Have a mini tenant due to arrive in June to fix up his car. The car arrived yesterday.
What's his plan for the car? Full resto? cosmetic only? Power upgrades?
What are the details on the car?
when is he starting on it?
Interesting wheels. Can you post a straight on photo?
I'll get a shot of the wheels tomorrow for you.
He's pretty much going full refurb and paint job. Engine transplant from a 1098 to 1275.
Ok here it is.
Cosmic's. They look great refinished.
Got a shipment in.
Looks like you've already turned Justin into a "shop assistant"!
He's the guy with the truck!
Hi there,
As you may have guessed, I'm the guy living in Dan's shop and working on my 1960 Mini. First, a brief background on myself, I'm a 20 year old college student studying Mechanical Engineering at RPI in Troy, upstate NY. This will be my first time restoring a car, and I have little prior experience with cars. I'd like to think of of myself as pretty handy, and I like working with my hands.
Onto the car, I picked her up roughly 7 months ago and have wanted to do restore her ever since. I bought her under the knowledge that she was a slightly rare lhd '63, it was only until recently that I discovered she was a '60, making things a little more special.
Today was my first day and I started the tear down process. Got the most of the glass out, bonnet, boot lid, seats and seat belts among other things. I was, an sadly still am stuck on removing the doors as the screw heads appear very worn and I cannot find any purchase on them, even with the application of heat. Will tackle that later.
As far as the future is concerned, I plan on; swapping the 1098 that's currently in it for a 1275 spi that will be converted to twin su carbs, replacing the trunk floor, respraying, converting to 7.5" discs, tidying up the interior, replacing the seats and generally refreshing the car.
Plenty of work lies ahead which hopefully should go smoothly.
On a final note, is anyone interested in my cosmic wheels? I'd like to sell or trade them for a set of mini/ultra lites or anything dished.
Thanks!
Cool car i. Also have a 60 nearly done.
Couple tricks on the door screws are try a small amount of valve grinding compound on the tip of the best fitting screwdriver you can find it makes a big difference. Second is see if Dan has a impact driver the kind you hit with a hammer while turning they work well. Also those screw heads are big enough to grip with vice grips if you have to. Or cut a slot with a cut off wheel and try a flat blade screwdriver
I have one of those manual impact hammers that I can bring up if you cant get them free.
Ill bring it up on the next run around. possibly today.
Sometimes the best way to get those screws out is to weld a small bolt to the head, then the combination of the heat from welding and the extra leverage you can get with a wrench on the head of the bolt will get them right out.
... would love to get my hands on a good 1098.... but yer a bit far!
Another update from the last couple of days.
Pulled the fuel tank out with a little difficulty, one of the fittings seemed to have embedded itself in the rotten trunk floor.
On the topic of rotten, removing the exhaust was a real struggle. The exhaust manifold was completely stuck inside the y pipe and took so much hammering, cursing and twisting to remove that the y pipe is completely mangled. Oh and the bolts holding the pipe clamps were rusted too. Fortunately it's out, and will be replaced by a new lcb maniflow manifold leading into a rc40 pipe and exhaust. The intake and twin sus came off without issue, but are in need of a rebuild.
Pulled the radiator out too, which will be replaced by an aluminium 50mm unit.
Finally got the doors off today! Dan showed me to how to use the vice grip technique and it worked well.
Pulled out the transmission linkage and gearshift too.
Then moved on to removing the hubs which had unseen complications. Both balls joints refused to come out completely, even with much persuasion from the ball joint breaker bar, heat, PB blaster, hammering etc. Therefore after much time, we used a cutting wheel to cut through the stubborn bolts, and free the hubs. The lower right control arm and upper left control arm will have to be drilled out to remove the stuck bolts, but already they're out.
Not much left to do before pulling the engine.
Stripping it down.
Pretty soon we can come by for beach volleyball.
The car is getting there in stages. Looking good so far.
It's looking really good so far, but after reading the 'small task' descriptions, I foresee a massive shopping list in the near future.
Perhaps some of the folks on here have some of the parts you need, so it wouldn't hurt to ask when the time comes.
What's going to happen when Dan suddenly owns a hill-top property with a subterranean workshop?
Spelunking expeditions!
Sorry it's been a while since I've posted.
The car has come a long way since then. The motor is out, the last few bits have been stripped off the car, the rotten/fibreglass botch job of the bootfloor has been cut out, the dent in the rear panel has been repaired and the car was sand blasted today.
I also had a bunch of parts come in, exhaust system, suspension kit, new boot floor and the disc brake kit. I was stuck for a while with the bearings races and rubber seals for the brakes, but Dan was able to sort it out in a jiffy. So the brakes are assembled and greased, just waiting for a final torque once on the subframe.
As far as foreseeing a massive shopping list goes, it was sadly a very perceptive prediction. The massive shopping list has since been ordered and should be coming in soon.
There is still a lot to do. The sandblasting expedition has since revealed some lovely bondo work that was hiding rust. So both a panels will have to be replaced. Additionally the entire rear end is iffy. The rear subframe needs to be repaired with some box section and the rear valence and boot lip will have to be grafted on using a section from a section that Dan has lying around.
Other than that, things are going well.
Chin up, it's gonna look great!
This turned out to be too far gone. Tacked a new one in place.
Moving right along....Is it going to be green when its done ?
Tartan red, black roof. Kinda llike Dean's car I did.
New boot floor in place for spot welding.
Couple more pics from yesterday showing a grafted section out of the 60s parts shell I have and a new rear valance. This car had been hit in the rear at some point and had a pretty beat up to non existent boot. Have a small section of lip to fab in and it's good to go.
Who will get painted first, Stan's car or Vikrams?
Liable to be dualing paint jobs. Plus parts of Justin's truck. Tri paint jobs.
Vikram, you'll learn more about automotive engineering this summer than in years of classes!
What color is Justin's truck gonna be? Let me guess........................
Black? :D
Gunmetal grey...pretty much black!
Yeah, I haven't learnt any real engineering at school haha, this is much more enjoyable.
Currently cutting out small rusted sections and patching them. Attached an example showing the evolution featuring frozen pizza.
ahhhh....I see you're using CAD......
(Cardboard Aided Design! ;D)
The guys from Project Binky taught me well
Bodywork is nearly there. Will be touching it up with filler tomorrow where needed.
Stripped and cleaned the subframes today before painting them. Used rattle cans from tractor supply, unfortunately you get what you pay for and the nozzles were no good. Paint is far from perfect but it's just the subframe after all.
Nice painting jig, wish I'd had that when I did mine....the important part is to keep them from rusting (worse) and I'd say you accomplished that.
Been prepping.
Wow, you're going to have 2 shells painted here real soon! 4.gif
If it wasn't the weekend and 4th iI could get the rest of Stan's paint mixed. But yes, both will be painted soon.
Pretty cool picture
Dang, looks like a body shop!
I hope you guys are wearing some kind of good dust mask. Of course all that dust means progress.
He's learning how fun sanding for a week straight is.
It really fills in the time. :D
Sorry
Got the roof painted.
