Hi I figured this would be a great place to do a build thread. It's a very early 1960. I was going to go vtec with it but after research it's to early of one to kill. So we are just going to restore it.
We got it home and put away to start figuring out or plan of action. First thing was build a work stand so its at a comfortable working height.
Welcome to the forum! Great looking project! Have you considered building a rotisserie? If you need panels let me know.
Been sending photos to some guys on another page and we have came up with early Jan 1960 build. This is from glass code, lack of roof trim, FE, Body,and VIN numbers.
Quote from: 94touring on April 17, 2014, 03:26:35 PM
Welcome to the forum! Great looking project! Have you considered building a rotisserie? If you need panels let me know.
Yea a rotisserie is in the future. Just wanted it at a comfortable work height for tear down. I figured once I get further along I would drive up to Tulsa from here in plano to get some parts and pointers.
Excellent, look forward to it.
Jan '60 - NICE!! 4.gif
Another mid-south-central-westerner...you guys are like flies around this place. Gravitational pull of 94s shop is strong.
Welcome!
Pat
This should be the biggest nightmare of the project. 54 years of chopping and hacking on the harness. Then there is this....
Welcome to the Resto WOrld - We love pictures here!
Those are for sure 59/60 Doors with that drain hole in the rear! A true mark of a 59/60 Car!
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=558.0;attach=933;image)
I am not sure if this is an improvement or destruction... I am leaning towards improvement.
Holy flashback!! Obviously a hack from the 60's.
Quote from: sparetimetoys on April 18, 2014, 05:14:39 AM
This should be the biggest nightmare of the project. 54 years of chopping and hacking on the harness.
That's the biggest opportunity to shine...imagine the difference a brand new cloth covered harness is going to make!
The harness in my '65 is just like that. I've been dealing with it for 27 years - no sense replacing it and having an awesome looking harness next to all the other junk - will get replaced if I live long enough to restore the whole car. ::)
Tonight I did a little exploration in the bad corner of the cowl. I'm sure the right wing is pitted past where its worth saving. I will need a patch panel for the corner of the cowl it's not all the way thru on any of it but wow is it pitted. I also cleaned off the FE, engine, and body Number for easier reading and future reference.
Sounds like you're talking about the windscreen corner. If they're questionable and the wings are off it's best to put in new.
Quote from: 94touring on April 19, 2014, 07:35:33 PM
Sounds like you're talking about the windscreen corner. If they're questionable and the wings are off it's best to put in new.
Yea that part of the cowl below the windshield and aft of the wing. I don't plan to take the left wing off but the right one is a goner.
Nice project, worth saving!
So I did a little exploritary work with a da and some 3M disc pads on the worst spots that concerned me. I can save the cowl and there is a chance I can keep the wing also. I may have to weld in a couple spots after a quick hit with a descaler but nothing like I feared. Has anyone ever used that rust conversion spray the show on the car shows on TV? I'm thinking that may be the key to keeping the wing.
My theory is if I can't remove it, it's still there. Maybe try sand blasting or soda blasting the pitted areas with a homemade setup.
For tonight's fun and games I decided to take the windshield out. Its the only glass on the car with out a 4th quarter of 59 date code. I figured if I was going to break one taking it out I would learn on it. After all aren't replacement windshields a little more acceptable. Ok on with the show. I used a box cutter and a small punch. When I first started I was just cutting the seal but when it cut the retainer it sounded like glass crunching. It was freaking me out so I got out a small punch and dug out the retainer. I then cut the seal and lifted out the glass. I pealed off the rest of the seal and was pleasantly surprised to find no rust.
Quick shots of windshield frame
Wow that is one old fillet strip. Usually they just pull right out in one swift yank, then it's just a matter of cutting the rubber lip to remove the glass.
Got home from work and took out the back window tonight. The log rubber was harder than the windshield was. Took about 20 min but its out and not broken just a couple notes about what I found. The cover for the rear shelf went up under the gasket and I think it wicked moisture because where it was I have rust. The other thing is under the side trim between the side and rear windows there is foam rubber? It had a black headliner and from what I have read they are all off white. So that could have been aftermarket. Anyway here is tonight's show.
Found this while surfing. This is my target look for our car.
Cool look!
What was the original color?
Quote from: Mudhen on April 24, 2014, 03:24:10 AM
Cool look!
