Any guesses on what becomes of this one?
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1646)
Skinny 10" tires with wide white walls, large mesh visor over the windshield like in AUS. Real light blue paint with white roof. Very stock old style interior.
Wow pretty accurate if I were to keep it for myself. I would paint it very light blue with a white roof and it's even the single pod gauge.
I'm working on it...the picture in my head is starting to come together.
Its been awhile but I do have some sample paint in the shop, just struggling to get time to paint a panel to send off to the owner for approval. I have seats in to reupholster also. And this will also be getting sanded up this week for filler primer.
Ok now that flur is officially gone I've begun the early stages of paint selection on this car. The owner is looking into maroon B, so I painted up a test panel and some test stripes to mail off for him to decide on.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1800)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1801)
Gonna have to see this one in person. Looks like two different colors depending on the angle in the photos.
Initial thought.....I think its going to work just fine.
Interesting how angles affect the shade.
Got the car in the shop and started really looking it over. I need to go through and do some extra welding and clean a few things up. Got the first round of block sanding done, a few minor dings and low spots, nothing crazy.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1803)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1804)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1805)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1806)
The test panel arrived today. That's it! Classic Maroon B is the winner.
Cool deal. Did the bkack and white stripe combo work for you still?
Oh yea. I like the white and black.
Did some body work on her today. I took down a few areas on the sides where the previous owner did some repairs to check things out. One side was a bit warped in so banged it out best I could and refilled. Filled in a number of other minor dents and will continue sanding tomorrow for filler primer on these areas.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1827)
Just tons and tons of sanding today. They must have had a roof rack on it at some point because there were 2 dents on opposite sides on the roof. It's been de-dented, filled, and ready for some filler primer sanding in the troubled areas.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1847)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1844)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1848)
No pics, but the sanding continued all day! Filled a little extra in a couple spots. The fine sanding will commence tomorrow.
Got it on its side so I could start prepping the bottom for paint. I ended up spending most of the day rewelding seams. The previous guy wasn't good at welding unfortunately. Gona need to seam seal over a good bit of ugly stuff, but I'm making sure its strong none the less.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1876)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1877)
I spent the last 2 days welding over previous work and prepping the bottom. We have paint on at last.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1878)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1879)
Looking good! I hope it is going smoothly for you.
Yeah not too bad. A few minor patches and just a lot of extra welding. Have more sanding on the exterior to go through for final prep. It's just about there as is. Tomorrow I need to mask off the bottom and get it back on the dolly.
We'll need to order parts galore here soon too. The rear subby is about a month and a half out in a crate. I'll need to get the interior guy working on seat covers soon too.
All the holes on the bottom taped off and the bottom masked and put back on the cart today.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1885)
Still sanding away on this thing. The roof is ready for paint. In fact I started to get ready to paint it but I'm running low on clear coat. Tomorrow I figured I'll take a day off and get supplies. I also went through and removed the craptastic seam sealer (I think it was just silicon) that was betweenall the front end seams. All its going to do is come loose and crack the paint in the seams. So picked away and pulled that junk out and had to do a little re-clamping up front to tighten things up. Much better now.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1898)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1899)
Tossed on the doors today to double check they were ok with the A-panels. Everything is fine. The doors however will need new bottoms skin sections. The one door is probably fine but figured might as well take it apart and redo it for the hell of it while we're at it. Aside from that I did a lot of sanding and wrapping up small spots that needed some extra attention.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1902)
Just about done on the exterior with all the final sanding. My arms got a workout the past couple days on this thing. 20.gif
Looking good.
One of my favorite Maroon paints is 2008 Lexus Salsa Red Pearl, #3Q3. I saw it on a 49 Chevrolet at a show in the US.
Got some de rusting started in the engine bay. Exterior is ready for paint. Need to do the interior first though.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1906)
Quote from: 94touring on March 28, 2014, 07:55:58 PM
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1898)
What goes in the seams...just seam sealer? Or do you use fiberglass?
Thx
I paint them and that's it. Sealer tends to crack.
There is a sealer that is recommended for that. Paintable and adds strength. Eastwood and 3M have products. Here I have a local version.
Quote from: 94touring on April 03, 2014, 03:42:20 AM
I paint them and that's it. Sealer tends to crack.