Looks awesome, can see my reflection.
A fly decided to sit on a section at the rear, small blemish at the back to cut a long story short.
Very pleased with result, can finally start seeing what it will look like.
Stuff from the past few days.
Got the roof covered, and nearly finished sanding the body.
Cut out the old shifter cut-out, fabricated and welded in a new plate to cover it up. A little filler over the welds to neaten it up, feels strong. This patch plate will be cut into to house the new rod change shifter.
Lastly, made up a dash moulding and wanted to get your opinions on it. I'll explain myself.
I did it for a number of reasons:
It will let me house a rev counter, next to the speedo
I can neatly and discreetly install a pair of 4" black speakers
Allows me to hide all the wiring.
Lastly I've always like the look of dashes like this! Will look like a works-ish/rally dash when done. Always been a boy racer!
A bit controversial, but the speedo will be moved to behind the steering wheel as opposed to the conventional position.
I'm happy with the fit, needs a fee tweaks though. It's held flush to the rails by three mounts that I built from the subframe reinforcer off cuts. They are secured to the dash by a bolt each from underneath. Interference fit to the dash so no fittings needed on the face.
Thoughts?
It's your car, anything you do to it will be just fine......
Wait....did you completely weld up the shifter hole, cause you need an opening in the center...
Oops.
What do you mean? I thought we could just cut out a new area for the new shifter?
Well you can, but you had a perfectly good cutout that just needed relocated to the center...as in cut out the opening and weld it in the center, but you can just cut out a new hole now. Take measurements off Stan's car before you cut.
I still have the old cut out perfectly intact. So we can reuse it as needed. Won't do any more cutting yet though
Oh perfect 4.gif
Got some more color on.
So, think it will be done in time for him to drive it back to Michigan to school next month?
That's up to him!
The paint will be, right?
Yes, the body is pretty much ready to go. The doors, boot, and bonnet need some tlc but they'll be done too.
Hopefully.
This is a pretty big step. I can get subframes, engine, interior all in now.
Got a month and a few days to get it sorted. Not going to jinx it by saying anything though!
Awesome progress, man.
Dan's the man, man!
Updates from the last few days.
Front and rear subframes on, brake hard line connected.
Tie rods in, but I currently have a 1/4 bolt in the forked end since the one supplied didn't fit. The 1/4 is a bit loose, went to the hardware store but they didn't stock M7. What bolt size do you folks use?
Other than that, rebuilt the carbs with the kit. Picture doesn't show them completely assembled as I'm waiting for the backing paint to dry after a spot of paint. Was thinking of polishing them, but I quite like the patina look...if you can call it that!
Tidied up the interior and sprayed the inner walls and roof, and corrected a few oversprays.
Been on the fence about the carpet kit for a while, and so I came up with an alternative a few weeks ago. Loved it when I test fitted it, so no carpet for me!
Got the pedals covers on, master cylinders in and indicator stalk on.
Finished my dash too, very happy with the result.
Tomorrow I'll mask off the interior now that I'm happy with it, and sand the body ready for paint.
Don't think I have the budget for headliner and door cards, hence the paint. Interior is pretty much done, I like the stripped out/track look. Boy racer, like I said.
Wheels came in too. Couldn't resist a test fit. Dropping them off for blasting and powdercoating up in bartlesville, $50 a wheel isn't too bad.
Dash and another pic
The only thing about the stripped out racecar look - it's loud in there!
Coming along well now.....
Went to drop off the wheels for powdercoating, and a quick trip to the ATM.
Unfortunately on the way back, a hose came loose from a transmission line on Justin's truck that he's kindly been letting me use. Resulting in all the transmission fluid emptying out onto the motorway, leaving me stranded on the hard shoulder.
Justin came to the rescue and organised a ride for both the truck and me back to Dan's shop. Don't know if Justin even posts on here, but just wanted to share my appreciation.
Thanks Justin!
90% done with masking the car, just got the rear tubs to do early morning, and then paint.
Sorry it broke on you. I have the part sitting on my bench at home. I am planning on being up there tomorrow to get it sorted and back on the road for you.
Hope it wasn't too much of an inconvenience.
Vikram pretty much did all the prep, so any screw ups are on him ;D. Came out pretty good overall.
It looks really nice, but I've been quite curious as to why the rear seat and other 'hidden areas' on the interior (under the headliner, for example) are generally not painted when doing this sort of full-rebuild.
Red paint is expensive and he's on a budget.
No worries Justin, was a good experience.
Yeah, my prep work was a bit iffy, my masking job wasn't quite up to par, but it doesn't seem to have done any damage.
Love the result, doesn't look like a shed anymore.
I can appreciate that, but it's going to be hard to paint it later.
I've seen it done all the time on those TV fix-it/flip-it-make-a-fortune-programs on Discovery Channel also - don't paint inside the boot, under the carpet or the roof interior - and then they don't even install a headliner.
John, In my case I asked dan not to waste the time or the paint doing the entire interior because I'll be lining it all with sound deadening material and other means of coating the metal. No use having shiny paint in there. Just needed a sealer coat of primer.
My case was a bit of both.
It's not worth putting down that paint, on areas such as those but at the same time I wanted them painted because I won't be running cards or headliner. I just used cans to paint those bits, and the results are pretty good, didn't go for the cheap ones this time.
Unless the volume is unbearably loud, I'll keep it stripped. I know the lcb will only make things louder, but I have a high tolerance thanks to a few months with the cut off wheel lol.
I know a number of people who wear ear plugs when they drive their Minis, especially on longer trips.
Yup, definitely going to get some
Looks good 4.gif
Put on the pot joints, motor mounts and dropped the 1275 in today.
Even with my skinny fingers, bolting it up was tricky.
Then put in the "new" drive shafts and cv joints.
The gaiters for the outer cv joints are a bit loose, could I use zip ties instead? The fit of the cv joint on the hay however, is excellent.
Wheels turn freely and turn the diff, so I guess I did something right!
Good day
Alright great job!
Zip ties are fine, that's what most people use.....be sure the gaiter is located correctly, not too far over the end of the CV joint.
I'm a little surprised to see you didn't give that motor a fresh coat o paint while you had it out, but I guess that can be next summer's project.......
Good job on getting the engine in, still a ways to go but that's definite progress! 77.gif
I'll give the motor a better clean tomorrow. Painting it is just another thing to do that might make the difference in me leaving with or without the car. I've also heard that unless painted well, the heat from from the block ruins the paint.
I'll paint it when I install the twin turbos 9.gif
I figured that, sometimes you need to know when to say when!
These motors don't get hot enough to blister paint, as long as it's applied correctly it will stick.
So I'm trying to hang the exhaust, and I find an old cotton reel mount that's in the subframe. The nut is mangled and the other end is sheared off. I guess that's why the car had a centre exit. Any ideas on how to get it off?
I've tried welding a bolt on, except it won't hold. I can't use vice grips either because there's no room for rotation
Nope something else is going on here.
I don't have the holes are drilled for the side exit mount.
Somehow I need to figure out how I do that with the subframe on the car
If that's the rear where the exhaust hanger mounts, just drill new holes and put a bolt with nut and lock washer on.