What was the original color?
You can see it in some of the photos. It's that light blue sort of like the one in the photo.
Went out to the pate swap meet this morning and found this 10" wheel for $15. I grabbed it so I have a guide for size. I got home and am doing some exploration with a sanding disc. Front wing is going to be replaced along with the panel the door hinge bolts to. I'm just trying to find the end of the bad now.
How far into the door jam does the replacement panel go? My front edge is pushed in and has put a twist in the first step but it doesn't go past that. I know it's a golf cart tire but I do like the width.
Just a tad bit of filler huh.. Which panel are you asking about?
I need the left wing and the panel behind it that the door hinge bolts go thru that's the one with all the bondo. In your store section it's called an a panel external hinge right hand side.
The inner and outter A-panels are what the doors bolt to. They just adjoin up against the outline of the door frame via a lip.
I can probably bring back the one part to where it belongs but the part of the wing where it's pushed in that is toast. If the panel has a lip on the door edge side I'm golden. If not I'll have to make a little .25 by about 3" piece to weld in.
The inner a panels I have come with the blockoff plate under the windscreen scuttle corner too. Once you get the a panels off you can inspect the door frame and kick panels.
I went out after dinner and continued prospecting. After busting out some do the bondo I found it was torn at the lower hinge holes. I started planing my cuts for damage removal. I'm going just above the upper hinge down the edge of the door jam and slight angle forward at where the door corner is. One last question for the night. What makes these rear drums cost so much? I was looking at brake parts at one of the on line shops and they must think these are Porsche brakes.
Who were you looking at? I can get the spaced drums for about 40 bucks a pop then shipping.
You need to sell yours to MM. That's where I saw the Porsche priced ones. Check the link.
http://www.minimania.com/part/SUPERFINS/Superfin-Aluminum-Alloy-Brake-Drum-pair (http://www.minimania.com/part/SUPERFINS/Superfin-Aluminum-Alloy-Brake-Drum-pair)
Mm is expensive. Look here for those. http://minispares.com/search/classic/superfins.aspx (http://minispares.com/search/classic/superfins.aspx)
Genuine pair would be about $170 after the exchange rate. I have a pair in my shop but they're going on my truck.
Got a fresh cutoff wheel today and got the A panel ruffed out until I get the replacement. I got the right wing off. I also worked on pulling the dents in the jam out. I have then to where I'm happy there is just a small dip left that you would have to be looking and know it was there to find it. A slight skin coat of filler it will be golden.
The guy who did the prior work on here didn't know how to weld. The wing was held on with pop rivets and where he did weld it was way overkill or they broke I'm trying to save as much factory sheet metal as I can. There are a couple flanges I'll need to patch in like the lower front panel.
It appears as though you don't have inner a-panels, just the hinges. 8.gif
The other side is the same way
Mine may have never gotten them. Looking at the 1959 mini page on the early ones they started at Morris body number 6481 and later for Austin but they have no record of just when. They show a service letter how to install them. Mine was a way early 60 the glass date code is from 59 so it could have missed out on this.
That crossed my mind. They don't look like a hack job install. Just odd not seeing the panel that goes with them. I took 3 layers of apanel off a car before.
I can get a hoist from a bud at work this weekend so I figured I would get a start on moving junk to pull the engine. Had a little suprise its locked up. I figured it would be. So after I get the body all sorted Ill have to figure out rebuild or upsize? Im thinking gane a couple hundered CC or so. I just would like what ever to fit the stock trans so i dont have to cut up the tunnel for a shifter. also I remember reading something about datecodes on the master cyls, anyone know where I look?
Ok riddle me this.... I pulled the head off and thought I would find a ton of rust in the cylinders. But all I find could be wiped off and there isn't even a ridge at the top of the cylinders. There is rust in the 3/4 intake port. And is it normal for the intake pushrods to stay in the head?
What wheels/tires do you have on it right now?
As of this moment it has 4" casters on the platform. It came with Sea Doo trailer tires and wheels that we sold on Craig's list. The wide tire in the photo is a 205-50-10 DOT rated golf car tire good up to 86 MPH. I doubt this will go that fast with a 850 if we go back with that size engine. It's just going to be for bombing around Plano when we finish it one day.
Cool. Maybe I'll see you at the Cars & Coffee in Plano sometime when I'm in town.
