Restoration-Mini

Introduction:  Hello!  I have read many of your posts and gotten inspirations from lots of you and now it is time for me to finally do what I have never done before... mini bodywork.
I bought this mini as a huge project - a '70 mini.  The previous owner had actually started to do a Honda swap in it.  He had basically cut out the needed parts, put in the subframe, and the Honda engine, and put it up for sale.  I bought it, made a wiring harness and everything else that it needed and completed it so it would run.  I drove it like this for about 2 years, but when I could look around while sitting in the driver's seat and see the ground whooshing by in about 15 different spots, I decided I finally need to tear it down and completely go through it from the ground up before I occasionally fit my family in there with me.  So far, I have completely rebuilt the engine and tranny, including re-gearing and putting in a limited slip diff.
Just getting started on bodywork and need to call in professional help (you guys).  I need to do full floor replacement, flitch panel replacement, and a ton of stuff in between, but this is where I am starting and my immediate questions.   Eventually, I will be touching about everything from the floor pan to about 3 inches up the body.  After completely sandblasting it, it was clear that someone has already put a ton of patches on this car.  They basically welded a good piece of metal overtop rust.  I hope to fix all that.  But it makes it a lot worse when trying to cut out pieces.
I am using Magnum replacement panels and opted for ordering quarter pans to save shipping.  Half pans and full pan were nuts to ship.  I notice they gave me a bit more material than needed, so i have a choice of where I should have my weld seam break.  ??Should it break on one of the flanges of the box cross member?  Or do you have it break in the middle of the box cross member??
Also, I am getting ready to cut out for a full flitch panel replacement.  To get the alignment correct, ??do you guys bolt it using the hinge holes for the doors and assume that alignment is correct??  Or do you get out the a-panel and mock fit it and then the door, ect??  (See picture)  If so... how do you do that?
Also... ??what tools are you guys using to grind welds in tight spaces??  Example, the PO welded in a new floor, they just put the pan on the inside and welded it on top of the old one.  I want to cut call that out and do it correct, but I don't know how to cut out the last little remainder of the floor where it is in the corner caused by the tunnel and cross member? (See picture)  I have a 4 inch grinder... but like tools.
Last question... for this post...  Both the flitch panel and the floor pan have flanges.  ??Should the flanges of the flitch be on the outside of the floor pan??  It sort of seems like the flitch panel is too tall, meaning it looks like the floor runs at an angle back to the cross member.  If I put the floor on the inside, it seems like there will eventually be too large of a gap with the outer sill.  Thoughts?

Pics attached, one picture of what she used to be... and will be again... but better.

Hi Ben ! Welcome

Welcome Ben!

I have questions about changing the final drive gearing - which Honda do you have? D series or twin cam?

Dan will be along shortly to help with your body questions...

BTW, where are you located?

D series.  I had the 4.25 f/d.  Ended up putting in the 3.722.  It should put it back closer to what the Civic car would have been expecting with Honda15 inch wheels.  I am running 13's so its about 70mph 3100 rpm, vs what it used to be - 3600 for 70rpm.  I am located in the Charlotte NC area.

I have a friend with a D series who's thinking of changing his, and trying to decide on the 3:72 vs the 3:54 considering how light the car is I'm thinking it would pull the even taller gears really well, and quiet it down considerably.

Where did you get your gears and gaskets/seals? How did you pull the engine, drop the subframe of pull the motor out the top?

I just got home from NC (Asheville area) and my grandson goes to college in Charlotte......

(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1246.0;attach=6134;image)

Doesn't this damage the roof panel?

Where you join the pans is really up to you.  No right or wrong place there.  The door closing panel I always bolt to where the door mounts and take it from there.  The lip of the closing panel goes over (outside) the pan along the bottom.  When you go to fit the apanel you may discover it doesn't extend far enough for the lip to fold over the door closing panel, at which time fit doors and trim the excess off the closing panel.  Aside from an angle grinder I will use a dremel or grinding bits in my drill for tight spots.

Ha!  Jedduh (Justin) has been helping me on this project... he chimed in with this picture... and also is responsible for building the awesome roof rack which the car is sitting on.  Look carefully.  It is sitting on a roof rack, so the top is not actually taking any weight (weight is transferred through the roof rails). 

To pull the engine in this setup is pretty simple.  Unbolt the subframe, disconnect everything, pick up the front of the car and push is back over the engine/subframe package.  My brother and I did that one by hand.

When you change final drive, you change it and the countershaft.  I got my gears and countershaft from Synchrotech.  While in there, I did bearings, seals, synchros, synchro springs, diff bearings and sleeves (basically made it new).  Synchrotech can sell you all that.  And it is good quality parts.

I'm not aware of a 3.54 option for f/d.  (I'm no expert either though) I was thinking my next option for larger fd was 3.250.  I was initially shooting for it, but they are hens teeth, and I am sort of glad I got what I have (not that I have actually driven it since the rebuild). 4.25, 4.058, 3.888, 3.722, 3.250 are the options I knew of.

Dan, thanks!  Got it.  I'll start with the closing panel and go from there. 

Happy Monday!  Most of my posts will probably happen on Monday.  I have three small kids, so I usually get Saturday afternoon to work on the mini (not much more, sometimes less).  Made some progress... Flitch panel is welded in, front quarter pan is tacked in. 
With a little beating and wiggling, it looks like alignment is ok, thus far. 
My next step is preparing for rear quarter pan, but to do that, I will need to repair the rear subframe mount panel.  I have a partial rear subframe repair piece (about 8 inches long or so).  I've included pictures of my progress, and the areas I will be tackling next (looks pretty rough).  I think my plan of action is to cut out most of the pan on this side I am working on, then cut out the part of the rear subframe mounting panel.  Then cut out and weld in the closing panel that goes in front of the rear wheel arch, then weld in the subframe mount panel repair piece.  Once I get that set, I think I will cut off the bottom of the rear quarter panel all the way back to the rear wheel arch (I have a repair panel for that section).  That will allow me to cut out the rest of the floor pan so I can then weld in the rear floor pan.
If I am thinking or going about this wrong... please help.  I'll take any and all help... this is my first go at anything like this (at all)!!
Also... does anyone have a picture of the underside rear area where I am working?  I can't understand what closes off the rear bin.  Nothing??  A picture looking from rear wheel area back toward subframe mount panel.  Looks like a big gap opening to bin.

Your photo looking up to the bin is correct, there will be a factory gap there.  When you go to fit your subframe attach patch panel, mount the subframe, then slide the patch panel in place, bolt it to the subframe, tack it in place, remove subframe, and finish welding it in place.

It's another Monday.  I didn't get to work much at all on the mini this weekend.  Over the Christmas holiday my real daily driver blew a coolant hose and ultimately compromised the head gasket - 92 Toyota pickup.  This weekend I needed to do the deed, new head gasket, so not much mini time.
My good buddy Jedduh01 came over to lend a hand.  Speaking of Jedduh01, if any of you guys are around Charlotte area and have a mini project (or about any other car ) that needs to be knocked out...  Jedduh01 is the man.  Anyways...
I did manage to get the rear (one side) floor cut out as well as part of the rear subframe mount.  I'm sort of wrapping my head around how it all should go back - right. 
Dan, thanks for the advice about using the subby to get my panel in place.  Good thoughts.  It would really stink to get it all welded up and the bolts not fit!
I think my next steps are to cut out where that closing panel goes in front of the rear wheel arch (area between arch and subframe mount).  Get that panel welded in, then using the subby, get the repair suframe mount piece in, then the floor.
Pics below.
Oh... and... anybody have some wheel arches?  Looks like I didn't order (but should have) wheel arches and the support for floor to wheel arch (in the boot).
   

You need a rotisserie!  Looking good though  77.gif

Definately got bigger balls than I do -  77.gif

A rotisserie would be nice!
John, I think I was more gutsy when I was ignorant.  I drove this car pretty hard during some of the mini meet up events.  As I look at all the places with rust flakes in place where there should have been metal, it makes me thankful nothing serious happened. This part of the process though is not so bad.  Basically cut some stuff out and ask Dan what to do!  Ha!
Hopefully when I get to parts where it actually needs to look aesthetically pleasing, I can do half as good as some of what you guys on here have done. 

Here's a shot of the engine/tranny package that I rebuilt... just sitting there... ready to go!

Gonna grind that Honda emblem off the valve cover? I like the Morris green engine block  ;D

Looks like a MiniTech frame, are those tow bar brackets welded to the front of your frame?

I'll bet you wind up replacing those red poly motor mount bushes for stock mounts, the car will buzz and vibrate like crazy with those - we changed Don's the first week he had it, took 50% of the vibes away.

This is my buddy's P'up, he's done over 25K miles in it since he got it freshly built at MiniTech....I've done all the work on it since.

@MiniDave - good word on the motor mounts.  I hadn't really thought of that.  I did drive it for a couple years before this tear down and it did vibrate (and rattle) a good bit, but I always chalked it up to being a car barely holding together.

The valve cover color will probably change to match the body color - once I get there.  yeah, I might shave it off then.

Those are tow brackets welded to the frame.  I towed over to the CMU event after I got it built, wasn't sure if it'd make the 'shakedown'... it did.

That's a good looking conversion.  They do good work... but are expensive (for me).

The reason I asked about the brackets is that I've been trying to figure out how to do some for Don's Pup.....the radiator side is the hard one, if you have some close up pics I'd appreciate the input!

MiniTec ARE expensive, no question. I've since built him an exhaust header and done a bunch of suspension and other work, the car has really been reliable for him as evidenced by the smiles he's driven in it.

