Ive been working with a local Fellow named Jeff. He referred to me by good word of mouth with the local mini club. He has had an assortment of British cars = including a VERY NICE Restoration of a big Healey 100/4 = and a nice re assembly of a Bugeye that needed some final sorting.. I fixed the final needs and he sent that car to Florida and his father.
TThe Bugeye had a 1275 with a Datsun 5speed swap Wow = that bugeye would roll!
Anyhow = Thru the power of Craigslist = and being speedy. He picked up a 68 Cooper S = with a disassembled engine in the 70's that never made it back on the road.... The original owner carted the car and all its parts around for about 40 years= and last year decided to sell. Jeff picked up the Car + and "everything" with it earlier this summer. car had to be moved on 4 shop dolleys. 4 flat tires + dead hydro system. The rest of the car came in about 10 Plastic bins.... engine block + 3 other engines of unknown ??
When I first got with jeff to discuss options... noticing the 60's SCCA Stickers in the windows= Original 68 Californa black plates still on the car . Original horse hair padding under the spare tire... This car had some very original facts to it.
Doors worked well= all hardware present.
It was MISSING the original carpet and seat's with thier coverings... We dicsussed all thoughts and he came to the final dcision to ' preserve" this car.
For now = We took some time to seprate all the parts that came with it 10 bins turned to 6 = with either duplicate parts. or Rear wheel drive parts= or things that just are british!.... then getting into drivetrain... Original 333 gearbox was under a 998 austin america engine (that was siezed)
My first task. Complete gearbox dissassembly and assessment.... Clearly this lump has been out in the weather= 5 quarts old oil and about 1 gallon of water came out of the drain plug. NASTY inside...
The lump is headed for another life= but the Gearbox has been saved. New bearings all thru-out = New 3 sychros inside. and jeff even went ahead with a 3:10 CWP for a better highway use....
THe engine was the next attention.. 1275 - thinflange was there-- and it has been honed.. and it has been decked ( and it has been sitting so it has some surface rust) New .20+ pistons in a box + rods are present... its all there... except... Crank Bearing Caps/!!!! oh man.. what now!
After enggh parts digging = we found 3 caps = NOT Origianl= but Home Made.. Drilled and fit the studs.. This now is over my head for an engine rebuild.
Jeff talks to the origianal owner.. and more story comes out = In the 70's ... someone lost the caps... The engine was never put back together... a +998 AA was put on the gearbox but that didnt last long = It all came back out and never got back together. The story is more complete!1!
Well = this engine build now scared me = I turned to my dad, where i learned my skills = MG Matters Restorations. His 40+ years of experience will get Jeff's engine back in place... The plan so far is to use the Aftermarket caps + machine and make work= but thy dont know = Might still have to find some original caps and turn to the Machine shop to make those work.
With the engine build oursourced... i now have near all the suspension and drive train in my possession for refurbishment.
I invested in a Harbor freight Blaster = and it is now the best tool in my shop= Add a Dust seperator and a Vacc that blaster is the best... Ive been Blasting parts for near weeks now. And about to have a Chassis painting party. We outsourced the Sandblast of the sub frames. and they are ready for re assembly. New hardware going in near everywhere... Bushings and rubbers. ... and with this = This will be my first Hydro car to work on...
Jeff had the Hyrdro bags re' Plumbed= and they are refurbished and should be ready for new duty.
Mini spares sells OEM Hydro lines = ready to go under his shell (his were broken in the rear from a bad tow or something...
Brake lines being restored.
The body is styaing original paint + patina. Dent Wizard came and worked on a few 'storage dents"
The overall goal is a Preserved driver - with a newly restored drive train under it... In the end if he ever wants to Paint the body = the mechanical s are DONE.
Ill try to take more pics = Painting + blasting ist that fun. Theres NO welding to happen in this project because the body is the most solid ive ever seen!
Jeff has cleaned the shell as its at his house= not removing many rubbers or seals as to keep it origianl.
For the interior he also found = on Mini mania= USED brocade interor = that nearly will match the patina of the whole thing... Aged.... New carpet will go under it all and tidy it up.
Just adding a few more things from this project...
Sorry for the long post= I ll be able to now hopefully take more pictures Keep the action steady.
Fuel tanks have already been removed= blasted + clean for re install.
And i now have my hands full for re assembly of all the parts that make the car roll.