Quote from: Vikram on July 30, 2016, 04:49:15 PM
So I'm trying to hang the exhaust, and I find an old cotton reel mount that's in the subframe. The nut is mangled and the other end is sheared off. I guess that's why the car had a centre exit. Any ideas on how to get it off?
I've tried welding a bolt on, except it won't hold. I can't use vice grips either because there's no room for rotation
Cotton reel mount???
Nice. I like the Newcastle beer sticker on the coil.
jeff
Quote from: MiniDave on July 30, 2016, 05:26:15 PM
Quote from: Vikram on July 30, 2016, 04:49:15 PM
So I'm trying to hang the exhaust, and I find an old cotton reel mount that's in the subframe. The nut is mangled and the other end is sheared off. I guess that's why the car had a centre exit. Any ideas on how to get it off?
I've tried welding a bolt on, except it won't hold. I can't use vice grips either because there's no room for rotation
Cotton reel mount???
Bobbin
Ahhhh so.......
Sorted. Used the air chisel to bust out the rotten bolt and nut. Drilled the holes from the rear, basically blind with a guesstimate. Came out perfectly!
Leave it at that for the day, will finish it tomorrow.
Result.
Feels very secure, and I'm happy with the clearance of the manifold and the pot joints. I'm extremely impressed with the lcb's fitment. I was doing some reading last night in preparation, and one guide said you had to remove the engine steady and rocker cover to the get the manifold in.
No such thing, it dropped right in. I did have to play around with the hangers to get good clearance up front.
The pictures are a bit deceptive, there's a lot more clearance when you see it in person, the gearbox mount casts a shadow. An easy finger's width, and that with the gearbox mount, means that unless there's a catastrophic failure, it should be good.
For those interested in the details, it is:
Millenium LCB exhaust manifold and y pipe linked to an RC40 mid pipe and twin box. 1.75" diameter.
Alrighty then, another box ticked off the list! 77.gif
Yup.
Does this look correct? The shifter is just sitting there, not fastened or anything.
I'll obviously cover up the hole once mounted. I'm a little unsure of whether I can use that rod change adapter bracket from 7, because the mid pipe might get in the way. Might have to do something custom
Put the shifter in and see if it hits anything. The boot is loose on my blue mini, you can pull it up and see where the hole is relative to the shifter.
Might want to put the speedo cable on before you loose and more room in that area.
You will still need the adapter bracket to mount the shifter housing to the tunnel. The angled bobbin attaches to the tunnel opposite the exhaust pipe. The vertical bobbin mounts in the gap between the shifter tail and the exhaust.
I used a brush on some of my interior paint as well.
I think you're doing a great job, I'm sure you'll be glad when it's finished and you're showing it off - "Yeah, that's right, I built it... It's my hobby." 77.gif
Yup, hopefully that day is coming soon.
I'm currently putting the new harness in, a lot harder than I thought. And it's only a mini harness, can't imagine how they wire up other cars.
The wires coming off both my headlamps aren't colour coded. All three are black, is there anyway of distinguishing which wire is which?
Yes, one is the high beams, one is the low beams and one is ground. Hook a test light to a good ground, turn on the lights and touch the probe to one of the wires, if it lights it's low beams, if it doesn't its the ground, do that to the next two wires till you identify the low and ground, the other wire is the high beams, then mark them so you'll remember which is which...
I think that he is asking about the pigtail on the headlight itself? If so do what Dave said then use this diagram to hook to the light plug.
I've got the pigtail wired,it's just the wiring to the harness that's the issue.
I've got a decent number of things hooked up, horn, tank sender, new fuel pump and filters, fuse box. I've wired the starter, but I need confirmation that I've done it correctly.
My old 1098 had an inertia starter, the 1275 has a pre engage with the piggy back solenoid. I'm using the mk1 Cooper s harness from minispares.
There are 4 connections on the starter, a small post which links to the starter and a larger post that I've connected the main battery cable, alternator cable and a large brown cable with ring connector from the loom. Is that correct?
There's also, two spade connectors a large and a small. I've connected a thick brown cable from the loom to the large spade, it's the only one that fits.
I've connected the smaller spade to the red and white ignition line.
Is any of this correct? I've read you need to attach a relay when changing from inertia to pre engage. But does this apply here my loom seems to be a good fit here....
Thanks
I wouldn't put power to this car till you know what each one of those wires does.....either find a good wiring diagram or use an ohm meter and figure out what each of those is for or you could let the smoke out of some things.....
I'm doing all the wiring off the wiring diagram for cooper cars 1961-4, and cross checking against Cooper cars 64 onwards.
This is tricky because it's an aftermarket alternator loom with a pee engage, when the diagrams are for dynamo and inertia starters
Pee engage..... the best kind
Quote from: MiniDave on August 07, 2016, 02:53:58 PM
I wouldn't put power to this car till you know what each one of those wires does.....either find a good wiring diagram or use an ohm meter and figure out what each of those is for or you could let the smoke out of some things.....
I agree but just in case it is sold on ebay.
That bottle looks like it's been used, it's almost empty! ;D
Quote from: Vikram on August 07, 2016, 03:11:32 PM
I'm doing all the wiring off the wiring diagram for cooper cars 1961-4, and cross checking against Cooper cars 64 onwards.
This is tricky because it's an aftermarket alternator loom with a pee engage, when the diagrams are for dynamo and inertia starters
I don't know what a Pee engage is ;D but the function of the wires is the same, you just have to understand what they are supposed to do and wire accordingly....
For example, the white wire with the red stripe is the trigger wire for the starter, the big brown wire should be feeding the fuse panel, if it is then locating it on the starter terminal is fine, as long as the main wire from the Alternator also feeds the same circuit....or is directly located to the main cable for the battery.
The difference between a pre engaged and the other is pretty simple, on the inertia starter only the big main battery terminal is on the starter, all the other wires are on the remote relay. On the pre engaged it's the opposite, but the wires do the same thing. The red white wire is therefore on the small terminal of the starter, and the main battery cable is on the main lug. The big #10 brown wire is on the large spade terminal which is connected to the main battery cable lug, and supplies the fuse panel and the rest of the car. I don't know what the small brown wire does, so I'd check that before you power up, likewise the red wire.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=1012.0;attach=5055;image)
Update from past few days. Made progress with the wiring, sorted out the starter wiring and got the ignition light. Cranked the engine once, wouldn't crank again. Discovered a botched starter solenoid, so the new one is on its way.
Currently have pilot lamps, wipers and rear tail lamps working. However indicators and main lights are not.
Tried a lot if things, multimeter says there's no voltage coming to either the blue and white or the blue and red lamp wires. I read on tmf that the starter solenoid needs to be hooked up for a complete circuit, and its currently off the car along with the starter motor. However I do have a solenoid hooked up, as per the older starter style.....
Any ideas?