5000 lb adjustable tow bar at harbor freight. Like $70. Take off the brackets and weld them to the frame.
The harbor freight set up allows a lot of flexibility for where you mount because the tow portion has lots of swivels.

Yes, I have one of those too - I spotted yours back in the corner there.......I built a bracket to attach to the car and the HF bar attaches to that.

How did you handle your intake manifold?

Some guys cut a chunk out of the bulkhead for clearance, some guys cut the intake runners and use silicone hoses to hook them back together....

Did you cut back the lower valance to clear the tow bar brackets? Dan has a tutorial on building a tow bar for Minis under the "DIY" heading at the top of the forum page. I used his as a base but modified it for a clubman front end - mine will work with either car.

I did a little of both for the intake. The PO had already put the engine and subframe in but that was it. The bulkhead had sort of already been cut back - some. Not enough though once I started looking at the intake. I got a guy to cut and weld it (its cast, so I didn't attempt something like that) at a tighter radius, so it fits great now. At the time when I was doing this, the silicone hoses were collapsing under vacuum, I think they got all that fixed now.

For the tow bar setup, if you look at the picture of the mini on the road in the turn and zoom in, you can see the placement of the brackets to the right and left of the red license plate. I did not cut the valence.

I can send you a couple pictures of the intake area if that helps. Not great pictures, just a couple of the area when I was taking it apart.

Ill add some memory of some details for adding the Towbar brackets I assisted in installation.

Mr Howe was OK with them being visible on installation.

First we used 1/4 steel Bar plate and made flat pieces drilled holes that matched the HF bar brackets.   
    The Actual HF brackets are Bolted to the 1/4 Plates.
The 1/4 Plates are welded to the Sub frame along the top.  And I also remember cutting triangle Gussets behind the plate for some strength to the frame behind just the top weld.

The HF Brackets Can still be taken off the frame and the remaining brackets sit flush with the valence. 
    An optional cover could easily be added to cover these up if wanted. and not be very intrusive.
 

I owe some pictures...
@MiniDave - two pictures.  Neither great and both were during tear down.  One shows the cut bulkhead area, the other shows where the intake manifold fits in that space.  You can sort of see the welds there too.

On the tow bar brackets.  I will try to get you some better pictures.  I took some, but looking at them, I can't even tell what I am looking at.  So I will try again.

Alright, got some more done last Saturday.  Cut out some more in the rear subframe and rear half floor area.  Used my subframe to position and tack in my subframe repair piece.  Then cut and welded in the closing piece that fits sort of around the subframe repair piece and closes the fender area.  Then cut and welded in the floor.  I spent some time grinding, but have some more to do. 
I still have a question.  I asked this before, but it baffles me.  The last picture is a close up of the rear subframe mount piece and the closing panel that sort of reaches out to the side quarter panel.  There is a gap between that piece and the quarter panel, meaning water could sort of splash forward from the wheel and penetrate the rear bin area.  I am just holding the outer sill plate up, so you can see there is still a gap.  That is right?  If so... no wonder these things rust out!  I might have to figure out a way to close that up.

That looks great!

I'm pretty certain that gets closed up in some manner.  Dan will know and probably chime in later.

I'm not sure, but I think the outer sill covers that area......

Some pics of the tow bar brackets brackets with the subframe in the car would be great if you have them....if not, no worries.

You have to weld that gap closed.  Sometimes the gap is that big, other times it's not.  Depends on how your cill fits.

I don't have any pictures of the brackets on subframe in the car (other than the picture of the car in the first post), but here are a couple close ups. As Jedduh said, it's a plate with two holes corresponding to the tow bar bracket holes with a brace plate in the shape of a triangle welded to the frame and the back of the plate. So the second image is a side shot, you are seeing the edges of the two plates with the bolt going through it and the brace triangle that keeps it vertical.
Oh... it's probably also worth pointing out that the frame is one of the really old Minitec frames. The PO sat on it for a while before selling. I think the newer frames may have a slightly different bottom front beam (for lack of better word).

Ok, thanks Dan. That gap made no sense to me, but had to be there in my case because the curves of that panel to the body and such.

I'm a little surprised that one triangle section is enough to brace that bracket, but if it works, it works!   4.gif

I think Don's MiniTec frame is a pretty early version too, he bought the car in 2008.

Well, I'll have nothing to share for my next two Saturdays because work is sending me to Spain.  The only good news is... my seat on the plane will be much more comfortable than the Captain's chair when flying for company.  Right Dan?

As many hours as you guys spend driving the flying bus, I'd think they'd give you Recaros to sit in!

I sent my buddy Don the pics of your frame and brackets - I've been trying to get him to do this for years now, as he complains about the noise on long drives and it keeps him from doing some of these across the country events. Even on short drives (2 hour) he wear ear plugs. He's been talking about putting a taller diff ratio in too, to drop the revs on the highway.

He has a 2006 Cooper S JCW he can use as a tow car, his wife has a Countryman All4 S that he could use too.

Bruce K and I towed his 88 Mini to Sandy Eggo this summer with his '02 Cooper S and it was easy-peasy.

I've heard each seat cost 80k.  They're pretty nice seats!

Payoff in about 10 trips... that's a good investment, i'd say.
If I had my choice, I'd certainly be fine sitting coach and pocket the difference.

Minidave, I hope it'll help your buddy enjoy more trips. Let me know if I can do anything else.

Thanks, I think I've got him spun up again on going to Texas.

Painful... it's painful to watch calendar pages turn one by one and the mini just sit there with nothing getting done! 
Hopefully, I can put the last 3 months behind me and get back to the little neglected project.  So...
Question, followed by a couple pictures.  The little piece that the classic mini jack fits into on the outer sill, how does that mount??  And... shouldn't I just cover up that hole to prevent water from coming into the sill?  I never use the original mini jack.

Two more panels added back... that one that closes the bottom of the bin (sort of)... and the side/bottom panel (tacked now, need to finish out).  I think I mounted and took off the door 15 times to make sure gaps were good (read 'decent').
 

If you aren't intending to use the stock jacking points, you could bypass the piece you're talking about. Otherwise it just welds to the inner cill.

pro tip = yes = ditch the jacking 'supports' inside the Cil... weld the sill closed. Be done.
   

I don't install them either.

Nuff said, I'll ditch the supports.
Do I put a bunch of paint in that sill area before I close it up forever?  If so, any recommendations that come from a rattle can?

Ideally you sealer primer it.  But yes you'll want something to keep rust from forming.

If you don't put the jacks in, don't you have to weld over the holes?

I'd say it's optional. You have to figure the cill is vented to begin with. So long as it's properly sealed/painted, not much to worry about.

How is the sill vented? I was thinking I would completely seal it up with welds on the front and back, a seam sealer running the length of the bottom, and something (don't know what this is yet) on the pinch welds on the lip beneath the door.

No, there are "bumps" at the bottom of the sill, those are there to ventilate the moisture out so they won't trap water in there and rust. My E-Type has a similar arrangement.....

That's why you prime, seal and paint the inside before you weld on the outer skin. I went the extra mile and WaxOiled the insides of the sills on my E-Type. The bumps here are open on the bottoms.....

(http://www.mini-doctor.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Mini-sills-slider.jpg)

Unless you bought an overcill that's 9 inches wide, the ribs (I guess you'd call them that) vent.  This is to allow water and moisture to escape from within that boxed off section.  This is why overcills are bad. They trap water and your floors, cill, and inner cill begin to rot.

Dave posted at the same time as me, and yes what he said.  I'll add that since I don't carry waxoil, I'll take a rag and smear grease inside before I weld it up.

Huh... funny, I actually had some of the sills like MiniDave posted and didn't really understand how they 'worked' (I thought they were only part of the sill), so I went ahead and bought the 9 inchers.  So, knowing this now, wouldn't my best bet be to completely seal it up?
Thanks

Don't put on the 9 incher.  If you use it, cut it length ways to expose the vents.  I ended up with a pair and just cut it so it was back to stock.  You need it to vent. 

My bad, I think I read it too quickly.  So there is a difference between cill and overcill.  So to make sure I understand, I should use the cill like in the picture (not the 9 inch ones - because they are the ones that trap and hold water), but before I use it, I should have the area it covers primed and painted.  Then, grease up the inside of the cill and weld it on.  Good thing I have both types of cills then... and a shame I didn't know this before I ordered the overcills (probably a year ago).     

Overcills are just to hide rotten cills basically.  But can be cut to work.  So yeah, seal/paint, and grease if you want to take it a step further. 

Saturday night, I welded a bit more, final welded in that side panel from a previous post (forgot to take a picture), and a couple repair places.  So... the front left side is now done, so on to the right side front.  It'll get about the same, new flitch panel, floor pans the full length, repair rear subframe mount, inner and outer cill and whatever else is needed.  Couple pictures of the areas I needed to work on and a few of where the repair was done.  No finishing work is done yet.  Just some welding and some grinding.

So, I am getting ready to move to the rear to knock out the last 1/4 of floor pan.  The difference this time is the quarter panel on this side is still good, so I would like to leave it in place and bust the spot welds between the bin and the quarter panel to slip the floor pan out of that sandwich.  Is this possible??  Any tips?  I plan to drill out the spot welds for the bottom of the bin to the pan, and the spots for the bottom door seal to the pan (in the door opening).  Will it actually slip out??

Picture updates... 'Before' (in the previous post), 'during' and 'after' getting in the flitch panel and the front floor pan half (no grinding done yet).  Last two shots are 'befores' for the rear floor pan half, and the rear subframe mount areas.

