I am already documenting this a few other places, but if people are interested, I can post my work here as well.
The vehicle in question is a 1965 Mini Moke I bought from Spank down in California. It is VERY religious, quite hole-y
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/77C8C81D-62EB-42C4-84A3-75202B83E3A9-359-0000000B96052AB4.jpg)
The first thing I did when I got home was register it, I received the title yesterday, along with putting together a large order of panels. I did buy a complete floorpan from Spank when I picked up the moke. One of the things I did while waiting for the panels was see if I could make it run, and yes, after much mickey mousery with the carb it ran.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/th_mokestart.jpg) (http://s1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/?action=view¤t=mokestart.mp4)
After I got it running I started stripping it as I need to make a body jig for it, during this process the first batch of panels arrived and I proceeded to test fit to figure out what I had and what I needed still to get.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Overview.jpg)
After building a wooden frame to set the moke in, I purchased $250 of steel and proceeded to build a jig that I can build the new center tub in retaining the correct subframe mounting geometry. And Yes, I am using the old rotted out rear subframe as the subframe mounting locations in the body were too bad to be able to be accurately used.
I am only probably half done with it, I still have to finish some front subframe mount tie ins and make some jig points for the upper shock mounts. Once that's done I make legs :)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/bodyjigday2-2_zpsb9c175f0.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/bodyjigday2-1_zpsc8f1bea4.jpg)
Chris
P.S. more pics around http://s1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/ (http://s1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/) and in the moke sub album.
Holey is right!! That's great, thanks for sharing!
Thanks 94, I hope to have it on the road by MMW next year at least that is the plan.
Chris
Well I have finished the bottom of the frame jig more or less. I don't have the legs on it, but I'm not quite sure what height I want it at so that will come later. I managed to tie in all the points I wanted except for the "front of front subframe" mounts as I questioned their condition. There was a bit of distortion at those points. At this point I just need to flip it over and trailer it into the garage... once I get my 1960 saloon shell out.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/bodyjigday4.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/bodyjigday4-2.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/bodyjigday4-3.jpg)
Questions comments critiques?
Chris
i think it looks great so far! My wife told me seeing the first pic of it on the trailer, that if i ever brought home something like that shed kill me. I guess my re flooring of my saloon took to long haha.
Oddly I thought my Father would have stern words for me when I brought it home, it is really ripe. My Mom loved it though.. even with it being as bad as it was seeing as it came home under the condition it was the last one until something leaves or is finished!
So... Um... Anyone want to buy a very early 1960 Austin project? :-X
Chris
Well I have gotten the early shell out and on it's way to where it is going to be stored.. I wish the storage place was in someone elses workshop.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/60%20shell/shellgoingintostorage.jpg)
That leaves a largish open area to clean out for working on the moke :)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Shop/clearedspotinshop.jpg)
Along with that I got the moke rolled upright and about to be drug up on the trailer so I can move it into the shop (after taking it to the club meeting... tommorow :-X )
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/mokeupright.jpg)
Chris
Passenger Assisted Headlamp dipping, All the rage!
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/passengerassistedheadlightdipping.jpg)
It appears to have been done from the factory as it has the cable guard that is screwed on doesn't appear to fit on LHD fittment!?
Chris
Keep the pics coming 4.gif I like that frame you built for it to sit on.
Soon I will get to torturing the poor moke with... powertools! But for now I am building some shelving in the shop to reduce the horrendous clutter.
Chris
We flight clutter too. Have to do the annual cleaning of the shop.
I have not done much work on the Moke for the past couple of days while I build the shelving unit, 12ftx10ftx2ft out of 3/4 inch ply and 2x6's ouch. But I did receive a panel order I made unexpectantly on Mini Mania's website. They had the front angled sections on clearance for $35 a piece, I ended up ordering both along with the right hand front wing and a couple of bonnet hinge rubber pieces. All together including shipping $150, I was pleased.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/mokepanelbargin.jpg)
The one annoyance I see however is that to retain the body number I am going to either have to transfer it to this new panel or split this down the length and weld the two halves together, minor issue.
Once I had the Moke off of the trailer I finished stripping all of the lights off of the back and went to pull the last of the interior bits out. Who was it that chose these huge number 4 philips head screws for the Moke? I could just... just... have strong words in their general direction! I have one in the right hand drive pedal box mount location that absolutely refuses to budge.
Also it seems a previous owner replaced the brake master cylinder some time back and used a bolt with two nuts in place of the clevis pin, that was a pain to unbolt.
Apparently there was some issues with the engine steady...
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/hmm.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/uh-oh.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/bugger.jpg)
Well, I was worried it would be difficult to remove the engine steady... it wasn't... but... Houston, We have a problem!
Chris
P.S. I don't flight clutter myself.. I send it via ground ;)
The lower part of my steady mounting bracket is missing in action also.
I think that may be a magic wand/rod change malady Willie,
Hey all, It's been a few days. But I have the shelves done more or less in the shop, they turned out fairly well.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Shop/shelf3.jpg)
I also got this last week, but photobucket was having issues so couldn't show it. I purchased a NOS workshop manual in original box to replace my water damaged original pages for £4.99 plus not much shipping. I am afraid to take it out of the box now! :D
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/bits/bmcbox.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/bits/nosworkshopmanual.jpg)
Once I got the shelf up and a bunch of stuff moved onto it I was able to drag the Moke off of the trailer and set to work on it, I had to pull the last of the loom out and the pedal box out. I swear whoever decided to fill this thing with #4 philips head screws..... But I won in the end, vice grips trump shoddy striptastic screws!
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/iwin.jpg)
As it is I have been working for the past several days to get the inner jig built, it is probably 3/4 or 2/3 done at this point, but it is looking ok :)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/innerjig6.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/innerjig7.jpg)
There are more pics in my photobucket I just didnt want to flood you all with pics. I am hoping to be done with this inner jig shortly so I can actually pull the shell off and start fitting panels together, I can't wait!
I am however on the fence about picking up the new welder I have my eye on, the prospect of being able to "not have to grind down thousands of plug welds" is very appealing. That and I have several projects to use it on. I have some good first hand reviews on it from family friends. What do you think? I plan to not use it to make two welds at once, but to reach around funky shaped structures making one weld at a time.
http://lencoautomotive.com/index.php?q=product&p=l-4000 (http://lencoautomotive.com/index.php?q=product&p=l-4000)
Chris
Trying to avoid the word 'holey' is tough in this case, so Wow what a project!
As a newbie to this stuff I'm finding the welding tricky at best. All my 'learning' has been on thicker, fresh metal not sandblasted thinner stuff. I'd be interested in hearing about that spot welder if you get it!
Thanks for keeping us in the loop on the moke!
Pat
The trick to removing the screws is to stick a 3/4 nut on it and weld through the center. This brakes the rust on the threads and allows you to use an impact to take the screw out.
I read though the manual for the lenco and it clearly states that it is only intended for nonstructural welds, so if you end up using one plug weld to be sure nothing comes apart.
I did notice that on the Lenco, however they are also intending it for a 2 spot welds per spot machine instead of splitting it and using it both sides of the same spot. Which in itself would lower the strength of the weld, spotting top and bottom in one weld should strengthen the welded joint. I am trying to find a used one so the outset cost is not so high, But being a quality 220 welder it has to have better spots then the handheld 110 welder that welded the front of my car back together in the mid 90's. If push comes to shove I will do the drill and fill... but assembling a whole car that way will be annoying :)
Chris
Hey all
It has been a lazy while, but I finally finished my inner frame and can start pulling the body off the jig.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/innerframe.jpg)
I also picked up a chinese rollbar/seatbelt mount to modify to fit the moke.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/chokerollbar.jpg)
The main hood frame fits over it perfectly however the rear does not, the hood frame lines up almost exactly with the rear legs of it, that is going to require a bit of fitting to make it work.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/rearhoopissue.jpg)
The other issue with fitting it is that this moke is a top fill moke with the large filler, I don't see this as a major issue as I have decided I will make up a J tube that connects down to the main floor allowing me to trim off the third hole/interfering metal around it.
Next step is going to be to remove the body from the jig and likely add some legs so it isn't so dang low :p
Chris
At least your moving on your Moke. Mine has been parked since I got it home. Though I am just starting to build a house and THAT eats my time.
And all your spare money too I bet!
Chris
Another update already?!?
Well yeah, I managed to pull the old shell off of the jig today with some help. 3 of my rear subframe bolts have the shank broken off in the subframe mounts though that wont be much issue as I have at least one good hole in each mount so I can still cinch things down.
With it off I was able to start assembling panels for a test fit of the floor, I sat the top jig off to the side as I wont need it until I go to mount the seat mount. I did run into two issues though, one I duly corrected, and one that will require me chopping the center of the rear subframe out.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/mokeoffjig.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/innerjigofftotheside.jpg)
The floorpan was missing subframe mount holes.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/missingsubframemountholesinfloor.jpg)
Easily corrected.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/floorfit.jpg)
I am ready for some weld through primer and a spot welder now :)
Chris
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/floorfittogether.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/mokebuilduptestfit.jpg)
You're not fooling around, gona have this thing back together in no time looks like.
Actually the assembly should be quick once I have a few things set up, but I still lack a spot welder and other items. AND I still have to dismantle the old shell for panels I need to salvage.
Chris
Wow! That jig is awesome! You could go into the Moke re-production business and give the Chinese a run for their money.
How much of the original metal do you think you'll be able to save?
Thanks, the jig is not going to stay in this state once I am done with the moke shell, the rear part will be removed so I can fit the wagon to it to set set up the rear load floor replacement as well as straighten out the bent 61 woody I have.
As for the moke, I hope to keep some of the original metal, pannier tops and dividers will be repaired and reused, as will much of the front third. The back needs to completely come apart for me to figure out what I can save.