As far as time goes, I have two weeks to:
Finish the wiring
Get the roll cage and weld it in
Fit shifter
Weld in seat captive nuts and install seats
Properly install fuel tank
Throw carbs on, sort out timing, run engine
Prep and paint doors bonnet and boot lid
Tighten everything, get it aligned
Bleed brakes
Glass in
Probably missing some things.....will be an interesting two weeks. I'm aiming to have all the prep work done, shifter in and cage + seat subframes in by the start of next week
Is it a stock harness? I have a 60 I could look and see how stuff is hooked up I put in a new harness. your car if a 1960 would not have had a solenoid but a stater button (I think) when new And one 6 or 8 gauge size wire to the always hot side of button, if using a solenoid just make sure that wire is on the always hot side to power up everything. The harness gets a little weird with all the bullet connectors around the speedo area and switch plate took me a bit to sort it all out as I had nothing to go by.
The two fuse block needs to be right as well it's very easy to get a wire on the wrong spade. Also the voltage regulator matters. I also found a headlight ground that was incorrect in my new harness it went nowhere and I had to make my own.
I'd be happy to take pictures if you need.
Jeff
Yes, stock harness. Pictures would be very useful!
Specifically the fuse box,starter button and voltage regulator.
I have the regulator, but it's an alternator harness, so I'm not sure if it's needed. I have a couple of green wires that are in the region of the regulator and are not connected to anything.
Thanks
If the harness is a "conversion" harness, then there is no place for the voltage regulator.
I have some pictures from a 64 wagon with floor start, but it sounds like you have worked around that with a starter solenoid.
Terry
I just looked and I am not sure my photos would be of much help, many of the colors on the braided coverings are washed out and there were a few additions over the years with extra wires.
https://goo.gl/photos/f4FDeAKaMUuSA5AT9 (https://goo.gl/photos/f4FDeAKaMUuSA5AT9)
https://goo.gl/photos/kSFPxJhi5ofT8Qa6A (https://goo.gl/photos/kSFPxJhi5ofT8Qa6A)
I will get you some pictures tomorrow. since my harness is new the colors should be good I'll get the best detail I can.
Thanks Jeff, those would come in handy.
My bonnet is pretty banged up, so I was faced with the choice of either trying to salvage it or replacing it. I chose to try to save it with a **** ton of filler. It doesn't seem to be working, I've been filling and sanding for the past two days, and it's got to the point where the filler is so thick that its started cracking as I sand , leaving craters.
It's just awful. I know the car is far from a perfect restore, but there has been a lot of care that's gone in to it, and it seems a shame to throw on this botch bondo bonnet. 75% of the front face is solid filler in an attempt to smoothen it out.
I'll try to give it one last go tomorrow, or it's going to have to be a new one.
Additionally, minispares didn't dispatch my order, it got delayed, so it's going to be sent on Monday. Things aren't looking optimistic at the moment.
My solenoid should be here on Tuesday, so the wiring should be finished off. Maybe glass in?
In other news, I have the shifter, roll cage and harness bar in. I used the remote to rod change conversion bracket from 7, didn't come with instructions as promised, but it was pretty self explanatory. A word of advice, if anyone does do this, it's a lot easier with the exhaust off. If not, it's a real head ache, especially that damn bolt linking shifter to the block. I had to pull the headers off, box bracket off, wrestling, reinstall all.
Remember when I said replace the bonnet or you'd be sanding for days...
your filler should not be cracking or coming off are you giving the metal good tooth with 36 or 24 grit first?
Here are some wiring pics the pic name is the area if you can't tell.
more
last pic the brown wire is main power going to floor switch others are headlight dip.
Jeff these are awesome. Thanks, I'll let you know how it goes
That helped a lot! I now have indicators working, I didn't have that silver bullet looking thing connected.
Still no high beams, I'm going to wait for the solenoid to arrive before I mess around any more
Jeff, how does your horn button connect up? I have the physical horn hooked up like yours, and I have a single purple and black wire unconnected on the other end. How does that connect to the button on the steering column?
My indicator stalk doesn't have any wires for a horn
On mine the horn button just provides ground for the horn through the column.
The horn ground side connects to a brown wire with black trace that goes to a wiper/brush contact that rides on a copper ring on the column the copper ring has a wire the goes to a contact the horn button hits to provide ground. Pulled the shroud for some pics.
If you need any detail in other areas let me know. Your headlights should be really close to working you have power and low beam so your down to one wire or a dip switch issue.
the wire on mine might be purpleish and black i can't really tell.
the horn wire + side is usually purple
Thanks for those.
Dan and I did some fiddling, he found that pin 6 should have been connected to the u/w wire not left open as per wiring diagram.
All working now 4.gif
As for the horn. I too have a brown ground wire connected to the stalk, that grounds out on the steering column. That wire is connected to a brown and black wire on the harness.
I have an open purple and blue wire from the harness that's not connected to anything. I assume that's the horn trigger? Can't find what to hook that to....
out of the two wires..one side of horn gets power wherever the other end of that wire goes it needs to be hooked to power, other side of horn gets grounded through stalk wiring when button is pushed. Thats it two wires one power and one momentary ground through the button.
So if you have the stalk wire hooked up to the horn then you need to power the other one any way that you can mine is powered all the time I think.
I can try and trace down where my horn is powered from if you need. But really any power source will work its the ground side that triggers it through the stalk.
Thought I'd update.
Been having issues with the starter, replaced the solenoid, ran through the wiring numerous times, still nothing. Pulled the starter apart when it wouldn't run with a direct power source. Found a melted wire in its heart. So, I'm not sure how this happened. It half cranked once and never again, I never tried it without a relay, following what everyone on the internet advised. I've since been using the wing mounted solenoid setup, as per the old car. I can only assume the wire was already damaged, and finally broke. Bad wiring would have blown the ignition switch, not an internal wire in the starter.
Anyway, got a replacement coming. Boot lid is pretty much prepped, doors too. Brake hoses are done too, and fuel tank is in.
I've done the stub stack mod as shown by Dan in the diy, and I'll drop the carbs in soon, along with the remaining gauges.
Monday will aim to start the engine, and finish rear wheel bearings.
I've run out of time, sadly. So Dan will finish what's left, and I'll either return for the car or trailer it back.
Bummer on running out of time and the starter. But man you did a hell of a lot in a short time i'm impressed. I did trace down my horn wires and take pics if you need? But im guessing thats the least of your worries right now. It seems like Dan won't have too much to finish it up. All the major stuff is done right?
Yes please Jeff pics would be good.
I'm trying to tap the water temp sender. It's a 5/8 tap which I bought, but the tap won't fit a standard tap wrench. Fastenal is the only one who stocks the wrench, for nearly $50. Additionally the drill bit required is a 37/64, and that, only stocked by fastenal is over $30.
Can I botch it for less using a 1/2 and an adjustable wrench?
And yes, nearly all the major stuff is done. Should be running by the time I leave
Quote from: Vikram on August 19, 2016, 01:38:27 PM
I'm trying to tap the water temp sender. It's a 5/8 tap which I bought, but the tap won't fit a standard tap wrench. Fastenal is the only one who stocks the wrench, for nearly $50. Additionally the drill bit required is a 37/64, and that, only stocked by fastenal is over $30.