When you have gaps like mine, you can't put enough paint it. ::)
So...thanks Richard! Will look into it.
I keep the seams tight. Personally I think it's better. I didn't do the metal work on this car but the scuttles look good.
I'm trying to post pics of the new white roof but the server is having some kind of issue...so until that's resolved, just imagine a shiny white roof.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1910)
Mmm. Shiny.
Yes, very. Did you notice I've lined the paint booth walls with plastic. Where the tools and paint supplies are I have extra plastic that I can drape. Easy to spray down now and reduces dust particles.
I hadn't noticed. But that is nice. I can only imagine what a pain dust control would be without that. You have a filtered recirculation system right?
Yep inlet and outlet filters. A high powered fan pushing air through a 24x24" filter, outlet on the diagonal corner. Works great.
Interior is ready for paint, but as I pointed out in another thread my paint booth is stuffed with cabinets that are being stained. :(
So my intranets is down but I have pics to post when it's back up. Interior is painted. I also fixed up a door. Sure would be nice to post pics. 11.gif
Alrighty, where was I. She is essentially ready for paint. I will do one more light sanding and clean up the engine bay a hair more before I do the basecoat/clearcoat. Still working on doors, and I need to prep the bonnet and boot lid, but those are small potatoes.
I didn't like the primer on the inside areas that are visible once all the interior is in. Hand sanded them back down to paint. Very unpleasant task.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1917)
Interiror color in there.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1920)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1919)
Exterior as it sits right now. Needs a light nub sanding and one or two spots need minor attention to be dead ass perfect, nothing crazy.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1926)
Door repair. It was a mess. Had to Fab corners. Note the door hinge I found under the skin! Score!
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1922)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1923)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1924)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1927)
I wonder if the owner knows this thing is painted ;D It turned out amazing.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1934)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1936)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1937)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1938)
Looks great. Really digging the color combo.
Oh I know...I may be quiet..but I'm always watching. >:D
It looks simply amazing. Well done sir!
What's the process for paint? How many coats of each?
2 coats basecoat gets desired coverage, then it's 3 coats of clear. My paint booth doubles nicely as an oven too. Have my shop lights and kick on the heater, gets up to 100 in a matter of minutes. This thing was touchable in 15 minutes or so. Really no orange peel to speak of and minimal dust nubs. I'm very satisfied with my setup.
Coming along nicely.
Thanks Richard.
Also on these doors, I put a nice bead of seam sealer between the skin and the back panel of the door. This will prevent water from resting in between the two which is obviously what causes them to rust on the bottoms over time.
I used a long-neck sprayer to spray an undercoating all over the inside of my Corvair doors. Makes them feel more solid, too. Of course I did it before the final paint, so I didn;t need to protect much.
(http://www.widman.biz/Corvair/images/Month_10/Painting_undercoating_inside_doors.jpg)
Took a few pics in sun to show color contrast better.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1943)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1942)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1941)
Not a whole lot to report on lately other than I just made an enormous purchase for all the new parts that go on this car. 4.gif 62.gif
Seat covers are being put together. This is the pattern we're going with. I used this same guy to make my last set and was very pleased with the outcome.
One shipment of aftermarket parts and a few other needed items showed up today. Many more to come.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1976)
Got a big invoice today for a number of parts coming from Leacy. There are a handful of items they are out of stock on, trying to resolve that. Still waiting on parts from Minisport as well. Only thing I've gotten so far has been the order from Minispares.
The interior and suspension showed up. Minisport still hasn't sent the headliner and other parts however.
Ok the seats are done. They turned out fantastic! I want to do mine these look so nice. I did order an extra set for myself luckily. I tore the rear subframe apart also and had time to do rear bearings. The old ones had ball bearings on one side and roller bearings on the other. One side was also seized. I was hoping to reuse some brake components but I think I'm just going to order whole new assemblies. Tomorrow I plan to clean up things, paint, and put back together on the new subby. Felt like I got a lot done today on this car!
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2021)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2022)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2023)
The new interior looks good.
That's going to look really nice. Getting excited!
The salvageable rear end components are being cleaned for paint, and another shipment of parts arrived. Here is the bling.
