bracket pillar (http://minispares.com/product/Classic/12G289.aspx)

I'm also having a hard time finding out how to drop the subframe. Would I just undo the front trunion and rear trunion mount bolts, disconnect the handbrake (how?), disconnect the rear brake lines (booo), and drop the exhaust? (easy).

There are already hi-lo's in there, and the trumpet looks fine, so I won't worry about replacing those.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on March 29, 2016, 09:30:59 AM
Also, for the rear drums, would it be worth getting some braided lines? I'm thinking either

http://www.minispares.com/product/classic/C-AJJ4031.aspx
or
http://www.minispares.com/product/classic/C-AJJ4031B.aspx
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on March 29, 2016, 09:59:40 AM
I thought the later radius arms had roller bearings, like the front upper control arms? Worst case, take your arms to a machine shop and have them press the bushings in and ream them - should be no biggy.

Also, the major parts places like MiniSpares and MiniSport sell rebuilt radius arms with everything already done.

Yes, that's pretty much it for dropping the rear subframe.

Replacing the rear brake hoses is always a good idea on an old/high mileage car.....braided hoses aren't really necessary for street driven cars but they look cool.

I learned my lesson the hard way on those front control arm bushes - buy the poly ones!

I hate to keep spending your money, but take a good hard look at your rear wheel cylinders while you're at it, it's about as cheap to buy new ones as rebuild the old ones. Check the brake adjusters too, they tend to get rusted up due to lack of use but you should be able to get some penetrating oil on them and get them loose if they are stuck.

You're experiencing "project creep" first hand!   ;D
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on March 29, 2016, 10:09:27 AM
Well, its a '96 with not too much rust underneath, so I've been fairly lucky, aside from the bushes drying out. The rear subframe kit is all poly bushes, same with the new ones for the lower control arms.

I'll pick up the full braided hose kit. If I'm going to bleed it, might as well do all 4 corners. What do you mean by the rear wheel cylinder?
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on March 29, 2016, 10:36:24 AM
The rear brake cylinders  - where the hoses attach.

http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Brakes/Front/GWC1102.aspx?0401&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/wheel

If the inner bushings on your radius arms aren't worn too badly you can just change the outer roller bearings and leave the bushes alone. Put the new shaft into the old bushing and see if it fits smoothly or is loose - that will tell you if they need changing.

The bit you circled in your pic is part of the dirt seal, it keeps the dirt out of the outer bearing and the grease in - it's not critical if you keep them greased and don't drive in a lot of water, but if you're going to pull the subframe anyway, "in for a penny" as they say....
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on March 29, 2016, 10:40:18 AM
Ah. Well, I'll hold out for now, since I had a local mini shop take a look, and apparently the rear brakes were fine. I'll worry about it when I'm replacing the pads in the drum.

Placed the order. Should be here late this week or early next week. I suppose I can drop and start tearing down the subframe in the meantime. Any tips or writeup on how to drop it?
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on March 29, 2016, 10:56:12 AM
There are several videos on You Tube but the camera work is so bad (cell phone cameras) that they're painful to watch - at least to me......here's one.




If the car isn't rusted badly, just give all the bolts a good spray of penetrating fluid and let them sit a few days, re-apply every day, then they should come out more easily. On Buzz, I had to back them out till they bound up, give them a spritz and run them back in again, then let it sit a few hours so the penetrant could work in a little farther and repeat the process - a LOT of times - till they finally came out undamaged. Once out I ran a tap thru the captive nuts to make sure the threads were clean of rust, then it went back together easily.

As on the subframe, if you break one of the captive nuts loose inside the heelboard you have a real mess - you'll have to cut out that chunk of metal and make up a new one and weld it in.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on March 29, 2016, 11:55:57 AM
Well, that's where it all started. I snapped one of the captive bolts for the camber plate.

Yeah, I've been subbed to him for a while, but when he goes under the car to disconnect everything, it's pretty much black under there.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on March 29, 2016, 12:19:34 PM
That's the poor camera work I was talking about, not only is it black but the camera jumps all around making it difficult to see what he's pointing at.....

Sometimes the best way to learn is just to jump in with both feet and go for it......
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on March 31, 2016, 05:49:25 AM
Got the lower balljoint on the left side done. Question, the old balljoints were packed/covered in grease or anti-seize, but I haven't found anything about repacking the new ones. Do I need to pack them with grease, or can I just use the zerk fittings and a grease gun, rather than pulling them apart?

Also crawled under the car to start the process for dropping the subframe:
To do for subframe drop:
Remove exhaust
Remove brake line (7/16 and 9/16 flare wrenches required)
Remove battery +
Remove handbrake cable (how to?)
Remove fuel filter
Unbolt shocks

I'm stuck on how to remove the handbrake lines. I thought if they were loose enough, I could disconnect them for the.. balancer? that sits at the end of the exhaust tunnel, but it doesn't look like it, and most of the line is covered by heat shielding. Should I be disconnecting it inside the car or something?
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on March 31, 2016, 08:34:59 AM
I thought you could loosen the adjustment and remove it from the join plate too.....why won't it come out?
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on March 31, 2016, 08:53:51 AM
Quote from: MiniDave on March 31, 2016, 08:34:59 AM
I thought you could loosen the adjustment and remove it from the join plate too.....why won't it come out?

No idea. There's no bolt to take the join plate apart, and the cable is covered inside the piece from what I can see. It looks like you have to thread the piece to the front of the car, and it covers the cable, so I need to disconnect it from the front, bring it all the way back and unthread it?
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MPlayle on March 31, 2016, 12:31:21 PM
I will be underneath "Flur" later this afternoon and see what I can determine from its arrangement.  I will also get pictures.  It should be close to what "Reggie" is as they are not that far apart in actual age.

Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on March 31, 2016, 12:42:28 PM
Quote from: MPlayle on March 31, 2016, 12:31:21 PM
I will be underneath "Flur" later this afternoon and see what I can determine from its arrangement.  I will also get pictures.  It should be close to what "Reggie" is as they are not that far apart in actual age.



That'd be fantastic, and very much appreciated! Thanks!
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MPlayle on March 31, 2016, 04:00:09 PM
Took two pictures of the link on mine:

(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2160)

(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2161)

As can been seen, the single cable (from the handle in the car) is NOT threaded.  The loop from the brakes is sandwiched between the rigid end of the handle cable and the joiner bracket.

It will indeed mean undoing the end of the single cable at the handle and pulling it back under the car and out of the bracket in order to separate the two sections.  The bracket and loop can then drop out with the subframe.

Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on April 01, 2016, 05:34:42 AM
Yeah, that's what I was afraid of. Mine looks identical. Appreciate it.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on April 05, 2016, 06:03:29 AM
Success! The subframe has been dropped, with minimum effort. And a lot of split gas. And brake fluid. I managed to remove one radius arm, but I'm having a hell of a time getting the other off. The snapped captive nut has been rounded by me, so I'll have to get in there with a dremel and go through a ton of discs. Then buy a replacement nut/bolt, and then have someone weld on a captive nut.

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1559/26225818256_85a095dd66_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FXub5h)
Gas tank (https://flic.kr/p/FXub5h) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1674/25646964574_ae9c28a0cd_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/F5kp3o)
Shock removed (https://flic.kr/p/F5kp3o) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1576/26225816436_6d172a1b90_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FXuawU)
Gasleak (https://flic.kr/p/FXuawU) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1673/25978882380_302d9d0701_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FzEyDb)
Subframe out (https://flic.kr/p/FzEyDb) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1579/26251736425_2be189e8c3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FZM1Dg)
Radius arm removed (https://flic.kr/p/FZM1Dg) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1572/26159300792_40804a73ca_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FRBfKs)
Radius arm removed2 (https://flic.kr/p/FRBfKs) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1615/26185452401_74bc231bff_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FTVhHg)
Rounded bolt (https://flic.kr/p/FTVhHg) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

Workspace is a little cramped (there's 2 more bikes in front of the Mini)

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1642/25978939060_bf6c973f43_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/FzERuq)
Full up (https://flic.kr/p/FzERuq) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on April 05, 2016, 04:27:58 PM
Now you've done it!

You won't be able to put that subframe back in till you've completely disassembled it, powder coated the frame, repainted all the other parts, fixed the loose nut etc, etc ,etc!   ;D

These things do tend to snowball!

Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on April 06, 2016, 06:20:47 AM
Hah. I'm not sure about that. New parts came in, so I managed to get the front left all put back together, including the new brake line. I went to go put some grease into the balljoints, but someone stole the flex line from my grease gun while it was on the shelf at the store, and I didn't notice. Next up is the other front wheel. It took a while getting those offset bushes lined up, but it should be worth it.

Also got the new bracket for the alternator. I just need some spacers for the top, and the compressor can come out.

As for the subframe, I'm just planning on using a drill-wire brush attachment, doing a quick primer and paint, and rebuilding it. I'll need to use a shop to ream the new bushes from the trailing arm rebuild kit, but otherwise, I can't see it taking overly long to put back together.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on April 06, 2016, 08:28:55 AM
Remember not to tighten those lower control arm bushing shafts till it's down on the wheels and settled.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on April 06, 2016, 10:20:51 AM
Quote from: MiniDave on April 06, 2016, 08:28:55 AM
Remember not to tighten those lower control arm bushing shafts till it's down on the wheels and settled.

*quietly loosens nut*
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on April 06, 2016, 06:11:24 PM
Backed off the LCA bolts as per Minidave.

Got the drivers side (right hand) done today. I couldn't do the brake line, as it's not the same as the other side, on top of the frame it's a Y-fitting, that I can't seem to get to. Since I removed the A/C fan, I could dremel out part of the wing to get access to it, but without any POR15 or anything to rust proof the cut, I'm loathe to do it. I'd also rather know what the Y-fitting is for.

Also, I really really hope I'm doing the shims in the balljoint properly. I'm mostly doing it by feel (shove a few shims in, tighten it down, see if it's too loose/tight, remove, repeat as necessary).

It's hilarious how after spending 2-3 nights working on the other side, I managed to do both balljoints, the LCA, and the shock in under 2 hours. I have spare knuckles, but I don't want to touch that part of the suspension yet.

I also noticed that on the right hand side (drivers) I'll need to replace the tie rod end soon, as it's torn, and I'll need to replace the gator on the left hand side of the steering rack, as it's torn as well. Next order I suppose.

I haven't moved to the rear subframe again yet, since I'm deciding whether I should try a nut-cracker or just dremel the bolt off, and find a replacement nut. Does anyone happen to know the threading of the bolt?
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: 94touring on April 06, 2016, 06:15:56 PM
5/16-24 on subby bolts. 
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on April 06, 2016, 06:20:28 PM
Is that the thread pitch? Sorry, I'm used to imperial (ex: M8x1.25)
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: 94touring on April 06, 2016, 06:27:51 PM
Yep.  That's what they'll say. 
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on April 06, 2016, 06:29:26 PM
Awesome, thanks!
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on April 06, 2016, 09:21:02 PM
On the ball joint shims, the official spec is if you can move it with a bare hand it's too loose, if you can just move it with a gloved hand, it's just right.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MPlayle on April 06, 2016, 09:43:17 PM
If the 'Y' fitting is flat on the right side of the subframe where the flex line from the right brake is, then one branch of the 'Y' fitting is the feed in from the master cylinder, the 'base' of the 'Y' is the drop out to the right hand front brake, the out on the remaining branch is the feed across the front subframe to the left hand front brake.