Can I botch it for less using a 1/2 and an adjustable wrench?
Yes, especially if you're going into aluminum.....is it 5/8 fine thread or a pipe thread? You need to know before you make a hole......just make sure you keep the tap square to the hole as you turn it. Don't let it wobble around. No square sockets in the tool box?
It's nf-18, so fine.I was thinking of some sort of socket arrangement
The local hardware store will probably have square sockets.....that or it you have a Northern Tool nearby.....
Well shit.
So 1/2 wasn't working, impossible to tap. Something in the back of my mind said just buy the 37/64, but I didn't. Had to go out again to try and buy it, and of course fastenal was closed. Got a 9/16 instead, and it tapped, with a bit of effort.
The blank for the temp sender is decently sized, so it should go right in the middle. So I put the pilot hole in a region with plenty of meat around it. Of course, when I upped the size, the larger hole got a lot closer to the walls. But it's a temp sender, no stress on it.
I assume there should have been empty space that you drill into if located properly, but since mine was lower there was a wall at the back for the bottom half of the hole.
No biggie, whatever, tapped it. Can't tap all the way because tap hits that wall after a certain depth. But I've got a lot of turns on it, plenty of thread.
Time to install the sensor, tighten it up,feels good. Meet resistance as it gets tighter. Hey keep going!
Resistance eases up, must have been debris. Remove sender to check, sender is in two pieces. I tightened it too hard against the wall, and broke it. Now I need another sender.
My genius amazes me sometimes 50.gif
Do you have pics of where you drilled?
Same place as on red car. Hope it's right..
You drilled a little low on the spot for it, and sounds like you're hitting the bottom of the water jacket on the inside then? The problem now is, without being able to properly torque down the sending unit, it will leak coolant. And, it has to be torqued rather than having some kind of adhesive to stop the leak, because it must ground to the block. So, you may have to get creative.
Yeah sounds right. I might be able to use a spacer to sort it out. Does them temp sender have to be mini specific? If not I'll try to find something local, that's shorter
It's mini specific to match that gauge.
This will save you, the 3/8 npt will screw into the 5/8 18 and snug up since it's tapered.
http://cppdiesel.com/adapter-mechanical-temperature-5-8-18-unf-to-3-8-npt-aluminum/
Awesome, I was thinking of something along those lines. I've got part numbers for the senders, will try and see if I can find one tomorrow
Yep that's what you need!
Found the sender, will be at the parts store tomorrow. I'm pretty sure that it's going to be the same 5/8 thread, so I need to think of some sort of spacer. I can't find a compatible sender with a smaller thread
Compared how my speedo cable was seated to the red car, decided to unscrew it and re fit it. As I did inspected the end the fitting came away in two pieces. I'm guessing it definitely shouldn't do this, damn it. I didn't apply any pressure or test it in any way and it even unscrewed easily from the block.
Can I crimp it or something?
I would try crimping it with a vice. Thats how they are done during manufacture. Dont forget to put that stupid nut on though...
There's a stupid nut?
Are there witness marks on the cable housing so you know where to crimp it? The amount sticking out is somewhat important....... he's talking about the one in your hand.
New cables are pretty cheap.
Yeah, I'd get a replacement, but I've already got it fitted in the dash end which was a pain, and it slows other stuff down.
I have another incorrect cable, that I can use as reference for the length
Crimped it hard, not going anywhere. Properly screwed it in all the way. I had it at an angle previously
Good, I didn't want to install that lol.
Picked up the sender, looks correct. It's a 5/8-18 thread, as before. So I need something that is a male 5/8 to female 5/8, might have to be two bushings. I suppose just a nut would work too. Couldn't find anything at the auto parts store or Lowe's. Napa was closed, so I'll try them first thing tomorrow, they're probably my best bet.
My wheels will also be done today (finally) so I'll pick them up and get the tyres fitted while I'm out tomorrow morning.
It pretty much has to be what jeff posted. The threaded object must be tight enough that coolant doesn't seap out.
yes what i posted is what you need and fairly common 3/8 npt male is basically 5/8 18 with a taper, the other end is 5/8 18 and will accept the sender.
Quote from: jeff10049 on August 21, 2016, 12:08:24 PM
yes what i posted is what you need and fairly common 3/8 npt male is basically 5/8 18 with a taper, the other end is 5/8 18 and will accept the sender.
Ohhh. Didn't know that.
Thank you
you could also get a 3/8 close nipple and a 3/8 female union at about any hardware store and see how well the union accepts the sender. That way you don't have to order something
Also I'll get the horn wire pics up today
ok no real need for pics I ohm'ed out my horn wires the brown with green trace at the horn goes to the bottom fuse of the fuse block. The brown with black trace at the horn goes to the horn button. Also brown black at the stalk.
Thanks Jeff.
So I went to Napa to see if I could get a fitting. They didn't have anything that would work, the 3/8npt would start, but wouldn't thread.
However Dan had a bunch of fittings in a bucket, and I found one with a female 5/8 end that I took to the store. While I was there, I though of just cutting off the end, and having a small spacer with a 5/8 thread.
So that's what I did. Seems to work. All its doing is just moving the sender out far enough so that it can be torqued down without hitting that wall. It still grounds on the block.
Will this work?
Well that's all from me, I leave tomorrow late morning.
Got the new starter in, engine now cranks nicely. So I think that's the wiring done.
New rear hubs and bearings on too, along with the spaced drum.
Picked up the new wheels from powder coating and got the tyres mounted.
Dan will bring it from 90% to 95% so that it's running and aligned. I'll trailer it back, and finish off the last few bits. Just in time for winter!
Anyway, it's been an awesome experience. I've learnt more in three months that two years at college.
Thank you to all you guys on the forum, your help has been invaluable. Everyone who I've met in person, Justin, Dave, Stan you've been really welcoming to the community.
This is by by far the best forum out there.
Last but not least, thanks Dan. Thanks for the opportunity,all your help and expertise, it's been amazing.
I guess minimania did one good thing in bring me here.
I haven't been particularly active in your build, but have checked your progress regularly. To say that I'm impressed wouldn't do you justice; I'm really impressed.
Even though Dan will do some of the finishing work on it is no reason for you to leave. You'll own the car for a while, right? You've made some friends, right? Well, since you've already established a login and the server already has some uploaded pics, you might as well stay. The internet can help bridge geographic gaps.
Keep participating within 'our' community - socially or advisory, I'm pretty sure you'll be welcomed.
Oh I have no intention of leaving, and I see my self owning the car for a long time. I just won't be local anymore.
That being said, if anyone does end up in my neck of the woods let me know! We can grab a drink, I'll be 21 by then lol
I'm glad you had the opportunity to come out and literally build your car. It's been a pleasure! You'll have a cool story to take with you for the rest of your life.
It has indeed been impressive to watch your progress!
The "community" on this forum is widely dispersed as well - all across the USA and into Europe as well. You are in good company and always a member in the community. Keep us posted on the progress even when you get your Mini back home.