I'm liking this car more and more with each picture. 71.gif
That's some nice bling
Headliner in, I need to trim it. Tomorrow I will start on glass.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2024)
Front and rear windshields in. The front was a pain, the rear was easy. I have the wrong seals for the side windows, so will have to come back to those.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2026)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2027)
Got the parts in the rear cleaned up and painted/cleared. One of the trunions required drilling out of a stud that was stuck inside the thing. Otherwise went well. The shop is overflowing with cabinets again, but hoping to get room in there tomorrow to start building the rear subby.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2028)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2029)
Nice. Are you going to do new bushings? Been wondering about that...if it's something you just do new of, or only if needed...
What did you use to paint the trailing arms?
Oh yes all new bushings!
Same paint that's on your roof Cameron. I have plenty of black around the shop and I spray a slightly lower grade clear so it's not costing me a small fortune.
Hmmm. Might have to get something going in my garage. I've been debating painting my subframes or just paying to powdercoat. But the whole point of my build was to do as much as I can myself. Obviously I can't paint like a pro like you, but I can definitely paint suspension parts.
Any worry that the paint will chip easier off the arms?
A quart of Dupont Nason epoxy primer with activator, quart of Nason black with reducer and quart of Nason clear and activator would go a very long ways. It's still quality enough some people paint the exterior of the car with it, I typically do undersides and floors with their clear. It's essentially the same as the top teir dupont paint just a notch lower at half the cost. It adheres the same as any other quality paint. I've always been very satisfied with it.
You guys ever use POR? I've never done powder coat but I would think it's close...
I have not.
We have some expired teflon paint Im thinking of painting the underside of the car with this. I have used it on the hull of my brother in laws ski doo and after three years of running it up on the beach there is not a scratch on it. Only thing is its Boeing wing grey ::) 8.gif
Well I have about half the rear subby done. I ran into an issue with the one rear radius arm. The bearing came apart as I cleaned out the inside some more to grease it before assembly....so I'm having to order a new radius kit. I figure I'll order some new brake lines rather than make them myself while I'm at it. (edit new brakes lines not available so never mind) I did happen to find new rear brake assemblies on my shelf. Started digging through boxes to figure out where to start. I put on brand new headlights, rubber seals, and turn signals.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2033)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2034)
Rear quarter windows are in and what a pita they were. I've always done hinged style which take two minutes. I finally did the string trick and got them in. Also required lube to squeeze the new rubber in the frames. Also have the engine loose and ready to dig into the front subby.
When I was disassembling my old rear subby it took me awhile to dig out the 'pin' that goes behind the rubber cone - is that thing even necessary?
Probably not describing the part correctly - but in your pic, on the unfinished side, you see the hole under where the rubber cone goes...don't recall seeing it for sale on any parts sites - thinking maybe just unnecessary...
Not familiar with any pins. 8.gif
Still waiting on the swivel arm bearing kit. However got the rest of the front suspension off the engine and tore into it. We have new bearings, new cross drilled rotors, pads, hoses, and new ball joints. Had to dig through some of my piles of extras to steal a few things that were missing off this car.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2040)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2041)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2042)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2043)
Front subframe dismantled and new cones and hi los installed. Engine taken apart, cleaned up, and repainted. Need to grab some more black to do the side case.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2057)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2058)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2059)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2049)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2061)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2055)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2056)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2052)
Making a lot of progress! This is great.
Yeah hoping the radius arm kit gets here so I can finish off the rear subby. I need to try and fab up some fuel and brakes lines from front to back, then I can get on the subbies and continue on from there.
Head back on and torqued up, gaps set, other items cleaned and fitted. Pretty much ready to be dropped in. Was missing an alternator so I stole one off of my shelf. I made that coil bracket also out of some polished aluminum laying out back.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2062)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2064)
Quote from: 94touring on July 20, 2014, 09:47:50 AM
Not familiar with any pins. 8.gif
This little guy:
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-Kd4sdLr/0/L/smugshot_8604135-L.jpg)
That goes in here:
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-bsHH4TP/0/L/smugshot_7144796-L.jpg)
Rear radius arm kit finally got here the other day. Don't know how many of you have done one of these, but unless you have a ream the exact diameter it's probably impossible to do. Luckily I had a piece of pipe the right size laying around. Got the other side of the rear subby together. In the morning I will fabricate the rest of the brake lines and get this thing on the car, well right after I run brake and fuel lines from rear to front. Front subby is ready to go in also, however I don't have new bushings like I thought was in my orders for the lower arms. But those can wait. I've been digging through boxes of parts and keep finding things that are missing. I guess that comes with the territory of buying a car in boxes. I tore apart the master cylinder and will order a new seal kit for it, as it's the dual line and I'd rather run that than the single line I have in the shop. Windshield wiper motor is being soaked to be taken apart and redone as well. Lots and lots of little things.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2066)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2067)
I just got the rebuild kits for my radius arms the other day - have blasted/POR'd the arms and was going to try to find a machine shop to get a reaming from... :-X
What did you mean you had a pipe the right size??