Does it look similar to this:
http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Brakes/Front/21A654.aspx?0401&ReturnUrl=/shop/classic/Brakes/Front.aspx|Back%20to%20shop (http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Brakes/Front/21A654.aspx?0401&ReturnUrl=/shop/classic/Brakes/Front.aspx%7CBack%20to%20shop)

(Note: diagrams showing where the part is used are shown lower down that same page.)

Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on April 07, 2016, 05:59:16 AM
Quote from: MPlayle on April 06, 2016, 09:43:17 PM
If the 'Y' fitting is flat on the right side of the subframe where the flex line from the right brake is, then one branch of the 'Y' fitting is the feed in from the master cylinder, the 'base' of the 'Y' is the drop out to the right hand front brake, the out on the remaining branch is the feed across the front subframe to the left hand front brake.

Does it look similar to this:
http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Brakes/Front/21A654.aspx?0401&ReturnUrl=/shop/classic/Brakes/Front.aspx|Back%20to%20shop (http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Brakes/Front/21A654.aspx?0401&ReturnUrl=/shop/classic/Brakes/Front.aspx%7CBack%20to%20shop)

(Note: diagrams showing where the part is used are shown lower down that same page.)



That's the exact one! I'm just having a hell of a time getting decent access to it.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on April 07, 2016, 01:29:16 PM
#smallgarageproblems

(https://scontent-sea1-1.cdninstagram.com/t51.2885-15/e35/12930725_1708597909415142_499554483_n.jpg)
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on April 23, 2016, 08:32:43 PM
Sometimes. I hate this car. How the hell do you take the old radius arm bearing and copper bush out? How do I ream the new copper bush? The lack of instructions drives me nuts.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on June 28, 2016, 05:59:25 AM
Quote from: MPlayle on March 23, 2016, 07:58:50 AM
I don't know about the questions for the pulley alignment in your other thread.  I can answer the bracket question here.

The odd 'L' shaped bracket holds the back of the alternator.  The two bolt holes on the same side are where the bracket mounts to the motor with the single hole pointing up for the back of the alternator.  The top front of the alternator is held by the "ear" of the water pump.

The two top mounts of the alternator make the pivot axis for tightening the belt.

The curved/slotted piece is the slide mount for the lower front of the alternator.  That piece is mounted to the engine by the single hole.  It usually is mounted to curve up and the alternator bolt slides in the slot.

Without the a/c, the alternator sits a bit lower behind the grill.  There are also usually some spacers with the top mounts to move the alternator towards the radiator.  See the attached picture from one of my past Minis.  I labeled the 'L' bracket  position and the spacers.



So I finally decided to pull the compressor, and I ran into some issues. I have this huge black piece that's bolted to the engine, that includes the belt tensioner and it stopping the alternator from lining up. Do I need to remove this thing?

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7690/27856588272_60aeb2f271_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JrAibG)
2016-06-27 20.20.05 (https://flic.kr/p/JrAibG) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

(https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7593/27345892364_b5bc2ea536_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HEsR5Q)
2016-06-27 20.22.26 (https://flic.kr/p/HEsR5Q) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

(https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7668/27856583862_a8c9ab251a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JrAgSE)
2016-06-27 20.22.32 (https://flic.kr/p/JrAgSE) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MPlayle on June 28, 2016, 11:15:15 AM
If you are removing the a/c system completely, that black brace under the rear mount for the alternator also gets removed.  The rear mount for the alternator then bolts back into that same position and should then line up properly.

Save the black brace as it is hard to come by and anyone adding a/c to their Mini will need it.

Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on June 29, 2016, 05:28:08 AM
So I did that, and it hangs much better, but it looks like my pulley is either way too long, or too short, depending which way I hang it.

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7113/27876719192_028a877837_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Jtntpw)
2016-06-28 19.46.58 (https://flic.kr/p/Jtntpw) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

(https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7365/27978531735_7890576e02_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JCnhJc)
2016-06-28 19.47.56 (https://flic.kr/p/JCnhJc) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on July 02, 2016, 11:52:32 AM
Anyone?
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on July 02, 2016, 12:00:12 PM
I agree you need a different pulley.....
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: 94touring on July 02, 2016, 01:20:14 PM
Yah different pulley. 
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: jeff10049 on July 02, 2016, 01:49:27 PM
mounted like the first pic can you cut some off the back of that pully shank and slide it back? then just use the cut off piece under the nut as a spacer?
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on July 02, 2016, 02:05:08 PM
Anyone know where I can get a different one? I'd have to cut + re-weld this one, and I'm worried about it spinning at 5000rpm
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on July 02, 2016, 03:05:45 PM
What Jeff said /\
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: John Gervais on July 02, 2016, 05:35:00 PM
MiniSpares has 4 different alternator pulleys, 3 of which are in stock.

http://minispares.com/product/Classic/Cooling_heating/12A34.aspx?07&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/pulley.aspx|Back%20to%20search (http://minispares.com/product/Classic/Cooling_heating/12A34.aspx?07&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/pulley.aspx%7CBack%20to%20search)

http://minispares.com/product/Classic/Electrics/Alternators/C-AEA535.aspx?0902&ReturnUrl=/shop/classic/Electrics/Alternators.aspx|Back%20to%20shop (http://minispares.com/product/Classic/Electrics/Alternators/C-AEA535.aspx?0902&ReturnUrl=/shop/classic/Electrics/Alternators.aspx%7CBack%20to%20shop)

http://minispares.com/product/Classic/Cooling_heating/12A1772.aspx?07&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/pulley.aspx|Back%20to%20search (http://minispares.com/product/Classic/Cooling_heating/12A1772.aspx?07&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/pulley.aspx%7CBack%20to%20search)

http://minispares.com/product/Classic/Cooling_heating/12G2102.aspx?07&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/pulley.aspx|Back%20to%20search (http://minispares.com/product/Classic/Cooling_heating/12G2102.aspx?07&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/pulley.aspx%7CBack%20to%20search)


Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on July 02, 2016, 07:19:28 PM
Or here in the US.....

http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/sm/full.aspx?Page=111 (http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/sm/full.aspx?Page=111)

or here....  http://www.minimania.com/part/12G1054/Austin-Mini-Alternator-Pulley (http://www.minimania.com/part/12G1054/Austin-Mini-Alternator-Pulley)

Same thing here for $50 less....  http://www.7ent.com/products/generator-pulley-2-75-12g1054.html (http://www.7ent.com/products/generator-pulley-2-75-12g1054.html)
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MPlayle on July 02, 2016, 09:01:58 PM
Sorry, I got tied up with ongoing family medical issues and just got back to this thread.

As others have stated, a different pulley will be needed.  You need the one without the long shaft spacer.  You might check out whether the pulley you have can be milled to shorten the spacer portion and still secure in place properly.

Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: jeff10049 on July 02, 2016, 09:57:11 PM
Quote from: LilDrunkenSmurf on July 02, 2016, 02:05:08 PM
Anyone know where I can get a different one? I'd have to cut + re-weld this one, and I'm worried about it spinning at 5000rpm

Why weld? just cut off the back spacer part amount needed and move it to the front side the nut will clamp it all down. don't really even need a key in it if it affects that.
5k+ is no problem it wont hurt a thing.  Just make sure how ever you cut it its reasonably square or face it in lathe after, or file, or belt sand. Could of had er done in the time I typed this.

I will look at a 1275 I have tomorrow and see if it has what you need if you don't want to cut yours (just do it) I'll send it for cost of shipping cant remember if it has the alt on it right now.

Jeff




Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on July 03, 2016, 05:38:02 PM
Will post pics shortly.

15mm diameter shaft, no keyhole, 11mm belt, 61mm diameter pulley.

Very deep.

(https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7213/27789255130_8cce57eaff_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JkDcos)
2016-07-03 18.30.33 (https://flic.kr/p/JkDcos) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

(https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7301/27789255930_259967ff50_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JkDcCf)
2016-07-03 18.30.41 (https://flic.kr/p/JkDcCf) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

(https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7248/28069801165_fde9ac3d04_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JLr4X4)
2016-07-03 18.30.36 (https://flic.kr/p/JLr4X4) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

Not sure which pulley would be comparable, as they all seem to be much larger.

I'm leaning more towards this one:
http://minispares.com/product/Classic/Cooling_heating/12A34.aspx?07&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/pulley.aspx|Back%20to%20search
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MPlayle on July 03, 2016, 06:40:28 PM
You won't be able to shorten the "shank" of that one.  For the replacement, carefully measure the shaft of the alternator as the page you linked indicates two different shaft sizes (15mm and 18mm).  Otherwise, the one you linked should work.

Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: jeff10049 on July 03, 2016, 10:48:51 PM
yep I see now, I do have one would you like it? I need to pull it and check shaft size.

Jeff
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on July 04, 2016, 06:13:02 AM
So first this happened

(https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7594/27466151323_846a550760_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HR6cTa)
2016-07-01 16.32.57 (https://flic.kr/p/HR6cTa) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

Then this happened

(https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7437/27466156363_5bcf7c41a5_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/HR6eo4)
2016-07-02 12.50.51 (https://flic.kr/p/HR6eo4) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

And now we're here:

(https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7515/27799973010_9083a6987e_z.jpg)
(https://flic.kr/p/JmA8ru)2016-07-03 16.10.02 (https://flic.kr/p/JmA8ru) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

Just need to reinstall the e-brake line and it's ready to go back into the car. Unfortunately, (or fortunately due to the falling GBP), I had to order some extra items. I needed new cotter pins, and I lost one of the clevis pins for one of the ebrake mounts. I also opted to get proper sized knuckles for the rear, since the new ones I was going to use have a built in spacer.

I also ordered a new alternator pulley, new tie rod ends, new steering rack gators, and upper arm repair kit for the fronts, 2x gearbox mounts), and a new rad cap. Once they arrive, I can finish the ebrake line on the subframe, and hoist it back into the car. Ideally this resolves my alternator issue as well, and that can get put back together as well.

Not sure if I'll tackle rebuilding the fronts, since they're already all together from installing the camber arms, but we'll see. I'm 50/50, and I do want to replace the steering gators and tie rod ends for sure, as they're toast.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on July 04, 2016, 08:00:10 AM
What's that muffler off of, the one next to the mower in the last pic, or is that just a garbage can?   ;D

Just go ahead and do the fronts while you're at it, then it's all done and you can drive it with a fair amount of confidence.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on July 04, 2016, 09:40:28 AM
Quote from: MiniDave on July 04, 2016, 08:00:10 AM
What's that muffler off of, the one next to the mower in the last pic, or is that just a garbage can?   ;D

Just go ahead and do the fronts while you're at it, then it's all done and you can drive it with a fair amount of confidence.