Have a safe journey home! 77.gif
He's only going back to Michigan! ;D
Best of luck at school and finishing the build Vikram. You accomplished quite a bit in a short amount of time. There is always next summer, maybe you can build another mini project then . ;D
Thank you for the kind words. I'm hoping to get it on the road by the end of the year, but probably actually drive it next year to avoid the snow.
Yea that should work maybe a copper washer between it and the block at some point. But if its sealed it's sealed leave it be.
Or run a 3/8 npt tap in the head at some point if needed for more thread engagment and buy a thing like I posted. But again if it's working I'd leave it be.
It's been fun watching the progress you got more done while at Dans than I did in 5 years.
Jeff
Vikram, where will you be located in Michigan? I'm on the Lake Michigan coast and there are at least 2 and I believe 3 classic minis in my local area. I don't drink but it might be fun to meet up some time.
September 9th I will be running the Press On Regardless TSD rally in upper Michigan with my classic mini.
I'm across the border into Ontario. If you ever want a slightly longer drive (to north of Toronto 71.gif), email and say you're comming!
Tim
I'm not in Michigan haha, Dave's got it mixed up. I'm in Troy, near Albany in NY
Got the gauges today Vikram - thanks! Hope I can do something for you someday too.....
Sorry for the mixup, for some reason I thought you were going to school in Detroit or something........
Great! I think there's a Troy in Michigan too haha
Got Vikram's gauges installed and ........they all work! It's like they were meant to go in there or something..... :-)
Finally got this thing running. After much fiddling with carbs, manifolds, linkages, cables, and a few other odds and ends. Not too much more to go.
I should add he's equipped with a specially designed throttle cable guide that feeds the cable through the firewall. For whatever reason the left side of his car didnt have the little guide piece that the cable end fits into. It was a pita.
Quote from: 94touring on October 16, 2016, 03:46:35 AM
Finally got this thing running. After much fiddling with carbs, manifolds, linkages, cables, and a few other odds and ends. Not too much more to go.
Maybe he'll come back at Xmas to pick it up?
I think Hugh will be picking it up. I'm excited to test drive it lol.
Quote from: 94touring on October 16, 2016, 04:03:28 AM
I should add he's equipped with a specially designed throttle cable guide that feeds the cable through the firewall. For whatever reason the left side of his car didnt have the little guide piece that the cable end fits into. It was a pita.
Might have fitted one of these cable guides through the firewall, t'would be easy.
(https://www.holden.co.uk/productimagesL/015_392.jpg)
www.holden.co.uk (https://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?sg=2&pgCode=017&sgName=Hardware&pgName=Fuel+Systems&agCode=0105&agName=Other+Carburettor+Accessories&pCode=015.392)
Mines similar but better.
Alright alright alright!
Yeah I see what you did with the throttle cable. Dan I'll let you know when those few parts are scheduled to arrive, once I know.
Could you take a video of one of your test drives, I'm pretty excited too.
Yep, I think we all would like to see a dash cam vid or something of this car moving under it's own power!
Vikram do you have a garage to park it in during the winter or will it have to sit outside?
I do not have a garage, I have access to a private parking lot. I've been looking into renting a garage with a few of my friends, but that's still in the works. I was considering just a building a shelter in the parking lot to keep the car protected.
Well, it wouldn't be the first Mini that spent it's winter outside (my 62 Cooper always did) and you know the body's in good shape and will handle it OK, but it does make it tough to work on it when it's freezing ass cold out!
Finally got this thing up and running enough to take for a test drive, albeit with no glass, doors, boot, or bonnet. The weight reduction and lack of wind resistance made it damn fast feeling, at least compared to my 998. Still some final touches to be made. Spent a lot of time fiddling with various odds n ends...like every brake fitting leaking fluid...thanks Vikram lol. Still some adjustments to be made since the rears lock up making it a sweet drift car. I probably drifted it into my driveway once I discovered this. Being left hand drive required cone filters rather than the filter mod I have on my car but looks really slick either way.
You need to shoot some video of this - in car camera type would be fun! 71.gif
Vikram, you going to come visit your car over the holidays?
Sorry about the brakes Dan,I know I messed the driver's side wheel hose .....
I'm also guessing the new discs need to be bed in before they are up to full stopping power?
Glad to hear its got decent performance; I'm hoping even with the other bits on it should still be pretty quick. I can't believe you managed to drive it in such cold weather with nothing on lol.
Sadly, I will not be visiting the car over winter break, but I can't wait to see it in person.
A video of you throwing it around would be pretty fun 77.gif
It was kinda humorous. Start to bleed them and the front right t fitting spews out fluid, which turned out to be bad copper washers. Get that in and notice a leak on the front left, which turned into a big fiasco. Kept loosing pressure so back to the rears to adjust drums and noted leaks on both hard lines where it meets the braided lines :-[ Also the left rear drum adjust knob was seized bad enough I ended up welding a bead on it to clamp with the vise grips. There was much cussing to be had that day.
Glad its fixed. Does it stop well, apart from trying to spin?
When I had it, there was a lot of air in the system, and I nearly rolled right through a red light. That's when I took it off the road for good lol.
Oh it stops. Just too much in the rear.
Got some glass in.
Cool, maybe next time I'm down your way or you're up here I can talk you into changing out the chrome strips on the front and rear windows on my car?
Looks like you still need to do some polish work on Vikram's car?
Nice!
Do you still have the registration sticker that was on the windshield? I can't tell from the photo
Sure thing Dave. Yeah needs buffed.
The tags were scraped off so hope you didn't need them!
Damn, one was an invalid inspection which is fine. The other was NY registration, which I do need. I hope I can get it reissued without too much difficulty. The car was registered incorrectly under 63 instead of 60, so that needs to be fixed anyway
No worries, seems like it can be done easily at the DMV (if that's ever possible), as it's just the windshield sticker
I saw the 63 as I scraped it off lol. Yeah sorry, figured it was expired or will be by time it's on the road.
Promised Vikram I'd have this done this week, of course that didn't happen. However I did solve the rear brakes locking up problem and also stumbled across his water pump going bad. I heard the belt squealing then noticed the pulley was wobbling something fierce. Turned out to be the water pump shaft.
I don't know if you've noticed or if it applies to Vikram's mini, but the small steel pulleys don't fit the new MSC Evo pumps.
Getting closer and closer...
Out of interest where did you put the adjustable regulator?
In the rear prior to the T. It's easy to access too.
Hey Vikram, how's school going? When is your semester over? We're done mid May.....
School's going pretty well, been a busy semester...I end in early May
Looking forward to driving the mini over the summer though, been thinking of what else I could do to it.
Vikram, How long is a piece of string?
Ha! John's right....there is no end, you've only just begun! ;D
Teaser pic
More teasers please....... 4.gif
Boot lid is done too but I need to spray your hinges and fish out the handles. I hope you have the boot cables too.
All the handles, gaskets and hinges should be together.
I don't think I have boot cables, I can always install those though.
Well the problem is the boot can't be opened easily without the cables but I'll put it on and you'll need to not open the lid fully till you get cables.
Vikram, are you coming to get it and driving it home?