I had some scrap pipe that was the perfect size to hit out the old bearings and plastic tube. Took the pipe and used a hammer to bust everything out.
Do you have the ream?
I have one that I made into a reaming tool for those bushings. I can bring it by or ship it to anyone that wants to borrow it.
What size reamer does it take? I may know of a place that just may have a reamer or two laying around. :-[
13/16th"
I got the one with the longest shaft possible and used the bearing as a support for the reamer. Drilled and tapped on the back to connnect a bolt to drive the reamer with an electric drill.
Merlin, I may have to borrow that from you in the near future. I'll be doing this job rather soon and didn't know I'd need to be reaming anything. Lesson learned.
Rear subby is officially done. I had to go get a flare tool to do the brake lines. Way back when I did flur I rented the tool, it was broken, I told the guys and showed them where. So fast forward all this time later, I go there rent it, open it up, still broken. 50.gif Ended up just buying one from the other store. Anyways, had to fab up a couple pins for the arms for the hand brakes and go through spares to find some fittings that would work on the lines. Also lost in the deal was the hand brake brackets off the rear hubs, so I had to go through some old parts and dig out a pair. I was hoping to put the subframe on the car, but ran out of steam after it was all said and done. Back in a handful of days...
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2071)
Subframes in. Brake and fuel lines and steering rack in also.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2072)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2073)
A little more done today. I think I'm to a point where I can place another order of things I need that are missing or broken. Got the harness in, its a little hacked up in places but not too horrible. Redid the lower dash and assembled the shroud with gauges. Cleaned up the heater box and it needs some tlc on the face plate. The switch panel is pretty rough too.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2074)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2075)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2076)
I was placing this new order and as always I add way more than I plan on. I also realized this car didn't come with seat belts or keys for the door handles, so those will be new also. Trying to source a mk4 steering column shroud also. Everyone is out of stock on those at the moment.
Looks like it's really starting to come along.
Well I went out today, but I'm getting sick and it hit 109 degrees in the shop, so I wasn't really feeling it. The parts from minispares came in though so I wanted to do something. I rebuilt the master, though they sent the wrong insides. The spring was too short and the plunger was slightly too big of a diameter. Not sure how that got mixed up. But the rubber seals were the same size, which is all I needed really. I got the bushings on the front lower arms and dropped the engine in. The engine was a BIATCH to drop in. The auto box is bulky front and has this tab thing up front. It was a disaster but finally got it in there. I broke the fuel pump inlet pipe in the process. As a matter of fact I finally had to take that off to be able to tilt it to get it to drop down. Not happy with all of that. I put on new bushings for the radiator shroud that were shot, and a new speedo cable. I started to put the rear drums on but damned if the studs are too short. Didn't catch that one. I might have a set of studs around somewhere but not sure. Also happened to have a brand new inner pot joint that I put on to replace the one that was missing. I was too hot and crappy feeling to take pictures.
Either way, it sounds like you made some pretty good progress.
Ok pics finally. I went back out today and got the front suspension on. I ended up having to make a trip to the hardware store to pick up some needed bolts/washers/nuts that were MIA. New bushings on the tie rods also.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2077)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2078)
I would paint those calipers engine red, or the same as the car. Just a little extra something 77.gif
Brake lines all done. Had to make a few more. Had one try and strip on me in the master, not cool. Engine steady in, exhaust headers in, dual carbs just kinda hanging out for now. Radiator in, and the pedal assembly.... Anyone notice anything funny about the pedals that came with it? This car is an automatic but yet I got these with the car. So I modified them. 8.gif Put on a new brake sensor for the lights too.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2079)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2080)
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2081)
Well this stupid master cylinder I rebuilt holds pressure for a little bit, then randomly falls to the floor. No leaks in the system otherwise. Last one I tried to rebuild did the same thing, so I'll be buying a new one and never rebuilding one again. Got the auto shifter in and figured out where the linkages go. I've never worked on an auto before so it took some scratching of my head to figure it out. Rad hoses on. Carb and exhaust bolted down. Tomorrow is more of the same.