Stock s2000 AP2 exhaust. I kept it around after I installed an aftermarket one.

I'm leaning more towards rebuilding the upper arms, just because all the seals are as destroyed as the rears were. I'm just hoping it's not a huge pain. I almost bit off more than I could chew with the rears, so I'm slightly worried about the fronts.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on July 04, 2016, 09:58:44 AM
The only thing tough about those uppers is if you have to change the little needle bearings, you'll have to make a tool to drive them out. I just took a big bolt and rounded one side of the head to match the ID of the arm, then you  can knock them out, going back in is easy. To get the old ones out you have to go over a step inside the arm - you can't just use a normal drift, hence the tool.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on July 04, 2016, 12:16:57 PM
So now I'm far less confident I can do it. Damnit, this is exactly why I had a shop rebuild the radius arms for me. What's the tool to pull the needle bearings?
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on July 04, 2016, 12:51:12 PM
I took a 1/2" bolt 6" long, ground one side of the bolt head to a curve on my bench grinder, then used it to drive out the needle bearing/race. It wasn't that hard.......

the race looks like this, and you have to use the bolt head to catch the edge of the race and knock it out.....

(http://cdn1.bigcommerce.com/server5600/79cdd/products/631/images/1992/88G0302__77767.1293044336.1280.1280.jpg?c=2)
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on July 04, 2016, 01:34:54 PM
Have a picture of what the bolt looks like post-grinding? I've looked up a few methods of doing it, and of my my favorites so far is taking a M10 bolt, and welding it to the race, then using a 30mm socket, some washers and a nut to pull it out slowly. I'll have to abuse a friendship to make it happen, but that's my easiest method right now due to lack of tools (like a bench grinder).
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on July 04, 2016, 02:56:29 PM
Do you have a bench vise?

Where are you and I'll mail you the bolt I used, how's that?
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: John Gervais on July 04, 2016, 04:00:04 PM
I didn't want to damage the upper arm bores, so I 'mushroomed' the end of a brass drift, filed it somewhat 'neat' and used that to drive the needle bearings from the upper arms.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on July 04, 2016, 06:32:33 PM
Same concept.....I didn't find any damage after I tapped mine out. However, brass is a good idea, can't damage the bores even if you get carried away with the hammering!

I just used what I had lying about.....I have two different bolts, between doing the left and right sides I managed to misplace my special drift and had to make another one!  8.gif ;D
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on July 07, 2016, 07:59:10 PM
Managed to finally install the last brake line on the RH side. Also pulled the upper arms on both sides, as well as the tie-rod ends. I'll have to remove the gators, but I don't want to do that until the new ones arrive.

Also, decided what to do with the wheels. I was originally just going to clean them up and re-clear them, but I'm going to get them powdercoated a brand new colour.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on July 07, 2016, 08:26:20 PM
As long as the shafts don't look like this you can probably just clean those bearings up and reuse them.....but if they look like this you need to replace the bearings and the shafts......if you need my custom "tools", just send me a PM with your address and I'll put them in the mail to you.

Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on July 08, 2016, 08:21:48 AM
I already ordered the rebuild kits. I might as well use them at this point.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on July 12, 2016, 06:06:49 PM
Broke a bit on the tank today.

WLV10007 which is NLA.

#27

http://minispares.com/catalogues/classic/Classic~Mechanical~Parts~Manual/Fuel~~Exhaust/Fuel~Tanks~and~Pumps.aspx?2~18~176

Anyone know where I can get a replacement, or how to delete or bypass?
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on July 12, 2016, 06:34:36 PM
I think I have one - if so I'll sell it for a reasonable amount.....
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on July 12, 2016, 08:36:55 PM
What is it? Can I substitute or bypass it somehow?
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on July 12, 2016, 09:02:04 PM
Description is shut off valve.....I would think you can simply bypass it......
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MPlayle on July 13, 2016, 08:29:14 AM
It is on the vapor vent of the tank.  I think it is more of a "fuel trap" for fuel condensation to go back into the tank instead of forward to the charcoal canister.

Unfortunately, I disposed of the one that came off my Blue Mini when I did the carb conversion.

Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on July 13, 2016, 08:54:33 AM
It probably should be there then.......to keep liquid fuel out of the charcoal canister - that's an important function.......as long as you're still using that system.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on July 13, 2016, 08:55:15 AM
Where is the charcoal canister located? As far as I can tell, one side is hooked up to a 3rd fuel line that goes to the engine bay, whereas the other side dumps into the fuel tank directly.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on July 13, 2016, 09:38:12 AM
It's usually under one of the front fenders - right side IIRC, then a hose from the canister should go to the intake - usually into the air filter box.....to draw off the fumes. This is an emissions device, it collect fumes from the fuel tank so they don't go into the atmosphere and burns them when the engine runs, that's why you don't want liquid fuel going into
the canister.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MPlayle on July 13, 2016, 03:18:29 PM
The charcoal canister on mine was under the radiator side fender.

The line from the trap at the tank runs under the car to the front and transitions to another stiff plastic line going through the fender to the canister.  There is then a line from the canister back through the fender to a "purge" valve with an electrical connection and then from the "purge" valve to the intake.

Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on July 13, 2016, 03:32:26 PM
There you go.....

Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on July 13, 2016, 08:28:52 PM
Got some more work done today. Put the rear end all back together. Brake lines, battery cable, fuel lines are all hooked up, along with a new fuel filter. Exhaust is also bolted up. E-brake is also hooked up. I haven't reinstalled the drivers seat yet in case I need to adjust the e-brake handle. I also need to install the drop collar for the steering bracket. I just haven't put the tank back into place, due to the snapped vent cut off.

(https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8715/28262712126_f3bbf2ca27_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K4tME7)
2016-07-13 19.32.02 (https://flic.kr/p/K4tME7) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

(https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8689/28296646695_d6af2f9f27_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K7tHdT)
2016-07-13 19.31.58 (https://flic.kr/p/K7tHdT) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

Got the alternator installed. The pillar bolt I originally bought wouldn't thread directly into the alternator, so I used a bolt and made my own spacer using a bigger bolt with a flat washer.

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7472/28296650985_6b023c13f1_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K7tJuR)
2016-07-13 19.31.21 (https://flic.kr/p/K7tJuR) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

(https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8889/28262710066_a5e2bf1687_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K4tM3A)
2016-07-13 19.31.29 (https://flic.kr/p/K4tM3A) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

Also installed the new gator boot on the left hand side, as well as the tie rod ends on both sides.

(https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7542/28262706746_2bfcc408e1_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K4tL4m)
2016-07-13 19.31.50 (https://flic.kr/p/K4tL4m) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

I also noticed the valve cover gasket is leaking, so I'm looking for a replacement. I'm just not sure if it's the 9 stud of 11 stud one I need.

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8867/28296648545_948aeb2794_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K7tHLM)
2016-07-13 19.31.44 (https://flic.kr/p/K7tHLM) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

(https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8576/28296649435_f05c268d49_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/K7tJ38)
2016-07-13 19.31.37 (https://flic.kr/p/K7tJ38) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

MiniDave, I'll PM you re: the vent.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on July 13, 2016, 09:17:40 PM
I think the valve cover gaskets are all the same.....if you don't have Mini parts nearby, the Sprite/MG midget is also the same. I'm sure I have an extra valve cover gasket too, if I'm sending you anything I can add that into the package...

I'll go dig around in my parts stash and make sure I still have it, I'm almost positive I do.....
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on July 14, 2016, 05:47:28 AM
I'm just looking at Minimania, and they have a different part number for a non-S and S gasket (9 stud vs 11 stud).

Was also thinking of going silicon over cork.

9 stud silicon vs 11 stud
http://minispares.com/product/Classic/GUG5038EVO.aspx
http://minispares.com/product/Classic/GUG705009EVO.aspx

Also looking at getting these:
http://minispares.com/product/Classic/SAC71L.aspx
http://minispares.com/product/Classic/12A1358MS.aspx

And new bump stops, since mine are mildly disintegrating.
http://minispares.com/product/Classic/2A4267MS.aspx

I wasn't planning on making another order so soon, but I have a friend who just picked up a twin to my car, and he's looking at placing an order, so I can piggy back off him, but if you have one Dave, that'd be awesome.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on July 14, 2016, 10:49:43 AM
The only difference in the gaskets is the little cutouts for the extra two studs, the gasket is the same - if you have the 11 stud head you should buy the right one rather than cut out the notches.

I've used the cork ones with no issues, I glue it securely to the valve cover, the coat the surface that contacts the head with grease, then it comes off easily again when I need to adjust the valves.....never had one leak either. The silicon ones work well, just a lot of money. The main thing is not to overtighten them.....
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on July 14, 2016, 10:51:15 AM
I'll pop off the cover when I get home, see which it is.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on July 14, 2016, 10:53:08 AM
You don't need to pop the cover, if you have a 3/8 nut (9/16 or 14mm wrench) on either end outside the valve cover it's the 11 stud, if you don't it's the 9 stud.

Or post a pic, we can tell you which it is.....
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MPlayle on July 14, 2016, 11:32:22 AM
Pictures are indeed posted.  Also being one of the fuel injected systems, it is the 9-stud head.  When I replaced the one on my blue Mini, I did what Dave recommends and used gasket sealer to attach it to the cover and a thin film of grease on the head mating side.

The "cross reference" to see if your local parts store has the valve cover gasket, ask about the gasket for a 1973 MG Midget (1275cc).

Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on July 14, 2016, 11:47:27 AM
Yep, sorry I didn't scroll up to see the pics - 9 stud head.

See if this looks like the right part.....

Do you need the bolt tools to drift out the bearings still?
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on July 14, 2016, 12:12:20 PM
9 stud? Even though I'm fairly sure it's an S? I'll double check the head.

Quote1991–96 Mini Cooper S 1.3i, 77 hp (57 kW) at 5800 rpm and 80 lb·ft (110 N·m) at 3000 rpm
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMC_A-Series_engine#1275_Plus

Yes, that's absolutely the right part I need. Also, I'm going to try the "filed down washer" method tonight, so I shouldn't need the parts anymore to get the bearings out. I need to pick up some brake fluid and some clear tubing to bleed the brakes anyways.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on July 14, 2016, 12:42:45 PM
Only the MK1 Cooper S came from the factory with an 11 stud head, the later cars did not have that...... many have added the additional studs when doing a rebuild tho....
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on July 15, 2016, 02:58:34 PM
Didn't realise reinstalling the upper control arms meant pulling out the cone compressor. Glad I bought it on a whim. Had to borrow the 1-5/16" socket from a neighbour, and I managed to tear one of my brand new dust seals. I also used this as an opportunity to throw new cones into the front, since my old ones were flat pancakes.