The whole assroment came with almost every rubber piece needed for the whole drivetrain = CV Boots + Ball joints+ Tie rods all sorts of spares that dont even need to be ordered now! Will be a nice winter project to get this car back on its wheels = And learn how to pump up hydro! .
Great story. Will be fun to follow along.
Indeed! Sounds like a fun one - part time-capsule, part renovation, part restoration. Looking forward to following along.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1198.0;attach=5830;image)
I believe that end cap is from a Sprite, you can use it, you just have to lop off the seal retainer part, then of course they'll have to be line bored.
If on the engines the oil pick up tube hole is threaded, those are Sprite/Midget blocks....you can use them in a Mini with some very small modifications.
Nothign Crazy to update == just more Blasting Parts + Por -15 and topcoat.. Near all the suspension is done.
Ordering a batch of needs for the suspension rebuild including Arm Rebuild kits and bushings to do Everything.
Looking ahead at the Hydro Needs.. Jeff already sent all 4 hydro bags to have them ' re plumbed" so they have been refurbished.. New hydro lines going under the car.. and we have to start thinking about pumping it up.
I know there are how tos on http://www.austinamericausa.com/ -
Asking here=does anyone on the east coast have a BMC Hydro service unit? or has anyone also built the DIY pump approach and would rent that?
If We could avoid building all the tools to pump a hydro system that would be Amazing!
Engine block is at machine shop next having all he required work done to get the bearing caps to work.. It will happen.
Nice winter project for sure!
The local guy who has a hydro Cooper S uses a grease gun! I haven't seen it yet to understand how it's been modified to work with liquid but he says it works a treat.
Where did you send the bags to be refurbished?? I know one of his is leaking and needs the hose replaced.
Quote from: MiniDave on December 12, 2016, 09:19:06 AM
The local guy who has a hydro Cooper S uses a grease gun! I haven't seen it yet o understand how it's been modified to work with liquid but he says it works a treat.
I saw a handheld pump that looked like a grease gun being used about 30 years ago. Unlike with grease, it required almost no effort at all to pump. No idea if it started life as a grease gun or just looked like one.
Edit: I see that MiniMania has an expensive one (what a shock) for sale. So, based upon typical MM markup, perhaps there are ones in the UK for half the price of the MiniMania one?
http://www.minimania.com/part/TOOL01-SMALL/Austin-Mini-Hydrolastic-Fluid-Pump--Small-Lightweight-Version
Bingo. Here's how to build a hydrolastic pump:
http://members.tripod.com/austin_america/id63.html
For best results, pull a vacuum on the system like the BMC unit does, that way to can remove most of the air to prevent future corrosion, and best ride quality.
Here's one for sale on Ebay, for considerably less than $250! Looks oddly "similar" to the one from MM £57.
http://www.ebay.ie/itm/NEW-Hydragas-Hydrolastic-MGF-Metro-1100-Suspension-Pump-2-/172430666718?hash=item2825ab2bde:m:mM6j_hQab-13qC5V3ek_VzA (http://www.ebay.ie/itm/NEW-Hydragas-Hydrolastic-MGF-Metro-1100-Suspension-Pump-2-/172430666718?hash=item2825ab2bde:m:mM6j_hQab-13qC5V3ek_VzA)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/22/!B3Ny3kQBGk~$(KGrHqEOKjcE),7RKSzmBMldheY4mg~~_12.JPG)
I think Dooder has a factory original 18G 703 Service unit, stand and all. I always thought these looked very "Robby the Robot" ;D
(http://members.tripod.com/austin_america/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/hydrolasticmachinewithcar.jpg)
MiniDave = Thanks for the ebay link !!
= That's looking like a viable route for our needs. Even they describe a 'low loss connector" that can add vacc to to evacuate the system before adding fluid.. Will be good to do as described By Nick.
Probably going to get it coming. = for future reference i should have this pump system available for rental!
_______________________
Ive managed to build up the front nuckles with new lapped and secured balljoint assemblies= Looking good. Awaiting on bearing sets to continue the builds. and upper and rear arm sets to arrive to rebuild to load on to subframes.
Once subframes are more ready = body will be coming to my place to start the official re assembly! to get back on wheels.
Moving right along. A nice box delivered from the UK of many needed little things.. time to get moving. Some items got a simple fresh paint + fixing other things went to professionals for rebuilds.
Calipers rebuilt by Apple Hydrolics
New Wheel bearing sets in hand
New U Joints in hand for Hardy Spicers to rebuild.