Chris
It has been a while, I have been building a shop wide workbench and going to pick up more items. I picked up an engine for either the Moke or the Pickup, it is a silver seal remanufactured 1275gt short block rebuilt and never ran. It had to come apart however as the lube turned to glue, I am having the block and the rods/pistons cleaned before I go about assembling it. I also acquired another treasure, I picked up the welder! A used Lenco l-4000 which ended up having a Hasuna 558 pneumatic gun attached to it... O.O This may change the plans of the welder accessory I plan to build.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/bits/25FA81C1-E697-4BB2-8FB7-716AA0BE55CD-1370-000002A9C6BE8ADF.jpg)
Chris
Very nice!
you have to finish the job but when you'll be very happy. increase in job
Not sure how to answer that pschlacter01!
Hey all,
Slow week here, I managed to cut the front of the subframe for spot welding clearance thankfully it didn't change anything measurement wise.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/cutcrossmember.jpg)
While waiting for panels I set to building a nice 26 foot long workbench for additional work space took a few lazy days, but it has helped clean up the shop a bit.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Shop/bench.jpg)
Soon the order from m-machine came in, it isn't just for the moke however as it includes part of the doorframe for the woody and the inner wing panels for the pup. Along with those meaningless panels there where most of the panels I needed for the moke center hull...
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/neworder.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/wellpackaged.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/panels11-8.jpg)
Unfortunately the rear pannier closing panels I odered turned into a single inner inner pannier divider... not good. So I need to order the panels directly from Leo and I need to get them before I I can try welding the heelboard to the floor.
Oh well, that will take some time, another task I had on the agenda was to add legs to the jig so I could get some distance above the dirt... and I think it turned out ok.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/addedlegs.jpg)
I have had the 1275 cleaned and oiled, only need to order parts and start assembly on it.
The welder is still waiting on tips before I can try it.
Slowly moving along...
Chris
Any latest and greatest with you?
Hello all, It has been quite a hiatus When the rain was thick I was indoors avoiding tracking mud into the house. Earlier this month I decided I needed to work on the moke again so proceeded to clean up my working space in the shop. About that time I finally received the metal I needed to try to set up the spot welder.
Things however did not work out quite so well, while the welder has enough power to melt the metal I don't currently have the ability to apply enough pressure to get it to forge together right.. and it is EVEN worse with the pneumatic spot welder... :/ (single spot is the pneumatic the double spots is doing it by hand one on each side of the test pieces)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/badwelds_zps42e990a4.jpg)
Not Good Not Good...
So I decide to push the welder off into the corner for now and weld it like I have in the past on the other shells, after all I don't plan on ever selling MY Moke.
The panels all test fit good, better actually then the standard mini panels tend to fit on to standard minis...
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/testfit_zps0f550aff.jpg)
I started by welding the hull closer panels on followed by the pannier floor angle brackets on each side. Once this was done the main floor was turned over for additional welds on the underside, something I think I will need to do frequently I believe as my jig doesn't rotate :)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/weldingcloserandfloorbrackets_zps60e4ba17.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/weldingcloserbottoms_zpsf6e5e330.jpg)
Once that was done and placed back into the heelboard and toeboard I welded those on both sides so they would be firmly attached when I pilled the floor to fully weld the toe and heelboards on. I also came up with the novel solution of propping one side of the jig up to better access welds, simple but effective :)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/weldingontoe-heel_zps5ff328f5.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/weldingonbottom_zpsb54853d1.jpg)
Once they were both welded on I was able to test fit the inner hull sides and they happily fit without clamps :)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/hullsides_zps10989b7b.jpg)
realizing I was likely going to need the seat crossmember much sooner then later, with much trepidation I attacked the moke with a cutting disk... -insert pictures of rust and destruction-
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/panniercutup_zpse9329b91.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/mokeonground_zpsa670daf3.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/mokewithoutback_zps61e40f0d.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/mokewithoutfrontorback_zps83f3fb8e.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/leaning_zpse22dc003.jpg)
Finally! I got the seat crossmember and the pannier tops off! The one pannier divider from the LH side is by far the best shape and will get minor repairs and reuse, the matching one from the RH will get major repairs and then reuse.
Just for fun...
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/seatinmokepan_zps31aef9a3.jpg)
So I mounted the pan assembly back into the jig once the welds were clean inside and started jigging things up to test fit.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/crossmemberonpaninjig_zps099ac091.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/mockup_zpsba6060ba.jpg)
And I have to love how things are fitting together, the old tunnel section I have left on the seat crossmember to test how things fit? They line up perfectly with the holes already in the new pan, you can see light directly though them!
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/lightthroughtheparkingbrakeholes_zps1d12b391.jpg)
Next I need to weld the pannier dividers that are being replaced with new onto the sides of the pan so I can weld the hull sides in. Thankfully the seat crossmember is welded in differently then how I thought so it can be mounted after the hull sides. The pannier tops need cleaned up and repaired, and then I have to start repairing the flitch panels on the front end.
The front should be easy to get ready to use, it needs the flitches repaired, the areas behind the shock mounts repaired, a section on the LH bulkhead in front of the driver repaired, one fender replaced and the two sloping sections replaced. Minimal compared to any other section!
I also have started another order up with m-panels to get a moke load floor in as I have decided I need to replace it now instead of having to dig that far into the moke later to replace it. I am going to beat the rear panel back into a semblance of shape for now as it is easy to replace later.
Once again Sorry for the delays! :)
Chris
Awesome thanks for the updates!
Don't mention it... Here's more! :-\
I have gotten the new pannier dividers I have welded on, two are missing they are still attached to the old pannier tops and will stay there I will install them when I install the pannier tops.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/pannierdividers_zps4d09215d.jpg)
I also did something that may be somewhat controversial, I removed the seat belt anchors on the new hull sides. The car was not originally built with them being an early enough moke so they are not required. Grandfathered features whee! I will put seat belts in it however, they will go in with the roll bar when it is fitted.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/whoneedsseatbeltsanyways_zps226f5baf.jpg)
Once those were out I needed to start prepping the hull sides for welding in, this requires prepping the sill voids where I can't access once it's built. This means paint! and paint means MASKING! I need the paint to not be between the joints, I will paint those later with weld through zinc primer.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/masking_zps2d5108c5.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/paint_zps951f8b5d.jpg)
The order I am putting together for the rear panels, the last 4 I am not sure exactly which those are so M-parts is sending me some photos via email.
1 x HYE0857 Rear Floor Panel - £75.00 +
1 x ALA7026 Channel capping Rear RH - £41.16 +
1 x ALA7102 Rear Seat rear support bracket LH - £6.50 +
1 x ALA7103 Rear Seat rear support bracket RH - £6.50 +
1 x HYE0859A Rear floor cross member assembly - £35.00 +
2 x HYK3553 Front wing sloping section reinforcement - £8.00 each +
1 x ALA7108 rear floor front support piece - £10.00 +
2 x BHM9665 Handbrake cables - £8.75 each
1 x AHH5631 brake pipe - £7.51
1 x BCA4002 brake pipe - £9.01
1 x 2A2183 brake pipe - £10.47
£234.65
1 x HYK1787 Reinforcing plates rear wing RH -£15.00 +
1 x HYK1788 Reinforcing plates rear wing LH - £15.00 +
1 x ALA7368RH reinforcement plate hull top - £8.76
1 x ALA7368LH reinforcement plate hull top - £8.76
£47.52
£282.17 - about $430 or so.
Untill next time, Chris
Wow, that's awesome. From the ground up, piece by piece! 4.gif
Heck with frame off restorations.. this is a car off restoration! lol
Not much today picture wise, but it seems like a bit was done. I worked a bit on the seat crossmember, cleaning up the underside and getting it ready to weld in. I also partially welded on the LH hullside at every point I could reach.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/lhhullsidetopwelded_zpsf29e3944.jpg)
Once the other side and the seat mount is welded in I will need to pull the assembly off the jig once again to weld from the bottom.
I did however run out of weld through primer as I was getting ready to fit the other hullside so it stays off until I can pick up some more tomorrow... and some more gas for the welder :p
Lacking anything else I could do at this point I clamped on a couple panels just for grins :)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/mockup2-27_zps7e1a99de.jpg)
It is starting to slightly resemble a moke!?
Chris
I just like the fact you're basically building a moke from scratch. Almost like you didn't need the shell to begin with, lol.
I probably didn't need the moke to start with, it might have been cheaper to get a rolling shell, but the original moke is going to provide me with paperwork and all the separate parts to actually build the moke once I have a shell to bolt things to. Basically DMV knows I own a moke... I just have to get one together that is safe to use ;) Not really any worse off then some pup or cooper restores. On the plus point.. I do plan to reuse the front >.>
Chris
I was able to get both hull sides welded in to the point that I could start fitting the seat crossmember!
This is a mile post of this build, the first original part that is being attached to the shell :)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/seatmountgoingin_zpsd2c91029.jpg)
There is also a monsterous load of weld cleanup to do... GOD I wish I could have gotten the spot welder functional! :(
Once the seat crossmember is fully mounted from the top I need to pull the pan out and weld from the bottom, and once that's done I get to start repairing the front end! Oh JOY.
Hopefully I can get the final panels from m-parts sometime in the next couple of weeks.
The Seat crossmember is fairly nice fitting.... :)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/decentfit_zps61741581.jpg)
Chris
Weld cleanup, always a fun time. 11.gif
Yeah I know.. though I think the more appropriate icon....
50.gif 50.gif 50.gif 50.gif 50.gif 50.gif
Hey all, big day, I started working on the repairs the front end needs before it can be attached, I homed in on the rusty flitches to start with. Made myself a nice masking tape pattern, transferred it to steel, fitted and started welding... with my amperage too high holes everywhere! wheee. Turned the heat down and managed to weld it all on, there will be a bit of cleanup but it has penetration...
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/flitchpattern_zps0e55adaa.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/flitchpattern2_zpsa71a2e1b.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/itfits_zpsb1f1338c.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/weldedflitch_zpse5b0bca7.jpg)
When I was cutting metal off of the front end I came to a rather nasty surprise, the insides of the window strengtheners are rather pitted and they need to be replaced, I do think they will last this summer however and being on the top of the moke they are rather easy to get to for replacement.