After replacing the cone, is it normal to have almost no play? Even with the hilo's bottomed out, the arm just doesn't move once I got the trumpet/knuckle into the cone. I had a hell of a time getting the lower bump stop back in. But that's one more corner down, and one to go.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MPlayle on July 15, 2016, 04:13:18 PM
Until the new rubber cone settles some there will be very little "play" in the front arms.  It will also look as though on its tip-toes once back on the ground.  They will settle and then the hi-los come into play for getting the desired ride height.

Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on July 17, 2016, 02:00:19 PM
He lives!

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8891/28340093536_559eb7b897_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Kbjosm)
2016-07-16 21.30.25 (https://flic.kr/p/Kbjosm) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

The front has so much rake. It needs a good alignment to dial it all in, and the first time I tried to drive away, I found out the LH axle has separated inside the boot. I popped it out and fixed it, and it drove like a top. So excited.

Of note, since I had to use the cone compressor anyways to get the upper arm back in, I opted to drop in a set of "slightly used" cones that Hunter Classic cars threw into a previous order for me.
I also greased all the things. Hilos, front and rear, upper arms, ball joints, radius arms. Did a full brake bleed. Had to get new crush washers for the banjo bolt, since it was just spitting out fluid every time we pressed the brake pedal.

(https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8573/27757874263_36d070cac2_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/JhSmX2)
2016-07-16 12.01.18 (https://flic.kr/p/JhSmX2) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

Yep.

I also managed to strip one of the trunk hinges, so I'll need to order a new one. I don't like the chrome ones on MiniSpares, so I'll be ordering a metal one and painting it myself.

MiniDave shipped me the fuel tank thingy, but for the meantime, I bypassed it with some fuel line.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: 94touring on July 17, 2016, 02:15:15 PM
Damn that's one flat cone!
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on July 17, 2016, 02:25:42 PM
It was a hell of a fight to get it out. When I had the car in a local mini shop last  year, they told me cones were fine.

But it rides so much more comfortably now. Rebuilt radius arms, new rear subframe bushings, new knuckles all the way around, rebuilt upper control arms, new shocks all the way around, newer cones up front... A+.

Now I just need to get the wheels powdercoated.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: Willie_B on July 17, 2016, 04:08:33 PM
Looking good. Driving time........
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on July 21, 2016, 07:14:42 AM
Driven it around the last few days. It's been fantastic. The ride is so much better. Next, I need to even out the height... Each corner is different (centercap to fender) ranging from 11.75" to 10".

Also, finally figured out what wheels are on the car. They're Cosmic MKII 12x5 wheels (or reproductions), which I'll be sandblasting and refinishing/powdercoating.

Also huge thanks to Minidave for the vent/purge valve thing. I just need to get the joints/fittings into the weird hard plastic lines, and it'll be ready to go on.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on July 21, 2016, 08:43:28 AM
Heat them with a hairdryer first to soften them......
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: flipstah on July 21, 2016, 09:16:01 AM
Hi twin.  71.gif
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on July 21, 2016, 09:56:54 AM
Quote from: MiniDave on July 21, 2016, 08:43:28 AM
Heat them with a hairdryer first to soften them......

I was using a heat gun, but the wife interrupted me, so I put it off for another day.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on August 05, 2016, 04:50:17 PM
So I tried to install the cork gasket MiniDave sent me, but it almost looks too small for the valve cover. I tried to keep it in place using rtv but it looks like it slipped put of place on the back left side of the cover and it's leaking oil quite badly. Is the gasket too small? Am I doing it wrong? There doesn't seem to be any tricks to it.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on August 05, 2016, 05:29:25 PM
Maybe it was an old gasket and it shrunk, I'll send you a new one tomorrow - they're cheap as can be down here......I can just put it in an envelope....

Do you have a tin cover or aluminum one? I glue it to the cover first, let the glue set up by laying something heavy on top of the cover and have the gasket on something smooth and flat, then grease the bottom of the gasket (cylinder head side) before I put it on the car....
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on August 06, 2016, 11:08:33 AM
I'm not sure which one it is. Is there a way to tell? Looks like the stock one to me. I'm going to call the local shop when they open on monday, see if they have a spare lying around I can pick up.

Also, what kind of grease? I saw someone else post about it as well on TMF, but they never specified what kind of grease.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on August 06, 2016, 11:55:31 AM
You have the standard tin valve cover (I went back in your thread till I found an engine pic) the covers are all the same..... Sometimes the old cork gaskets can shrink over time as they dry out.....if you prefer I can get you one of the new silicone gaskets but they're a bit spendy - about $15 IIRC, but it won't leak and you'll never have to replace it - your call. They have them in stock at my local Brit Parts place and it's easy to mail it up.

On the cork gaskets I just use any old grease, doesn't really matter what kind, it's just so the gasket doesn't stick to the head. I probably wouldn't use CV joint grease with moly in it, but I'm not sure even that matters.

Edit: Just checked Vicky Brits, they have the silicone gaskets for $12 US.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on August 06, 2016, 12:42:55 PM
I'll check with my local shop first. I have to run around anyways. I thought I was going to throw a silicon one in with flipstah's order, but I must've taken it out at sometime. My biggest issue with them is they're open 9-5, Mon-Fri. You know, when I'm at work.

Oh yeah, got the Cosmic MKII's back from powdercoating. I like.

(https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8849/28731941861_75a1b9680c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/KLWHiX)
2016-08-04 18.30.02 (https://flic.kr/p/KLWHiX) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

Now if only I could get the front cones to settle so I'm not pointed at the sky.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: flipstah on August 09, 2016, 09:52:32 AM
Mmmm minty fresh.  4.gif
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on August 11, 2016, 05:40:12 AM
Picked up a new gasket from the local mini-shop. Ended up costing $4.95 CAD, but it was fresh, and fit much much better. Put it on last night with some black RTV and I'm letting it sit until tonight. Also cleaned out all the bottles in the backseat (do I really need to carry 12L of oil?) and removed the "alt cover" that was zip tied to the rad support, since the alternator sits much lower now.

Car looks good, but it definitely needs a respray as most of the clearcoat is flaking off the front end. Also, he's still pointing his nose at the sky, like the snooty brit he is.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on August 11, 2016, 08:44:36 AM
Sorry about that, did you get the tank valve installed OK? You were having trouble with the tubes.....
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on August 11, 2016, 09:26:08 AM
Quote from: MiniDave on August 11, 2016, 08:44:36 AM
Sorry about that, did you get the tank valve installed OK? You were having trouble with the tubes.....

They're not "in" all the way.. the hardlines weren't cooperating, but they're in, and there's no more fuel smell. if they act up, I'll pick up some rubber lines and replace them anyways.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: flipstah on August 11, 2016, 01:53:35 PM
I'm also getting mine resprayed. Maybe we can get two-for-one.

It's like one car.  :D
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on August 13, 2016, 06:53:20 PM
Washed the car today. Did a light spray under the hood while crossing my finger. Car started fine and drove home. After taking the key out, I could hear a relay non stop going "click.... click... click...", but everything worked, no lights were on, and if you put the key to "on" the relay would stop.

Tracked it down to the signal relay, and after unplugging and plugging it back in a few times, it stopped clicking while the car was off. Something I'll ideally be replacing in the short future.

Front cones are still too damn high, and makes the car look like it's pointing at the sky.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MPlayle on August 13, 2016, 07:06:35 PM
If the new cones are of the beter quality, they take longer to settle (they also last longer).  Did you also install hi-lo's?  If so, adjust them to lower the front slightly and raise the rear.  It may mean a few weeks of having the car look a bit like it is on tip-toe, but will be more level until the cones start to settle.  Then you re-adjust the hi-lo's to get the ride aspect desired.

Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on August 16, 2016, 08:28:30 AM
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8602/28938225281_46dbe39e2c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/L6aYbD)
IMG_0039 (https://flic.kr/p/L6aYbD) by Richard Brown (https://www.flickr.com/photos/130531646@N07/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MPlayle on August 16, 2016, 11:03:00 AM
From the looks, the rear could use just a slight increase in height and the fronts need a bit more drop.

Do you have a full set of hi-lo's on it?

If so, I would suggest raising the rear 1 full turn (6 flats) of the nut (to lengthen the struts) and lower the front about 1/2 to 1 turn (3 flats to 6 flats).  Be sure to change both sides (left/right) equally.

The front/rear ratios are different and I forget which is which - one is a 1:3 ratio and the other is a 1:5 ratio.  You will not necessarily adjust the fronts the same as the rears.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on August 16, 2016, 11:35:04 AM
Full hi-lo's.

The fronts are completely bottomed out. Cannot go lower. The rear is where I wish all 4 corners were.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MPlayle on August 16, 2016, 11:49:57 AM
That is quite high for bottomed hi-lo's.  The last one I did was not that high.  It is almost like there is something extra in the mix adding length where it should not.

There are no extra washers in there?  No "doubled" cup for the knuckle joint?

I would still recommend raising the rear slightly to give a slightly more leveled stance and hopefully, the front cones will start settling soon.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on August 16, 2016, 11:59:11 AM
No extra washer, but I did use this knuckle:
http://minispares.com/product/classic/GSV1264.aspx
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MPlayle on August 16, 2016, 12:56:02 PM
It may be that extra thick shoulder on the knuckle shaft is adding just enough additional length to raise the car.

A bit of "grasping at straws" here:
I know it may sound "stupid", but did you get all of the old plastic cup cleaned out before putting the new knuckle into the suspension arm?  (Extra debris under the cup will also raise it.)

The only other thing I can think of would be if the cones were not seating into the subframe correctly at the top.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on August 16, 2016, 01:04:29 PM
Quote from: MPlayle on August 16, 2016, 12:56:02 PM
It may be that extra thick shoulder on the knuckle shaft is adding just enough additional length to raise the car.

A bit of "grasping at straws" here:
I know it may sound "stupid", but did you get all of the old plastic cup cleaned out before putting the new knuckle into the suspension arm?  (Extra debris under the cup will also raise it.)

The only other thing I can think of would be if the cones were not seating into the subframe correctly at the top.


Yeah, it's all cleaned out. That was a very frustrating struggle. I've always thought it could potentially be the cones not sitting properly, but I didn't know how to actually check. I stuck my hands up there while putting the cones in, and it "seemed" to be sitting properly, but I have no idea how to actually check. It made putting the upper arms in terrible difficult.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MPlayle on August 16, 2016, 02:25:07 PM
Usually, when you put the new cones into the subframe they will only be level if they are sitting correctly on the "seat" of the frame tower.  I would then use the compressor tool to hold them in place and even compress them some to give more room for getting the hi-lo, knuckle joint, and upper arm back in properly.  I tended to put the arm in first, then the hi-lo and knuckle as a single unit.  I would then back off the compression of the cone to release tension, but leave the tool attached to still hold things in place while adjusting the hi-lo.  I have usually had to use a couple of threads on the hi-lo - not completely adjusted in (bottomed out).