A little more progress...
So yes, I cut out the spot welds and it is possible to slip the rusted up last bit of floor pan out from between the door sill and the rear bin.  While out, I went ahead and put in the new subframe repair panel as well as the closing piece (using the subframe to position- Thanks Dan!).  I started to cut the shape for the last floor pan section and had to stop there because time expired.  No grinding done yet.

 

Here we go...
Got the rest of the floor put in... now the floor is done!!  Honestly, when I started this project, I really felt like it would be over my head.  After finishing the floor, it was like getting a fresh breath of air.
Then I started in the boot area... and started feeling overwhelmed again!
I got most of the right side (upside down) re-worked with some new pieces in.  The subframe bolts drop right in, so it is perfectly aligned still.  I've still got to address the wheel well area - waiting on a couple more parts.

Questions...
1.  The 'rear valence and subframe mount closing panel', how does this thing get sealed up??  Spot weld through the rear lower valence and spot weld to the boot floor' and then seam seal the mess out of it all?  It just seems like there are a lot of gaps.
2.  Does anyone know where I can get a replacement spare tire cavity panel?  Mine has a ton of pin holes in it, I fear I won't have enough thickness to actually put patches in.
3.  Has anyone used 3M's Cavity Wax Plus?  I'm thinking about using it in the rocker areas, and this rear closing panel area.

Pictures attached. 
I couldn't believe the shock mount area.  That 'patch' was caulked on. 

...and a couple more pictures... (Questions in previous post)

From the look of that it looks like you need the whole boot floor.....

Yeah I'd do a new boot floor.  You can probably get away with cutting it off where it wraps under to make the rear seat.  It's what we did on Vikrams too. 

Edit.  Looks like you have begun patching her up where the closing panels are. 

What?  Throw the baby out with the bath water?  There is at least a 3x3" section that is rock solid in that boot floor! 
In hindsight, you guys are right, I would have bought the boot floor - I didn't realize some repair pieces were not quite big enough and how many pin holes were in the wheel cavity.  However, I already bought the boot side repair pieces, battery box, and the 10" boot floor segment. 
I looked at it again last night with a light in the boot and it is not as bad as I was thinking.  Most of the pin holes are in one flat area, and the few in the curves I think I have enough replacement metal.  So, if no-one has one, I think I can make it work with what I have.
Thanks for the responses. 
And yeah, I sort of already started the repairs and fabricating pieces, so I am committed.

Makes for better welding skills!

A little more progress made... slowly but... slowly.
I can't get over how poorly done previous patches were.  In the second image, you can see where someone has just put a patch over rusted metal and it also started to rust out.  I cut all that out and fab'ed up a new piece (didn't have this section).  I am going back and cutting out most everything that was done.  I am convinced patches were done by two different people.  There are a select few patches that were done really well - these, I won't need to re-do.
Next up is the spare tire area, and the battery box.   

Spare tire area and a couple smaller repairs.  Battery box is back in too, but I forgot to take a picture.  Do you guys weld up, or close off somehow the three big holes in the bottom of the battery box?? 
Only a couple small areas left in the boot area. 

I plan to replace the wheel 'arches' (mini spares term), and ordered both of them.  One came, but the other one is backordered.  Been waiting a couple weeks on it now and it is getting near the point where I really need it.

Those 3 holes get rubber plugs.

Thanks Dan.  One more thing to order (well three more).
Also, for anyone doing similar work, I almost made a rookie mistake I thought I'd share. 
In the boot near the rear subframe back bolts -- The 'floor to wheel arch bracket' should be fitted BEFORE welding in boot side repair panels or replacement boot floor.  Because - the bracket welds to the underside of the floor and goes up through the gap and into the boot.  The bracket will not slip in if the wheel arch and repair pieces are already sound.  (See picture where my finger is pointing)  Sadly, I already welded in my boot side repair panels and now cannot fit in the bracket...
Thankfully though, I am replacing the wheel arches and while those are out, I can slip in that bracket.

Also, I am including a picture of a previously done 'repair' where someone welded a piece of metal over a rusted out section in the wheel arch.  Don't do this.  Send your car to Dan instead.  I already cut it out, and both pieces were now rusted and many through holes. 

Yep, the artful bodger is alive and well!

I need some help here...
It's nearing time to put on the outer sills and also the rear valence.  Both areas will be boxed in forever.  When discussing this topic months ago, I heard epoxy primer prior to closing it in.  I have two guns borrowed from a friend (see picture).  Will either of these work to spray epoxy primer?  I know zero about painting, I just want to get something in there to protect it.
Also, I have welded in that area (lots) and where the factory panel paint lifted, I spayed a cheap primer (zinc rust preventer) just to cover the metal until I could get back to it, do I need to figure out how to get back to bare metal prior to spraying?
Also, any recommendation on epoxy primer brand?
Thanks!

Dan? Jeff?

the purple gun will spray primer, the other gun is a schultz type gun for bed liner, rocker panel chip guard, or under coat. just about any epoxy primer should be fine for inside panels, don't worry about whatever you already sprayed on scuff it the best you can and shoot it.

Jeff

Purple gun is a harbor freight special, will work good.  You could slather it on with a paint brush for that matter.  You just want it on the inside to keep moisture off.

Thanks for the answers fellas!
I have a quart of SPI's epoxy primer (and activator) on it's way.  I plan to scuff up what I can reach, then spray it with the purple gun.

I got a good bit of repairing done this weekend.  Some before and after pictures of the wheel well areas on both side of the car. 
The wheel well areas had a good number of terrible patches in them, so it feels good to have them done right.  I ended up replacing both, as well as repairs to the inner fenders, and the rear quarters.  Lots of welding, lots of grinding.   

The next step is to mount the rear valence and the outer sills, but before I do that, I need to get the epoxy primer in the void areas.

Nice job on the wheel wells  77.gif

Dang the last time I saw this, there was a hole in the floor you could see the road through.  Looking really good man keep on trucking!

Cole

Thanks fellas.  I appreciated the good words and all the help!
Great forum Dan.

This weekend some exciting things happened on the mini.  For the first time in over a year, the wind blew and the mini rolled right side up.  It was fantastic!  (Sills and rear valence are not welded on yet). 
So then I became best friends with the grinder.  My mini work hours are almost always when the kids are asleep, but Saturday morning I got in a few hours.  My neighbor comes over ...
Steve : 'Hey Dan (after three years, he still thinks my name is Dan)'. 
Me:  "hey Steve (because I actually know his name)'. 
Steve:  ' I was just telling my wife, you are going to have more invested in grinding wheels than the car is worth'!
Me:  'Are you tired of hearing me grind yet?' 
Steve:  'Naw man, You ain't bothering me, just noticing you've been burning lots of midnight oil... and grinding wheels." 
Ha!  I'm thankful for the big trees in the neighborhood, and thankful we are all spread out a bit.  And no HOA.

Lots of time spent, but not many pictures worth seeing.  Lots of grinding inside and filling in pin holes.  I did manage to fill in the spare wiper holes and washer jets.  Probably the smoothest repairs I have done yet.  Also, the right side, rear window base was rotted out, so I repaired it. The boot lid mount areas were rotted out, and had pseudo repairs on that area, so I repaired the repairs.  Just lots of cleanup with the grinder really.

It's a great feeling when it get's to start looking like a solid car again, isn't it?

I remember grinding down welds on my Jag - I had a self imposed limit of 11 pm, and that was with the thick wooden garage doors closed - fortunately I lived in Sandy Eggo where the temps were moderate in the evenings.

Yeah Dave, it is a great feeling.
My self imposed grinding cut off time is midnight.  The garage door is always up, but thankfully, we have a good bit of distance between houses.

I have another question... I have to re-skin a door and a boot lid.  What is the best way to get the old skin off?  I was wondering if the answer was to carefully grind around the edge of the door??  Are they crimped on?  Or crimped and spot welded?

Good question.  I grind the lip till the skin folds back easily.  The corners by the window frame I cut off below the welds a bit, then go back and cut/grind it clean.  You will also need to chisel a few spot welds on the skin/frame.  When you reskin put a good adhesive on the bottom of the frame to keep it water tight. 

Might be the same as what Dan is saying but, I grind through the edge until the skin falls off leaving the inside folded over part that has spot welds. I then grab that with pliers and roll it back to each spot weld then chisel, pull, bend, break, grind them off one at a time. Panel bond adhesive can be used for a weldless install of the new skin or some welds and adhesive.

Perfect.  Thanks fellas, that makes a lot of sense.  Any recommendations on 'adhesive'?  I had just planned to put seam sealer after I got it spot welded back together, but open for ideas.

So, I got a little more done over the weekend.  More general cleanup with the grinder, chipped out the rest of the sound deadening (terrible process), welded up a couple more holes on the firewall.  Got one side a-panel back on and the door to aide in alignment.  It's coming together!  The other door is the one that needs skinned.  I'll do that after I get that other side a-panel back on.

It'll be a couple weekends off work on the mini upcoming... little vacation time.

I know you are talking about your mini but can we instead talk about this?

;D

I use 3m 08310 on wing and scuttle seams.  You should apply it or panel bond or even a very strong caulk on the door frame bottom 3rd or so just prior to fitting the skin.  Also a gun is required for this 3m stuff but since the guns are expensive and you really will use very little per car, I just apply pressure on the ends of the tube with the handle end of a hammer. Mix it up, wear gloves, smear it where needed.  Tape up a clean line along the seams then pull the tape after it dries.  That will save you a couple hours of cleanup if you just slather it willy nilly.

