The directions that came with the brackets are not clear to me. It is raining so I have no place to install them anyway.
The directions say:
"Now offer up the bracket to the subframe and use the original bolts to secure the bracket through the holes on the base plate. The socket button head screws that are supplied fit in the two vertical holes on the angle section of the bracket."
My interpretation is, original bolts on bottom and replacement button heads on the upright side facing the subframe?
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Yes, that's how I hear it too....maybe using the button heads in the vertical part just allows more room to adjust the camber? I tighten them all sort of equally, the vertical ones snugged up first to pull the bracket forward, then the bottom ones to pull it down tight to the subframe. Then tighten them all....I always use new bolts....5/16 UNF, grade 8. It's probably overkill, but I also grease the heck out of them before putting them back in as it's very easy to break them off as they get rusted. Be careful getting the old ones out, especially the ones that go into the heel panel (Horizontal ones - the ones that face forward) they go into a captive nut and it's easy to break them or break the captive nut loose in the bracket - when that happens you'll be cutting a part of the body out to access that area and weld in a new nut. I always tighten those bolts a tiny bit first before trying to loosen them and of course use lots of penetratingly oil. If you can get them to start turning but they're really tight, loosen a bit squirt some penetrant, tighten, then loosen a bit more, more penetrant, tighten etc.
Then put the serrated part on and the big nut. Then the fun part, getting it aligned properly both for toe and camber. I use about 1/2 degree of negative camber and about 1/16" of toe in.
do the big nuts have serrations on the back side too? If so I had problem with those wanting to walk when I did the final tighten, changing the toe setting. I finally wound up just using a regular nut and flat washer, then haven't moved a bit since .
It will be more evident where those go once you run out of room to get a socket on a bolt head. Your interpretation sounds correct.
Good point, I have had to resort to a big prybar to move the control arm out of the way so I could get them started straight into the hole....you do NOT want to cross thread them!
Good luck w/ the installation. Not difficult, just not as easy as I anticipated. Here's my experience... https://www.facebook.com/notes/poser-motorsports/adjustable-rear-radius-arm-brackets/2463419833730678/ (https://www.facebook.com/notes/poser-motorsports/adjustable-rear-radius-arm-brackets/2463419833730678/)