I have to get this rolling by June D: In an incomplete state if need be.. But drive able. 250 miles away there is going to be Mini Meet West 2013 I have to go in the moke! =)
My Dad showed up in the evening hours and we pulled the tub off of the jig and turned it over so I can get to the welds along the bottom of the seat cross member and the hull sides.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/flooroutofjig_zps2bd3ddea.jpg)
Until next update.
The cut burned smashed bloody
Chris
Ow... I rang my bell today, I stepped out of the back door stepped on the back porch step and landed on my... tailpipe.
But aside from that, I worked a bit more on the front, I had to peel off the old bits of steel, I also had to rebuild the upper edge of the inner flitch and then test fit the sloping section.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/testfittingslopingsection_zpsfe708f27.jpg)
Once that was fitting well, I proceeded to cut off the old right hand wing and clean stuff up so I can fit the new wing which needed trimming.. cutting apart that new panel was a bit nerve wracking. But with some measuring and trimming everything seems to fit quite well.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/rfwingoff_zpscb44916f.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/wingtrimmedandtestfit_zps1cce4bce.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/wingtrimmedandtestfitbottom_zpsef90798d.jpg)
I managed to grind down some welds but others were currently in some awkward spots that I will get to when I can re-position the front a bit, but first I figured I would get the primary repairs done.
The front panel is likely going to have it's corners replaced... later. For right now I am going to just rivet that corner in place.. A bodge but one I plan to redo after this summer.
I also got some welding done on the underside of the pan but my primary focus has been the front end.... oh yeah. I also paid for my order from m-parts. The final damage was $361.92 shipped.
Chris
Loving the progress! 4.gif
Bent tailpipes hurt.... :-[
I've had that problem, too - where there's metal I need to grind down but can't access it. Anyone out there have any tips? A broken piece of file or something?
(I should say that the only tool I ever use is my angle grinder...if that doesn't work....I'm lost lol)
Well, I will get out the air die grinder if I really need to, for now I will keep doing what I am doing :)
Chris
Well, since the last post I have welded that one wing on, still need to grind down the welds, the story of my life... It managed to line up and be square, the sloping section fits on perfectly.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/newwing_zpsab5e21ef.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/newwingbottom_zps90a8e879.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/slopingsection_zps0101a84c.jpg)
From there I started cleaning up the pannier tops, although I have no pictures of that currently. I took and removed the strip of toeboard left on the front bulkhead and I had to weld up the large holes in where someone had some random heater crudely installed. It left me with a bit of oilcanning below that but that should go away once it is welded to the toeboard.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/heaterholepatch_zps3d927eb8.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/heaterholepatch2_zps67d31d0b.jpg)
(one question, that hole to the left of the patch, that looks factory.. is it?)
This morning I went out and decided I really needed to work on the back part of the other fender as well as the other rotten flitch sections, I think the flitch is turning out better then the first one I did heh. I did find another small patch of rust in the front bulkhead that will need a small patch, you will see that later. The flitch repair was a bit oversized, seeing as I used the pattern I had made for the other side for this one, just needs a little trimming ;)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/frontwingrearrepairsection_zpsf2840df5.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/frontwingrearrepairsection2_zps7db20c3a.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/flitchrepair_zps5b56b706.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/flitchrepair3_zpsae71dd65.jpg)
Another thing I found.... the pan fit in the jig quite well.. upside down and backwards! lol It made it fairly easy to do the welding on the bottom (not pictured).
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/thatsnothowitgoeson_zpsbb3b63d9.jpg)
Aside from that I have been going though the parts and pieces I will need in this moke, I brought my built up rear subframe that I removed from my woody home. When I pulled the brake drums, which were easier then any that I had pulled off on a mini before, everything inside looked new. The brake adjusters still spin just like they are supposed to, the screws holding the drums to the spindle look new... I am just going to use it as is I think. I have also got the bean cans from the same car out and they still look serviceable.
What doesn't look serviceable however is my pedal assembly, the shaft is seized in one of the pedals and I think I am going to have to cut them out... thankfully I have a donor set (again from that poor woody! That was a well spent $400!) That has almost new looking pedals spring and other hardware, but the main cage is bent. They should work well.
Oh well, marching on.
Chris
The hole left of the patch is for the choke cable I believe.
Thanks Willie!
It's a GOOD THING I didn't weld it up then!
Chris
I got a call at about 8:30 am this morning, My subframe had been sandblasted! So $40 out the door and I have one sandblasted subframe on my hands. So that is what I did today, cleaned repaired and primed.
Before
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/rustyfrontsubframe_zpsfd8340d0.jpg)
and After.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/sandblastedandprimed_zps6e9e5f87.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/sandblastedandprimed2_zps01bce007.jpg)
I also received a nice package in the mail; a pair of disk c.v. joints, a pair of older Minispares reproduction 7.5 calipers unused, and a rats nest. Overjoyed.. and forgot to take pictures! >.<
I have ordered the bits I need to assemble the front subframe and I pulled out the chop saw to cut the brake pedal pivot shaft which unfortunately had seized in one of the pedals. Thankfully I had a spare pedal box from the wagon that was rather bent.. but only bent in the frame, the shaft and the pedals are perfect.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/pedalassembly_zps7be154b4.jpg)
Unfortunately I pretty much destroyed the old pedals, but the ones from the saloon fit just fine and with a well greased shaft it went together easily :)
Untill next time!
Chris
I got my first suspension parts in the mail the other day, a pair of new cones some Ripspeed hi-los for the front and the lower arm bushings, I still have an order out for the rest of the bits I need to make a rolling subframe.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/newsprings_zps92f8629a.jpg)
I do find it odd that these Ripspeed hi-los include knucklejoint cups... but no knuckle joints, causing you(me) to buy two knuckle joints which will also come with two... cups. Odd.
I have all the work I needed to do to the front end before I could fit it done, The last I needed to do was to finish fitting the last front sloping section, I had already fit the new wing and even more recently fit the new end I had made.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/wingrepair_zps62158d97.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/lhslopingsectiontest_zps6de5f5df.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/rhslopingsection_zps9c62c151.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/lhslopingsection_zpse2a1a32a.jpg)
with it all together It came time to start fitting the front to the pan, The front was easy enough to get on the jig.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/noseonjig_zps242fe5fb.jpg)
But I could only get the pan part way up by myself, In the end I enlisted my father to help me fit the pan to the nose, I will need to do some jacking and pushing at the seams as while it is close, it's not quite perfect.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/tryingtofittub_zps3949a554.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/tubfittonose_zpsc6bb7072.jpg)
And before I called it a night, for grins I clamped the pannier side and rear wing on for the hell of it :)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/offeringup_zps2f80f578.jpg)
I am still waiting on M-parts to get this order together, but things are still moving along fairly well. I see my next few days filled with banging prying and jacking with a bit of welding thrown in for good measure.
Until next time.
Chris
I see a Moke! 4.gif
Googling 'Ripspeed' hilos...'the only RAC homologated set available'. That sounds good to me - I'd been wondering if the $3 ones on Ebay would stand up to competition.
They seem hard to find??? Where did you get them?
The Hi-los? I got them from mini spares, not really all that expensive either.
Chris
Not much of an update, but I got my 1100 engine home, it was raining so I sprayed out the ports with some good penetrating oil to keep everything good. I will likely swap tail housings on this transmission to the magic wand style so I can use it in the moke when the time comes, but I don't think I am going to do much else as it is supposed to be rebuilt and was a runner when the wagon was wrecked. It should do the 500 miles round trip to Bend Oregon for Mini Meet West :)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/1100home_zpsae62e2fb.jpg)
Chris
Excellent!
YES! M-parts has taken my payment! :D 71.gif
Means I should have more panels soon 4.gif
71.gif 71.gif 71.gif
Chris
..And the panels are in the mail!
While I am waiting I can draft up a wiring diagram for my moke a blank sheet!
Chris
There's just something about new panels!
I know, it makes you giddy and makes your wallet weep!
I put the 1100 up on a work bench to see about swapping the tail housing and.. well I ran into another issue. It seems the transmission currently has a 4.27:1 final drive in it. That is not going to be usable on the 10's. So my next option is swapping gearboxes with the old 850 I had in my original mini which I brought home from my moms house a couple of days ago, It should be a much better ratio as the 850 didn't seem to be over-revving to go places. Oh.. and the transmission currently on the 1100 needs a new tail housing anyways... it was built up and painted with an enormous crack in the tail housing!
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/CRACK_zpsfaa0d554.jpg)
On the moke side of things I have been working on the pannier tops while I was waiting for the new panels to arrive.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/panniertoprepairs_zps227e47d4.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/panniertoprepairs2_zps81872ea6.jpg)
They are almost ready but they were put on the back burner again because...
New Panels arrived!
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/mokepackage_zps2ff82c75.jpg)
Panels and brake parts!
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/mokepackage2_zpsd7a59ad8.jpg)
Knowing me I had to go toss them on the Moke to see the nice new floor in-situ. Once that was over with I went and patched up the 6 incorrect holes in the floor and painted the inside of the rear subframe crossmember.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/floortestfit_zpsb5c10177.jpg)
Seeing as those panels were there I realized I needed to get cracking on the rear hullsides so started on breaking down the last large section of the original moke. While cutting the floor out I was surprised to find the rear subframe mounts not welded to the subframe crossmember.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/rearsectiondismantle_zps9d0f0f9c.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/rearsectionrepairinghullside_zps319dca4a.jpg)
I originally decided to leave the rear wings on temporarily to add support so I wouldn't overly damage the rear hullsides and rear panel... until.. I realized the hullsides were not even welded to the rear panel! The only thing holding them together was the rear wings and the remnants of the floor. So off they came!
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/easytodismantle_zps6862eb5f.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/lhrearhullside-1_zps90fcc606.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/IMG_0826_zps864bd103.jpg)
My current plan right now is to continue working on the inner hull sides until they are usable then start assembling the rear of the moke.
The condition they are in is really bad and I likely should just replace them instead of patching them, however if I can patch them while keeping certain things intact I can retain my datum points and know where they will have to go.
Until next time,
Chris
I think I see a panel van in there somewhere.