I agree, don't slather your willy!



;D

Thanks Dan.  I'll get some of that.  Just curious... why is it exactly that I am doing that?  Why is it any different than just seam sealer everywhere else I'll put it where I have overlaps - like floor pan to flitch panel, etc (In your previous post you said 'to keep it watertight').  You mind elaborating? 

Cole, Meet the 'super gaucho'.  I like cars... I like for my kids to have cars too.  That is ride on car #4 (only 3 kids, only 2 of which can drive).  Haven't paid a dime for any of them...  Well... I did have to do some fixin on each of them.  It's a little ridiculous actually. 

This stuff is stronger and won't crack along exterior body seams.  Floors and whatnot don't need anything too special.

After a trip to S Korea, some tree work (thanks Irma), and a rebuild of my real daily driver brake system, I am back on the project (hopefully for a few straight weekends again).  I got the other side a-panel lined up and welded on, but have a question.  I plan to make this car a removable front end (using all metal).  I've got a plan, but I need to understand where the top of the fenders line up relative to the doors.  Do the top of the fenders line up with that crease going across the top of the door?  (the one maybe an inch or so below the window opening) See the first picture where I have it lined up.  Pay no attention to the door, that'll get re-skinned.  Or is the fender edge supposed to be higher?  Like maybe at the top of that hole in the gusset closing panel?  Any tips for lining these up? 

And... the last picture gave me a good chuckle.  Never seen this one before...

What you have appears correct. Here's one of mine.

Perfect, thanks Dan.  I just hope I can get the gap that tight again.

I've done a flip front on the 66 I'm building for a guy.  I got the gaps that tight, however I extended one side a little to get it perfect.  It was a good bit of work. 

Just found this video @bahowe1 of your mini doing some horsing around back when it was just holes to the street below it!  4.gif

https://youtu.be/4rY9zidyLB4

SomethingNew... thanks for the reminder of the video.  I can't wait to drive this thing again!
So... updates... lots done in the past two weekends.
I messed around with the front end for a while and have a plan on how to make it removable, but I have some more work to go on it.  I figure, I needed the subframe on to help me make sure it is positioned properly, so I quit messing with it and moved on to rolling over the mini (again).  So, It's back on it's top.  I prep'd the areas for paint (well - epoxy sealer) where I put the outer sills and rear valence.  Got those areas epoxied, and welded on the parts.  Then, I prep'd and epoxied the whole bottom and seam sealed. Thought I was done with epoxy for a while, but decided I needed to do the firewall area too, so I prep'd and shot it and still need to seam seal.  Next up... position the subframe to drill some new floor holes and then flip it back upright and decide if I need to do anything else before I build it up (sorta). 
The plan is to build it back up and drive it (before Christmas!!).  Make sure I have everything like I like it (and maybe add AC!), tear it back down and send it for real paint.
Questions:
I cut off the door skin that was previously repaired (Terribly - see the way they did the patch?  put a half welded on backplate).  Dan, you mentioned using 08310 on the bottom 3rd of the door before fitting the skin.  But then you said to tape it up.  Where am I taping?  Or was that only a step for scuttle seams and such?

Also, does anyone have a picture of name of a tool they use to grind in really tight areas?  I have a dremel, not sure if this is the right tool, and if so, which bit?  It's a weld in between two seams on the rear quarter, a very tight area.   

I use a die grinder with a burr bit in it..... you can also buy small stones instead of the burr. It's like a dremel but much more powerful - Harbor Freight has all sorts of them including right angle and extended nose styles, none are very expensive.

Mini Dave, burrs are the jam! Thanks. Wish I knew about these sooner. Controlling them is tricky though.

Dan, I got my 3m panel bond in for the door skins, what exactly am I to do with it?  Apply it before I put on the skin, then bend the skin around and use normal seam sealer on outside edge?  Any tips on tools for the bending?

Update... the wind blew the mini over again. Got on the rear subframe... then on to the front... front subframe and engine assembly in!!!... and some wiring in. Getting super excited now!! She's rolling and steering... hopefully soon to be vrooming... completely rust free with no holes!!
I'll still need to loom up the wiring once I figure it all out again.

Yeah so apply the bond so when you press the skin it forms a water tight seal against the frame.  Water tight = non rusty door bottoms 2 years from now.  Clamp in a few areas and use a hammer to hit the lip till it's bent over a good bit.  Then if you are without any fancy tools, take a large pair of vice grips, a thick piece of metal plate, and pinch the lip the rest of the way. Place the metal plate on the skin as you do this so you don't dent up your skin.

Wow, you are really making progress!

Glad those worked out for you.....what color are you going to paint it?

Inspired!!   I'm curious as to how you kept your shell square after removing so many panels.  I didn't see any temp bars welding in place to hold the shell square.  I'm I found this post.. 

Dan, thanks! I'll do exactly that.

Lone star, it's  a mini, I'm not sure if it's ever been square. Ha! Kidding. I only took out a panel at a time. The only temp bracing I welded in was when I took out the front half of one side (so basically a quarter) of the floor between door opening. That kept it from spreading apart... basically it held the door width. It would have been much easier to cut it all out at once, but I couldn't do that.

Mini Dave, I'm not completely sure yet, but I used to have an 'original' mini and it was 'harvest gold', but a repaint. The family really liked that color-ish and have been pushing for the yellow family again. We really like the bracken that was posted on here a few months ago and may go in that direction. They definitely want a brighter color to help others see it.

Funny, I was at a red light today and next to me was a new MINI in bright orange and I thought to myself how much I really liked that color and how good it would look on a classic Mini.

I agree with a really bright color, our cars are hard enough to see - anything to make it stand out so they don't run over us in their SUV's!

Hey fellas!  So it's been a couple weekends of trips and no mini work... but... in the first picture the car is actually running!!  After getting oil pressure, it cranked and ran smooth on the second try!  I rebuilt it almost two years ago and was advised to never turn it over until I am ready to run it, but instead wipe down cylinder walls and such with oil during the rebuild and just leave it.  Worked out great!!
Then I got the clutch and brakes bled back out and immediately took the family for a ride in the neighborhood!  Obviously, taking it very easy.  No windows, doors, etc and about 50 degrees out.  Eyes start watering in a hurry.  I think the first thing the neighbors saw was my teeth!
Since then, I started working the front end sheet metal.  The goal is to make it a removable front end by only taking out a few bolts (probably 4-6), the side seem strip, and the flares.  The hood will still function and that is the main access.  I want it removable in the case of doing engine work or tranny work in the future (hopefully, very very distant future). 
I've taken several test drives and I had forgotten how fun, and nimble it is.  It revs up and back down so quick.  I haven't gotten a chance to test out the LSD I put in it, because I plan to take it easy for the first 500 miles.
So... current status... finish the front end work, cut and flare a bit more for the fenders.  Get 500 miles on it while making all the other modifications (AC - hopefully, battery box mods, 3rd brake light, etc)
Then take it all back apart.

How exciting to get it running and driving again!

Whose coilovers did you go with?

Do you have any pics of your engine steadies? I have to fix the ones on my buddies Pup and I'm looking for ideas....

Dave,
I snagged some pictures of the engine mounts... there are a total of 4.  I was only able to get decent pictures of the three, the two sides and the one in the front lower.  let me know if you need a shot of the 4th, and I can try a little harder (it's tight in that area).  I recently moved the 4th one to get more clearance for the shifter (I think it was an earlier design and not the best).  It was not welded to the frame, instead, it was like a bolted clamp that mounted to the subframe, then used a rubber bushing with a bolt through the tranny bell housing.  The right and left ones just use stock stuff, the lower front one is custom.  These are all the standard ones from minitec - it's a minitec frame (an old one though).

For the coilovers - I believe they are QA1.  They came with the frame - which was with the car, when I got it.  I think I once identified them and this is what I am recalling. 

Mowie wowwie! Looking good!

Keep up the hard work!

Yep, Don's Pup has the same rear steady and the clamp worked it's way loose, there is no way to tighten it again without removing the subframe.

I also don't like the single bolt front one and I'm going to engineer something better. We took those red mounts out and went back to stock Honda mounts, cut the vibes by half right there.

Thanks for the pics!

Dave,
Does that Pup have AC?  I think this is going to be a big challenge for me.  I just purchased Sanden's smallest compressor and we will see where it can fit when it arrives this weekend. I'm looking for some information on which condenser people are using, and then the system in the cabin.  As we all know, space is tight!!  I am thinking I will have to mount the condenser in the back because once I put in my headlights and turn signal, there is basically no more room in front of the radiator.

On a fun-er note... I took 'er out on the real roads this weekend (out of the neighborhood).  Ended up seeing what felt like every cop in town (who I usually never see).  No doors, only a front windshield for glass, no hood, no boot lid (and no tag).  Not a single cop even flashed brake lights.  20 miles (of 500) down.  I did have the tag laying under the back seat.  Several folks asked me if it was legal... I have no idea.  Around here you can actually display a wrong tag on a classic car as long as you have the right one for it.  I figure as long as I had it, I could hopefully explain problems away.  Although it isn't safe at all, it was VERY fun driving it like that.   

It does have A/C, and it even works......occasionally.