Is it a bean can type?
If so I'd be glad to check it out with my bench test rig. See my 1960 austin project reply #26. I've honed two and replaced the seals and neither have had a problem except one had cracked solder seam which was easily repaired.
OK I see it's a later model. Test rig should still work.
The guy I share shop space with who's a certified mechanic says they were always taught just to chunk out old master cylinders because they tend to fail half the time when redoing seals.
More fiddling around today. I put the new switch plate and trim piece together for the dash and ran the new heater, choke, and throttle cables. I had a brand new heater valve for the block, but the cable isn't long enough to work with it. Not only that but the cable barely reaches an older style valve I have. Was disappointed with that. Spend some time rigging the choke cable and had the carbs on and off several times getting things just right with the rod that ties into the choke mechanism.
Today I rebuilt the wiper motor and linkages. I took the motor apart and the magnets on the inside completely fell apart, so went digging through my scrap pile and found a new top section to use. I bought a new plinth kit for the wipers but they didn't come with the needed bolt to tighten them down. Came with a few other worthless pieces of plastic though, so was confused about that. Also I got two extra sets of arms and didn't get the blades. I bought this really fancy stainless rear view mirror, pulled it out of the box, and the glass was broken. :-[ Visors are in though and the broken mirror for now till I can see if they'll send a new one or if I need to cut a piece of glass or something. Dunno. I bought new coolant lines for the heater assembly and fitted those, added fluid and no leaks. New fuel lines and filter in. Steering column in and the new wheel and boss kit installed. Found the harness for the rear of the car but damned if instead of unplugging it from the front of the harness they cut it about 3 feet short. Tomorrow I will recreate the missing section. The fuel tank and rear lights are ready to go in, with all new gaskets back there. After that's done, I need to run the hand brake assemble, put in the carpet, and figure out these new belts. After that I think I'm limited to electrical gremlins and I need to build the doors. I can start to see light at the end of the tunnel.
Got out there today to mess with the harness. Got the extension in and the dome light figured out. Running wires to it was no easy task. Started in on the hand brake but we're missing some parts for it also. Got the car on some steelies though and it's rolling!
I've been banging my head against the wall with this car. The harness was/is a disaster. I have things sorted out to the ignition and starter finally. The fuel pump didn't pump fuel after all and I ended up putting on an electric pump. Got fuel, got spark, but not getting it to fire up at the moment. I believe I installed the 123 dizzy correctly. I'm thinking the crazy wide gaps on the rockers may be the problem, but also I noticed something today that has me concerned. There appears to be a slight amount of coolant making its way from the gasket below the tstat housing. It's damp and after wiping it dry, comes back over a period of time. I have my work cut out for me. :(
Is it brown, or is that just rust? Was the car running under its own power before the restoration? Re-torque all of the head studs?
That's just crud after wiping the area down, a little oil overrun from the oil change the other day. The car was said to run prior to the previous owner tearing it down. I will need to check torque next week.
No milk in the oil change? Hopefully its something stupid like a head stud loose or a head stud with no sealant on it and its seeping out. I guess a worn head gasket wouldn't be the worst to change if it was a bad gasket.
Nah old oil was fine. I guess that's a good sign. I put on a new gasket when I had the head off inspecting the cylinders.
Head wasn't tight enough, go figure. I got it running and pretty much tuned up. Vid coming soon. In typical rebuild fashion the heater box is leaking fluid.
Vroom Vroom. Better than the Vroom boom backfire Vroom I initially had going.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6PANvofeis&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6PANvofeis&feature=youtu.be)
Oh also...I got the new master in. One of the brake line fittings is a completely different size. 8.gif :-[ Off to hunt down something to adapt it and get the brakes done for the 2nd time.