New arm bearings install for both front and rear arms with bushigns replaced
Repaired Hydro bags ready to go in subframes.
Gallon of Hydro fluid delivered preparing to air up hydro!
Coming along nicely, my local guy bought one of those Ebay pumps, I'll let you know how well it works once it gets here. Might be a while tho, he doesn't drive his Minis when the salt is on the roads, so it might be March before they come out of hiding.
The other guys might have already mentioned this but isn't that car a '67? Has the new owner run a Heritage certificate yet?
If that car was in the UK it would fetch $40-50K! Good for you guys!
67' / 68' I personally have been going by the California black plates that came on the car. I know the owner does have the Heritage certificate. but i havnt looked closely enough at it myself... it could be a case of = built in 67' = sold and registered in 68'
It is a cool project none the less. I know what the owner paid for the lot and lump of boxes. Ill politely leave it as between 7-10K $ he paid.
At first i gasped at but now knowing these days what original 60's S cars do go for in the homeland... I Think he got a great buy... even with a full engine build up.and drive train refresh.
The cut-over from Mk. I to Mk. II bodystyle was around October 1967. So, since it is a Mk. I, the car was built before that timeframe.
However, as I understand it, back in late 1967/early 1968 the Austin-MG dealers in the US were anxious to get all the new Coopers they could knowing the spigot was going to dry up completely effective 1/1/1968 due to the new federal motor vehicle laws going into effect at that date and the Mini not meeting them. So BMC complied with the requests and sent a bunch of late Mk. I models, and all the Mk. II cars that had build dates up to 12/31/1967. I'm sure that when those cars arrived in the USA, the Austin-MG dealers titled some (many) of those cars as 1968 models.
Does anyone have any Original Cooper S Steel Wheels?
4.5x10? Any condition considered that can be restored. (this car came with skinny wheels, would like to get 4.5's on it.
Would even consider buying singles , until we can find a full set.
I have A wheel, I'll have to see if I can determine the size - it's in decent shape too.....
Quote from: jedduh01 on January 04, 2017, 02:06:13 PM
Does anyone have any Original Cooper S Steel Wheels?
4.5x10? Any condition considered that can be restored. (this car came with skinny wheels, would like to get 4.5's on it.
Would even consider buying singles , until we can find a full set.
The original steel wheels for the Cooper S were made by Rubery Owen, and they are of course, out of production. But there are some reproductions available.
These are made of steel:
http://minispares.com/product/Classic/Wheels/Wheels/21A1286WHITE.aspx?2003&ReturnUrl=/shop/classic/Wheels.aspx
http://minispares.com/product/Classic/Wheels/Wheels/10/21A1286.aspx?200301&ReturnUrl=/product/Classic/Wheels/Wheels/21A1286WHITE.aspx
These are reproductions of the steel Cooper S wheels, but made of alloy. These seem pretty cool to me:
http://www.johnbrownwheels.com/products/jbw-45-x-10-csr.html
Thanks Bruce... for all to know some details.
The Minispares options are not available for a reason.. Quality.
They once were available but MS had a rough go with them from the supplier (China) as for being out of round = or crappy metals.
we already talked to mini spares about them and they unfortunately don't have a solution now or in the short future for a replacement steel wheel in that type spec.
I know Mini mania Shows the 'same' wheel at 125$ a pop = but im 99% sure= they are 'special ordered" from mini spares and would fall under the same circumstances of quality or non availability.
The JB Wheel set = will inquire. - thanks for the direction.
I have run across these alum wheels before= as from our friend Willie B = He had a set like these= they were 10 x ?- but the backspacing was HUGE to clear big 8.4 Brakes... that 'poke" inst acceptable here. This fact still UNKNOWN for these JB Wheels.
Will inquire and see if this is the route to take or not... Why not. they look good.
I hadn't heard about quality issues with the reproduction steel wheels, good to know.
Quote from: jedduh01 on January 05, 2017, 07:20:04 AM
The JB Wheel set = will inquire. - thanks for the direction.
I have run across these alum wheels before= as from our friend Willie B = He had a set like these= they were 10 x ?- but the backspacing was HUGE to clear big 8.4 Brakes... that 'poke" inst acceptable here. This fact still UNKNOWN for these JB Wheels.
?? I wouldn't expect ANY 10" wheel to clear the 8.4" brakes. Clearance needed by going to the bigger brakes was the whole reason Minis switched from 10" to 12" wheels back in the mid-1980s when the 8.4" disc brakes were introduced.