I think his compressor is off a Suzuki Samurai...it's tiny, although you don't need a lot for such a small car. His condenser is mounted in the rear, under the bed - I think it's a very poor design as it's mounted flat - and even tho it has a fan blowing downward, it doesn't seem to me like a whole lot of air gets moved across it, plus it gets all that heat from the pavement blasting up on it, I also wonder if on the highway the movement of the air under the vehicle stalls the air blowing thru the core, cause above about 50 mph it really stops making cool. About the only time it's effective is in town driving, the other problem is that it makes the engine run really hot - why or how I have not figured out, since the heat is all back under the bed, not being loaded onto the cooing system. Just my thoughts and observations so far......

We had a local guy who built his own Vtec frame and so on and he was able to get a condenser in front of the radiator - don't know how he did it and he sold the car so I can't go look, but I will ask him about it when I see him next. His was originally an MPi car, but he had to use the radiator on the side just like others.

Don's compressor is mounted on the front, down low and required the grill to be modified - it stands out at the bottom a little on buttons, the alternator is around the back side of the engine, also down low. Some guys mount he alternator in the fender, turned around and put the compressor where the alt was, that gives more room in front and doesn't require the grill to be modified.

Thanks Dave. It sounds like the current setup is the same. Thanks for the info about the rear condenser. Thanks, I'll let you know as I proceed how I go about it.
Something I found that you might want to check- there is a bolt that mounts the rear half of the upper arm that was touching the body of the alt (on mine). I ended up shaving half the head of the bolt down and it drastically reduced vibration.

Dave, could you send a couple pictures of the grill modification that was done? 
Last night I received the compressor in the mail and took a look at fitting it up.  It's going to be really tight.  I think I know the position it has to be in, but I MAY have to make a little room in the back side of the grill (or use similar to what he has).  I will say... the compressor is tiny... but so is the spot.  I think my bracket will start from the two lower bolt holes near the oil pan (one has a screw sticking out of it).  But then the middle of the body of the compressor would be about where those 4 upper bolt holes are.  Maybe I will get to play with it this weekend.
Also, I am looking at the Hurricane inside unit made by Old Air.  Their inside unit is pricey... but, the dimensions are the best for what I need.  I would like to try and fit it all in the area where the old heater goes.  Most units are sort of spread out under the dash, but I would prefer a 'box' type design due to where I want my fuse blocks and relays.  This 'box' is 11.5 width, 8.5" depth, and 11" height.  It should go where I want it, but was wondering if anyone had personal experience with these units?  My goal is AC/heat/defrost.     

Tidy!

I'm sure you've handled it more but it looks liek the compressor will go  outward towards the pulleys more than the block mount points that are there. Hopefully giving clearance behind with the manifold and tucked in close enough for the nose...   but then the hoses are on the bottom . Ugh!@ goodluck
   

Ben what steps did you follow to paint the block? Was it raw metal when you painted it? I had the machine shop acid wash my motor last time I did work then repainted and its already starting to flake again. 

:-(

Yep, that's where Don's mounts - it may be a couple of days before I can get you pics of the grill mounting, Don's unavailable right now....

I'll see if any pics I have show the area, but instead of mounting direct to the body, there are some little clips that stand it out - just at the bottom. They just used some little Z clips made out of sheet metal - I made him some better ones but same idea.


Don's hoses go out the top of the compressor, and I had to make a steady bracket because the engine movement between the body and the car caused the hoses to vibrate loose at the compressor. Once that was done it quit leaking all the Freon out.....

Where did you get that header? I made one for Don's car by taking a cheap $50 Ebay SS header and modifying it - I had to take 5/8" out of the length where the pipes meet the flange and weld it all back again. Works a treat now tho but it was a bugger to put on in the car!

I did find a couple of pics that show how they did his.....

Cole, yeah, it was raw metal. I forgot the name of the paint, but honestly, I hated it. While it is now adhered really well, it stayed gummy for weeks. It probably needed a really long cure time and thankfully it got it while the engine sat for a year. I brushed it on. If I'm not mistaken, it was POR15, but it acted very different than the black stuff. I will check when I get home... currently in flight to D.C. 

Jedduh, in the picture, I was just holding the compressor flat, but it is actually sort of upside down. The ports will be on top. Yeah, the bracket will have to extend out to the right past the mount holes. Thankfully, it is plenty short to where the manifold will give me no problem, the problem lies in lining up the pulleys, forces it into a position where it hits in the grill area of the front clip. I've got a bit of work to do.

Mini Dave, thanks for the pictures, all of them. When I was looking last night, I am thinking I will end up running the condenser in the back as well. His grill is the older style, so I guess I'll have to do some figuring to see what mine will look like. I am actually considering shaving a couple manufacturing dimples off the compressor to give me just enough room. We will see. 

Sorry, I missed a couple questions. Dave, I'm not sure about the header, it came with the car. I did high temp paint it though because it was ugly.

Cole, now that I think some more, I think when stuff comes back from acid, you still need to clean them really well. I think I used por15 degreaser and then windex to clean off residue from the wash. I do know reading reviews led me to brushing instead of spraying.

That's almost definitely where I messed up.  SIGH

Started working a bit on hanging the compressor (little by little).  I think I know the approximate location, so I started making the lower bracket.  Started with square stock and washers and then adding some risers.  It's sort of tough when you only have two hands...  It's just tacked now (except for the risers which will eventually weld to the lower piece).

Are you going to adjust belt tension by moving the compressor or by using an idler?

I plan to use an idler pulley.. like the one used on the alt.  If I move the compressor, it'll start to touch things (probably already does now - that I'll have to remedy).  Actually, I plan to mount the pulley on the end of the lower bracket.  I am having a bit of trouble sourcing what I want though.  I'd prefer the exact same kind used on the alt, it's a flat (not ribbed) with flanges on the sides.  Only a couple inches or so in diameter.  Anybody know where to source??

Did you try Honda?

Like this one?

https://www.autozone.com/external-engine/belt-tensioner/duralast-belt-tensioner/634080_913095_0 (https://www.autozone.com/external-engine/belt-tensioner/duralast-belt-tensioner/634080_913095_0)

Thanks Dave, no, I didn't try Honda because it is just some generic pulley I am trying to match.  The closest I have come is some of Dayco's pulleys - but the one I am trying to match is like a type of plastic pulley (they call it 'glass filled polymer'), flat (like the one you found), but it has flanges on the side to make sure the belt doesn't run off.  This weekend I will have to see if I can find any writing on the one in there now. 

Quote from: Bahowe1 on December 13, 2017, 05:49:08 AM
Started using Gold Standard whey protein (https://www.muscleandfitness.com/supplements/gold-standard-100-whey-protein-review-should-you-buy/) and working a bit on hanging the compressor (little by little).  I think I know the approximate location, so I started making the lower bracket.  Started with square stock and washers and then adding some risers.  It's sort of tough when you only have two hands...  It's just tacked now (except for the risers which will eventually weld to the lower piece).

You're doing a great job if you can do this all by yourself, Bahowe. I know exactly what you mean when you say this part is tough when you only have two hands. Looking forward to the next update.

The flanges are unimportant, if the belt is running true and square the driving ribs will keep it on the drive pulleys and aligned, the idler doesn't need flanges. I know the pulley you're talking about tho, check with MiniTec, that's what they use - they can tell you where to get it or even sell you one.

bj@superfastminis.com or 706-246-0072

Thanks murton, I'll take a compliment any day.

Dave, I've been thinking about your Buddys pickup and the condenser. Is that mounted truely flat??  If so, I can't imagine it to be very efficient (or work at all). I would expect it to have some drop so the condensed cooler fluid is at the bottom for the compressor to take suction from. Right?

You don't want your compressor pulling liquid! The compressor pulls hot gas from the evaporator and pushes it to the condenser, then from there the liquid goes thru the receiver dryer and into the evaporator, controlled by the expansion valve.

It seems to me to be completely flat, with a couple of small fans mounted on top and blowing downward, that's why I think it doesn't work on the highway, I think the air flow over the fins stalls.

Seeing how it is tucked into the center area of the rear subframe right next to the large muffler, it appears to me to be in a heat trap.  On the highway, the muffler will generate significant heat in that pocket and that will result in the fans drawing hot air to try to push through the condenser.  Pushing hot air through the fins will not produce the required heat transfer to cool the gas again.

Thanks Dave, slight goof there, a compressor, not pump. Still, like mplayle said.  It makes me think about what I'll do.
Compressor is on now. I did have to clearance the front lip some, but I have a good gap now. Now, on to fitting the inside unit. Gotta buy one first.

You could cut that strap out completely for more room, I doubt it's structural enough to worry about.....in fact Don's has some of the lower valance right at that brace cut away for clearance for the compressor.

Dave, I use those grill buttons to secure the grill, so that was my drive in keeping that strap.  It's got enough room now, so I think I am all set there.

Time to take a break from all the work and have some fun.  We live relatively close to 'Christmas Town USA' so last night we took a trip over to see the lights.  If you've never heard of it, back in the day the local mill would give a power discount to those who decorated their house with Christmas lights.  The town became a local attraction at Christmas time.  Since then though, the town has changed a lot, and they've actually built a bunch of 'fancy homes' in there.  Basically everyone who lives in the town decorates now and people come from all over to see the lights.  We got a ton of comments and laughter, my favorite of which being, 'It's a classic mini cooper... BEAUUUUTIFUL!'  (obviously, it was VERY dark)

I need a bit of help here... I just started thinking about that compressor from the Suzuki swift is what Minitec uses and I built a bracket for. However, that is a sanden 7b10 compressor with a clockwise rotation. These d series are ccw, right? How in the world does this work unless I were to flip the compressor backward (minitec doesn't)? What am I not thinking about?

Are you sure CCW? viewed from the crankshaft end? maybe it's CCW from the flywheel end?