I got an email from one of the guys on 1959 mini register today. I had contacted them to help figure out just how early our car is. I recieved two emails back from them with some help. this is what they said.
Hi Larry,
You do indeed have an early US car, Austin 12530 will be approximately the
2nd week of January 1960. So it is a pre US launch car (being in March 60)
and the body number is right on the cusp of 59/60, does it have long slice
type drain holes in the front corners of the gutter? I.e. not a drilled
hole.
Regards
Bill
and this...
Hi Larry,
We were at Gaydon yesterday and checked your car out in the factory records.
It lists it as Vin. AA2S7L 12530. Body number 10093. exported to USA On
21.1.60.
Best regards
Trevor.
WOW!! That's some good stuff right there.
Cool car! 4.gif
Wow busy day here in the dog house. Started by changing spark plugs on my boys F150. All the bad stories are true. When that was done we. Rolled the mini from the storage bay into the working area. We set up a redneck engine hoist. It didn't work out so good and ended up blasting over to a friends to borrow his real hoist we got the engine out and everything put up. Now sipping on some nice cold sweet tea
Hi, I followed you over from the MM forum as I was interested in your restoration. I believe I told you that I have 60 Austin 850 also that was built on 20 Jan 1960 and despatched 28 Jan 1960 about a week later. I was thinking about a place for people to follow my resto and may add mine to the list. I'm going on two years now just have a good start on the body.
Anyway you work pretty fast. I think you had some questions on the master cylinders. You last photo shows the MC's well. While I'm certainly no expert I've spent a lot of time at the 59 Registry studying 59 correct parts. The Brake MC appears to be the later type bean can with tapered to and plastic cap. The clutch MC however appears to be a 59 correct part. I think you will find a metal cap and the top is a threaded fitting that can be unscrewed to expose the guts. I believe it is somewhat rare.
The 59 coded windows also have a single hole where the catch fits. Later ones had two holes. I was missing the LH front catch and glass was broken so replaced with later two holer. Single hole catches are hard to find I think.
If there's any photos you need let me know.
Cool post up photos over here. I have ordered up the heratage records for this one. I'm hopping that it was built on Jan 14. It's a senttamental thing. We plan to keep this one if it was built on that date. A bunch of the other numbers in this car match dates for things in our family. I need to go do some more reading over at the 59 site to crack the generator date code. I don't think this is the original engine but the trans fits the target dates. But it is an 850 and found out today it's not seized up like we thought. I think my wrench was hitting a bolt I didn't see when we first checked. That being said I'm going to look for the correct head and carb.
You may want to try this http://www.minimania.com/cars4Sale/11545/Part__Mini_850_A_Series_Engine_-_nee (http://www.minimania.com/cars4Sale/11545/Part__Mini_850_A_Series_Engine_-_nee)
I inquired about it. I was looking for an engine with a 5 digit SN close to 13xxx . he said his was SN 14xxx so was close. Found out it was in pieces and would need rebuild. He wanted $300. Shipping from California could be expensive. It would have been period correct but decided it was too expensive and didn't persue it.
Generator should have the date stamped on the frame. I have one dated 1 60 under the LUCAS name.
My gen is date stamped 5 - 60 and my engine is 352XX so i would bet the gen is the one from the engine. Im holding for the cert to see what engine I need and how far off his is but may just look into the head and intake stuff.
Yeah the cert will show exact Engine SN I would say probably around 11xxx. Does yours have clutch adjusting nut (Shown in 59 mini registry)? I didn't try very hard to get a close SN. Mine I think is about 68 vintage althoiugh I do have a running June 60 Morris engine.
Conventional wisdom or mini forums is to spend money on better engines 998, 1275 etc. rather than 850's. Rebuilding them costs as much as later engines and parts are easier to come by they say. Not sure if correct engine or period correct adds much value.
Nope no adjusting nut on the clutch. Also if you look at the memo about the gas tank drain I just missed out on getting that update also.
Yeah My tank was missing so I replaced it with one with drain tube although I may have to look to see if it has the hole in the body.
What a mess. I tried sand in the touch up sand blaster and it plugged it up and worked like crap. So on the advice of one of my co-workers I tried baking soda. I have that junk all over everything. I'm using my leaf blower to clean out the shop 50.gif. I think I'll just take it over to Wylie to the hot rod place and have them blast the thing. I'm going to work hard on it this comming weekend to finish stripping it down to a shell. Then build a rotisary to spin it on before I can take it anyplace for blasting.