You do!, although it is rather far down on my project list at the moment. It's in great condition... from about an inch above the seam line up... and it needs a whole new front bulkhead ::)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/mini%20van/woodyvan2.jpg)
Chris
Quote from: 94touring on March 28, 2013, 08:09:23 PM
I think I see a panel van in there somewhere.
Wow...good eye.
This is why I don't post a lot of pics around this place...I put up a pic from the garage and 94 says, 'hey, your wife might want to think about closing the blinds when she changes'...
I'm starting to think it might be a ton of fun to spend the day exploring Chris' place and seeing all the Mini related goodies that turn up. ;D
Eh.. the collection isn't all that impressive, most of it is junk really, I am trying to just get one nice shiny car together >.<
The 'Minis' I have
80 Leyland Van, needs a whole front bulkhead and floor
mk4 saloon shell of indeterminate age purchased to donate the floor and bulkhead to the van.. I paid $200 for it, much cheaper then the panels...
mk2 wagon shell I bought to reshell my 60 morris saloon and convert into a pickup
65 Moke "this thread"
61 Morris woody I bought for $500 that is slightly bent
60 saloon shell in decent shape that is likely going to be cut up to repair the woody and a friends 59 saloon, this shell was originally bought to reshell my 60 saloon into as it was correct, then I decided to make a pickup.
That would be 6 shells but only 4 dismantled cars with vins - Moke - Woody - 60saloonwagonpupthing - Van
Other then those Years ago I used to own a smooth roof tinny but it went to the scrappers when I had to move.
Along with those I have buckets and boxes of rusty scrap I refuse to throw out :)
Chris
Oh, yeah.. The van and mk4 saloon shell together are for sale if anyone is interested on one minor condition... I have to keep the load floor from it and you would get the load floor from my mk2 wagon 48.gif
I am done with one of the hullsides, it needs some cleanup and welding on at this point. I think I even impressed myself with how it turned out seeing as it was the worst one of the two :)
It likely would have been easier to make a new one, but I don't have enough steel for it and this kept my datum points. The shock turrets are going to need work eventually but they will work for now. I literally had to replace the edge of the panel on 3 of it's 4 sides, the 4th got out easy because it had never been welded so really didn't have any rust (!)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/lhrearhullsiderepairs_zpsf129be9a.jpg)
First thing I did after deafening myself grinding down all the welds was try fitting the wing to it and.. surprise surprise.. It still fit nearly perfectly!
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/lhrearhullsidewwing_zpscb351b1e.jpg)
So I went and pulled the inner jig out of the moke so I could start fitting up panels to test the fit...
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/fittingup2_zpsba8998c1.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/fittingup_zps64642ec5.jpg)
Which then had the pannier tops added... and then the rear wing. Wow I had one of these before... I think I cut it up because it was rusty! ;)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/panniertopandwingfitted2_zps3d6d82f5.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/panniertopandwingfitted_zps34b9d69b.jpg)
I need to get cracking on the other rear hullside next and once everything lines up to my satisfaction I can finish welding the moke together... For the most part. I will only be bolting the rear panel and the pannier sides on for now as I want to be able to get in there and do more work later.
Until next time
The Mad Moke Builder
Chris
I can't believe the progress you're making - awesome!
I'm no expert welder...but it seems to me like those welds could use a little more heat and a lot less wire. That would save A LOT of cleanup time.
Watching one of my video's by Kevin Tetz he basically does just a spot weld even when he's not spot welding, joining panels. Keeps the warpage down and you end up with a lot less cleanup. What does the other side of that hullside look like?
(hopefully someone with more experience will jump in - you probably have more welding time than I do!)
Pat
When I first started welding, I was told that you either become good with a welder or good with a grinder :D
Wish I had time to help you chris, as with a stack of perfect body panels, and your jig, I am sure we could have put the body together in a weekend with the spotwelder. Although I would have had to finally buy the extension to reach over 25 inches deep.
Humm I wonder what a complete stack of Moke panels from M-parts would cost, and if Chris would sell his jig. 36.gif
Oh well, it is what is is and it will be what it will be. I have no plans to sell it so I just have to be satisfied with it how it turns out... By the way, how did the rear number plates come along? I haven't heard anything since I sent mine out to you many months back and I may have a spot to put one soon.... ;)
As for the jig, eh.. The main lower part I planned to re purpose to help me put together a couple LWB mini shells once the moke was usable, the inner part eh, not so sure.
Chris
Well, since my last post I managed to rebuild the other rear hullside and remaining issues I had with the pannier tops.
I then set to jigging up everything I could to see what I needed to do to start welding it. As I was happy with the location of the load floor channel that attaches to the heelboard I did a few stitch welds as I don't have access to the bottom right now to weld it properly. I also welded the two load floor corner supports to the rear hullsides when they were in the right place.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/rhrearhullside1_zps01a6c104.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/rhrearhullside2_zpsbdf0c336.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/rhrearhullside3_zps92e7bfc4.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/rhrearhullside4_zps79c6ab6a.jpg)
Once everything was primed, the load floor channel tacked, the braces installed and the pannier tops ready, I started my honest to goodness assembly so I could proceed towards welding everything together. The hullsides got the top half of where they lap welded, I will need to pull the floor out one more time to finish them.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/startingtojigit_zps458c89fa.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/startingtojigit2_zps1743b42e.jpg)
Then I started on the RH pannier top. Out of curiosity I laid a straight edge from side to side and.. well, I was surprised on how level they already were.
LH
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/lhpanniertop_zps1fcdfe8f.jpg)
RH
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/rhpanniertop_zpscdb49c48.jpg)
I have the LH side to weld up tomorrow and hopefully more of the rear section. It's definitely not perfect. But it is going together well enough that I should get many decades of use out of the old moke :)
I am very happy that every day it seems to be racing towards being able to be removed from the jig and bolted to some subframes, It is an amazing transformation from..
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/mokeonground_zpsa670daf3.jpg)
to this.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/endoftheday_zps08950b2a.jpg)
And just because I felt like it, here is a bit of a jumpy walk around video taken with my Phone. It's definitely a moke again and no longer a pile of panels! :D
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/th_mokewalkaround_zps46d00743.jpg) (http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/mokewalkaround_zps46d00743.mp4)
(it's a movie click on the picture above)
Moking Right Along
Chris
Its impressive to say the least.
I 36.gift is starting to look like a moke again.
Hey all, and thank you for the comments!
Like I mentioned last time I got both pannier tops welded in and then decided to seam weld the joint between the pannier top and the heelboard, It tuned out rather nice if I do say so myself... seeing as I had to cut out the seam weld massage panels around a bit more and then re-weld it. I didn't like how the pannier top was not lining up with the rear inner hull sides to my satisfaction.. And after fixing it and doing a bit of dress work I think it was work well spent!
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/flushpanniertopandrearwing_zpse1276c62.jpg)
Along with that I was able to start tossing paint on the front subby as it has finally returned from the sand blaster and now is looking nice.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/frontsubby_zpse3975942.jpg)
while digging around at moms house I found the seat I think I will use for a bit, it came from and is the only remaining part from a Honda FL400 Pilot. It's very comfortable but.. that blue is very loud!
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/tempseat_zpsbb776ed7.jpg)
this morning when I got up I continued welding as I have been known to do lately and finished welding as much of the load floor in as I can reach from the top, more of the pannier tops, and fully welded on the LH rear wing after checking for true and square... Yes the little chair was what I used inside the moke to drill and weld the front of the load floor without having my legs go numb :p
This thing seems closer and closer every day but yet further and further away, every job makes two more it seems. For example, I dug out my manifold and parts for the 1 1/2 SU I picked up recently.. and the only abutment plate I seem to have is this ugly thing... So now I need gaskets, spacer, and abutment plate before I can use this on the 1100... oh joy.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/oddabutmentplate_zpsa56e2a7e.jpg)
Until next time.
Friendly Neighborhood Rusty Moke Nut.
Chris
Well, just a quicky update this time, most of my work was fairly non-photogenic. I welded up the last rear wing and a portion of the RH pannier top, followed by cleaning up the edges of the pannier tops so I could Ospho them before priming. Once that was done I started cleaning up several bits that I will need to reuse like the rear seat outer front mounts, a reat top bow bracket and the rear panel. After doing some preliminary hammering on the rear panel I took and stuck it on the back of the moke as a test fit. It seems to look ok!
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/rearpaneltest_zps911fa6e9.jpg)
And then it hit me.. the urge to full blown mock-up... I couldn't help myself D:
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/couldnthelpmyself_zps6862fcb0.jpg)
It still needs a fair amount of welding under the front wings but it is ALMOST ready to leave the jig for the last time!
Woohoooo!
I might do more welding tonight >.<
The owner of a "rusty POS terd of moke" that is making a comeback
Chris
Back with another update! The Jig has been discarded! Err.. But first...
I had to work on the back panel so I could clean it up and bolt it on (yeah not weld, I plan to replace it in the future). Then last night I finished off my welding to the front flitch panels so the front was strong enough to be removed, I still need to weld along the front of the toeboard but had no access on the jig.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/cleanoldbackpanel_zpscff9907a.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/weldinginnerflitch_zps2f4b00d5.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/weldedinnerflitch_zps83f2b824.jpg)
Let me just say... welding overhead under a fende... err.. wing is not fun! You tend to get hot burning sensations... often!
Oh I also received a bit to help out the wiring, my relays I had ordered and a bag of Lucas solder-less bullet connectors for my lights. Wheeee!
But where were we.. oh yeah...
IT'S OFF THE JIG! Yay Woohoo 71.gif 22.gif 4.gif *cough cough* Well now I can get to other spots that need work and assemble the side boxes :)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/offjig_zpsd76c0794.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/offjig2_zps05d4a153.jpg)
I will likely work on this side first and then move over to the other side to finish it off then drop it on subframes.