Yours is certainly confusing as to why it seems to be staying so high.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on August 17, 2016, 05:58:40 AM
Even compressed, I had to put the knuckle/hi-lo in while already attached to the upper arm. There was literally no room to work.

I could rip it apart, but I feel like it'd be repeating work at this point. Also taking the upper arm out is a huge pain.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MPlayle on August 17, 2016, 01:25:36 PM
In reading some threads on another forum, there was a link to a part reference that just happened to show a selection of different knuckle joints as the "parts of other interest".

There is a big difference in the thickness of the shoulder on the knuckle joint listed as for "1990 and on" - it is about 3 times as thick as the shoulder for the knuckles listed for earlier Minis!  (Visually, it looks to be about a difference of 1/8".)

Depending on the ratio, that translates to either 3/8" or 5/8" in ride height.

Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on August 17, 2016, 06:04:07 PM
Yeah, that's one of the ones I ordered, that had the build in washer.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MPlayle on August 17, 2016, 07:01:23 PM
I am at a loss as to what to recommend that will not entail taking it all apart again.

I did find the Keith Calver article on Mini Mania that contains the basic height adjust ratios: http://www.minimania.com/SUSPENSION___Lowering_the_standard_dry_set_up (http://www.minimania.com/SUSPENSION___Lowering_the_standard_dry_set_up)

The front is the 3:1 and the rear is the 5:1.

Depending on how much thicker the built in washer is over the other style, it will result in a 3x increase in ride height.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on August 18, 2016, 05:31:41 AM
It's all good. I picked up those "newer" knuckles over a year ago, so they've been sitting around unused for a while. Worst case, I jack up the rear, and when I take it all apart in a year or so again, I'll put in normal knuckles. I didn't put 2 and 2 together that since I had adjustable hi-los, I didn't really need the higher knuckle.

I think my biggest concern with lifting the back up (other than not living that low life), is how close to the front of the subframe the tire will be.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MPlayle on August 18, 2016, 07:24:49 AM
Because of the arc of the rear swing arms, the tires do not get any closer to the subframe.

Rubbing issues at the swing arm mounts on the rear subframe are almost always from the tire size being too tall (or the rare case of badly damaged/bent components).


Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on September 15, 2016, 05:50:17 AM
Took the car to the gym yesterday morning after dropping the GTI off for some hail repair. Noticed an odd shake in the wheel, like a wheel was loose. Checked all the lugs when I got home, and everything was solid, so I pushed the wheels a bit, and found a small clunk from the front left (RHD passenger side, or LHD drivers side).

Popped the wheel off, everything looked solid, checked the balljoints, camber arm, upper arm, toe link, etc. I'm thinking it might be the wheel bearing starting to go, as the car has 95k KM or 59k miles on it, and I doubt it's ever been done. Before I jump through those hoops, is there any way to confirm?

Shaking the wheels up/down, you can hear a minor metal on metal clunk, almost like the wheel isn't snugged up on the lug nuts, but I can't reproduce without using the wheel itself as leverage, and it doesn't seem to appear side to side. Also, is there any danger on driving on this wheel bearing? As I had just signed up for an AutoX in the car.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: Jimini II on September 15, 2016, 04:21:39 PM
Could be a number of things. A wheel bearing will usually get louder when turning left or right as you are driving and if it is bad enough it should show play wherever you hold the wheel. It could be the cv nut (the large one in the center of the wheel) as these have high torque settings and sometimes loosen up. Also it could be a tie rod end or the rack bushing on the inner tie rod of the steering rack but these usually make noise when moved back and forth holding the wheel horizontally at 9 and 3. Check all the suspension bushings for deteriation and wear. Lastly it could be ball joints which you can check for play by moving the wheel vertically from 12 to 6.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on September 15, 2016, 04:39:03 PM
How can an axle nut get loose? They have substantial cotter pins in them.....

I guess if the bearing was failing, creating play?
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on September 15, 2016, 05:12:40 PM
The ball joints, tie rod ends are brand new.

I'll double check the castle nut. I did have it apart previously, so it might just need to be tightened up a wee bit and the cotter pin slid back in. Last time, it ended up between holes in the castle nut, so I backed it off a slight bit for the cotter pin.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on September 15, 2016, 05:16:51 PM
Oops, that's your problem. You torque it up, then tighten to the next hole.......
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: John Gervais on September 15, 2016, 05:34:33 PM
Yep - you've installed post 1990 knuckle joints which incorporate a spacer and are using 12" wheels instead of the late-model 13" which these knuckles are designed for, so it gives the appearance of more clearance. 

These are the knuckle joints you'd really prefer, and MSC has a good description of the differences as they relate to model changes:

Link:  GSV1118 (http://minispares.com/product/Classic/Suspension/Rear/Dry/GSV1118.aspx?190701&ReturnUrl=/product/classic/GSV1264.aspx%7CBack%20to)

Sadly, they're a pain in the arse to change.

Regarding suspension ratio, it's 3:1 in the front and 5:1 at the rear.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: John Gervais on September 16, 2016, 03:09:08 AM
I remembered something else - on the later big-wheeled minis there's also a thick spacer/washer between the bump stop and subframe which effectively lowers the bump stop closer to the upper arm.  If you drop the ride height significantly, you'll want to remove this washer to allow for between 1/8" and 1/4" space between the bump stop and upper arm, otherwise you'll be riding on the bumpstop.

I normally just drop the ride height such that the drive shafts sit parallel to the ground and adjust the rear to between ½" and 3/4" higher than the front as measured from where the heal and toe boards meet the floor panels.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on September 30, 2016, 08:14:38 AM
Quote41  No Yes    SM Jory I           1996 Rover Mini Coop                         
                   Day 1 Set 1  70.042      69.979     (67.632)   
                   Day 1 Set 2  69.012      69.049     (67.683)   
                 Total (both sets): 135.315

Dat consistency.

Tired of the 4x4 stance. Will be ordering non-spaced knuckles for the front so it lower, then I can lower the rear again.

That being said, I haven't seen many pics of the mini in action, so here's some standing shots.

(https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8263/29397050444_47042d8783_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/LMHyVj)
2016-09-25 09.30.37 (https://flic.kr/p/LMHyVj) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

I do indeed suck at Autocross.

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8748/29397048344_3bfe89dd85_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/LMHyi7)
2016-09-25 08.24.25 (https://flic.kr/p/LMHyi7) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

Also, this car leaks many oils.

(https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5211/29941557891_cee5c0bac2_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/MBQj1K)
2016-09-29 18.59.07 (https://flic.kr/p/MBQj1K) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on October 02, 2016, 09:35:49 AM
(https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8417/29753833180_d22962b44f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/MkfaZN)
037IMG_0681 (https://flic.kr/p/MkfaZN) by Ian Gulinao (https://www.flickr.com/photos/locotoy_ian-g/), on Flickr

(https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7483/29420942413_9e64a4c94a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/LPQ2aP)
037IMG_0684 (https://flic.kr/p/LPQ2aP) by Ian Gulinao (https://www.flickr.com/photos/locotoy_ian-g/), on Flickr

(https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8401/29753833780_12499466d0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Mkfbb9)
037IMG_0911 (https://flic.kr/p/Mkfbb9) by Ian Gulinao (https://www.flickr.com/photos/locotoy_ian-g/), on Flickr

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8397/29420942833_043e760043_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/LPQ2i4)
037IMG_1091 (https://flic.kr/p/LPQ2i4) by Ian Gulinao (https://www.flickr.com/photos/locotoy_ian-g/), on Flickr

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8049/29753834280_0546df50a7_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/MkfbjL)
037IMG_1092 (https://flic.kr/p/MkfbjL) by Ian Gulinao (https://www.flickr.com/photos/locotoy_ian-g/), on Flickr

(https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8533/29420943573_4d08ed1ce9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/LPQ2vP)
037IMG_1093 (https://flic.kr/p/LPQ2vP) by Ian Gulinao (https://www.flickr.com/photos/locotoy_ian-g/), on Flickr

(https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5829/30057980675_d615bfe7bf_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/MN81s8)
YYC AutoX (https://flic.kr/p/MN81s8) by Jonny W (https://www.flickr.com/photos/tang3nt/), on Flickr

(https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5697/29974781291_8cd030fa11_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/MELAaZ)
YYC AutoX (https://flic.kr/p/MELAaZ) by Jonny W (https://www.flickr.com/photos/tang3nt/), on Flickr

(https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5767/29944550942_6a6f73cbe3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/MC6DK5)
YYC AutoX (https://flic.kr/p/MC6DK5) by Jonny W (https://www.flickr.com/photos/tang3nt/), on Flickr

(https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8406/29944550862_3a85fa8616_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/MC6DHG)
YYC AutoX (https://flic.kr/p/MC6DHG) by Jonny W (https://www.flickr.com/photos/tang3nt/), on Flickr

(https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8397/29944547002_82a3257acb_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/MC6Cz9)
YYC AutoX (https://flic.kr/p/MC6Cz9) by Jonny W (https://www.flickr.com/photos/tang3nt/), on Flickr

(https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8568/29764021060_c57174b360_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Mm9ouU)
YYC AutoX (https://flic.kr/p/Mm9ouU) by Jonny W (https://www.flickr.com/photos/tang3nt/), on Flickr

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8527/29944549672_1abe1072b6_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/MC6Dnb)
YYC AutoX (https://flic.kr/p/MC6Dnb) by Jonny W (https://www.flickr.com/photos/tang3nt/), on Flickr

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5772/30057984785_30014915fd_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/MN82EZ)
YYC AutoX (https://flic.kr/p/MN82EZ) by Jonny W (https://www.flickr.com/photos/tang3nt/), on Flickr

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7502/29944549512_fd340f6fba_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/MC6Djq)
YYC AutoX (https://flic.kr/p/MC6Djq) by Jonny W (https://www.flickr.com/photos/tang3nt/), on Flickr

(https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8538/30057986695_ef66ca4d5c_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/MN83eV)
YYC AutoX (https://flic.kr/p/MN83eV) by Jonny W (https://www.flickr.com/photos/tang3nt/), on Flickr

(https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8682/30057980955_6f7e1848c0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/MN81wX)
YYC AutoX (https://flic.kr/p/MN81wX) by Jonny W (https://www.flickr.com/photos/tang3nt/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on October 06, 2016, 04:28:05 PM
All right Jory!

Looks like you got in a number of runs......

Where is your oil leak coming from now? Didn't you replace the shifter shaft seal in the transmission already?
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on October 06, 2016, 04:37:58 PM
Quote from: MiniDave on October 06, 2016, 04:28:05 PM
All right Jory!

Looks like you got in a number of runs......

Where is your oil leak coming from now? Didn't you replace the shifter shaft seal in the transmission already?

6 runs that day. Mini might be up for AutoX duty again this saturday if the s2k summer tires can't cut the cold weather.

Looks like it's dripping off the front of the block, trickling down the front of the oil pan.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: John Gervais on October 06, 2016, 04:50:34 PM
That looked like fun!   77.gif
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on October 08, 2016, 05:48:11 PM
Ended up swapping the mini in for racing today.