I just got home and cranked mine. When looking face on at the crank pulley, it is turning ccw. .. which means the compresser will also be turning ccw, but it's a clockwise compresser. So, what am I missing? Why does Minitec's work??

Check with Sanden, maybe it doesn't care?  Like a 2 stroke motor will run either direction......

Supposedly (online responses), the 508 compresser runs either direction, but the 7b10 is cw. Tomorrow I plan to call them and see for sure. I don't understand. I feel like I must be thinking about something wrong.

There is no such thing as calling Sanden.  They really want to respond to an email - 2 days later.  So, I eventually found a phone number as well and left a message.  In the meantime, I called Minitec and got on the phone with their AC guy.  He said it can turn either direction, it is the same compressor they have been using for 10 years and never had a problem. 
Hmmm... what should I do?  Minitec really doesn't do many AC's.  Sanden info says only their 508 series compressor turns either direction.  So it makes me wonder... it works, but does it work well??

My brother worked for Sanden for a number of years in their refrigeration dept, let me send him a note, he lives in England so it may be tomorrow before I hear from him.

Edit : note sent to my brother, I should hear from him tomorrow morning. He still knows plenty of people at Sanden, so if he doesn't know I'm sure he can find out.

OK, here's the skinny.....the 5 series (5 piston) can run either direction, the 7 series (7 piston wobble plate style) are designed to only run one direction (CW) according to the applications engineer at Sanden.

Dave, thank you very much!! So isn't that crazy. All those minitec kits are spinning the compressor backwards! I guess I will re-start the whole compressor thing then. I hope I can return mine and the 5 series aren't too big.

Wonder if that has something to do with the poor efficiency at higher speeds?

So I decided to do it right, if I'm going to try to put in AC.  I sent the Suzuki Swift compressor back because it really is not supposed to turn CCW (a big thank you to Dave!!).
I went to Pull a part and snagged a compressor off a 99Civic, and the condenser and fan.  Honestly, I was planning to just use the compressor as a 'fitup' component, but when I cracked open the system, it was clearly still charged and seemed in really good shape.  So, I will try it out for more than just a fit up component.
This weekend I got the brackets re-made to fit it all up and even though I had to restart it all, I really like the mounting on this new one better.  But... the compressor is certainly larger, so I had to do some more body clearance -ing.  Thankfully, we have grills, so it'll all look good.
The one piece hanging down there, I cut out the old strap and welded in a thicker piece of metal, this eventually will be drilled and hold the 'grill button' to mount the grill. 
I also got in a 'mock up' Vintage Air, inside unit - neat concept where they sell you a case and then once you are done using it for fit up, you send it back and they refund you.  Nice!  Anyways, that will also take some creative placement, but we are moving at least.

The next steps are to figure out how to finish fit the mock up unit (which means moving all my ECU and fuse boxes), fab up something to put tension on the compressor belt, and then do some research on potentially a different radiator, so hopefully I can fit both radiator, and condenser in the area where the radiator now sits.

Modern A/C systems are truly amazing, it used to be common that you had to go have your A/C recharged every year, our Audi is 14 and never been cracked, the MINI is 9 and the same....pretty wonderful stuff!

wow, the work looks great on the rebuild

Thanks Joakwin - I've been watching your build too.  It's amazing how quickly you are moving along.  You are doing a great job.

So this weekend I became sick of making 'custom' brackets.  I made a custom bracket to fit an idler in to tension the AC belt, and thankfully, autozone had a belt that was near the perfect length, so I didn't need to have a lot of movement in the tensioner.  The tensioner works by just pulling it tight and tightening the nut.  Works well.  The compressor I bought at pull a part had a stuck bolt in it that I can't get out, so maybe this week I will swap with another.  The condenser doesn't fit because the fittings on it, but it is the right size.  So, hopefully Ebay can help me out.
In the meantime, I worked on the inside trying to fit the Vintage air inside unit.  Years ago when I mounted all the electrical components, I put them the only place I thought they fit.  Well... none of them were in the right spot for where the vintage air unit needs to be.  So, I took them all out, moved them toward the middle of the dash and that Vintage air unit now (with some work) fits great!  So, I remounted all my electrical stuff and my dash will need to be completely reworked. I actually like it much better now, the fuses will be hidden, but will be super easy to access now. 
The weather hit mid 60's yesterday... have to take advantage of that!  So, I did some driving (about 60 miles) and then decided to make a custom bracket for a 3rd brake light.  No doors, no hood, no boot lid (no plate), and only a front windshield for glass... but I need a 3rd brake light.  Because that is safe!! 

I should explain pictures...
First one, after unbolting fuse blocks and relays which were mounted under dash on the far left side
2 Realizing the Vintage Air unit, although small, is huge
3 Finding the right spot for the vintage air unit, (tucks awesome!) now have to move ECU, fuse blocks, relays, everything
4 Nice picture of unit, with everything mounted except fuse blocks, relays
5  Fuse blocks and relays mounted-ish
Next post will have the idler, and 3rd brake light
 

I guess I should also apologize for the dark and light difficult to see pictures.  Pretty much all my work on the car is done at night... while everyone else sleeps...

Got a lot done this weekend.  I got the condenser in the mail... smallest one I could find to try to get to fit.  It's a 12x14, which should be sufficient to cool this puppy.  However, the headlight buckets will not fit in the hole anymore with the condenser behind it.  The condenser is only like 5/8ths thick.  Oh well.  Guess I will have look at different headlight options... like the Truck Lites.  I really hate that. *sarcasm*
I bought one, just to see what it does, man, the light quality is phenomenal!  And it is shallow enough that I can fit the condenser.  I did a lot of headlight research (including on this forum) and I do believe these lights are where it's at.  I'm a fan.  Now, I just need to sell my second born to get the left side one.
Funny story... when I bought my first one, I told the guy at the counter I would be trading him my first born for it.  She wasn't paying any attention (so I thought)... and then she asked me if I would really do that.  Ha!  Oops.
Also, the turn signals would no longer fit because the housing is so deep, it fouled on the condenser.  So, I bought some LED trailer markers and modified them to get them down to a size to fit in the turn signals.  Nice!  No more bulbs to change and the light signal is also very nice.
I also de-skinned a boot lid... only to find the frame is also junk.  And, re-skinned a door.  Still need to put a bit of weld at the top edges, but it's almost done.
My buddy Jedduh rolled over to the house Saturday night and lent a hand.  So much fun working on a car with a buddy!  He worked on the seat bracket, got it a little lower and better position for getting in and out and generally was a fresh set of eyes to key me in to what else I should modify of the things that I have started to just 'deal with'.  All good ideas.  Sharp and very capable dude - who also works on other people's stuff in the local area.  Fun times.  Some pictures below...
 

Well you're coming along and we'll get you squared away on that boot lid.  Any tentative plans when paint goes on?

I'm hoping for paint right after the CMU event in April. You guys are all coming, right?
I don't have time to do all the modifications I still need to do, get it torn down, painted, and rebuilt before the event.   I'd like to be all done (sorta) in the summer. The sorta part is because Im not ready to spend on the interior yet.

I'm planning to be there at the CMU event for sure.

Got a good bit done this weekend.  I got my order in the mail from MiniSpares, so I had been waiting on a fuel tank mount bracket.  I got that welded in, so the tank is now secure.  I am convinced each time a tank comes out of a mini, it never goes back in the exact same spot. 
Also, got new rear cones, and rear shocks and installed them.
Modified the shifter to be close to the driver. 
Finished the mounting bracketry for the AC condenser, and got it all clearanced.
Got both of my new headlights installed.
Got the door that I re-skinned welded up, so all that is left on it is seam sealing.
Got the Vintage Air real inside unit (not the mock up) installed.  Man, that little unit looks factory.  I'll have to get some more pictures of it - pictures came out terrible (dark).
I spent hours figuring out the fittings and hoses I need for the heat and cool portion of the system, so I need to make that order now so hopefully I can wrap up buying components for the AC/heat/defrost portion of this project and concentrate on getting them in and looking right.
Next steps - lots.  Connect up all the components of the AC/heat/defrost with hoses and wires, and mounting control panel and heater shutoff valve. 
Make brackets for radio install, cut speaker holes, make speaker enclosures, antenna positioning.
Install a bigger radiator/condenser fan.   

 

Where will you get your A/C fittings and such, Vintage air or somewhere else?

Yeah Dave, Vintage air seemed to have the best pricing.  I checked with a Pirtek - a chain that makes hoses - as well as a few other online sites and Vintage Air was a clear winner. 

Test bracken on your new boot lid.

Purty.

It's yellow??
Kidding... looks awesome!

Looks different in person and in various light too.

Updates:  I replaced the radiator fan.  Old fan was a 10" no-name, so who knows the flow.  New fan, 10" heavy duty from JEGs - Maradyne that flows 950cfm.  Question:  the sheet said to make sure blades were 1/4" from radiator to allow for flex in accel/decel.  I mounted the shroud directly against the radiator - There is a good 1/4" (maybe slightly more) between blades and radiator now.  But then, in the mounting instructions (that I read after I got it installed) said to use rubber spacers if mounting directly to the radiator, to allow correct spacing.  Those spacers were probably another 1/8th or better.  So am I good, or does anyone think I need a bit more?
Anyways, also had to re-run new wires for the heavier amp draw.
Also worked on the AC/heat/defrost system.  The inside unit is in it's final resting place.  It looks pretty good in there.  Also, got a load of fittings in, so I started clocking those - and had to make another order for some changes.  Got the dryer mounted as well, and made a bracket for the heater valve that'll mount that valve to the firewall.
And found some molded hoses for the heater hoses to get that nice and tidy.
Also got some brackets made to mount the control panel for the unit.
Busy weekend.
Whew... I feel like April CMU event is coming quickly!
Pictures - old fan has the fancy aluminum brackets.  New fan has the homemade brackets but much better fan.