Until next time,
Chris
Minor update today... only because I forgot to take more pictures :D
I did quite a bit of welding on the RH side of the moke today completely building up the battery box and rest of that pannier side with the exception of the side cover, that will only be bolted on for now.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/rhpannierbuilt_zps700975c1.jpg)
I also had to find a cone compressor to build up my front subframe, I managed to find a 14mm x 2mm pitch bolt long enough to install a cone in a subframe. $3.60 was MUCH cheaper then a real one :p
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/cheapconecompressor_zpseef616e4.jpg)
Tomorrow I plan to build up the pannier box on the LH side of the moke and several other projects including finishing the welding on the toeboard and heelboard, and it may even go so far as to building the panel I need to install the rear seats! Pfft who needs rear seats anyways ;)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/tomorrowsjob_zps9cc5e168.jpg)
Untill next update
The Manic Moker
Chris
It has been a few tiring days since my last post, as I stated I intended to build up the other pannier side. This required first grinding off all the welds where the tank cover bolts so I could bolt it on and square everything up.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/weldsgroundforcoverfitment_zps1c2ff06e.jpg) (http://s1202.photobucket.com/user/clm1977/media/Moke/weldsgroundforcoverfitment_zps1c2ff06e.jpg.html)
Once the cover was in place I drilled out the heelboard for the fasteners and tack welded the divider in place in line with the cover. Once that was done I lined up the new floor so I could make matching holes in the new floor section and once everything was lined up it got welded into the dividers and the floor followed with the outer sill panel being welded on.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/aligningwithtankplate_zps195ee183.jpg) (http://s1202.photobucket.com/user/clm1977/media/Moke/aligningwithtankplate_zps195ee183.jpg.html)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/LHpannierassembled_zps4abf6956.jpg) (http://s1202.photobucket.com/user/clm1977/media/Moke/LHpannierassembled_zps4abf6956.jpg.html)
I also bodged the engine steady back together at that point... I used a section of 1/8 inch plate to form a triangular gusset and seam welded everything together, it was an awkward weld to do buried in the engine bay but it appears well strong enough.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/weldedsteady_zps9c87d08b.jpg) (http://s1202.photobucket.com/user/clm1977/media/Moke/weldedsteady_zps9c87d08b.jpg.html)
And then proceeded to create a hole in the ozone layer putting Rustoleum automotive primer on the bottom of the moke.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/primedfloor_zps795c7d37.jpg) (http://s1202.photobucket.com/user/clm1977/media/Moke/primedfloor_zps795c7d37.jpg.html)
This primer, while cheap seems to hold up well, I have some on the A post of my van which has been out in the weather for almost two years with no rust.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/mini%20van/primeronapost_zps79179acb.jpg) (http://s1202.photobucket.com/user/clm1977/media/mini%20van/primeronapost_zps79179acb.jpg.html)
Next step is to do was start bolting things on... !!!
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/mokebottom_zps786f990c.jpg) (http://s1202.photobucket.com/user/clm1977/media/Moke/mokebottom_zps786f990c.jpg.html)
OMG It's on wheels (well two of them..)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/onrearwheels_zps2815c5db.jpg) (http://s1202.photobucket.com/user/clm1977/media/Moke/onrearwheels_zps2815c5db.jpg.html)
Oh and the battery box looks good :)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/batterybox_zps8dc0b377.jpg) (http://s1202.photobucket.com/user/clm1977/media/Moke/batterybox_zps8dc0b377.jpg.html)
Working on assembling the front end right now along with soo many other things... >.<
Chris
Quote from: clm on April 14, 2013, 01:43:44 AM
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/mokebottom_zps786f990c.jpg) (http://s1202.photobucket.com/user/clm1977/media/Moke/mokebottom_zps786f990c.jpg.html)
OMG It's on wheels (well two of them..)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/onrearwheels_zps2815c5db.jpg) (http://s1202.photobucket.com/user/clm1977/media/Moke/onrearwheels_zps2815c5db.jpg.html)
Chris
OH YA!!!! 4.gif
That's gotta be a great feeling!
Especially when you remember what I started with 2 months ago!
Thanks Mudhen :)
Chris
That's great! Amazing job over that period of time.
I could probably increased the quality of the work but my driveable in June deadline would never have been possible to meet >.<
Chris
It's been kind of slow lately but things seem to be creeping along. I had an idea on how to mount the roll bar and use my top bows at the same time.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/rollbaridea_zps6ac99e51.jpg)
I have decided to pull the rear feet in towards the center and build some brackets that wrap around the edges of the wing so they both fit :)
On some other news, I tested the oil pressure on the 1100... I will let the picture explain.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/1100oilpressure_zps761e6d28.jpg)
It seems to be a fair amount for cold oil but eh. I guess it will work for hopefully 500 miles :)
I also went ahead and welded up the fuel tank.. scary but seems to have worked although I need to rebuild one of the mounting feet now.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/fueltankrepair_zps004645bb.jpg)
Following that I did a rough mod on the idea I have had for a while.. the "blow your mind/why hasn't someone done this before?" mod.
First, build a bar that can bridge across the front of the pedals.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/pedal-mastermod_zps85abc8ba.jpg)
Next add some screws that can adjust the stop point of pedals so they don't spring back too far.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/pedal-mastermod2_zps0d582420.jpg)
Then you take the push rod out of the master cylinder...
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/mastercylinderpushrodbefore_zpsee5e2b9b.jpg)
..And carefully grind the ball at the end smooth with the rest of the shaft.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/mastercylinderpushrodafter_zps8525324f.jpg)
You will likely want to bolt the push rod to the pedal assembly so you can get slight friction so the pushrod stands straight up with the master cylinder body off.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/easyinstallmastercylinder_zps0d16e918.jpg)
You can now swap a master cylinder FROM the engine bay with ONLY two bolts. The screws under the pedal bod adjusts the free play.
And you get...
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/th_nomoreremovingthepin_zps64186bd4.jpg) (http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/nomoreremovingthepin_zps64186bd4.mp4)
I will be doing this on all future minis I own without fail... :)
After that I decided before I can mount the fuel tank I needed to setup the wiring that goes behind it so had to diverge on a tangent putting together the three to two wiring for my rear tail lights.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/lhrearlights_zps0def6c8d.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/rhrearlights_zps3f157586.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/rearlights_zps9b590640.jpg)
If you noticed the pair of dual filament lamp holders on each side, that is because all 4 lights will act as the brake lights and both lights on each side will act as that sides turn signals. Along with that all 4 lights will be the normal tail lights which should give me twice the rear lights of a normal mk1 moke without actually having any more lights! :)
Oh and I built up and tested my relay pack before finding a place to mount it.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/rearlightrelay_zps357b02c1.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/rearlightrelay2_zpsd958aee1.jpg)
And that gets us up to the time I posted this. I now need to get the fuel tank mounted and ready for fuel next and then continue the wiring forward.
Moke Crazy Chris
Chris
Great job in every way - Astounded by the effort and completion so far. Are you going to get real familiar with a grinding wheel and bump down those spot welds?
Whats the plan for the final outcome? Color Fittings.
I might need to call and talk and ask some advise.. I just brought in a 66 Moke - looks more solid than yours but Toe Board floors and RH Side rebuilt!
Keep up the hard work!
Oh yes indeed, very familiar with the grinder. The final outcome won't happen for a while, at least until I get a custom top made. It should save ruined paint at the least :)
Before you start cutting brace that thing up, without a roof the floor is the only source of strength. And when you are rebuilding it, pay particular attention to the triangular sill section. Make sure you paint the inside before you assemble it. It is the mokes Achilles heel.
Chris
I have been wiring lately, taking the original wiring harness and the late harness and merging them together. Lots of work and not alot of time for pictures.
Here is the harness before binding it,
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/wiresunbound_zpse1db9551.jpg)
And after binding it.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/wiresbound_zps29561533.jpg)
And the fuseboxes, the two fuse one is for normal use the 4 fuse box is for the relays. It has a relay for main beam and for dip beam, a relay for normal running lights, a relay for accessories, and a 4 relay block for tail lights... as for those tail lights, here is a little video.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/th_taillights_zps9cd584bb.jpg) (http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/taillights_zps9cd584bb.mp4)
BTW yes I know the brake light on the upper right light was not working in this video, this has been fixed :)
Chris
In case your interested..
My wire harness to my Moke is pretty complete and will be re used in its entirety - The fabric wrapping has fallen off, however - While working at the Volvo Dealership -- we used a Black Fabric Tape to re do or insulate any electrical repairs that were done.
Tessa- Tape - Germany... It actually has a Volvo Part number if you wanted to get it from a dealership.,
One roll will wrap an entire MIni / Moke Harnes. Black Fabric- Felt ish - sticky on one side.
Can get part number from Dealership friend if interested.
I think it gives the classic BMC Fabric look without the new plastic modded covering look.
(http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii125/jedduh01/20130422_192426_zps7c55a701.jpg) (http://s263.photobucket.com/user/jedduh01/media/20130422_192426_zps7c55a701.jpg.html)
(http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii125/jedduh01/20130422_192433_zps370a0a5d.jpg) (http://s263.photobucket.com/user/jedduh01/media/20130422_192433_zps370a0a5d.jpg.html)
(http://i263.photobucket.com/albums/ii125/jedduh01/20130422_192450_zpsc670bee1.jpg) (http://s263.photobucket.com/user/jedduh01/media/20130422_192450_zpsc670bee1.jpg.html)
That wire wrap looks nice, but I am just going to use modern stuff, I am not worried about concourse points, this will be my fun car ;)
Well after wiring I said heck with it and slapped the front subby in even though I still need to band the cv boots.. and had the satisfaction of having the moke back on 4 wheels finally :)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/frontsubbyin_zpsd3760e03.jpg)
And did the next sensible thing, tossed a few parts on for good measure.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/mockup_zps0b5f3965.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/mockup2_zps5cf9506c.jpg)
Everything is working so far except for engine wiring and it's not in yet and front calipers which are not on yet. One thing I wanted to toss out there is this... when I picked up this moke it had this small Desmo light mounted on top of the speedo pod for an interior light, I have decided to keep it seeing as it has a fair amount of history with this moke. Unfortunately it has lost it's lense/diffuser somewhere and I would love to find another one to put back in, any help on that would be appreciated as I can't for the life of me find anything online. Here are a couple pics of it.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/desmodashlight_zps5ae9d9c3.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/desmodashlight2_zpsbc113acd.jpg)
I ran oil pressure tests on the remaining assembled mini engines I had with disheartening results. The original moke engine only pumped up to maybe 40 psi cold on the starter, however it did this almost immediately. And the 850 that came out of my original mini would not pull oil pressure no matter how much I primed it. So engines came apart so I could swap out the really low final drive to the higher 3.7 final drive transmission from my original 850. For right now it's going to be a straight transmission swap.
