In order to install my new adjustable rear toe brackets, I had to remove the two bolts per side that secure the rear subframe trunnions to the body. I had the rear subframe on jack stands when I removed the bolts, and they came out smoothly without binding. When it came time to put the bolts back in, the bolts on the left side went in without a problem. The right side bolts, however, don't line up with the threaded holes in the body.
I loosened the left side bolts and disconnected my sway bar to allow movement between the swing arm, body and the subframe and tried moving the jack stands around. I even tried placing the jack stands under the very rear of the body to allow the subframe to hang unsupported, but still cannot get the holes to line up.
The picture was taken with an endoscope from inside the trunnion hole with the threaded body hole in the background. Has anyone experienced this problem and does anyone have any ideas how I might get the holes to align? Thanks!
Common problem to have. You need to pry on the trunion by sticking a large screw driver or the like between the trunion and subframe. The bushings have enough give to let it move the last little bit.
On the subject of rear toe, how important / useful is it on a spirited driven street car? I ask cause I have the what seem like very complicated camber and toe rear adjustment brackets from minispares. They were a bit of a pain to get on, and seem like they'll be a pain to adjust (tiny nuts and slots and allen bolts and such). So I was thinking of getting the much simpler set from minisport that just does camber.
Nice to know this can be an issue on the rear too. Struggled with this putting the dual tower bolts in the front of mine. Same as Dan suggested, find a good leverage point and pry a little. Of course that was after Bruce pointed out they weren't there. Love previous owners.
Mandatory 1/16 toe in on the rear. Car is unpredictable with rear toe out. I run camber at negative .75 on the rear.
The MiniSport brackets are adjustable for camber as well as toe - I prefer them actually. The serrations allow the camber to be set, then you can slide the radius arm end forward or back to adjust the toe. I run .5 camber in the back and 1/16" toe in.
Rosebud, like Dan says I use a long tapered drift to get the holes aligned, once you get one bolt in the other one usually goes in OK. Good luck!
Quote from: MiniDave on February 06, 2019, 09:19:12 AM
The MiniSport brackets are adjustable for camber as well as toe - I prefer them actually. The serrations allow the camber to be set, then you can slide the radius arm end forward or back to adjust the toe. I run .5 camber in the back and 1/16" toe in.
Thanks for the info, yea they look way simpler than the minispare ones.
Success! A combination of different jacking points and a large tapered drift into the bolt holes did the trickâafter I figured out which end of the endoscope was up. I have to confess it never occurred to me that the orientation of the camera was important.
The business end of the endoscope is a small diameter cylinder and there's no indication as to which is the top and which is the bottom. To determine if I needed to lift the body up or pull the trunnion down to align the bolt holes, the camera needs to be oriented correctly. It was only after I had been making my adjustments opposite of what they should be I yanked the endoscope out of one of the bolt holes and caught sight of my upside down garage on the screen. Duh!
I expect I'll need advice when I begin adjusting my toe brackets; the instructions are useless. Stay tuned.
I got my rear radius arm brackets installed and adjusted. Here's the backstory [link (https://www.facebook.com/notes/poser-motorsports/adjustable-rear-radius-arm-brackets/2463419833730678/)]. So, was it worth it? Meh...
Quote from: gr8kornholio on February 06, 2019, 07:09:25 AMOf course that was after Bruce pointed out they weren't there. Love previous owners.
Yikes! Hope you got it sorted
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