Quote from: sparetimetoys on May 14, 2014, 02:30:35 PM
What a mess. I tried sand in the touch up sand blaster and it plugged it up and worked like crap. So on the advice of one of my co-workers I tried baking soda. I have that junk all over everything. I'm using my leaf blower to clean out the shop 50.gif. I think I'll just take it over to Wylie to the hot rod place and have them blast the thing. I'm going to work hard on it this comming weekend to finish stripping it down to a shell. Then build a rotisary to spin it on before I can take it anyplace for blasting.
Didn't strip off any paint at all or just too much of a mess?
I have a dual tank blaster from Eastwood...have yet to try soda in it. Getting the sandblaster side to work properly has been hard enough..
It took off the paint just fine but made more mess than its worth. Im going to hit Northern Tool this weekend and get the bag of blasting media and just be done with it. That way I can hit the small sopts I want to work on before taking it to the big strippers.
Nice drive up to Tulsa and back to pick up my parts today, only hit one hard downpour for about a mile then back to flying low. We got the parts all put away and I looked up the head I picked up and it for an A+ series engine now I just need to see if it will work? But it has the same size valves and chambers I should have so I need to figure what makes a plus head??
Glad you made it back ok. Sounds like that head will work just fine from the guys on minimania. Glad I could be of service!
Yea from what I get out of what they are saying is I should be good with unleaded gas with this head. I think I'll look into gasket sets and fuel lines that are ok with the ethonal blends we now get. That way it may not be the factory engine but it's one the proper size modified to run on today's fuels.
I joke about having a hornets nest for wireing but this is rediculous!
We tore down the bad door today and found a couple good things. I have brass hinges and the bottom of the door is solid. Does anyone know what this thing is that was mmounted just below the window?
Mine doesn't have the thing below the window so don't know what it is but looks like a ball and socket mount for a mirror? or such.
I have the brass hinges also. Are the hinge pins tight or worn?
Quote from: tsumini on May 26, 2014, 05:03:28 PM
Mine doesn't have the thing below the window so don't know what it is but looks like a ball and socket mount for a mirror? or such.
I have the brass hinges also. Are the hinge pins tight or worn?
The hinges are a little worn but a saw a rebuild kit someplace that looks easy. The thing on the door is inside the car. I'm going to try to strip down my other door this week because our good boss is on this weekend and I can bring them into work. If they fit in the landing gear blasting cabinet I'll have them down to bare metal in no time.
I took the right door into work today and spent some quality time at the bead blaster. It fits inside the cabennit we do gear parts in. I had to sift the media out when I was finished but it was well worth it. I need to sand down the rest then it will need a little hammer and dolly work and a skim coat of filler but I can save it.
That must be a big blast cabinet!!! Lucky. Did you use straight sand or something a little less harsh?
Quote from: Mudhen on June 01, 2014, 04:11:03 AM
That must be a big blast cabinet!!! Lucky. Did you use straight sand or something a little less harsh?
It's 4' X 4' X 3' it's made to take 737 parts. It has glass beads that keep getting smaller as you go. Eventually it's so fine it gets sucked out the exhaust vent and you dump in another 50 lbs.
My heratage cert came in today. My VIN and body number match. My engine is wrong # but I figured that out awhile ago. The car was speedwell blue with grey cloth. It was built on 12-Jan-1960 and shipped 21-Jan-1960 it's options we're a heater
Quote from: sparetimetoys on June 04, 2014, 03:41:04 PM
My heratage cert came in today. My VIN and body number match. My engine is wrong # but I figured that out awhile ago. The car was speedwell blue with grey cloth. It was built on 12-Jan-1960 and shipped 21-Jan-1960 it's options we're a heater
Cool stuff. 4.gif
Are they still 'signed' by someone? If so, who?
Quote from: Mudhen on June 04, 2014, 05:35:15 PM
Quote from: sparetimetoys on June 04, 2014, 03:41:04 PM
My heratage cert came in today. My VIN and body number match. My engine is wrong # but I figured that out awhile ago. The car was speedwell blue with grey cloth. It was built on 12-Jan-1960 and shipped 21-Jan-1960 it's options we're a heater
Cool stuff. 4.gif
Are they still 'signed' by someone? If so, who?