The 1100 engine I have seems to be a strange beast in it's own right. As I received it in the wrecked wagon it had the 3 sync remote box with 4.27 final drive, big bore smog port head, dual 1 1/4 su carbs. And then when I pulled it from it's box tonight? I found more interesting stuff; a brand new clutch disk with a double spring coil spring clutch... 12 total stacked like double valve springs,
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/doublespringcoilclutch_zpsd6ebe57a.jpg)
and when I get it pulled completely off I am greeted with what appears to be a balanced/modified crank and rod set, what looks like a new cam, decent looking cross hatch marks in the cylinders, and a squeak that was determined to be piston rings as the engine was rotated by hand. A squeak that sounds like a squeaky rubber seal.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/crankandrodwork_zpsc810a421.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/crankandrodwork2_zpse7065b15.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/cylinderhone_zps42329e19.jpg)
I'm thinking it is not fully run in yet, but that it is my best bet for an engine for the moke for now, hopefully it will have no problems with the 500 mile trip I plan to take in June.
Until next time!
I have gotten my tires ordered and I am waiting for a clutch seal to allow me to finish assembling the 1100, I have however got some more jobs taken care of. Speaking of the 1100 I had a chance to glance in it's intake ports, they are nice and cleaned up :)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/cleanedupports_zps12489c3a.jpg)
As for the jobs, I got my front shocks mounted, I have no idea what brand they are, they are some kind of adjustable ones and they seem rather long.. at least the back ones do. A friend said they might be spax "penny adjust" shocks.. but *shrug*
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/unknownadjustableshocks_zpsd3581efa.jpg)
Oh and while I was in there.. I discovered a rather horrible issue. Apparently standard 3 1/2 inch wheels don't fit correctly with 'S' brakes! GAH! And I find this out AFTER I have tires ordered. Upon investigation they are hitting these lumps, you can just see the shiny spot.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/brakecaliperinterference_zps09eaaf73.jpg)
So I have been forced to buy some thin spacers and get a little creative with the flap disk until I had no more interference. Now this might make some of you scream out in horror, but it will work out all right. Even modified slightly for clearance they are still by far better then rivet wheels! =)
Another couple of projects I have been able to check off is rear bumper and pannier side plate mountings. Yeah yeah bolting them on and clearancing the wheels are somewhat bodgerific but it's just so I can get it on the road now and still get in there and clean up the side boxes later. The pannier sides will eventually be fully welded on!
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/rearbumperandsideplateson_zpsa75072fe.jpg)
Along with that I found some creative ways to bend more curve into the bonnet and have been able to get it where I can latch the hooks now... yay!
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/hoodbentenoughtofastencatches_zpsc9cc064e.jpg)
And the last bit for today.. another sort-of mod. Sort-of seeing as it actually doesn't mod the moke any and easily lets me move the seat back for a bit more adjustability. After thinking about it a bit I decided to use a couple pieces of angle iron a little over 13 inches long. I used angle iron as the 90 degree return strengthens the thin strip on the bottom which allows the strip to be thin so the seat is not raised by hardly any height compared to the passenger seat. It turned out quite well in the end, although I realized too late that I only needed 4-6 countersunk holes and not all of them countersunk :)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/nomod-seatadjuster_zpsac2dc4df.jpg)
Driver seat set up in the rearmost adjustment point with both seats adjusted all the way back, rear passenger seat also all the way back.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/bothseatsfullback_zps518ccc85.jpg)
Still at the rearmost adjustment point, but with the driver(LH) seat slid all the way forward, others are still slid back.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/rhfullback-lhfullforward_zpsfc2e9650.jpg)
It works rather well and gives a ton of adjustability if I do say so myself :)
Here is one last view of it.. from the other side.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/anotherview_zps33137555.jpg)
And with that I will call it a night... Tomorrow I plan to take my 5 bare rims up to be blasted and powder coated and likely pick up some steel for a spare tire mount, but that is later. :)
Chris
Well as I stated before, I took my 5 wheels in to the powder coater, and I picked up some steel for the spare tire mount... which I think I promptly overbuilt :) As I have plans to put larger wheels and tires on the moke I wanted to make the tire mount switchable in case it needs to be raised up later. AND I ran into the issue that my back panel was somewhat bent.. (Bent!? Never!) and would not allow the spare mount to sit flat so I added a bar between the mount and the bumper. Adding the bar gave me a shelf that I found fit a small scissor jack perfectly. :)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/sparetireandjackmount_zps931a3e0b.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/sparetireandjackmount2_zps61b28fd2.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/sparetireandjackmount3_zps5d2f348f.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/sparetireandjackmount4_zps209b1872.jpg)
I also broke down and fixed the old number plate light holder from the old tinny wagon I had years ago, and once repaired mounted and wired in my licence plate light, hopefully my plate holder will show up from California eventually so that it can be bolted on as well.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/licenceplatelight_zps1086a79f.jpg)
The 1100 engine is more or less back together, I just need to torque down the clutch bolt and bolt the wok on. I should have engine mounts to mount the engine Monday. While going through my clutch parts I singled out the best friction plate I had.. which oddly seems to be a built up plate as opposed to the one piece that my other ones were built up on... odd.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/4plateclutchdisk_zps6daef0f1.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/1100almostready_zps2ac326e1.jpg)
I dug up an interesting netting stretch bag that seemed to be made to fit in the back of a Moke :)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/rearnet_zps20aaf8b2.jpg)
The windscreen was interesting to fit into the frame, interestingly enough it still had a registration sticker on it from New York 1979.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/windscreenon_zps3162665a.jpg)
Oh and.. a couple donuts ready for the their creamy center :)
Vredestein Sprint Classic 145/80sr10. They should work for now.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/newtires_zpsaff3a055.jpg)
Mokingly,
Chris
Another update and another tip toe closer to driving!
First thing on the agenda, I welded on the replacement bonnet hinge bracket.. (although I didn't take a picture until after the engine was in!)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/bonnethingereplaced_zps1895366a.jpg)
After that, I received the rest of the parts I needed to assemble the engine, all hoses replaced, new belts, good radiator bolted on... a 1275 top rad bracket due to the 1275 head. And it was ready to get off the bench :)
And to meet the moke :D
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/mokeandengine_zps878adef0.jpg)
I like that pic for some reason... it has character ;)
Once everything was lined up I brought in the cherry picker and rigged it up using a vice grip for a hook and a heavy duty tiedown strap to pick it up... Sounds risky but it worked fine. Once everything was rigged, I proceeded to stuff the engine in the poor moke ;)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/enginstall1_zps01693f2f.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/enginstall2_zps2bc13f5b.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/enginstall3_zps9debe44b.jpg)
And finally..
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/enginein_zps46370a89.jpg)
And once the engine was sitting inside I doubled up the strap and used some stands for safety... And lifted up the whole front of the moke to get to the bolts underneath!
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/liftingmoke_zps5d7df41d.jpg)
And you thought it was flaky lifting up JUST the engine with a vice grip and a tie down strap! :D
Yeah the cherry picker is missing all of it's chains.
Actually quite easy to install... bolting the engine mounts in were a different story, but you all already know that :) I don't yet have the dive lines hooked up as I still need to grease my u-joints in my metal QL500s. Although I did install my shift lever, my still in bag shift knob ;) and tossed my carb setup in to make sure everything fits.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/shiftleverin_zps8efad2cd.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/newknob_zpse379039a.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/carbtestfit_zpse35dabfe.jpg)
Tomorrow I plan to grease the u-joints so I can get it back on 4 (somewhat flat) tires and do more work in the engine bay and once everything is good see if it starts :)
Until next time
Playing in the dirt.
Chris
WOW!!! Engine is in?!?!? Awesome!
Scary, but awesome! 22.gif
Love that tire carrier, too. Good stuff.
Thanks Muddy, Yeah I tend to fake things a bit when I don't have the right tools for the job!
Chris
Nothing really photographic to show, but I have gotten the quite a ways since the last post. The engine is fully in and it runs. I had a small hole in the radiator that had to be patched... Putting it back in was almost hell, I had to enlarge the hole in the bottom of the lh inner fender to actually re-install it. I picked up a Gunson Eezebleed and proceeded to blow a hole in the clutch master reservoir... Which I patched. I have my temp and oil pressure gauge mounted below the speedometer pod for now.
And ... scratch that I took some pics :)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/checkingoutthetop_zps2675e516.jpg)
Checking out the top
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/dashlight_zpsaba321a2.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/rearlights_zpscdc5cc6e.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/front_zpsa95c6df5.jpg)
I retrieved my rims today from the powdercoater... 3 weeks and they haven't been touched, I cleaned them up the best I could and tossed some paint on them along with a few rubber accessories (tires :p ) I found it really easy to mount the 10 inch tires, easier then I had come to believe mounting car tires was. I have also... insured and registered it!! So I can make the test drives legally... minus the seat belts of course.. grandfathered cars are fun! lol
I pulled out my nasty top and upon closer inspection the biggest problem with it is the rather large seams that have come undone, the top didn't rip however, it was the threads that failed. I should be able to get them restitched and the one major hole in the top patched and be able to use it until I get another one. (yay)
My fw2 wiper motor works fine... manually :) But no go electrically. I tried putting the new armature in it and it was a no go. The old armature had wires sticking out of it in random directions so I figured it was probably no good. I will end up sending it in to be repaired properly eventually, but for now I paid $39 for a generic shaft mount wiper to use in the mean time.
If all the planets line up I will be driving it in days... and taking it on a trip to my club meeting Saturday. 60 miles there, 60 miles back :) Should be an adventure!