Quote from: 94touring on September 28, 2014, 06:20:29 PM
Vroom Vroom. Better than the Vroom boom backfire Vroom I initially had going.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6PANvofeis&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6PANvofeis&feature=youtu.be)
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New master in. I had to make 2 trips to the auto parts store due to the lower fitting being a 12mm rather than the standard 10mm. The reducer was fine threads on the male end but course threads on the female end. Found a fitting that would work and re flared the line, bled like crazy, adjusted the rears, and it should stop on a dime now.
Been awhile since I've had any updates. First day back to the shop. It was 30 and snowing. At any rate I got the headlights, high beams, rear lights, brake lights, turn signals, heater fan, and horn working. The emergency flashers are only working on one side and the wipers keep blowing the fuse. At the moment I'm stumped with those two issues. Initially the flasher units themselves were bad, but I had some spares to use to diagnose issues. I need to buy more fuses and some connectors to tidy up the heater box and horn. Rally lights to be installed soon. In hindsight I wish I had bought a new harness. I also got the extended studs in the rear to mount the spaced drums. Now that I'm back in town, I get to leave again tomorrow. 20.gif
Does the wiper motor run smooth and even? If there is excessive drag in the system it will draw extra current to overcome that. May be time to clean/lube the moving parts. Or at least adjust them to free them up. My wiper system binds if I tighten the nuts too tight under the wiper arm.
As soon as I flip the wiper arm the fuse blows. I did have it apart before I installed it and cleaned it up/lubed it good. I may have to wire direct to the motor and see if it even works.
If it blows that fast I suspect there could be a short inside the motor.
I'll yank it out next time and double check my work. Thanks for the 9.gif
Back in town but only for a day. I took apart the old wiper motor and found some broken connections that fit up against the motor shaft. Swapped in a motor I borrowed from another car and it finally works. I also got the rally lights installed and working.
You need another working rotor? I have a single speed that I used for parts on my workbench. brushes are in good shape.
I couldn't remember the term when I wrote that, but the brushes had fallen apart on the old motor. A piece was lodged and I suspect caused the short. I am just going to use what I have in there now. Thanks though.
Way to go. 77.gif
Lights 4.gif
They will probably end up in the trash if you don't take 'em, so let me know if you change your mind.
It's the whole motor?
It can be. I robbed some parts from it and combined that with a MG motor to make a two speed unit that had the Mini plate on it with construction dates. The remaining parts is enough to put a motor back together.
Alright, hang on to it and I'll take it.
Got a lot of little things done today. Chrome on the front all on. Had to trim the end pieces around the grill to fit in. Fitted the oil pressure line, the engine in fact has pressure. Wired up the water temp gauge. Seems to be reading on the high side, may be the sensor that was in the block. I'm going to put a thermometer to it and see. The Tstat housing was leaking fluid for some reason, so took it back off and put a different gasket on and a little dab of gasket sealer. I'm glad I did because dumb me forgot to put the Tstat in! The gauges didn't come with bulbs so found a pair of bulbs and wired them up. There were several other random cut wires on the center pod, which I soldered up and got everything working properly. Adjusted the carb again and the choke cable. Put on an old pair of wipers...apparently I forgot to order blades for the arms I have. I need to flip the motor to the left side of the bay to have the wipers park and wipe differently. I don't know why I didn't think of that when I was slaving to get it in the first time.
Wipers are actually parked on the correct side after a little refreshing my memory, so no need to reverse them. Washer bottle motor is toast, so need to order a new one of those. Wired up the heater box fan. Attached the switch for the rally lights. Resecured the center pod after yesterdays wiring job. Put in rubber seal around door frames. Cleaned up/painted seat brackets and put in seats. Started to wire up the dome light but I'm out of the door sensor switches. Fitted the hand brake and adjusted the cable. Redid some of the harness that connects to the rear harness. Started to fit the steering column shroud but it came with the wrong one, OR there is a mix match of yokes and ignition switches going on. Time to order a few items for next time.
Parts came in and so I put on the new wipers and wired up the new washer bottle kit. Took some digging to figure out where the wire to the bottle motor was. Got that in there, adjusted the nozzles, and then wired up the door sensor switches for the dome light. Also put on a new face on the heater box panel.
Door disassembly and prep week.