Quote41  No Yes   FSP Jory I           mini                                         
                   Day 1 Set 1  54.895      50.537      50.514     (50.017)   
                   Day 1 Set 2  49.416      50.337      50.021      48.620     (48.422)   
           Total (single best run):  48.422

First run I cruised. Then I put on my big boy pants. For the last 2 runs, I forgot the car had a brake pedal.

52/59 RAW
51/59 PAX
10/10 SPREP
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: flipstah on October 11, 2016, 10:14:31 AM
Quote from: LilDrunkenSmurf on October 06, 2016, 04:37:58 PM
Quote from: MiniDave on October 06, 2016, 04:28:05 PM
All right Jory!

Looks like you got in a number of runs......

Where is your oil leak coming from now? Didn't you replace the shifter shaft seal in the transmission already?

6 runs that day. Mini might be up for AutoX duty again this saturday if the s2k summer tires can't cut the cold weather.

Looks like it's dripping off the front of the block, trickling down the front of the oil pan.

That's the same spot of my leak! That and the valve cover just oozing. AutoX looked good
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MPlayle on October 11, 2016, 12:51:28 PM
Pressure pushing oil out the dip-stick?
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on October 11, 2016, 12:56:08 PM
Quote from: MPlayle on October 11, 2016, 12:51:28 PM
Pressure pushing oil out the dip-stick?


Nope, all clean up there. Potentially on/around the oil filter.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on June 19, 2017, 07:08:26 AM
So I've been flip flopping on this car for a while. It sat all winter, after auto-xing at the end of last season in Calgary. I was ready to sell it, but when spring rolled around and flipstah started posting pics of his mini everywhere, I felt a little love for the car. When someone offered me 9k for it, I had to turn the money down and keep it.

So I kept it. I've swapped the front and rear knuckles to try and get it a bit lower, with absolutely no luck up front. I'm debating swapping from cones to coils, but that's ~300GBP, so it might be a while. I've also noticed the front feels a bit loose, so I'm going to get in there and make sure all the bolts are tight. Also ordering a few small pieces to try and clean up some of the oil leaks, as well as a spare set of front brake pads, and some spare plasic flares in ABS black. They may need to be painted/wrapped to colour match. I'll also hopefully one day be taking it in for an alignment.

One thing I've noticed is that the steering feels mildly delayed. If I "wiggle" the steering wheel back and forth, rather than feeling like it's turning, if feels like the car is pivoting instead. It's a very odd, almost delayed feeling. I'm not sure if it's due to a bad alignment, something loose in the front end. Under/over inflated tires, or something else.

Also, I bought a small baller piece. A leather fuel bib from a company out in BC making the odd classic mini parts.

https://www.stevestonmotorco.com/product-page/fuel-bib-collection-i

#3.

No pics yet, because I always do these updates from work.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on June 19, 2017, 07:49:11 AM
Glad to see you're still with us!

Check the steering rack mounting u-bolts to be sure they're tight, check the upper control arms to be sure the bearings are still good (didn't you have those out to install the new doughnuts?

Other than that, just have someone move the wheel while you look for looseness. My car was acting a bit odd on turn in, found out my rear control arm bushings were absolutely shot, so you might check that too.

It's hard to sell one of these, isn't it? At the same time you're cursing it for it's "issues", you'd be missing it if you didn't have it!
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: flipstah on June 19, 2017, 08:04:35 AM
Quote from: LilDrunkenSmurf on June 19, 2017, 07:08:26 AM
So I've been flip flopping on this car for a while. It sat all winter, after auto-xing at the end of last season in Calgary. I was ready to sell it, but when spring rolled around and flipstah started posting pics of his mini everywhere, I felt a little love for the car. When someone offered me 9k for it, I had to turn the money down and keep it.

So I kept it. I've swapped the front and rear knuckles to try and get it a bit lower, with absolutely no luck up front. I'm debating swapping from cones to coils, but that's ~300GBP, so it might be a while. I've also noticed the front feels a bit loose, so I'm going to get in there and make sure all the bolts are tight. Also ordering a few small pieces to try and clean up some of the oil leaks, as well as a spare set of front brake pads, and some spare plasic flares in ABS black. They may need to be painted/wrapped to colour match. I'll also hopefully one day be taking it in for an alignment.

One thing I've noticed is that the steering feels mildly delayed. If I "wiggle" the steering wheel back and forth, rather than feeling like it's turning, if feels like the car is pivoting instead. It's a very odd, almost delayed feeling. I'm not sure if it's due to a bad alignment, something loose in the front end. Under/over inflated tires, or something else.

Also, I bought a small baller piece. A leather fuel bib from a company out in BC making the odd classic mini parts.

https://www.stevestonmotorco.com/product-page/fuel-bib-collection-i

#3.

No pics yet, because I always do these updates from work.

I like how you order things without me. I always think about you whenever I order things.  19.gif

I'm just happy we're still friends.  62.gif
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on June 19, 2017, 08:07:58 AM
Quote from: MiniDave on June 19, 2017, 07:49:11 AM
Glad to see you're still with us!

Check the steering rack mounting u-bolts to be sure they're tight, check the upper control arms to be sure the bearings are still good (didn't you have those out to install the new doughnuts?

Other than that, just have someone move the wheel while you look for looseness. My car was acting a bit odd on turn in, found out my rear control arm bushings were absolutely shot, so you might check that too.

It's hard to sell one of these, isn't it? At the same time you're cursing it for it's "issues", you'd be missing it if you didn't have it!

I'll check the steering rack. I replaced one of the boots already, rebuilt the upper arms, aside from the bearings, as I couldn't get them out, and completely rebuilt the rear arms (had a local shop do it for me).

Also, I hate the new donuts. They're too damn tall.

Quote from: flipstah on June 19, 2017, 08:04:35 AM

I like how you order things without me. I always think about you whenever I order things.  19.gif

I'm just happy we're still friends.  62.gif

Well, they're one offs, and I didn't want to fight over colours. Of note, either gimme your lights, or I'm going to have to order some of my own.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on June 19, 2017, 10:12:40 AM
I forgot you and Flipstah were neighbors and buds!
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on June 20, 2017, 08:03:15 AM
Pulled the front wheels off, everything still looks tight. I checked the air pressures and I was running 28psi all the way around on the 12's, so I've increased the pressure to 32psi to see if it helps.

One other thing I noticed is that at highway speeds (100kph+) it almost "hops" or vibrates up and down. I chalk that up to the alignment for now. Probably some bad toe up front.

Also, dis:

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4249/34617424143_648f30cb6c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/UK2m9p)
IMG_20170619_202839 (https://flic.kr/p/UK2m9p) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: flipstah on June 20, 2017, 08:43:26 AM
Quote from: LilDrunkenSmurf on June 19, 2017, 08:07:58 AM

Well, they're one offs, and I didn't want to fight over colours. Of note, either gimme your lights, or I'm going to have to order some of my own.

My fog lamp is cracked. You don't want those.

Quote from: MiniDave on June 19, 2017, 10:12:40 AM
I forgot you and Flipstah were neighbors and buds!

He's the reason why I'm here!  17.gif
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on June 27, 2017, 06:44:51 AM
Thanks to flipstah, we got our new parts in. Looks like the new flares will take a bit or work, definitely not bolt on replacements.

Also, I apparently had an LED flasher, and picked up an OEM one, and now need a new LED flasher. Anyone know where I can source one?
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: BruceK on June 27, 2017, 07:03:40 AM
Quote from: LilDrunkenSmurf on June 27, 2017, 06:44:51 AM

Also, I apparently had an LED flasher, and picked up an OEM one, and now need a new LED flasher. Anyone know where I can source one?

You should be able to go to your local auto parts store and find one that will work - or get one from Amazon.   Basically, there are two kinds of flashers:  thermal bi-metal (which is what most cars over the last 7 decades came with) that depend on the regular current draw of incandescent bulbs and flash mechanically, and now the newer electronic type (which should work with LEDs) that count their flashes electronically.  So you want an electronic one designed to work with LEDs called a "no-load" flasher. 
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on June 27, 2017, 07:09:59 AM
Quote from: BruceK on June 27, 2017, 07:03:40 AM
Quote from: LilDrunkenSmurf on June 27, 2017, 06:44:51 AM

Also, I apparently had an LED flasher, and picked up an OEM one, and now need a new LED flasher. Anyone know where I can source one?

You should be able to go to your local auto parts store and find one that will work - or get one from Amazon.   Basically, there are two kinds of flashers:  thermal bi-metal (which is what most cars over the last 7 decades came with) that depend on the regular current draw of incandescent bulbs and flash mechanically, and now the newer electronic type (which should work with LEDs) that count their flashes electronically.  So you want an electronic one designed to work with LEDs called a "no-load" flasher. 

Yeah, the problem is finding one in Canada.

I want the CF13JL-02. Amazon Canada has one for ~$30, but I found one at a Canadian light dealer for ~$15, so I'm just looking for a discount code before ordering.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: BruceK on June 27, 2017, 07:14:45 AM
Looks like I could make a fortune buying these in the US and smuggling them across the border.  ;D
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on June 27, 2017, 07:51:58 AM
Quote from: BruceK on June 27, 2017, 07:14:45 AM
Looks like I could make a fortune buying these in the US and smuggling them across the border.  ;D

$10 USD via DiodeDynamics. After shipping and conversion, it'd be roughly $30 CAD
$30 CAD via Amazon Canada. Free shipping, no prime.
$15 CAD via ProLightz (A Diode Dynamics dealer in Canada). Free pickup, or $12 to ship it via snail mail from east to west.

So glad I paid 10GBP for a flasher module that would give me a stroke.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on June 28, 2017, 05:43:56 AM
Quote from: bikewiz on June 28, 2017, 04:29:15 AM
I use this in my car $13 CAD plus shipping?
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/cf13gl-02-led-bulb-electronic-flasher/782/836/ (https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/cf13gl-02-led-bulb-electronic-flasher/782/836/)

$13 USD for shipping. That's $17 CAD, which puts me right back at $30.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: flipstah on July 05, 2017, 01:57:27 PM
"Nice fenders! They look awesome!  4.gif"

... Is what I would say if you put them on already.  20.gif
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on July 05, 2017, 01:59:42 PM
But the holes don't line up.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on August 09, 2017, 08:37:43 AM
Quick update (thanks to flipstah poking me).

Drove the car all weekend and monday, which was great fun, but it reminds me of a few things:
1) I really want front speakers
2) There's a clunk coming from the front of the car still. Since everything else looks tight, I'm wondering if maybe the engine mounts are shot, or something in the subframe is loose. It's fairly solid when going over large bumps, suck as parking lot speedbumps.
3) I get a weird rattle/coin sound when using >25% throttle. Almost like valve float, but not RPM dependant, just throttle dependant. I'm debating going back to the stock intake from the K&N to see if it makes a difference.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on August 09, 2017, 10:36:04 AM
Check the oil in the dashpot on the carb?
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on August 10, 2017, 10:11:37 AM
Quote from: MiniDave on August 09, 2017, 10:36:04 AM
Check the oil in the dashpot on the carb?