My understanding is if you want to stay with 10" wheels (and, IMO, they are simply the best sized wheels which fit the proportions of a Mini) then you need to switch to (or stay with) the 7.5" Cooper S brakes. Right?
The steel wheel I have is in really good shape, but it's a 3 1/2" X 10"
Finally made a big step this weekend. = We moved the body up to my place to start some Real assembly.
Traveled perfectly on my little utility trailer. We (4 of us) easily lifted the shell on and off the trailer.
Got the shell into my place on jack stands and had an afternoon to 'go at it". With Ready subframes. We was about to go for it.. Bolt them in
Then remembered.. All of the underbody lines need to go in.!!!
2 Hydro Pipes Front to rear Plus the fuel line + brake line. Brake line was broken from the get go .. so that put us at a stop until we get a new one. Mini spares also offers Pre Bent Hydro Lines = THEY Are a perfect fit. The RH side has to wait until new Brake line arrives for routing and installation too.
Ill be able now to get more' FUN' pictures = as parts will be installing as we go. The list is increasing of' NEEDS' The engine is being assembled. We might have a Running Cooper S by Spring! Master + brake CYL. + Speedo Cable ready + other odds and ends...!
Did confirm :
This Heritage certificate is built in 66 - along with matching numbers on Wiper + latches.
Registered as a 67. and with a 68 Black California plate on it.
Made some cracking progresss over the last week's.
Owner came over and lent a hand wrestling a few Difficult parts.
Minisport pre bent Hydro lines= FIT Very well = but needless to say still need some Persuasion to not press on other items. like Sub frames or body or such.
Brake line also new = run = routed. Well!
Subframes went UP and in PERFECTLY! nice straight body = Everything lines up great!
Hung all ready suspension components! Lots of PRETTY new Sexy parts!
We're also using pictures from some of the nice Bring A Trailer Cooper's to mimic the original items. Line runs. Even the hydro lines had a neat little rubber wrap for some body padding that never seen before.
This car had a 're route= of the brake lines to remove the servo = We managed to salvage the original hard lines from the master to the servo. and will install all that mess AFTER engine goes back in.
Are the new hydro lines SS? or some other non-rusting material?
Quote from: MiniDave on February 17, 2017, 08:14:33 AM
Are the new hydro lines SS? or some other non-rusting material?
Certainly not Steel
Not as pliable as the 'replacement' brake lines we can get for our cars. But seem the same type of material. But without a doubt Stiffer , Firm er Will bend but takes effort.
They only needed minimal persuasion to fit very well.
Not a project i would want to have to do without these pre bents' I was suprised how far UP the reach into the engine bay. And how much they bend behind the subframe under the floor.
About to be ready to put on wheels (refurbished cooper S LP88's) and Dunlop 10's
Then to pump up hydro!
Yum = Cooper S Thin Flange. Original Crank+ original Head , Original block.
Replacement main caps were machined to fit. (originals lost in the time the car was apart).
Bores required bore +.040 over (block was already .020 (but with the rust from sitting needed cleaning up))
Should run well!
What do you use to pump it up? I have a local car that needs one bag fixed, so I'll need to drain and refill it at some point.......the owner bought a small pump gun off Ebay, I haven't seen it yet.
For the hydro = Jeff the owner went ahead with the Ebay link you sent a few months ago = The seller was a great help.... BUTTT!
IN the end after waiting for shipping the item never delivered.... returned to seller... seller is not helping or cooperating.. Seller messed up the shipping details or address or SOMETHING and returned to sender. Refund on just the Item happened,. and the seller wants $$ to re ship again.. Royal mail. Thant is also not successful all the time.
Moving on.
I reached out to a Mini Mania member = from a post he made his own hydro tool out of a Bean Can master + some adapters. He is politely renting it to me.. More to learn for ACTUALLY getting it pumped up. there are lots of ' how to's online + hope to try in a few weeks.
Quote from: MiniDave on January 04, 2017, 02:14:51 PM
I have A wheel, I'll have to see if I can determine the size - it's in decent shape too.....
Dave. I just noticed this post. Is the Single Wheel A Cooper S Wheel? LP88? or such? (Round Circle)cut outs?
If so = Jeff would be VERY VERY Interested in it. He needs 1 more for a spare in the boot.
Thanks for your thoughts!
