Hi all, I'm in the midst of rebuilding the suspension and brakes on my 1991 JDM 1275. I'm replacing the shocks and springs, replacing the wheel bearings, replacing the original tie bars and control arms, adding new brake lines, and switching to smaller rotors so I can run 10" wheels.
Are there any other common repairs in this area that I should be doing while I've got everything else apart?
I just found that one of the gaskets on the right rear radius arm is disintegrating so it looks like that will be coming off for a fix also. Any ideas if this gasket is a standard size (available locally) or wait on it to get here from the UK size?
Thanks in advance for your advice!!
If you're going to remove the rear trailing arm brackets, you probably should go ahead and remove the trailing arm itself, so you can check the pin that goes thru the arm, if it's rusty or shows damage from the needle roller bearings inside you need to rebuild it - the kits are not expensive and they include the seals and bearings that go on either end. The tricky part is that when you replace the bronze bushing that one end of the pin rides on you have to ream it to fit the pin, and to do that requires a special tool.
But, there's not much point in replacing the seal and not checking to see if the bushing and bearing are ok.
You say you're replacing the springs - are you installing new rubber springs or something else?
If you're doing regular rubber springs you need to remove the upper control arms, those also have shafts riding on roller needle bearings....if you find any wear in those you should replace them too - again the kits are not expensive from MiniSpares in England.
Pics are always welcome to show us what you're doing.
Thanks Dave. I'm taking out the old Mini Sport springs and installing new springs and hi-los. The old springs look like they've been in there a while and were not real effective. I decided against going with cones due to the Vegas weather and its effect on rubber.
The upper front arms are also on my list to rebuild. Any trick to reaching the inboard bolt that holds the plate on the shaft going through the arm? It seems like it should be a simple removal but I'm finding that to be wishful thinking.
The inboard seal on the right radius arm is the one that's about gone. I'll double check the bearings when I get it out. Hopefully they will be in decent shape.
I'll work on getting some photos taken. The photos won't show much progress unfortunately with the way things have been going with the project. (Two baby steps forward/four giant leaps back). It seems like the car likes to fight me every step of the way.
Those upper control arm nuts and bolts are a PITA, no question. I think you can get them from below the car, from the front, with a long extension. The little 1/4" bolts are fun to get started again, the lower one has a nut so I do that first, then the big nut then start the inner one before I start tightening anything.
Which springs, the red or the blue ones?
I had them in my Clubman Estate, tho mine were black....the reds are the stiffest, the blue the softest, and the blacks were supposed to be somewhere in the middle.
If you need a set of red springs and hi los I'll make you a great deal on the ones I took out of my mini. They were too stiff for daily driving. I'll look on eBay for the place I got the tools for the rear arms. Has a bespoke rod for pushing out the old bearings and an adjustable reamer along with new rods and bushings.
Here's a pic of item. Cant or don't know how to link cause I have the eBay app.
I'd like to see that link too....that looks like a pretty good deal to get the reamer and the tool to remove the bushings.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MINI-REAR-RADIUS-ARM-BEARING-REMOVAL-REAMER-TOOL-PAIR-OF-RADIUS-ARM-KITS/173606183901?hash=item286bbc23dd:g:g7gAAOSwHMJYLE7W
Found it on the webs.
Dave: I'm putting in the reds with the standard height ProTech shocks. The plan (ha, ha, ha) is to be able to dial them in a bit to get the best balance of ride stiffness. The roads around here are pretty good so the ride shouldn't be impossible to dial in. The springs I pulled out were black, but they were older and weren't real responsive. It may have been the old shocks (mix of ProTech on rear and Gaz on front, both sets worn out) and/or the springs that caused the issue. The old springs are larger than the new ones with a little less than 1/2" difference in height.
gr8kornholio: Thanks for the link. I'll definitely give that a look if I need to rebuild the arm. Wish it had a quicker shipping time though. Unfortunately, I've already picked up a set of the springs.
Yea he was away when I ordered mine also. And I already had the repair kit. Well at that rate I could loan you the tool, shouldn't cost that much to mail it to you. Also I'll try and find my other repair kit.
Thanks! I'll let you know what I find when I start digging in the arms.
On that ream tool, how does it align itself? Can't tell from the pics if it fits onto the long rod (removal tool?) to sit on the needle bearing side while reaming the bushing side. Otherwise you can ream it off center.
Uhh. Not sure, it doesn't attach to anything. It is adjustable and tapered and appeared to cut smoothly but now you got me wondering. I'll have to dig it and the instructions out.
Mark, they usually have a bushing on the end opposite the bushing being reamed to keep the tool aligned.
I know Brad had an issue recently where his bushing was slightly off center. We shipped him my ream tool and it got him back center. Maybe he can chime in but I think the pin wouldn't slide through till it was re-reamed.
I also had that problem, had to install new bushes and do it again with your reamer.
Quote from: 94touring on August 24, 2019, 12:48:39 PM
I know Brad had an issue recently where his bushing was slightly off center. We shipped him my ream tool and it got him back center. Maybe he can chime in but I think the pin wouldn't slide through till it was re-reamed.
The bushing was not quite right so the shaft was too tight. Put a little side load on the reamer to enlarge it slightly and that did the trick. Still a bit tight but I figure that will smooth out with use.
That's how I did mine. Kept reaming a little at a time until it went through. Feels good but it technically could be off. May have to check those before put the subframe back in the car. I have an extra set of bushes.