Having done my share of body work on my old Jag's rustoration, I don't envy those who do it tho I sure envy the results!
Both doors I'm using are in pretty good condition. Both were previously skinned at some point, one was a little ratty on the bottom but I have cleaned it up. Couple dents needed worked out but nothing major. Some body filler is still drying on the one, the other is blocked and ready for primer. I will have to re stud one of the hinges. Bonnet is prepped up and ready as well, with the exception of a spot on the underneath I need to hit with the welder.
More pics please!
The worst part of building a car is finding tons of unexpected problems you'd never think of. Here I am trying to tighten down a set of wheels on the rear so I can drive it out of the paint booth to drag doors in. Last time I messed with the rear brakes I had put in longer studs for the new drums. The whole assembly is new. What I wasn't anticipating is the groove of the drum that fits along the lip of the backplate, once tightened down binds together. At first I thought I needed to loosen the shoes, then when that didn't work I took them out, and when that didn't work I got out a hammer, and when that didn't work I ground the lip down enough to get the clearance required. What a pain.
Took it for a drive doorless lol. Had to richen up the carbs. Still a little low end hesitation but picks up nicely.
You are a brave man for working in that shop in this weather and even ballsier for driving with no doors in this weather.
It looks good!
And today I am a sick man with sinus congestion. :( Not as young and immune as I use to be. Or could be from not wearing a respirator while sanding the other day, kinda regret that move.
Well I was still thinking about venturing out to throw a coat of primer on the final pieces but then I looked at the temperature. I don't think my shop lights in the paint booth can overcome this ridiculous cold.
-10 here this morning...even now at 10am it's still -4. Last night I fired up the propane heater in the garage for a few minutes to bring the temp up to 35 and worked on some patches on the 944 for about 20 minutes until my hands started hurting.
Personally, I blame the democrats.
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Someone said Mucinex is really good...hope you're feeling better soon man.
I ran the inline sander on those doors and was too lazy to put on my mask. Felt icky that night but didn't think much of it till last night when I finally concluded I'm sick. Hopefully passes by quickly.
We've got a pretty good southern breeze blowing right now, that and the sunshine took the temps up from -2* to almost 25* now, so you should be warming up too!
That car looks nice, but will it sell as an automatic?
It was sold before I started building it. It's custom spec.
I did not know they even made an auto version of the mini.
I turned on the news at 6 this morning and they we all crazy here about how cold and windy it was. Wind chill factor etc..
Since I work outside I was not in a hurry to get out of bed and start moving.
I put 3 layers on, t shirt, long sleeve fishing shirt, and hoodie, with a plan to go to a jacket if needed...
It was over 55° when I walked out this morning up to 63° right meow.
I need to snap pic, people here are dressed like it is 20° out. I immediately peeled off the sweatshirt and I am a wimp when it comes to cold.
Seeing temps like you guys post, I am very happy I moved down here. Eff that!!!
We have a 998 auto at the shop I imported years ago. I'm thinking about buying it back from John the shop owner. It's currently apart also, and I just don't have the time to get to it. Solid car too, just needs paint and some new interior. Jim have you adjusted the number settings on your 123 yet? I got the fuel setup on these carbs, but I am pretty sure I am too retarded on the timing still. I looked up the correct setting that was recommended but I still have a laggy spot low end and some popping through the carb at low rpms, indicative of timing. Once the rpms pick up it takes off like nothing is wrong. Curious how yours reacts when you adjust the settings. I'm new to this dizzy also.
Mine is a little laggy down low like 3K and under then it pulls very hard to redline.
I never adjusted the initial setting I dialed into it when I installed it. For the life of me I cannot remember what I set it at.
IIRC the initial setting it comes with is a "good" setting to start with.
Mine does not backfire at all, I need to pull a spark plug and take another look see, she has been driving great, over 400 miles on her this week alone and she is purring.
I almost do not want to touch anything. I can deal with the slight lag.
Prepping doors
Also threw on a coast of filler primer to sand down tomorrow. So the turn signals had stopped working. That was a pita. The issue was simply at the terminal of the fuse box. Although I have an intermittent issue with the emergency flashers that has me totally stumped. Both sides flash at the same time about half of the time. When they flash at the same time the green light on the dash doesn't blink. The other half of the time only the right side will flash and the green light will flash too. Any ideas? Also richened up the carb and the low end hesitation went away. Took it for another spin.