It's an SPI, no carb.

Also, in regards to the cat heat shields, I tested with a test pipe, and the sound is still there, so the heat shields aren't the issue.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on August 10, 2017, 12:13:12 PM
oh, could be pinking, like someone else said......
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on October 03, 2017, 10:29:40 AM
Hey guys, after 3 years of sitting on it, I was installing the steering column drop bracket, and while I was under there, I noticed one of the studs on the firewall for the gas pedal has snapped off. Is there an easy way to repair this? Is it safe to drill a hole for a bolt, or use a self tapping screw? I don't have access to a welder.

I can still drive the car as-is, however it causes the gas pedal to be quite loose and wobbly side to side.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on October 03, 2017, 10:36:32 AM
Drill it and use a nut and bolt is probably the easiest way......

Love your gif avatar, btw!   ;D 4.gif
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on October 03, 2017, 11:07:42 AM
Quote from: MiniDave on October 03, 2017, 10:36:32 AM
Drill it and use a nut and bolt is probably the easiest way......

Love your gif avatar, btw!   ;D 4.gif

Nothing on the other side that I can potentially damage? It looks like it should clear the booster and such no problem.

And thanks, it's my wife!
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: Willie_B on October 03, 2017, 02:04:34 PM
Quote from: LilDrunkenSmurf on October 03, 2017, 10:29:40 AM
Hey guys, after 3 years of sitting on it,

That must have been uncomfortable.

If you have room to double nut the bolt that would make it easier to install the pedal. One nut to hold the bolt in the firewall, the second for the pedal.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on October 04, 2017, 06:40:29 AM
So I was drilling the hole, hit an open cavity and then something hard. I stopped drilling and just threaded a bolt directly into the body. Seems to be working just fine, so I'll stick with that.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on October 19, 2017, 10:57:13 AM
Another thing that's popped up. I'm 90% sure that the "buzzing" sound is an exhaust leak, somewhere in the header itself. I'll look into it when... Who knows when.

But I threw the stock intake back on in order to try and quiet it down, which worked, but I ran into the same issue I had previously, where it wants to flood out on cold starts, especially pulling off the line. It feels like it's getting way more gas than air. Aside from replacing/cleaning the current filter, is there a way to tune the SPi mini's to run leaner? Mechanically, or otherwise?
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: jeff10049 on October 20, 2017, 08:05:08 PM
Have you checked the fuel trap and related hoses that causes most of the rich issues on the spi.

Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on October 23, 2017, 08:21:44 AM
Quote from: jeff10049 on October 20, 2017, 08:05:08 PM
Have you checked the fuel trap and related hoses that causes most of the rich issues on the spi.



I didn't know that. I've now successfully googled where/what the fuel trap is, but what should I be looking for? Clogged vacuum hoses?
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on October 23, 2017, 08:41:05 AM
A new one isn't too bad, £13.29 or about $23 Canadian......

http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Engine/NPC10001.aspx?10&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/fuel trap.aspx|Back to search (http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Engine/NPC10001.aspx?10&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/fuel%20trap.aspx%7CBack%20to%20search)

So Jeff, what does it do exactly? trap fuel in the vacuum lines? And if so, how does fuel get into the vacuum lines?
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MPlayle on October 23, 2017, 10:12:55 AM
I have some left-over SPI parts that I'll send for cost of postage.

The parts are:
1 - SPI throttle cable
2 - Fuel traps
various vacuum lines and elbows
2 - air filters (1 standard, 1 K&N)

Postage via USPS looks to be about $46 USD.

Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on October 25, 2017, 06:00:22 AM
Checked the trap and all the lines, all seems clear. I will be ordering a new SPi air filter, eventually.

This also happened. Check the before numbers.

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4466/37214308494_e8f5b2b6d9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YGv4ow)
Mini on the rack (https://flic.kr/p/YGv4ow) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr


(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4479/24072956448_b1389b3726_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CFfcgf)
Alignment (https://flic.kr/p/CFfcgf) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

The front passenger side (or drivers side for RHD), was dialed back on camber as much as possible. I literally can't get less camber, so the other side was made to match. It also took us 30+ minutes with the toe plate on the rear drivers side. I couldn't get any less toe in than that.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on October 25, 2017, 07:17:45 AM
Do you have adjustable camber lower control arms, and if so what style? Some are harder to adjust than others, and some don't adjust very far at all. If you don't have them you can install them and set your camber wherever you want it, same with caster - adjustable tie bars.....that way you can dial it in exactly where you want it. I find this style easiest to set and they're well made and heavy duty.

https://usa.minisport.com/spdsp431a-heavy-duty-adjustable-mini-bottom-suspension-arms.html (https://usa.minisport.com/spdsp431a-heavy-duty-adjustable-mini-bottom-suspension-arms.html)

You need these to adjust the caster - I think 4* is a lot, I run 3* on my cars, but it's in spec.

https://usa.minisport.com/c-8g4249-mini-sport-adjustable-front-suspension-tie-rod-pair.html (https://usa.minisport.com/c-8g4249-mini-sport-adjustable-front-suspension-tie-rod-pair.html)

How does it drive now, any better? What was it doing before?

To get less toe in the back you need to either put shims behind the bracket or use adjustable brackets. I have a new set of Mini Sport rear camber and toe brackets I can sell you if you want them.....I don't need them. They're normally $75, I'd take $50 (US) plus shipping.

I like to run .5* camber, front and rear, a little toe in in the rear and a little toe out in the front
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on October 25, 2017, 10:39:19 AM
I have adjustable everything. Camber arms, caster, toe/camber plates in the rear.

Drives way better, but while under the car, I noticed the leaking brake fluid. I just dug into it, and the cylinder is just gushing fluid. One piston is completely stuck, the other is a waterfall, so I just ordered some new 3/4" bore cylinders, an air filter, a spare oil filter, and a replacement vacuum line for the intake.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on October 25, 2017, 11:14:48 AM
And some new shoes? If they have brake fluid on them they'll get sticky and drag or lock up.....
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on October 25, 2017, 11:18:24 AM
Didn't realize that. Welp. I'll have to look into either getting some replacements, and in the mean time, just ensuring these are really clean. It's unfortunate, they have quite a bit of meat on them. I'm also trying to spend as little right now, as my contract ended, and I haven't managed to line up some more work yet.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on October 25, 2017, 11:34:25 AM
Sometimes you can clean them up OK with a can of spray brake cleaner, but not if they've been soaked. New shoes are only about $18/set at Victoria British.....their part #6-510

http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/sm/full.aspx?Page=40 (http://www.victoriabritish.com/icatalog/sm/full.aspx?Page=40)

they can't be a whole lot more up there.....

Good luck on finding another placement!   4.gif
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: jeff10049 on October 25, 2017, 09:53:45 PM
Quote from: MiniDave on October 23, 2017, 08:41:05 AM
A new one isn't too bad, £13.29 or about $23 Canadian......

http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Engine/NPC10001.aspx?10&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/fuel trap.aspx|Back to search (http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Engine/NPC10001.aspx?10&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/fuel%20trap.aspx%7CBack%20to%20search)

So Jeff, what does it do exactly? trap fuel in the vacuum lines? And if so, how does fuel get into the vacuum lines?

Keeps moisture/fuel/oil residue out of the map sensor located in the ecm. The trap is known to plug up and cause rich/poor running due to low signal to the map.  The temp sensor could also be a likely culprit.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on November 02, 2017, 12:25:50 PM
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4444/37411057954_739c50f7b6_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YZTs9A)
Drum Cylinder 1 (https://flic.kr/p/YZTs9A) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4462/26344063239_160aa0da8f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/G8WdbT)
Drum Cylinder 2 (https://flic.kr/p/G8WdbT) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4480/37411058674_063063bd45_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/YZTsn1)
Filter (https://flic.kr/p/YZTsn1) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

This happened. Once it warms up, I'll do the other side as well, since I ordered 2 regardless. I hate the c-clip, but I figured it out. Reused the old bleed nipple, as it was larger and fit the tubing I was using to bleed the brakes. One of the pistons is completely seized on the old drum cylinder.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on November 02, 2017, 01:55:18 PM
Once you get them both sorted it should make it stop better! What causes that is people not changing their brake fluid - EVER!

;D
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on November 05, 2017, 11:50:26 AM
I bled the brakes when I rebuilt the rear subframe, and installed the braided lines all the way around. I just wanted the leak to stop, so I did the one side, moved it to the driveway, pulled the battery, put the car cover on it, and it's now under ~20cm of snow. Went through half a can of brake cleaner, cleaning up the shoes, backing plate and such.

Come spring (or a chinook to melt all the snow), I'll do the other side as well.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on April 06, 2018, 09:32:00 AM
Well spring made a short appearance, so I did the other brake cylinder, and adjusted both rear drums using the video from Stevensonmotorco, which was very helpful and informative.

But now that I drove it again, I remember it shimmy's at 80kph+. It's frustrating. I'm going to try the typical things like swapping wheels around, but it's got all new suspension, new LCA, new balljoints, new everything except front subframe bushings.

I know it's a project car, I know what I signed on for, but cant I get like... one solid drive in? That's not too much, right?

Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on April 06, 2018, 10:29:00 AM
My green Mini does the same thing, it's very frustrating. I have all new suspension, bearings, discs and pads, the alignment is right, I've tried moving the wheels around, I've had the wheels on the balancer a bunch of times and checked them for true and out of round and they're good, I've tried different wheels from another car. It's still there.....annoying as hell!
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on April 06, 2018, 10:47:36 AM
Quote from: MiniDave on April 06, 2018, 10:29:00 AM
My green Mini does the same thing, it's very frustrating. I have all new suspension, bearings, discs and pads, the alignment is right, I've tried moving the wheels around, I've had the wheels on the balancer a bunch of times and checked them for true and out of round and they're good, I've tried different wheels from another car. It's still there.....annoying as hell!

I'm worried it's going to be something else I haven't tried yet, like the driveshafts. I haven't had much success pulling them out of the transmission case, but I didn't try that hard, for fear of finding something else I need to replace hahaha.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on April 06, 2018, 11:18:50 AM
The only way to get them out is to release one of the ball joints so you can move the hub outward, then I prefer to cut the clamp on the boot and slide the inner pot joint apart, rather than popping the joint out of the transmission.

I'm also wondering about the axles as that's the only part of the front end I haven't rebuilt. I'll be pulling mine next weekend, I'll let you know what I find, if anything.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on June 06, 2018, 11:02:55 AM
So I broke the rear bumper bolts removing it (they were rusted and snapped the studs) to replace the hinges for the boot/trunk. So that's great, guess I'll need to order a new one?