Yes they are signed but I can't read it.
Thanks. A friend of my family used to do them, but that's not him...
Pat
Quote from: sparetimetoys on June 04, 2014, 03:41:04 PM
My heratage cert came in today. My VIN and body number match. My engine is wrong # but I figured that out awhile ago. The car was speedwell blue with grey cloth. It was built on 12-Jan-1960 and shipped 21-Jan-1960 it's options we're a heater
Cool Your car 8 days older than mine. Did the cert say deluxe?
If you are interested the British Heritage will answer one question for 5 pounds i think. For instance I had a Morris chassis with an engine I thought to be original. I provide the VIN number and asked for the original engine Number. They came back with the engine number installed so I confirmed it original to the chassis. You could provide the engine SN and find the chassis number I believe. It may even be a Morris engine.
Yep they said delux. The engine installed while being a low number ie off by a couple ten thousand from what the cert says. I found a complete 1275 with trans for dirt cheap so for now I think I'll go that way and have some pep in the car. Down the road if I sell it who ever gets it can rebuild the 850 and put it in. I'm not going to do anything to it that isn't reversible.
Had a helper in the garage today. She said she wants to help and learn. So I broke out the little DA and we mixed up some bondo. She said what if I mess up. I said we just fix it no big deal.
You need to add one of these to your arsenal. Ingersol Rand inline sander.
Quote from: 94touring on June 09, 2014, 03:13:25 PM
You need to add one of these to your arsenal. Ingersol Rand inline sander.
It's around here in a box someplace :-[
I can't tell you how much easier it is to block sand with one of these. Avoid the harbor freight ones, they break and break quick. I invested in this and a couple boxes of the sanding paper strips that go for it. Well worth it though.
Yea back in my 914 days these made sanding those slab sides so nice. It was raining here today and I had about a quart of water in the compressor when we finished. I need to get a inline water separator for this one. I didn't need one in the old shop it was about 25 feet from the compressor in the house garage to the shop the line cooled the air enough then it went into a big air pig with all the taps on top and a little weep hole in the bottom. I never had a moisture problem.
Quote from: 94touring on June 09, 2014, 03:13:25 PM
You need to add one of these to your arsenal. Ingersol Rand inline sander.
FWIW Be careful I stuck my finger where it wasn't supposed to go (twice) and lost fingernails and pride.
Been out working on the door. I have some more low spots to redo.
Dumb ass rookie mistake outlined low spots to show the kiddo and forgot to revive marks before putting the bondo on. Bunch of bleed thru I have to get out before any paint.
While rearranging the garages today I had two rollers sort of. Also had to see the wheels on my car.
So while moving stuff around I failed to notice the dog making a run for it. It couldn't have bumped into the truck any better.
Ha! Did you say you're using the external hinges off the parts car? If so, what was wrong with yours?
Quote from: 94touring on June 24, 2014, 02:12:06 PM
Ha! Did you say you're using the external hinges off the parts car? If so, what was wrong with yours?
Just the left side unless I can find the bushing kit. My left hinges have a ton of slop but they are the brass the parts car doesn't look to be brass. I left the right door on the car. But kept the Handles off the doors boot and ignition switch hoping I can get a key that works them all.
Quote from: sparetimetoys on June 24, 2014, 01:26:18 PM
So while moving stuff around I failed to notice the dog making a run for it. It couldn't have bumped into the truck any better.
Definitely put in an insurance claim on it...hit it so hard the hood and grill disintegrated and the motor fell out!
This thing is on my trailer in OKC right now...
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2904/14580372282_7297c9ea6f_o.jpg)
Glad to see you made it home ok. After you left my back got worse so I went to the ER and got it checked. They took x-rays and said nothing bad they think it's a pinched nerve or something along that line. But gave me good drugs to take.
Sorry to hear that. Maybe the drugs will be a plus.
Hey, before I forget, and I will forget, how soon do you need this door skinned?
Anytime between oh say now and January will be fine.
Perfect.
No more red neck engine hoist!! 71.gif I found a real collapsible engine hoist about ten minutes from the house for dirt cheap. Now it lives in my garage 4.gif. I look forward to putting it to the test this weekend moving my engines out of the way so I can get back to work on the dog.