Your fan spacing should be fine.  The "mounted directly to radiator" spacing described in the installation instructions are for using the supplied "zip" straps that go through the radiator fins.  Your brackets hold it out further than if the fan housing was directly against the radiator fins.

@Mplyle - thanks!  But actually my brackets don't hold it out further than those zip straps. The way I built the brackets, it puts the fan shroud directly against the radiator (and the blades about a quarter inch away).
The paperwork with the fan was junk. It said do not use those zip straps, but then told you how to use them and they were supplied.
This is why I question it, rather than just space it out. I'd like the shroud to be on the radiator to force flow to come through the radiator, but also don't want to find out the hard way it needed more spacing.

If you think some additional blade clearance is needed, you could adjust your brackets and then add a strip of foam weather-stripping material around the edge of the fan housing to seal against the radiator.  That would also get you the fan flow forced to be through the radiator as desired.

Some of you may remember I needed a new boot lid.  I had planned to re-skin, but it was too far gone once I got the old skin off.  Dan and I worked out a deal and he was shipping me one.
Well, yesterday evening, I get home from a long day of work.  My wife is super giddy, so I'm thinking, cool, it's Valentine's day.  My wife also likes to collect beautiful (read - expensive) lamp stands, and has had her eye on one that is sliver/bronze with hand blown glass.  I've refused because it is super expensive.  Anyways, I ask her, what are you so excited about?  'Nothing... did you notice you got a package in the mail?'  So I head toward the front door, where she has dragged in the box and it dawns on me... It's Valentines day, and this would be about the right sized box for a silver and bronze hand blown glass lamp stand.

So... I had to get online last night and make a purchase.  Know what it was?  Some suckers... suckers you ask?  Yup, I plan to give one to each of you that I had going on this story!  Ha!  Lamp stands, really?  It was the best thing I could think of.  Ha!
Dan, I got the boot lid, thanks! 

Lol yes you had me fooled.  Toss out the complimentary carpet underlay!

Also, yah or nah on the bracken?

Ha!  The carpet underlay was awesome.  I was not expecting that when I opened it.
I plan to take a real look at the bracken tonight and bring it to a family vote.  I only had time to glance in the box yesterday and needed to get on with V-day festivities.

Whew... not sure that anyone is feeling love for bracken. Funny how these little cars become a little family member. We used to have a (more) original mini. It was harvest gold. The family wanted this one to look like the other one, but maybe a shade different. Bracken was supposedly it.
So... back to the drawing board- but bright-ish is a requirement. I'm really liking nightfire red ... but I'm hesitant to make another red mini. There is a lot of them for a reason, they look good.
Anyways, I ran a fan test this weekend. I straight wired it, then shook the mess out of the empty radiator. No blade hitting the radiator, I should be good - you were right MPlayle. And man, does that fan suck!  Serious, I could feel air being sucked in from a good foot or more away.
I also applied some foam to the condenser and crimped and ran most ac hoses and heater hoses. I had to order two more fittings to make it 'right' instead of just ok. It's coming together really nicely and clean. Working on wiring it up next weekend.

Swing and a miss on bracken!  I wasn't a huge fan at first but it grew on me and looked good on a fully painted car.  Cool retro look.  I should have sprayed some of the tan that Daves clubman was painted in, though it's not bright necessarily.

Is that hose near the header going to be OK or will you have to shield it?

I had to make a steady bracket for Don's hoses as the vibrations from the engine broke them off right at the compressor.

Good to know that about the vibration Dave. I'll pay attention to that. I'm not sure if that hose is too close, what I know is it's not as close as that picture makes it seem. Also, from looking at the few other AC builds out there, they do similar, but worse, they send the cooled line back over the header, which I opted out of.
Also, our buddy longlivekel had a similar build out and I believe his worked well.

I didn't know you knew Kel?

He did a terrific job on his D series swap, but I didn't know if he got his A/C working successfully or not

Small (mini) world. I've never actually met him, I found some posts of his and wrote him some questions. He's been a big help. And you're right, his build was extraordinary. He is the one that highly dissuaded me from giving up on fitting the condesnor up front. Once he moved his up front, he had good function.

Dave, what'd you use to make the line bracing?

I'll see if I can get Don to email me a pic, but both his lines went over to the fender on the left side, so I made a simple bracket that bolted onto the engine with a couple of insulated clamps, just to keep the hoses from vibrating with the engine vibrations...stopped the breakage once and for all.

Several more things checked off the list this weekend.  I got the last two AC lines crimped up and installed.  So it is now a closed system.  Still need to check for pressure leaks and see if it'll hold refrigerant and work. Also ran the rest of the heater lines.  I checked what I could of the system and the blower works and the dampers seem to be operating properly, so it appears to be all wired up right.
Also I got some tunes installed.  Radio is in, the rear speakers are mounted and I got sound!  I've still gotta make some boxes for the front speakers.   Also got the power antenna installed... which required a square hole - weird.   
Last project of the weekend was to get the door seam sealed that I re-skinned, so I can start building those doors back up and putting them back on the car.   
This weekend is not looking great for getting mini work done... have to fly out to Belgium.  February is gone... March looks like several trips of travel and mid-April is sneaking up!

I tried to pressurize the AC system the weekend before last --failed.  For the interface of the hoses to the compressor, I had to get some compressor block fittings from the junkyard, and then cut off the hose fittings, then buy new fittings to cut up and weld onto the compressor block fittings.  After that, I got the hoses crimped on.  The guy who tig'd them on for me evidently had no idea what he was doing, and it leaked like 10 different places when I was trying to pressurize the system.  I took them to a different guy that I know can TIG and he tried to repair them... and did.  But... the hoses were still connected (they were already crimped) and unfortunately, when we tried the second time to pressurize, the hose failed (which I was afraid was going to happen - too hot from welding).  So... I restarted with getting guy 2 to TIG a new fitting on the compressor block fitting and then getting a new hose crimped on the new fitting.  Hopefully at the end of this week I can try to re-pressurize.
I also made some little speaker boxes for the front two speakers... didn't carpet them yet. 
This past weekend, I got some more pieces of the puzzle done.  I got the doors built back up.  After watching Dan's post on weights and then lifting a door that has been built back up, it makes me not want to put them on the car!  Those jokers ARE heavy.  (So I didn't put them back on yet - makes it easier to work on in the garage too)
Anyways, I also got the side glass and back glass back in.
I went ahead and made a temporary gauge and dummy light holder so it won't rattle around and continuously fall during turns.  After I made it, I really like the look of it, so I'll have to make something similar when I get ready to do the actual dash.
The things I have left before the April CMU mini event are:  get the boot lid on, pressurize the AC system (so I'll be able to test it all out), put the front end back on and get the hood and grill to look right,  get about 400 more miles of driving on it. 
She's gonna be ugly!  But hopefully will be reliable and quick.
I can't wait to tear it back down for paint and clean up all the wiring!  It irks me to no end.

Oh... one more thing.  On the boot lid.  I noticed some of the screws that should fit the boot lid are too small for the new one (like the screws for the wires that hold up the lid, and the screws for the latch).  I am guessing this is a later lid?  And my old boot lid had little clips that hold the seal on, for the new one, does it just glue on? 
Thanks

Later lid but the screws should be the same  8.gif.  You can glue that rubber on if you have to. 

The later Minis had the boot seal around the body opening rather than on the boot lid.  for fitting an early seal (early body) to a later lid, gluing as Dan suggests seems the option.

Thanks guys.  So, for now, I'll guess I'll just put the seal on the body and shut the boot quickly.  I only need it for possibility of rain at the April event (2-3 days).  But for when it comes the real time (after paint), the later seals, are they just larger and sort of lock themselves into that area on the body?
Also, yeah Dan, the screw holes are significantly larger than the screws on my old lid.  I was confused as well - but just assumed the later lid has a thicker screw.  I found some screws to fit, they were metric (maybe there is an SI equivalent - but that's harder to find for fine thread), M6x1.  That's a pretty thick screw.  I'll have to drill out (slightly) the cable ends and the rear latch holes to fit the thicker screw.  Anyone else experience this on a replacement lid? 

The later seals are much easier to work with.  They just seal in  different spot is all.

The screws on my 89 are still the small ones.......