Additionally, I crawled under the engine to see if the gearbox shifter was leaking, and it doesn't look like that is the culprit. Someone above the passenger (usdm driver) driveshaft is leaking oil onto it, which is then spinning it bloody everywhere. It's a goddamn mess, and I have no idea how to tackle it, without removing the engine. Additionally, I still can't figure out how to remove the dash, so I can make some gap fillers for the deleted a/c vents.

Some days I love this car, some days I hate it. Today I'm not sure which it is.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on June 06, 2018, 11:33:00 AM
On the left side of the engine there are only a few places oil can leak from, the valve cover gasket would be a prime candidate but you replaced that already. About the only other thing there is the crankshaft seal or the timing cover itself - there really isn't anything else over there that can leak oil.

The main oil pressure side is the front of the engine, that's where the main pressure pipe to the filter is, the oil pressure sending unit and the pressure relief valve.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on June 06, 2018, 12:44:28 PM
Knowing my luck, it is the crankshaft seal or the timing cover. It could be the actual gearbox leaking where the driveshaft mates, but I still don't know how to remove it. I wish I had a resource that didn't cost $140/hr in labour, locally.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on June 08, 2018, 02:20:53 PM
flipstah came by to steal an oil filter, and listen to my "buzzing/rattling" sound. We're pretty sure it's exhaust. I think it's either the slip joint on the manifold, the heat shield, or a washer somewhere in the engine bay. So weird.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: flipstah on June 08, 2018, 03:10:28 PM
When you step on the throttle, it rattles like a washer vibrating on something. It rattles faster as the revs go up.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on June 08, 2018, 03:29:42 PM
Does this car have a cat? Cause that's usually what causes this type of noise, a broken weld or tab on a heat shield around the cat.....
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on June 08, 2018, 08:54:19 PM
It does, but when I replaced it with a straight pipe, it continued. It's 100% coming from bottom of the engine bay.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: gr8kornholio on June 09, 2018, 08:49:06 AM
Quote from: MiniDave on June 08, 2018, 03:29:42 PM
Does this car have a cat? Cause that's usually what causes this type of noise, a broken weld or tab on a heat shield around the cat.....

Glad I read this again this morning, cause last night I was like, why would the car have a cat(meow) and if one was stuck in a car when it started it usually shreaks, not rattle. 
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: Shrimps on June 12, 2018, 11:20:02 AM
On the water pump end of the block, and behind the coolant bypass hose (if equipped) between the block and head is the oil passage that feeds the rocker arms on the head.  If the head gasket is leaking at that oil passage it can make quite a mess.

I had a 998 leaking there that I didn't notice at idle, but once I brought the revs up I could see oil running out between the block and head behind where the coolant bypass hose is.  I went from a nice cleaned up block (after fixing a couple other leaks) when engine was out, to having oil dripping on the ground after a quick few minute low speed drive down the block and back.  I installed a new head gasket which resolved the leak.

Quote from: MiniDave on June 06, 2018, 11:33:00 AM
On the left side of the engine there are only a few places oil can leak from, the valve cover gasket would be a prime candidate but you replaced that already. About the only other thing there is the crankshaft seal or the timing cover itself - there really isn't anything else over there that can leak oil.

The main oil pressure side is the front of the engine, that's where the main pressure pipe to the filter is, the oil pressure sending unit and the pressure relief valve.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on August 14, 2018, 07:43:30 AM
So the other day, after leaving the car on jack stands for weeks, I decided to finally try and chase down some issues. Mainly a "rattling" sound that happens when the car is under load, an oil leak that looks like the gearshift, and trying to pull out the lambda sensor for a cleaning. I managed to tear apart the gear shift, to find out it's not the cause of the leak, remove the brace for the header, to find out it's not the cause of the rattle, and then decided not to remove the intake manifold to get to the sensor, as I don't have any replacement gaskets, and I'm pretty sure I'll also have to remove the exhaust manifold.

Afterwards, I opted to go for a test drive. And then this happened:

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1835/29094018277_f3da4326f4_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/LjWs1M)
Toe Out (https://flic.kr/p/LjWs1M) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

The wheel pulled hard right, and it sounded like at least one tire had locked up. That was an interesting experience.

The problem appears to be in this general area:

(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1813/29094018117_f066067b5f_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/LjWrY2)
Something's missing (https://flic.kr/p/LjWrY2) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

So it looks like the 3/8" nut backed off, and the lower arm pin just... popped out.

A friend came to my rescue with a jack and some hand tools, and after a $4 trip to Lowes for a new nylon nut, and some lock washers, I completely rebuilt the front suspension on the side of the road, and limped it home. All the threads were solid, and everything looked good.

Before pulling away, I opted to check the other side, and the nut was still there, so I tried to tighten it... and it just wouldn't bottom out. This frightened me, so I decided to take another look at it when I got home.

This is what I found:
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1776/43982792672_7b1c91b20d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2a1BiVA)
That's even worse (https://flic.kr/p/2a1BiVA) by Jory Irving (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lildrunkensmurf/), on Flickr

So I swapped in a spare I had. Hilariously these genuine pins are <2yr old with <1000km on them. So the fact that one completely backed off with a lock washer, and the other completely stripped the threads, is mildly concerning.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on August 14, 2018, 08:30:45 AM
Were you the one who installed the lower pins, or did the shop that changed your cones and charged you an arm and a leg do them?
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on August 14, 2018, 09:18:19 AM
You're thinking of flipstah.
I did all my own stuff. Apparently not very well.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on August 14, 2018, 09:28:40 AM
OK, I thought you were the one who paid to have the cones installed - sorry, my bad.

So either the pins were badly or cheaply made, or you overtorqued the nuts and stripped the threads. Glad you got it back on the road safely, and before winter sets in next week in Canada!  ;D
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on August 14, 2018, 02:29:11 PM
Well they were "genuine" according to minispares. Likely, since I drenched them in anti-seize, I just over torqued at least the stripped out side. The other side wasn't stripped out. I forgot you're supposed to use ~30% less torque for wet torque.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on August 14, 2018, 02:47:59 PM
Right.....no reason to use antisieze on that part, but a nylock is a good idea.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on August 15, 2018, 09:05:43 AM
I live in Canada, where the roads are caked in salt 6 months of the year. After 8 years with my Subaru, it's generally accepted to slather everything in anti-seize.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on August 15, 2018, 11:22:06 AM
I hear ya! Here in KC you'd think the city owns a salt mine the way they lay that stuff down on the roads!
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: BruceK on August 15, 2018, 11:55:09 AM
When I moved to Texas from the Midwest back in the early 90s, I was amazed to see perfectly pristine old cars driving around. I'm not talking classics or anything - I'm talking about Ford Tempos and Toyota Corollas and Chevrolet Cavaliers.  Basic transportation devices.   The kind of cars that got eaten up and spit out up north.  They just keep on chugging until mechanically they become too expensive to maintain.  But the junkyards are filled with perfectly fine looking cars here.  So it's really misleading when you go to a Pick-n-Pull and see what you think is a good car. All the mechanical stuff, wiper motors, alternators, radiators, etc. are totally shot but the body still looks great.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on August 16, 2018, 09:28:32 AM
I had a similar experience when I spend a few weeks in Vancouver in the spring.
They rarely see snow, so they don't salt the roads. I saw a ton of old late 80's honda's, toyota's, etc, that had mint bodies on them, whereas anything older than 10 years here looks unsafe to be on the road at times.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on August 16, 2018, 10:13:49 AM
Hey Smurf, did that fix your shimmy at 80Kph?
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on August 16, 2018, 12:20:21 PM
I didn't go fast enough before it fell apart. Did you fix yours?
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on August 16, 2018, 12:35:42 PM
Nope, still doing it.....I was hoping that might fix yours, although my bushings are new and my pins are tight so I know that's not it on mine.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on June 14, 2019, 08:40:08 AM
Came here to say that it apparently did fix my shimmy. But now my steering wheel is at a jaunty angle when driving straight, so either my alignment is out of wack, or I just need to re-center it, because getting this thing aligned it a huge pain.

Also, I love this car. Sometimes I hate it, but I love this car. I just want to throw money at it, but I don't even know where to start (other than buying a B-series subframe).
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on May 19, 2020, 07:16:07 AM
Been a while. Decided to not completely ignore the car for a bit. Last spring I tried to troubleshoot the cold start flooding issue. It boiled down to likely being an IAT sensor. So I ignored it, and barely drove the car.
Took it out on Wednesday, and decently enjoyed it, so I decided to give it some love. Ordered the replacement IAT sensor, gave it an oil change, checked that no front suspension bolts were loose, and adjusted the valves, using this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZFvwyCroV2w

Originally I mis-read my tools and adjust it using a 0.0015" feeler, but I went back and properly adjusted it using a 0.012" feeler. Since I removed the spark plugs anyways, I opted to do a quick compression test. I labelled the Cyl 1->4 from Left to Right.

Cyl 1: 175psi
Cyl 2: 175psi
Cyl 3: 180psi
Cyl 4: 170psi

(https://i.imgur.com/O4A5vCC.png)

And the spark plugs, 1-4 from left to right.

(https://i.imgur.com/Rjgt3Gk.png?1)

Seems to idle much better, which I'm stoked on. I also found it near impossible to turn the engine over, so I had to put the car in gear and shunt it back and forth.

Now I notice a pretty solid clunk when I shift 1-2, and over some bumps, so I think it's engine mounts, but I have no idea which ones I would need to tackle, as all the ones I can see underneath the car seem fine.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: BruceK on May 19, 2020, 07:56:07 AM
Nice healthy compression!   4.gif

Just FYI, normally cylinder numbering goes 1 to 4 with 1 starting at the timing chain end of the engine.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on July 26, 2020, 06:54:04 PM
Turns out the clunks were the passenger side wheel bearing (left hand side). Grabbed a new lucas one from a local mini shop for ~$60, watched a vid, asked a buddy if he was bored, and went to town.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fxv5Xv_tgCE

Surprisingly only took 2.5 hours for the entire process. Did a short test drive, and it appears resolved. The cold start flooding is still present, but I have a new IAT sensor in a box, that took a month to get here from the UK. They're apparently notorious for going bad.

(https://i.imgur.com/y4cCtfll.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/jgvJKFNl.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/uU0rARhl.jpg)
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: 94touring on July 26, 2020, 07:42:36 PM
2.5 hours is pretty good!
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on July 26, 2020, 08:05:16 PM
I fully expected it to take much longer, seeing as it was my first attempt.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: 94touring on July 26, 2020, 08:07:07 PM
Did you have a press for the bearing job or punch and hammer?  I spend most of the time hand lapping and shimming the balljoints till I feel they're good to go.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: LilDrunkenSmurf on July 27, 2020, 06:39:54 AM
I used a punch and hammer. We tried a bearing pull kit, but it wasn't quite right. I believe my neighbour has a press, but I didn't want to go harass him.
Title: Re: Reggie: The '96 Rover Mini
Post by: MiniDave on July 27, 2020, 08:34:09 AM
Shimming ball joints is a pain in the ass......I think the extra cost for those sealed ones from Japan might be worth it just to not have to do that!