Oh yeah... I drove it forward and backwards a couple inches to test the clutch ;)
Chris
Quote from: clm on May 21, 2013, 11:59:50 PM
Oh yeah... I drove it forward and backwards a couple inches to test the clutch ;)
Chris
We want VIDEO!!!
Incredible ingenuity. Love it.
Powder coater should have realized you build entire cars in 3 weeks. It's sort of like the 'dog years' thing - 3 months = 1 week in clm time. Do you have kids? If so I bet you had your wife deliver the babies in just 2 months... ;D
aMAZING!!! I LOVE IT!1 4.gif 4.gif 4.gif
Hey all! Here is your video Muddy, and thanks Batman :)
Guess what? The rubber has hit the road!
But first, I mounted my licence plate in the middle of the grill which should work as a form of moisture block to the distributor. I also got the cheepo wiper motor in the mail so mounted it up and got a 12 inch wiper blade for it.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/platemounted_zps49fa8afd.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/almostready_zpsab5b4927.jpg)
I am not sure I like how much the front tires poke out.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/frontwheelpoke_zpsd26ecdad.jpg)
And then the sun came out and rain went away... So I drug the moke out of the shop and got it to the street.. And it's tires touched the asphalt for the first time since I got it off the trailer a year ago :)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/ontheroad_zps37f0b703.jpg)
And drove it all over town, even got one offer to buy it... which I rejected :)
Here is a pic of the moke in the wild :D
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/inthewild_zps8b8f180f.jpg)
And if you want to see video to be sure I didn't just push it...
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/th_mokemoves_zps9a07c030.jpg) (http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/mokemoves_zps9a07c030.mp4)
(click this!)
Now to try to build a temporary top for it out of some tarps and whatnot so I don't have to keep bringing it back in the shop!
Until next post,
Chris
Awesome!!!
I just went back to page 1 and started reading again...what a project... 4.gif
RATMOKE!!!! That is exceptionally COOL!!!
Where the hell did you get that rather large stunt driver? :-\ he needs to raise the windshield!! 4.gif
61.gif
need a 126.gif mounted in the back.
haha love it!
Is that beauty going to be at MMW?
Amazing! 4.gif
biketesting> Thanks!
deanwilhite> Yes, although after my test drives I have decided to tow it, it's legs are just not long enough!
94touring> Thanks :)
batman1usa> Work-In-Progress Moke... 100% Imitation Rat look ;)
Muddy> Yeah I can't believe I have managed to get it drive able a whole month before MMW myself seeing as I only really started wrenching in the middle of Feb O.o
Chris
Truly an epic build!!!!
Woohoo the Holiday Moke made the front page again lol
I towed it to Florence OR last Saturday as I don't trust the engine enough to drive it that far yet. To tow it I built up some brackets that slid over my front bumper that bolted to a tow bar my father has. It worked a treat, about 5 minutes to hook it up and 5 minutes to take it off. With the way I rewired my tail lights I found I can use a 6 foot trailer light extension and just plug it right into 4 wires on my wiring harness. The Lucas bullet connectors are perfect fit in the 4 flat plug!
I have experienced a failure already though, my speedometer seized and destroyed the hairspring for the needle, I now need to find another 90mph standard 850 speedometer, although I did hack apart a Morris Minor speedometer clean up and lube all the moving parts sparingly and got it working in a blackface 90mph speedo body... although I doubt it reads correctly :)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/brokenspeedo_zpsba4cb236.jpg)
I also think my clutch master cylinder is failing as it's not always fully releasing the clutch... doh.
Chris
Check the numbers on the speedometer face, just above the odometer. The first series is the serial number, the second is the tpm (turns per mile). That will help determine a matching replacement. Post here - the guy that bought my yellow 1961 Mini has the original speedometer as a spare and may be willing to part with it. I can contact him to see if the tpm is a match - it was geared for a 3.76 final drive. It was a silver faced speedometer whereas yours is black. The speedometer works, but the odometer is stuck.
i also have a couple extra speedos stashed away if you need one.
I wouldn't turn down a random 90mph speedo that was somewhat functional. :)
Hey all, it has been a hectic past week.
The speedometer I rigged together failed... the needle now no longer moves... however the odometer is still working!
Last Saturday was the local town parade, car show, and cruise. I was determined to drive the moke in it and all set to take it out Saturday morning... when the u-joint fell apart! ARRGH! Apparently one of my steel ql500 caps slipped out of the U bolt... crap now I need to find another one to complete my set :(
I quickly pushed it up on ramps and proceeded to pull the remains of that joint from the moke and put in an old rubber cross joint. With everything all bolted back up tight I pulled it down from the ramps and pulled the parking brake... and the knob flew out of the end of it! O.o The Moke was not happy! But I managed to get it down to the parade starting point and shortly before the start my grandmother and my cousins daughter showed up to ride through the parade with me.
The Moke really was not happy creeping the couple miles of the parade but thankfully it did not overheat!
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/th_mokeinparade_zps1bd0422e.jpg) (http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/mokeinparade_zps1bd0422e.mp4)
click me!
After the parade I put the moke in the car show, it was the only non-American car in the whole show! And being fairly unusual it received it's fair share of attention.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/carshow_zps49ac3c6a.jpg)
After the car show there was an hour and a half cruise though the town of which the moke managed to survive without going nuclear :) I managed to win an award for having the most unique vehicle in the cruise. It was fun :) ...although I did not get many pictures due to driving the moke.
Today I took the old nasty top in and had the ripped stitching as well as the tear in the top sewn up and proceeded to mount it. For being so bad it turned out quite well if I should say so myself :)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/toprepaired_zps451fcf99.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/toprepaired2_zps1443b038.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/toprepaired3_zpsbd5704ef.jpg)
All in all a fun past couple of weeks :)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/smile_zps260c85ac.jpg)
Chris
Quote from: clm on June 03, 2013, 11:19:41 PM
Last Saturday was the local town parade, car show, and cruise. I was determined to drive the moke in it and all set to take it out Saturday morning... when the u-joint fell apart! ARRGH! Apparently one of my steel ql500 caps slipped out of the U bolt... crap now I need to find another one to complete my set :(
:-[
You know, most people would have given up right there and not gone...you just don't know when to quit, do you?
4.gif
Pat
The thought did go though my mind... but it was the right hand one that fell apart which is easy to get out and I had a rubber cross in the shop and it's only 8 nuts to remove.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/steelql500_zpsfc70a431.jpg)
I am seriously in need of a replacement cap now however as the one that fell out has disappeared, thankfully the u-joint is easily replaceable IF I can find a replacement cap.
Chris
Great to see you enjoying the car after a build like this.
Yup will really enjoy it when I get the bugs worked out!
I had a run out to moms house today to pick up the lawn mower, on the way back I tried pulling the choke while driving and found the general lethargy of the engine cleared up and I was able to accelerate up to the road speed of other drivers... That tells me it's running a bit lean at the top end I think...
It's running the 1100 engine with a 1275 smog head, a cast iron manifold, and a 1 1/2 SU with biased needle. The needle it has is an AAC needle currently, any suggestions? :)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/mokeandmower_zps86c18dc2.jpg)
Moke being used as a pickup truck! The horror!
Chris
Fuel flow and vent are good, I also checked for air leaks and did not find any... so far...
I am thinking I need to replace the distributor as well as the timing seems to move around a fair amount.
Aside from that... I think I have found an idea for how to fit Australian rear arms in my English moke and keep the little wheeler look :)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/mokeextendedrear_zpse6efcc58.jpg)
An image from the web I modified to show my idea.
I am thinking of extending the bodywork slightly to move the rear panel back far enough to clear the larger tires. I think it could be done smooth enough to still look like a stock little wheeler if it isn't sitting next to another moke. If anything it would only add 2 inches to the load bay which could be mostly hidden by some form of storage box.
... Oh, and the camper trailer I am thinking of building to tow with the moke... :)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/bits/miniairstream_zps4b5b2adb.jpg)
Also borrowed from the web and modified ;)
Chris
Quote from: clm on June 07, 2013, 01:06:38 AM
... Oh, and the camper trailer I am thinking of building to tow with the moke... :)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/bits/miniairstream_zps4b5b2adb.jpg)
Also borrowed from the web and modified ;)
Chris
That would rawk!!!!
It's a prize winning Moke!
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/jamesbondo_zps46f911a9.jpg)
...ok it's more of a gag trophy but all the real winners got was an engraved glass ;)
I'll take some pictures close up tomorrow, just got home from Mini Meet West and I am beat!
But I want to add something else... While I was there I read up on some oil pressure issues and I think my oil pump may not be in very good shape. It doesn't seem to build pressure on the starter motor only after it fires, which seems to indicate it's bleeding down. The oil pressure seems rather variable. I am thinking of pulling it and taking it to Jet Motors in Portland OR to have the bottom end inspected and corrected if need be.
And while we are on that subject, they did a bit of tuning to the moke at Mini meet, now the engine has PLENTY of torque... It will happily drive in 4th from 20ish all the way up over 65MPH. First second and third gears? Who needs them!... well ok maybe I should put the taller final drive in it like I have been wanting to do ;)
But I will try to get more story and pictures up tomorrow...
oh.. ok, here is a couple.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/MMW2013/mokeinsnowstorm_zpsffe74504.jpg)
Moke in a snowstorm at Mt Bachelor.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/MMW2013/mokecommandeered_zps41f78f37.jpg)
Commandeered by the Stig and the Queen!
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/MMW2013/rustyandmoke2xs_zps2670b0b5.jpg)
Rusty and Moke 2XS
Chris
Just to put a finishing touch to this mad 4 month long saga, The "Rusty POS terd" moke made it to the MMW and won one of the two unique awards, while it may have lacked the bondo from the title of the award, the moke fit the spirit of the award rather well :)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/jamesbondo_zps46f911a9.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/MMW2013/jamesbondoaward_zps8ebc287f.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/MMW2013/jamesbondoaward2_zps9b7b4d68.jpg)
Towing the moke to the event using my front bumper mounted towbar was a bit sketchy seeing as the front bumper is only held on by 4 bolts through sheet metal, however nothing moved and everything stayed tight. The Gearbox doesn't seem any worse for wear to my untrained hand, although it's just an old used 850 magic wand gearbox and not worth hardly anything. The Nissan I used as a tow vehicle was very gutless especially going up the hills... I thought it was because it was towing the moke, but later when I drove to Mt Bachelor I realized the weight of the moke was not really having any impact on it!