Dan said something about you might be shipping it?
Yeah, I'll be careful with the lid.
I will be shipping the car back, although I do wish I could drive it back. It's probably the more sensible idea, given school and the fact that the car still has to be broken in.
Did you rebuild the engine? I thought you bought a used engine for it......unless by break in you just mean getting it sorted......
Yeah, getting it sorted, bedding the brakes etc..
It will need an alignment I assume too
Honestly you could drive it back. Things may break, but you could technically do it.
Perhaps, but the cost of gas and an overnight stop makes it basically the same as shipping it.
But the experience is priceless.
I can see both points, when I bought Buzz in Baltimore I bought him off a MiniMania ad, the seller sent me pics and we emailed back and forth, but I flew there from KC on a one way ticket. Had I not bought the car I would have bought another ticket home of course but we made a deal and I drove Buzz back to KC - 1100 miles - in two days. When you do that you really get to know the car you just bought, and by the time I got home to KC I had a substantial list of things that needed doing!
OTOH, Vikram's car has been completely rebuilt - by him - and he's a novice at this stuff, new engine, new suspension, new brakes, new everything - there are a LOT of opportunities for "continued learning", and doing it on the road with no support would be frustrating and potentially dangerous. 9.gif
But one hell of an adventure! 71.gif
I think in this situation it might be smart to have it shipped, then drive it in the 'hood while you get confidence in the car and could get help if it let you down......BruceK was in a similar situation when he imported Emily form England, I kept prodding him to drive it from the port in Houston to Dallas, but he decided to ship it. Probably was a good thing too considering the state of the alignment when it came off the boat.
I'd agree with Dave. I bought mine in Wichita, only 350 miles north of Dallas, but there was no way I felt comfortable driving it home. Thankfully the seller offered to trailer it down for me.
I've spent the last 8 months just driving close to home and have been compiling a list of this and that to do to it. Along with discovering the lack of tower bolts on the front subframe! Thanks Bruce. Hoping to soon have a complete and confident car to drive further distance.
My drive home in Buzz was full of trepidation, but the further I went the more confident I got that I would at least make it home. The internet is a wonderful resource - I have made friends all over the world thru my Mini affliction, and was able to take advantage of that on my trip, stopping in Columbus Ohio to meet up with some internet friends and use their shop the next morning for a couple of small tighten this adjust that's before I continued on - point being that there are Mini owners all over and I've never met one who wouldn't jump at the chance to help a fellow Mini driver in distress.
I agree that the experience would be amazing and I will definitely take the car on a road trip somewhere once I am comfortable with it and sure that the car is in good shape.
As Dave said, I am still a novice and even though the car is completely rebuilt I'm still a little wary. Dan has been finding quite a few little things like the brake fittings for example that I didn't do the best of jobs on, and I don't want to discover more of my mistakes somewhere between OK and NY....
I barely got the chance to drive it before I had to take it off the road, and as it is an old car I am sure there are some quirks to get used to.
A few weeks ensuring that the car is road worthy, will allow me to enjoy it for what will hopefully be a long time.
Doors be did.
Alright! That seems to have come together faster than expected. Nearly all done with painting right?
Flares, hinges, and I think that does it.
Last bits so I can do the final assembly on my end.
Nice work, counting the days now....looks like its going to be out of your hair pretty soon!
Some minor tuning left and the rest is on Vikram!
Runs and drives now? Brakes work too? ;D
Brakes work. Falls flat after about 45 so I need to tweak some things.
4500 rpm or 45 mph?
Looks very nice indeed!
Miles per the hour.
Car is headed your way! Your wheel never showed up so I'll ship it to you.
Vikram, post some pics when it gets home!
Will do!
I need to replace the spark plugs, initial research says ngk bp6es for a 1275. Does that sound right?
Thems the ones.
Well I'm sorry its taken me so long to update. I took delivery of the car a few weeks ago, and have since been putting the rest of the car together. Went through NYS inspection safely 2 weeks ago.
Since then, I have been dealing with an issue that I have been trying to fix myself but with little success.
When I got the car, it had a used set of spark plugs on it that Dan put on just to tune the car. I replaced them with NGK BP6es plugs about 10 days ago, and pulled the timing back a little. The car ran well, but after a week it suddenly spluttered and died on a hill. Fortunately, I was able to get out of the situation. Here is the problem:
The car struggles under acceleration frequently, especially uphill in third gear. The engine sounds like is spluttering, drops rpm and dies. The car also struggles to start back up.
After a while the car will fire up, and sound like its running fine only to die a few moments later.
Originally I thought it was a fuel pump/filter issue. I checked the pump, and can continuously hear it operating. I also checked both fuel filters and replaced the rubber hoses, and they were perfectly clean. It's also a brand new electric pump (Mr Gasket 42S).
Yesterday, I removed the new plugs I had recently installed and they were black.
So I guess its running too rich? I can see a small white puff from the exhaust when I rev it (I assume unburnt excess gas)
Could someone please advise me on how to tune the car? I have heard that it's 12 flats down from the flush starting point, is that correct?
That plug doesn't look that bad, it's not wet, is it?
I think you still have a fueling problem, you may have water in the fuel.....add a bottle of Heet at your next fill up (pour the Heet in first, then add the fuel to mix it up good) and see if it fixes your problem.....it won't run on water! ;D
No the plugs were not wet, just black and sooty. But they were brand new, so how can that be ok? I changed them out for another new set that I had, and the car ran better before developing the same problem.
How could water have gotten into the fuel? Is it possible that my pump is bad?
I wouldn't think the tank has water in it. White smoke though is a water issue. Does your oil cap have a milky film on it?
I would have to check the cap when I get home from work.
I may have made the white smoke a bigger deal than it is. It's just a small wispy puff that comes out of the exhaust when revved, no big clouds....
If it still puffs white after it's been running 5-10 minutes and warmed up, probably a head gasket about to go. Initially it ran too rich and had fouled plugs when I started tuning it. After leaning it out it was running pretty good. Timing was too retarded and was back firing through the carb. A few tweaks later it was running pretty good on those old spare plugs. If it's getting worse and white smoke, it's water in the tank or that head gasket.
The reason I suggested the Heet was that it's inexpensive and will rule that out as a problem.......the other thing to do is a compression test, carburation is the last thing you check.
Well after more investigating, I took the air filter and a good part of the carb apart. The jets were at different levels, so it's definitely a mixture issue.
The problem is I can barely turn either jets adjusting nuts,, one is impossible. I've taken the choke cable off too.
Any ideas?
Oil cap is clean so no head gasket issue.
Sounds like you need to take them off and give them a good cleaning......
They are pretty clean from when he went through them 8.gif. Plus the nuts moved fairly easily and I synched them with my fancy carb balancer. Did you happen to adjust the idle up or down by only adjusting one carb? Only thing hard on them was the choke, which took a good yank.
Are you trying to turn the wrong nut to adjust the mixture? Maybe find a good YouTube vid on how to adjust them and spend some time watching it till you're familiar - remember, like Dan says you can't just adjust one setting - first you have to disconnect the linkage between the carbs so you can set them individually......