Checking the appropriate set of wiring diagrams that cover the car, the likely culprit is the hazard rocker switch. You'll want to look at diagrams 10 through 15 for the closest match to the car. The circuit of interest is the same on all those diagrams (pages 12.28 to 12.33 in the blue Haynes manual). The hazard circuit is in the lower right corner of the diagrams. The rocker switch is #153. My guess would be poor contacts across the center contacts (the light inside the rocker and the left hand side signals).
Still prepping. One door had an allergic reaction to the previous coat of primer and wrinkled on me :-[ I have since stripped it and starting over. Everything else is looking good so far.
Why did it do that?
It appeared that the sealer primer hadn't fully cured prior to the filler. It was a bit gummy when I was stripping it. Once I threw another layer of sealer on the top, it made the sealer on the bottom react.
Did it just not get enough time, or was the temp too cool, or did the sealer not get mixed right?
Enquiring minds want to know!
BTW, this is my 100th post!
I guess I have diarrhea of the keyboard! ;D
It's been cold here and I probably didn't give it enough flash time. Mixing definitely wasn't the problem. I re sprayed the door after stripping it down and all is good now.
Quote from: MiniDave on January 17, 2015, 05:21:28 PM
Did it just not get enough time, or was the temp too cool, or did the sealer not get mixed right?
Enquiring minds want to know!
BTW, this is my 100th post!
I guess I have diarrhea of the keyboard! ;D
100th post! and you been here what a week or two, I was here like day two and just now getting near 100.
Man I got some catching up to do.
Jeff
Well, most of it was to post my restoration of my Clubman......
Working on replacing the adjusting screws on the rockers. They were trash. One was even broke in half. You can even see where threads were broken.
I've read about crap quality on the MiniSport rockers and many other brands lately. With all this junk floating around, I'm just not seeing the use of the higher lift rockers. My current plan is to go with standard ratio, possibly forged Cooper S 1.3's. I just don't think the risk is worth the reward until someone can show me a good reputable set. And even then, I've bought the Cam profile I want and I don't need a 1.5 ratio rocker. I'd want a 1.3 with a roller only to reduce the side loading. That's it.
The new screws are quality. Machined and heat treated.
Got everything adjusted and tuned some more. Driving really good now.
Interested in seeing how those hold up, you are having some of the same issues I have.
Getting some things painted.
Hood is done.
Quote from: 94touring on January 20, 2015, 06:52:51 AM
Getting some things painted.
It's interesting how different the color looks on the two doors, I assume it's just the lighting?
Ha yes, just lights.
Quote from: MtyMous on January 18, 2015, 12:13:41 PM
I've read about crap quality on the MiniSport rockers and many other brands lately. With all this junk floating around, I'm just not seeing the use of the higher lift rockers. My current plan is to go with standard ratio, possibly forged Cooper S 1.3's. I just don't think the risk is worth the reward until someone can show me a good reputable set. And even then, I've bought the Cam profile I want and I don't need a 1.5 ratio rocker. I'd want a 1.3 with a roller only to reduce the side loading. That's it.
My Minisports did not last 100 miles. I now have over 2000 miles on a very expensive (3X cost) MM set and they are working fine.
Got the doors on, though the one I want to make another shim for it, still not to my liking. I spent a lot of time making shims and fitting these crazy things today.
Buffing like a madman.
Finally got the wheels in.
What a change! You do great work.
Thanks. Just need to clean it up and we're changing the dash again. Oh and I need to set the hi-los a bit more. I think it's sitting high in the front still.
Cleaning up
Updated interior minus speakers.
Took it for a spin.
Engine bay
Very nice. 77.gif
Now if I could just do my truck lol. One more shell to do then I'm free! Free I tell you!
Looks good. So Dan you must still have a shop? did I miss something?
Jeff
No shop. Simply working out of a garage for the time being. Trying to go in halfies on a shop at some point but no big hurry.
Where will the new shop be located?
A hanger at a private air field.
In Oklahoma again?
Yes tulsa.
It's officially out of my hair!
How and where do you market your cars? MM? Autotrader? something else?
I sold this one 2 years ago. I just listed a custom build job on mm and here and it sold within the week.