I had been seriously amped up prior to MMW and had not been able to get any sleep at all since Saturday night, Thankfully I managed to drive the 250 miles uneventfully, got my motel room, and then found the Hotel MMW was going to be held at... Although I was early :p It was 4 hours before the registrations opened and someone finally relieved me of my entrance fees.
After registering the car wash opened up. Although there really is not much to wash on Rusty, the person heading the car wash egged me on that he could put a shine on anything... He was not ready for my moke however ;) Irregardless I washed the tires and the chrome and any mud splats I found off the primer. I also washed the hood and hosed off the windshield... inside and out... followed by hosing out the whole inside of the moke! You got to love vehicles without any real interior! :D
After that scene I wandered around a bit and met some people saw some great cars and the Alan pulled in with the Yellow moke, I didn't realize at this point it was 2XS, not until the show and shine the next day did I realize that. I also saw quite a few other cars including a black Crayford Riley Elf and the one car of the week that totally blew my mind...
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/MMW2013/mywoodysdoppleganger2_zps0bd255be.jpg)
This estate was almost an exact twin of my bent one, a couple months newer and an Austin instead of a Morris.. but.. That yellow internal tank smooth roof woody gives a good indication of what mine looked like once :)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/woody/sideview1.jpg)
I had a blast there driving the moke on pretty much everything but the autocross and the rally, I missed the rally due to not having a navigator and well, Jet motors was tuning up the engine until after it started so I just hung around at the "pits" The Moke in it's pre-tuned state fared fairly well on the run up to Mt Bachelor which has been the longest single drive since I got the moke driveable. Speaking of Mt Bachelor... dang that was cold! I was under the impression it was going to be fairly warm for Mini Meet... Snow flurrys were not something I was ready for! Thanks to Mt Bachelor resort for loaning me a coat to wear so I could drive back to town and buy a coat of my own! And well, it has no seatbelts so was ineligible for use in the Auto(snow)cross and the funkhana was canceled.
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/MMW2013/mokeinsnowstorm_zpsffe74504.jpg)
Even with the shinier mokes there I am surprised on how many people commented favorably on in saying to not change a thing... not something I can do however as I don't want it to re-dissolve ;)
After the snow storm I headed back to the motel room to rest before the parade, upon exiting the room so I could get something from the Nissan, what did I see?
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/MMW2013/RustyandChuckHelekersWagon_zps057e5a14.jpg)
Apparently I wan't the only mini person who was staying in this dive of a motel! It turned out to be Chuck Heleker when I knocked on the door. We chatted a while he told me of past mini escapades I showed him some of the work I had done on the moke to get it here and then I let him get back to working on his speech for the get together that evening.
The Parade was a blast, I showed up somewhat early and they kept flagging me forward.. and forward.. and forward. Right up near the front I had a couple ask if they could ride in it through the parade, I had no problems with that, they asked if I could put the top down, it was slightly sprinkling at times... but it is a moke, very little water will hurt inside it... So the top came down... Then I saw they were dressed as the Stig and the Queen and she asked if she could sit up on the folded top! I mentioned it might not be too comfortable so she acquired a cushion and rode that way during the parade. I did offer to let the Stig drive but apparently he was tired of driving at this point so I chauffeured them through the parade ;)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/MMW2013/mokecommandeered_zps41f78f37.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/MMW2013/mokeonparade_zpsef1dff1c.jpg)
As mentioned earlier I missed the rally with the Jet Motors people tweaking the moke, although this is likely a good thing I don't know if the oil pump would be up to a 3-4 hour drive and I had no co-driver :)
I can't wait until next years Mini meet but rather annoyed it's 2/3 the way across the US to get there! At least I have about another year to get a decent engine together and do the final bodywork on the moke <IMG SRC="/sysimages/SF_Smile.gif" width=19 heigh=19 align=absmiddle class=msgSmiles>
I am very very happy and content I purchased the infamous Spank Moke, If I had to do again I would purchase it all over again without a moments hesitation.
Next up on the agenda unfortunately is to pull the motor and find out why my oil pressure is fubar. I am guessing the oil pump is no good, but I may need to rebuild the bottom end if it's caused other damage, check back later for the consensus
Chris
P.S. more pictures are available on photobucket at http://s1202.photobucket.com/user/clm1977/library/MMW2013 (http://s1202.photobucket.com/user/clm1977/library/MMW2013)
Great write up, Chris! Sounds like MMW was a blast. Not sure I'd have liked the snow, though. :-\
Hurry up and create a thread for your Estate build... ;D
There is no estate build yet it's still an estate storage.... Eventually though :)
Chris
Not many updates recently, I have been recovering from the spending spree getting this Moke to Mini Meet West.
I did take and pull out the 1100 as I said I was going to do, once I had it out and apart I found the oil pump was this side of mangled I could not even turn the shaft by hand, instead needing a screwdriver to pry it around... surprisingly the crank looks perfect and the bearings look like they have lots of life left in them even though I plan to replace them to be on the safe side.
-1100 being pulled-
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/1100beingpulled_zpsca3e98e8.jpg)
-oil pump annulus-
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/1100oilpump_zpse3320e52.jpg)
-center main bearing and journal-
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/1100centermainbearing_zps33328772.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/1100centermainjournal_zpsd709f859.jpg)
-number 4 rod bearing and journal-
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/1100number4rodbearing_zps1d40e79a.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/1100number4rodjournal_zpsc6eb22c3.jpg)
-random shots of polished/smoothed/lightened? rods and crank in the 1100-
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/smoothed1100number1rodandcrank_zps9e1b0186.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/smoothed1100number4rod_zps1559d645.jpg)
I took the opportunity to put the Original 850 back into the Moke, and after a day swapping out waterpumps a few times managed to get an one that neither howled nor leaked like a fire hose... I had not hooked up the pressure gauge yet so all I knew was the engine ran.
-850 degreased-
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/original850degreased_zpscac5a977.jpg)
-850 back where it came from-
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/850backinmoke2_zps7af3a6c6.jpg)
Well the transmission is definitely seriously loose with rather vague shifting but all gears work and it doesn't jump out of any of them, the clutch works well, and it seems to start if you even give the key a dirty look heh. In fact I don't even have the choke hooked up and it doesn't give any indication of needing it.
Yesterday I decided to scare myself and hooked up the oil pressure gauge... Remember I only got maybe 30psi cranking pressure on the test gauge when I was testing.
You know what?
I am blown the heck away.... This engine, the engine that was first bolted in this Moke the day it rolled off the Longbridge line almost 48 years ago, has almost perfect oil pressure and does not seem to smoke or use any oil. It starts up around 60+psi oil pressure stone cold and once it is fully hot with a 7+mile 55-60mph blast down the road... It does not fall below 45psi oil pressure. I have to just about stall the engine to hit 40.
-hot oil pressure at idle, temp gauge not connected (oddly the moke engine had no sender ;) )-
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/hotoilpressureatidle_zps19b5ef79.jpg)
Hindsight is 20/20... If I would have just put the mokes correct engine in It would have easily driven to Bend and back with no problems!
Once again I say INSANE!
Did I mention I have not changed the oil in it yet? This is likely 30 year old oil... I will be changing it this weekend. O.o
I also took the time to start assembling the 1275 silver seal short block I have everything is looking perfect so far...
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/silverseal1275gtshortblock_zpscde1d6ef.jpg)
I am mainly assembling it so the crank and pistons aren't laying around loose to get damaged. I am not going to put the big bore head back on the 1100 as thankfully the block is not pocketed.
-1275 head from the 1100-
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/1275headfrom1100_zps17e18e0a.jpg)
And I can do that as I have this which has been laying around for many years on my shelf.. a stock mg1100 head, seems perfect to put on a mg1100 engine for some reason ;)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/stockmg1100head_zps1277ac69.jpg)
(http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb374/clm1977/Moke/mg1100head_zps03272308.jpg)
I am going to need to scrape up some funds now for the bearings oil pump and gasket set for the 1100, but for now the moke has a nice reliable engine to use in the bean time...
850 POWER!!!
Chris
Is it a straightforward swap to put a 1275 head on an 1100 block? Worth it? (guessing 'no' since you sound happy to getting rid of it)
It's a straightforward swap if the valves clear, the same can be said for any small bore engine really. I was not so much happy to get rid of it as I was happy to get a surplus big bore head for my 1275 engine :)
Chris
Hey - I want to say Spank You Very Much for your awesomely- detailed resto and documentation.
This part "...and once it is fully hot with a 7+mile 55-60mph blast down the road... " captures the true amazingness of Mokes! As trick as it is to build them up - I found my true joy in learning to properly drive them stock.
I had mine from 2002 until last year. I drove yours in at least 3 of Spank's incarnations for LeMons races. I am personally responsible for inflicting some of that body damage (oh, the horror) which you have been repairing. I tried hard to get those metal seats for mine - but Spank was keeping everything for the next 'someday' owner. My special talent was my amazing ability to NOT BREAK THE CAR while racing! which stemmed from driving mine as a daily driver for many years, including a 5 month stretch of 65 miles each way to work. I highly recommend running a heater hose up the pant leg, and wearing earplugs on freeways.
Most of my parts are Portugese or Cagiva - but I still have a few odd bits if you are still looking for things. Look me up,
Sandia
Just browsing some of the old threads, the moke has been off the road for a couple years due to bearings falling apart in the transmission. I am going to get it back on the road this year however in the next couple months. But if mokegirl ever stops by here again, this was not the moke Spank raced, it was one he had bought from an estate sale in new york and then sold on the Minimania site... It does however have the windshield frame and top bars of that race moke. :)
So many projects, not enough money. If only I could win the lottery and clone myself a dozen times...
Need to know the last 7 #s of the vin as it might be one of the first 50 imported to the usa. Please.
Prbraun1@gmail.com