No, it's a generic 70's steel wheel....21A2744
Some pics attached
One step Forward = Few steps back. Its been a few weeks.
Received a great box from a MM member with his Hydro pump on loan. I couldn't wait = Time to inflate a hydro suspension! got to work . His tool was Perfect. Followed a few advise . Lower the front . leave the rear raised= start pumping. His tool is a Master cyl = adapted to a hydrolic line to a Fitting to fit the shrader valve. Importantly it has a proper one way valve and a pressure gauge.
Started inflating.. (pumping in fluid 1 , 2, 3 ,4 resivors) of fluid Going somewhere! and not on the ground ... Front starts to lift .. Rear starts to press down - all at about 100 PSI... Pump to 180... and stop there for now. Few peopel speak to run the system a few times= pressure and deflate to try to get the air out . when you dont have a Vacc pump available.
On to the Drivers side. == Pump pump= start to see movement and pressure=== OH NO ++ Fluid coming out of the sub frame!
Disassemble, remove rear displacer == to find the repaired bag has a leak ) where they Soldered /welded the hydro fitting on : Must be returned for repair!
Waiting currently for the "fixed" bag to return.
Also made a weekend trip home to my dad. Who had the engine complete!
Haul finished engine + many sourced parts back to NC for starting to assemble critical engine components! to the transmission! Finally
My garage is now Packed ! everything needs to start to go oN a car ! not just around it!
Refurbished Cooper S wheels with very classic dunlops are here + Jethot Manifold + MANY little this's and thats to continue on! Time to get some free time and put things together!
For this =started laying out needs to mate the engine to the transmission = A-OK
gears = Primary gear Uh OH!
Thelump that was ON the transmission was a 998.... small crank- that of course had small primary gear.. No way fitting the replacement 1275
On to the sourcing boards. We fortunatly know a local guy named Barry He's an old racer, Has parts . Call him up.. "yea, i got 3" SWEET!
Visit Barry, Having 3..... I wanted one, for a future spare, Jeff needed one,.
But - Barry only wanted to sell 1. Oh well , Jeff got the Gear that was needed. Fit feels perfect on the crank, Condition looks perfect for the 'used" and it was a great finding save for an important part.
Ahh, Solid Progress
Replacement 1275 primary gear + resized thrust washer. Turned into needing Idler gear thrust washers changed too to fit all nicely! Got the lump all together :)
Tidy'ed in the engine bay and put that baby in!
Had a headache (of coure) with an axle , hardy Spicer being too long and not mating up = After dissassembing axless= found the splines were disgusting and not alloiwng full slide on the axle...
Oh yea= forgot to install the speedo cable before going in
Fought with the MK1 rubber seal from the rad shroud to the fan.
Managed to fit in the original cooper S Exhaust manifold
WHEW!
____________________
For sure finding more pieces here and there needed here and there (trying to keep most "period" authentic) as possible (wire hose clamps or such).
Electrical pre testing before engine went in! .
NO Starter but made the starter solenoid click.
Used a 10-15 Amp fuse jumper to run test functions
So far the regulator box is doing what its' supposed to" to distribute power.
Suprisingly ! Dome light worked without any touching, Cluster lights worked fine
grounds + fuse box needed cleaning .
Horn Honked
Woke up a Lazy flasher relay = I assume will get better with time and use.
Electrical had to be traced in the slam panel to re connect wires + for headlights /markers and turns . One flasher bulb burned out.
OTHERWISE EL:ELECTRICALLY she's alive!
Solid progress......did you get it to crank over on the starter yet?
Great progress, quite inspirational! 77.gif
progress.. while quiet. there still is an attempt at making progress.. While i wanted my garage space back, Outside influencers DID NOT help the progress of getting the car back together.
Hydro = What a headache.... from the previously posted leaking displacer. was sent back for "warranty" = 6 weeks passed before they' re= shipped the repaired unit == YES very disappointing.... USPS Tracking = Texas , Alaska , Charlotte.... NEVER DELVIERED> LOST......
Ok 1 week more no displacer no info no update no word = USPS doesn't know... lost. (it might be return to sender they say...)
Finally decide = take other actions... Find 2 more ' displacers for a different fix.. Easy job to do = but also depends on the quality of the displacer you have. We had 1 = very rotten one/ UN-saveable. 2nd. Fixed Re Pipe Plumbed + Held Good PSI Pressure.. OK Ready to install.