Lots more done in the past two weekends.
First picture is the boot lid screw difference.  I don't think it matters, just in case anyone is replacing a lid, it's something to note that you might need to source different screws.
Got the boot lid on... then off, then on, then off, etc.  Ha!  Fitting up anything new is fidgety.  But, I got the gaps pretty good now and am happy.  For the time being, I just glued the old seal on.  It'll get a new seal with the real rebuild (like my Flowmaster sicker?).
This weekend I put the doors back on - but I'll have a do a bit of fidgeting with the lower seals area to get the bottom of the door right, sort of sticks out a bit now as it is.  The front end and hood also went on and the gaps are pretty decent there.
I also got busy with a stud welder to fit my flares.  They'll get the rubber backing strip around them in the real rebuild, but for now, they look pretty good.  And I got a passenger seat in.  None of the interior will made the cut for the final rebuild... but it's good enough for the April event.  I also got a different color spray paint to cover over some of the exposed metal... I'm going for 'street camo' paint look now.
This weekend I put about 200 miles on it.  Problems... I have still been unsuccessful in getting the AC system to hold pressure all because one welded fitting.  Always, always make sure the tig welder knows what he is doing.  My first guy did not, and basically ruined the part.  The guy that has been trying to repair it, evidently can't get it clean enough to stop all the worm holes (even by trying to grind it all back down).  I'll have to start that hose from ground up again, with the good tig guy.  Been sorta aggravating that the first guy has cost me so much time and effort because he didn't know what he was doing.
Cooling... I noticed the fan would have to kick on in normal driving, 70 mile an hour interstate (which happens always in a stock mini), but I wanted mine to cool only off airflow (if possible), unless at idle- then use the fan.  I ended up cutting a bit more of the grill open and it made it significantly better - fan did not cut on (even though half the radiator is not in direct airflow).  But, the temps outside are 50-60, so I think I am still marginal when considering summer temps.  I may have to give up on my ideal of no fan during driving, or look into possibly doing some louvers or something, but they would need to be relatively un-noticeable.
Toe - the wheels were terribly out of line.  I had planned for an alignment, but it didn't work out, yet.  Jedduh and I threw some tape measures on it yesterday afternoon and revealed 3/4 to 1 an inch toe out!! Ouch.  No wonder the wheels were fighting each other.
It's really fun to drive though!  Lots of pictures to come...   

I forgot to get pictures of the whole car with the front flares too, but did have one shot of a front flare.
Also, the new headlights (trucklites), although spendy, are phenomenal.  I highly recommend.

How big of a hassle was it to get the boot handle to line up? I know that some/all? of those repros didn't line the handle up properly to the latching mechanism. 

Man, this is looking so good Ben. I can't wait for you to give me a spin in it at CMU59.  ;D

I meant to share this with you before you got the stereo installed. It's a "headunit-less" stereo. All you use is a small control pad that can be wired to up front, then your phone just bluetooth's to it. Justin mentioned you wanted something concealed and hidden. Same process for wiring up all the speakers but no visible headunit.

Kenwood Amp+Headunit - https://amzn.to/2I26fOo

Dan, you are right, the latch holes didn't line up.  Actually, the large hole even visibly looked a bit off center.  I ended up having to walk the big latch hole over North East a good 1/4 inch or so with a rasp.  But that then got into the screw holes that hold on the handle, so I had to walk those over too.  Then I back welded to close it all back in some, and carefully worked the rasp to get back to round holes and then ground it all back flat with a disc.  It took some time, but do-able.
Actually, the hinge holes were off enough too to where I decided to use them on the boot lid and then just walk over the holes on the body.  But... the body holes had been previously 'repaired', so it's possible those holes were off anyways.

Thanks Cole!  We'll certainly go for a spin.  Justin told me what you were doing for tunes and I considered that route.  I ended up with the stereo though because I end up listening to the radio a good bit, sometimes CDs and don't pay for any of the services (not as savvy as you).  But... the head unit I put in is already broken... way to go Sony!  At least they are sending me a replacement... but I am a little concerned that a 'today standard manufacturing' might not withstand the vibrations and bumps of the mini without some damping.  I'll try this new one and see what happens.

Is it possible the boot lid uses different screws because it is a reproduction part?    (not Heritage?)  If it was made elsewhere that would account for the metric threads. 

Bruce, I'm sure that is possible.

This weekend, I didn't do a whole lot on the mini - just re-wired a relay since it will run the radiator fan for both the AC line pressure, and coolant temp.  And I put on the side view mirrors (funny how shiny they are compared to the car).  I also worked on the AC line some more where the one weld was giving me a fit.  I think I have it mostly taken care of now, but can't yet charge the system because the body work is on the front end and the connections are too tight with the front end on ( I might change this as well).  At this point, I would rather drive the car and make sure it's ready for the CMU event, than take it back a part.  Oh - I got the replacement radio back in - so far, so good.  A couple more pictures with flares on...
Does anyone know a good place to get some louvers?  I've seen a couple places on line where I can buy blanks and then weld some in, but didn't know if anyone knows specifically of a place?  I would like to cut and weld in a few in front of the radiator as inconspicuously as possible.  I need some more air flow to the radiator.  It cools ok now in normal driving, but every now and again the fan has to come on.  Only about 1/4 to 1/3 of the radiator is in air flow. 
Dave, does your friend's PuP do the same with cooling?
Also header wrap.  I've seen lots of thoughts on this.  Anyone have suggestions?  It'd have to make a big difference in my case, the header is only 6-8 inches or so from the radiator. 
As I said, it's ok, but I'd like to see if I can get it to a state where it will cool itself without the radiator fan while in normal driving.  It might just not be possible - and that'll be ok if it's just the way it is.

I don't want you to paint the car. It looks so cool in the "multi-panel" look it has right now.

Cole, get it right, it's called 'street camo'...

Oh well in that case you are missing a crucial part of the design.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/X5EAAOSw3h1ZV-kD/s-l300.jpg

;D ;D ;D

Bits more done this weekend.  Got an alignment done - SO much better now.  I used some numbers MiniDave had online - except for the toe numbers - Dave what were your toe numbers again?
Modified the alternator tensioner bracket and changed the belt position - it could foul on the driveshaft during bumpy rides - all good now.
Made a new air funnel - two purposes - separate the header and radiator some, and funnel more air over to the radiator core.  Seems to help a lot.  The fan never needed to come on, but it was a cool-ish day.  A similar drive on a similar temp day needed the fan.  I also cut one more hole on the very bottom 'spoiler'? which will also get a funnel. 
I have also achieved my 500 mile test run goal!
And... got an AC hose fitting re-welded (TIG - which I don't have) and tried to fill the system.  Failed again.  Pressure got too high on the low side - must be a blockage somewhere, or somehow the expansion valve is stuck.  I betcha I have had it hooked onto the AC machine 7 times now.  Usually it failed because a weld (see previous posts), but it seems to be all nice and tidy... just gotta figure out why it wouldn't take the full charge.

Does the fan come on with the A/C compressor? If not it pretty much has to or the low side will go crazy....

Fan does not come on with the compressor.  The fan will come on off two signals - coolant temp sensor, or from the trinary switch if line pressure gets too high (like 250psi).  I called vintage air, they say for charging, it needs to have fan on.  I still don't think that'll get it.  They also said something about if the machine is charging with fluid or gas.  I have no idea.
I can certainly wire in to the relay a fan on wire when compressor is on - making it three reasons to turn on the fan.  You think this is what I should do?

Yes.

Well guys... thanks for all the help!  I made my goal...I was able to drive the car for the CMU59 event!  And it sure was fun!
I did have the tool bag out quite a bit, but I think it was reasonable.  The first spirited day, I broke the tack welds on the shifter.  a few months back, I had cut it and laid it back some and only tacked it back (didn't want to heat up all the grease in the cup).  A muffler shop at a lunch stop was able to fix me up.
Second day, I completely lost brakes.  Bit scary.  Turns out, the master cylinder went out.  Still baffled by this one, it was new-ish, installed right before I tore it down for the welding work.  Packed away nicely (better part of 2 years), reinstalled and bled out.  No problems for 500-700 miles, Yellow tag master, both circuits failed.
Next steps... take a break - do some house work! 
I still need to finish the AC charge, just to make sure it is working well... but may give up on that until after I have torn down and rebuilt it all (with nice paint!).
Weld in some reinforcing for the rear seat belt install.
Weld in tabs to fit a real dash.
Weld on tabs to hold fuel and brake lines still under the car.
Fix master and a couple other niggly issues.
I always post with pictures... but looking back through CMU59 photos... I didn't take a single picture of my car... too ugly!

Well Bahowe1 we happen to have taken many of your car ourselves!

Let's take a vote... Right or Left taillights?

If you vote left, I didn't care about your opinion anyway.

You all have been a super helpful forum (thanks Dan!). If anyone is reading, I will share some (hopefully) helpful hints on welding - nothing new.  I am a self taught welder, so anything I say may be incorrect and wrong, but you all have been helpful and I thought I could at least share what I have found that allows me to weld in panels - using these taillight plates as the example.
I use a Hobart Handler 110 unit, with the gas bottle and solid core.  Most times, I operate it on this thin stuff at a level 3 power and feed speed of 35, gas flow around 35 (because I weld near the door of the garage and sometimes it's a little airy).
I started by removing the taillight (photo 1), then using the new piece to trace around to show me where to cut metal (photo 2).  Next I use HF specials - both their cheap grinder and their cut off disks to cut out just shy of the line I drew and finish it off to the line with a HF flap wheel - typically a 36 grit. 
Once the fit is nice and snug, with very little gap all around, but enough gap to weld, I use a finer grit disk - an 80 or higher to just take the paint off the edges where weld and heat will be.  Shiny clean is your friend.
Then I use clamps, or my own fingers to hold the new panel flush with the old metal and spot weld a couple places to hold it in place.  Then, just continue to spot weld all the way around the part, maybe an inch or so apart, and then loop back around putting one in between each of the others until you finally have it welded all the way around (photo 3 - about half way through welding).  Then, I use a 36 grit flap to carefully knock off the top edges of the welds - and it helps your 80 and finer grits stay fresh.  Then use an 80 or maybe 120 flap to grind it down flush. 
Spray some paint over top and done (photo 4).

Right just looks right.

Being a MK1 guy I'm partial to the right.  Nice work and description.  One of these days I'm going to buy a welder.  One of these days. 

wow never seen a side by side comparison like that makes the left look really bad.

nicely done...