Quote from: sparetimetoys on June 04, 2014, 03:41:04 PM
My heratage cert came in today. My VIN and body number match. My engine is wrong # but I figured that out awhile ago. The car was speedwell blue with grey cloth. It was built on 12-Jan-1960 and shipped 21-Jan-1960 it's options we're a heater
Cool to see a couple more early cars getting restored on the site.
My car was built and shipped on the same days as yours. Also speedwell blue and gray cloth mine was a De-luxe would the gray cloth have been gray flek? I have been trying to figure that out for mine. Most my parts are 12 of 1959 date code.
the body number for mine is 10013. Details of factory fitted equipment - heater
In case you wanted to know the signature on the heritage cert posted is Richard Bacchus.
Edit. By the way my vin ends with 12504 and my car has the slotted type drain holes are the drilled type early or later cars?
Any questions or pics you might need let me know.
Jeff
Just wanted too add that the code for speedwell blue in Diamont UNO single stage polyurethane paint is BU01. Started painting the underside of mine yesterdayhttps://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Q7FmqBHmaY8/U9Q6B_Gk6XI/AAAAAAAAC9M/1XUF6CCaIvA/w725-h544-no/20140726_162936.jpg (https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Q7FmqBHmaY8/U9Q6B_Gk6XI/AAAAAAAAC9M/1XUF6CCaIvA/w725-h544-no/20140726_162936.jpg) https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-L8qWcarNdK0/U9Q6XpGGpmI/AAAAAAAAC98/5JlphzjonBk/w408-h544-no/20140726_163042.jpg (https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-L8qWcarNdK0/U9Q6XpGGpmI/AAAAAAAAC98/5JlphzjonBk/w408-h544-no/20140726_163042.jpg)
77.gif Wow how cool is that. We are just 24 cars apart. Thanks for the paint codes ill have to see if the little paint shop here in plano can match it. My car maverick got the drain slots cut in the front of the gutter. I havy the list of the updates and it didn't get many at all. I'm going back stock other than the wheels I just don't like skinny tires and hubcaps.
Quote from: jeff10049 on July 28, 2014, 12:23:46 AM
Just wanted too add that the code for speedwell blue in Diamont UNO single stage polyurethane paint is BU01. Started painting the underside of mine yesterdayhttps://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Q7FmqBHmaY8/U9Q6B_Gk6XI/AAAAAAAAC9M/1XUF6CCaIvA/w725-h544-no/20140726_162936.jpg (https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Q7FmqBHmaY8/U9Q6B_Gk6XI/AAAAAAAAC9M/1XUF6CCaIvA/w725-h544-no/20140726_162936.jpg) https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-L8qWcarNdK0/U9Q6XpGGpmI/AAAAAAAAC98/5JlphzjonBk/w408-h544-no/20140726_163042.jpg (https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-L8qWcarNdK0/U9Q6XpGGpmI/AAAAAAAAC98/5JlphzjonBk/w408-h544-no/20140726_163042.jpg)
Jeff I have a 1960 Austin 850 built Jan 20,1960. I was looking at your first photo showing underside of floor. Is that the original floor or was it replaced? What do you use for plugging the two holes (about 2 in Dia?). I have six of these holes which were plugged using aluminum plugs which I can't find or referenced anywhere.
Quote from: tsumini on July 29, 2014, 10:23:01 AM
Quote from: jeff10049 on July 28, 2014, 12:23:46 AM
Just wanted too add that the code for speedwell blue in Diamont UNO single stage polyurethane paint is BU01. Started painting the underside of mine yesterdayhttps://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Q7FmqBHmaY8/U9Q6B_Gk6XI/AAAAAAAAC9M/1XUF6CCaIvA/w725-h544-no/20140726_162936.jpg (https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Q7FmqBHmaY8/U9Q6B_Gk6XI/AAAAAAAAC9M/1XUF6CCaIvA/w725-h544-no/20140726_162936.jpg) https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-L8qWcarNdK0/U9Q6XpGGpmI/AAAAAAAAC98/5JlphzjonBk/w408-h544-no/20140726_163042.jpg (https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-L8qWcarNdK0/U9Q6XpGGpmI/AAAAAAAAC98/5JlphzjonBk/w408-h544-no/20140726_163042.jpg)
Jeff I have a 1960 Austin 850 built Jan 20,1960. I was looking at your first photo showing underside of floor. Is that the original floor or was it replaced? What do you use for plugging the two holes (about 2 in Dia?). I have six of these holes which were plugged using aluminum plugs which I can't find or referenced anywhere.