Installed and th enext day = I get a call = your 1st displacer returned= we will send it back to you again... ... wait for the 'match" to arrive back. Arrived back. Repair shop forgot to send 'adapter" needed for the hydro lines to the car.. = another 3 days USPS...
Arrived back = installed and guess what == same displacer LEAKS AGAIN! --- worse this time . Where the rubber meets the metal .. Simply dead.
back install the 5th' fixed displacer == Pump Hydro hold breath . Say a prayer
YAY Car on 4 wheels.!!!
Then time lets make some progress. Lets make this engine run. Put some Fuel in tank ... SU Pumps . fuel to carbs = Starts right up VROOM>. SMELL OF FUEL However is concerning... YEP fuel pipe had a pinhole + sprays all over + BIG MESS! of course= leaks right betweent he subframe and body.
UGH + next job = very soon = re run the fuel pipe from engine to tank.. Not fun.. annoying...
Sorry to hear about your displacer problems, but very cool to see the cross section of a displacer.
Big Positive progress!!
Not many pictures to post... of course a headache or two .. but the first target has been reached.
67 - 68 Cooper S has moved back to the owners Jeff's garage.. we took a delightful long = cross town drive to deliver her home yesterday.
Of course sorting a car back on the road is a timely process. fix this and tweak that = we finally ended with a drive-able cooper!
While i'm not complaining a few oversights on both our parts lead to some further re assembly headaches... Use these as reminders for your own rebuilds. Noting Here....
Once first back on 4 wheels Few weeks ago I found the passenger side steering rack bushing was WRECKED, destroyed. non existent. >. should have been renewed before sub frames went back in.. oh well. Now an In car repair...
I was lucky with fixing.. found the later mk3 on nylon bushing can be modified to fix the Cork Bushing that is originally in a Mk 1 rack.
Please see details here = documented on Mini Mania = https://www.minimania.com/msgThread/121649/1/1/Mk1__Steering_rack_Bushing_repair_-_it_can_be_done (https://www.minimania.com/msgThread/121649/1/1/Mk1__Steering_rack_Bushing_repair_-_it_can_be_done)
After a few test engine starts. . MAN this place smells like fuel = next morning. LOTS Of fuel on the ground....
HUMM == Oh = there it is = broken Original fuel line =Pinhole rust leak... right behind the crook in the front sub frame.. We wanted to use as many original parts as possible, but here = we failed by a seemingly innocent part. ... metal fuel line had a pinhole rust thru spot= fuel would spray out of the line.. HAD to be replaced.
Another fun operation to re install a new metal fuel pipe= front to back.. with the sub frames in place
OH boy= Time to drive.!!
First drive was great= down the road straight =! up to temp= good oil pressure all seems happy.. A little darty on the steering. (oh yea) lets check the alignment ! 2 inches TOED OUT! Looked good = But on measuring I was second guessing my tape measures! could there really be 2 inches of toe out! dialed that in to a 1/8th toe! MUCH More civilized around the neighborhood! WHEW!
after 2 drives== water on the ground == whats that.. = Freeze plugs..
Bummer= who knows why = or how. or what === weeping freze plugs== had sealer from the engine build but just didn't do it.
Replaced two and took a new test drive = engine up to temp== other 2 are leaking :( used another type of sealer= replaced the other two.. again.
Test drive= up to temp = Leaking 2 AGAIN! oh no make that 3 leaking AGAIN!!!!
Reach out = ask for suggestion = go that route. Sand all edges for more bite= + jB Weld.. Did that operation for one more time!
let dry for 36 hours= water in= test drive = good temps = good tune. HOLDING WATER.
Jeff just took the car out today and reported success = Holding water! Just one of those annoying things!
Happy to report Jeff is Happy Happy to have this car headed towards interior re assembly + show around town time = Cars and Coffee next weekend! is his goal !
I was genuinely happy with how this car rode + drove = Hydro is SOO Soft / floaty and comfortable!
The driving position with the Remote shift gear lever has such an unique direction along with the big original steering wheel adds to the character. Upright seating position . sliding windows. Jeff couldn't believe how hot it was + no air flow! (yes welcome to summer mini driving! )
Now Thru the healey club, jeff picked up a mk1 Sprite.. = might be working on that with him next! DOnt we all love new projects!
Awesome! Well done my friend. Enjoy the garage space...
Good lessons learned to keep in the back pocket.
Looks good!