If we toss in Ricks that makes four of them with in just over a month of each other.
Today's project clean up old aircleaner a little quality time in the bead blaster and a coat of paint. Not concorse quality but I'm running it thru beritt Jackson either.
Looks Nice!
Did you get/apply the decals? I asked a stupid question on another forum whether the Cooper S air cleaner was worth more than the standard aircleaner. Found out the Brand name was Coopers. :-[
I didn't know it had decals there wasn't any evidence of any I saw.
her's a pic of mine from '60 Morris.
I'll have to look into that.
Jeff I have a 1960 Austin 850 built Jan 20,1960. I was looking at your first photo showing underside of floor. Is that the original floor or was it replaced? What do you use for plugging the two holes (about 2 in Dia?). I have six of these holes which were plugged using aluminum plugs which I can't find or referenced anywhere.
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Back floor is original front pans are new but correct I think. I was going to use the flexible plastic plugs shown here http://www.mcmaster.com/#sheet-metal-plugs/=t836kw (http://www.mcmaster.com/#sheet-metal-plugs/=t836kw) to plug the holes on mine they have steel ones too but not aluminum that I could find. I'm going for a correct car but not too worried about the floor plugs being correct.
Jeff
Quote from: tsumini on August 06, 2014, 02:07:50 PM
her's a pic of mine from '60 Morris.
I emailed Coopers to see if they know anyone reproducing the placard.
I was lucky enough to save the print on my air cleaner I touched up the black around it and then cleared the whole thing came out nice. I think but not sure that it my have been screen printed on, could also have been a stamp.
Someone here restores the heater boxes and screen prints the text back on those. I don't know a lot about screen printing but I wonder if a small curved screen frame could be made to re print these?
Other option if you don't find a decal a local graphics shop could reproduce that printed on clear without much hassle or at least the ones around here could.
On ebay.uk.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Coopers-Air-Box-Filter-Sticker-Decal-60s-Vintage-Style-Austin-BMC-Mini-/201144393114?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2ed523dd9a (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Coopers-Air-Box-Filter-Sticker-Decal-60s-Vintage-Style-Austin-BMC-Mini-/201144393114?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2ed523dd9a)
The one on eBay has different wording. I wonder if it changed after a couple of years?
Come to think of it I think mine is screen printed. May try to touch it up.
I found a placard guy to make the coopers aircleaner placard. This is the proof photo he sent me. They will be on clear so the black from the aircleaner shows thru.
His web site is planbillustration.com He should have them up in a week or so.
Ok one door skinned for you. I even cleaned up the surface rust on the back of the lip and put a coat of paint on it for the next owner.
Very cool looks great. Thanks.
Thanks. Everything lined up, it was rather easy.
Yep she is a good old solid car.
Got the door in my car, got the box it needs to go in into my car, but with the door in the box I can't fit it in my car. Trying to borrow a bigger boat to haul this to fedex. I've got 3 inches too much....story of my life.
Quote from: 94touring on September 16, 2014, 10:36:35 AM
Got the door in my car, got the box it needs to go in into my car, but with the door in the box I can't fit it in my car. Trying to borrow a bigger boat to haul this to fedex. I've got 3 inches too much....story of my life.
lol...dude, look through the top of the bifocals, not the bottom...
The door just got here looks great other than the corner the FedEx guy dropped the box on. Not a big deal about 10 / 15 min and it'll be good. Thanks much.
G d it!!! 50.gif. It knocked back out ok though? I insured it if it's a real problem.
I got called back into work so ill see how it fixes Monday my next day off. It shouldn't be too bad.
What I might suggest is taking a thick piece if flat steel that's say 6x6 inches, lay it over the area and put a clamp on it to draw it up flush. That's what I do when I crimp the lip with vice grips.
Loaded the old dog on the trailer and down the road to McKinney she went to the new owners shop. I told him to keep you guys up to date and this us a good place for info and pointers.
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Just to update you guys on how the new guy is doing with the dog. She sits in a corner of his shop still on the roller cart I built for it just like the day he took it home. A friend from work knows him and he has not touched the car from the day he got it.
Sounds like he's still ahead of me. LOL
I know a guy with a 68 mini pickup having the same problem.