Then make sure you're adjusting the right thing in the right sequence.
Oh, I didn't disconnect the carbs from each other. How should I do that? Is it the throttle linkages?
And yes, the carbs are very clean...and I am adjusting the right nut I'm following videos exactly and they make sense..
Answered that question myself. Disconnected the throttle springs and was able to turn the nuts more easily. Currently have them set at 12 flats below flush and will work from there. I need to refill the dash pot oil, is it true atf is a suitable lubricant?
Atf works.
ATF is a little thin, but will work.......so will good ol 20W50, which you should be running in the engine anyway.
Quote from: MiniDave on July 05, 2017, 02:57:10 PM
ATF is a little thin, but will work.......so will good ol 20W50, which you should be running in the engine anyway.
So basically Mini ATF :D
Sorry I haven't posted in a while. I've been spending time working through the car trying to solve this issue of the black sooty spark plugs that lead to eventual engine spluttering, stumbling and dying. I will systematically go through all the debugging I have done so far.
Spark:
NGK BP6ES and unballasted ignition coil.
Air:
I have new K & N conical air filters that are very clean. I remove them when tuning, so I'm pretty certain that air is not the issue.
Fuel:
I am using the Mr. Gasket 42S electric fuel pump that supplies fuel at 2-3.5 psi which I believe is correct for twin carbs. I can hear the pump performing fine and I use 2 fuel filters, a metal one immediately after the pump and a plastic one in the engine bay just before the carbs. The pump is located under the boot floor, just below the tank in the perfect position and it is well grounded. To be sure, I removed the rubber hose right after the metal filter, turned the ignition on and the pump operated perfectly, pumping fuel into a catch can I had on the ground. I then reconnected the hose, and removed the hose in the engine bay (just before the carb and after the plastic filter). Once again, the pump performed perfectly and fuel filled at a good rate into a catch can.
So I can assume that my fuel pump and filters are not the issue.
Carbs:
I have twin HS2 carbs that I rebuilt using the minispares overhaul kit. I have them set at a base of 12 flats below level, before I fine tune. For fine tuning, I get the car running and lift the pistons individually to see what happens to the idle. Currently the idle drops but levels out once the pistons return, indicating the car is slightly lean but I am trying to do so to keep the plugs from fouling. When I tune the car rich, the exhaust pops and there's a fine wisp of unburnt gas from the exhaust as expected.
Important: the pistons do seem to take a little too long to return, is that an issue? I assume this is down to the springs and the dashpot oil. The springs are grey and I use 20w50 as dashpot oil.
Timing:
I have not fiddled much with the timing, I only retarded it slightly after Dan's tuning. The car idles at around 1000 rpm, and fast idle is at 1500 rpm. The idle is perfectly smooth. I also have pointless electronic ignition.
Oil cap:
The underside is perfectly clean with no milky deposit indicating no head gasket issues.
The picture shows the plugs with the plug on the right being closest to the rad fan.
I have followed nearly every instruction on the internet down to a T yet I still have this frustrating issue. My car ends up being very unreliable because after a few days the plugs foul and the car dies. There is no indication of when the car will die, leaving me with little confidence in driving the car as it can cut out in a dangerous scenario.
Now, I only recently removed fuel hoses and tested the pump. Is it possible there was air in the lines earlier causing an issue? I can try running about now and seeing if its better, but I fear that this issue will just re-emerge....
Any and all help would be much appreciated!
Which needles are you running? Sounds like you need a different needle profile.....
Call 7Ent or Mini Mania and ask them for a recommendation for a needle to use - your engine is a stock SPi converted to carbs right?
Edit: 7 Ent says it should have either std "M" or lean "EB" needles with red springs
Interesting that the center 2 look the worst.....are you confident that the gasket seal is good between the head and the manifold? Are there any possible vacuum leaks? Are all the hoses connected correctly? No open vacuum lines anywhere?
I believe I have the standard M needles.
Yes, the engine is a stock 1275 spi to carb. Yesterday, I discovered that the main battery cable was shorting against the exhaust clamp. I'm guessing the heat from the exhaust took off the insulation. That caused the car to die as expected, so that may have been the problem? I have a new cable coming in that I will install much further away from the exhaust. But I feel that's just another issue that cropped up.
Also, I do have an open line coming up from the radiator side but I don't know if it is a vacuum line. I labeled a picture that I found online to help explain.
That is a crankcase breather line. The picture shown has both the timing cover breather and clutch cover breather. They get joined to that pipe which would then have on of the two ends of that 'Y' in the middle going to the throttle-body or carb.
You can let the timing cover breather vent to atmosphere with either one of those stubby filters on it or a hose looping down to the air stream just below the engine.
Alternately, you can plumb it into one of the carbs on the appropriate port - which is likely currently capped off on both of your carbs. I am not familiar with the best arrangement for with dual carbs. (My initial thoughts are to put a 'T' fitting in the line and take it to both carbs to keep them balanced.)
On the SPI I converted to carb, I took it into the carb. I reused the same pipe shown in the picture and capped off the extra branch of the 'Y' in the middle of the pipe.
So I believe I've finally found the issue. While adjusting the nuts on the back of the carb for fuel mixture, I noticed that the jets are not moving linearly up and down and in fact one of the jets moves and I need to push it all the way up to seat it properly.
I assume they aren't holding their tune as a result and are slipping further out, richening the mixture and fouling the plugs. I did rebuilt these carbs with new jets, so maybe I did something wrong along the way.
My plan is to pull them off and try and fix them. Alternatively I could try and trade them for a single hif 44 or something.
Man I wish I left it as the spi it came as sometimes!
That would do it. Time to pull them off and see what might have gone wrong.
The jets only move when you pull the choke, but you're right they should move freely. Glad you found the issue.....check to see if they got bent somehow.
A single carb does have it's advantages, nothing to synchronize, only one rebuild kit needed etc.....
Out of interest does anyone have a spare single hif 44 with a manifold/have interest in my twin 1 1/4 su's with the manifold?
I might be able to help, let me check my stash o stuff......probably tomorrow before I can look, I have to work today.
Keep your twins around until you REALLY know the HIF is the solution....
Fitting an HIF can be a pain with some firewall and engine mountings. angles and space. Clearances and adjustments.
Just a thought.
I've decided that I'm going to sell my twin su's and replace them with something different. While at it, I figured I wanted to try something a little different to make it interesting. I'd ideally like to fit a weber 40 or 45 dcoe. I am aware that with the long manifolds, these carbs need bulkhead modifications. I also know that there is a "swan" intake manifold that doesn't require the mods, but restricts flow to the point where it might not be worth it.
I have also seen short straight 2.75" manifolds that also do not require mods.
I was wondering if anyone had ever tried MG weber intakes on minis? I assume they would fit, they look short and are a lot cheaper!
I should mention that I do not have a central speedo, so I do have more room to play with.....
I know its easier to go with the hif44 and would probably get the same power, but I'm intrigued by webers and love the sound....
Any thoughts?
Tuning the Webers gets tricky and can become expensive in buying a variety of jet sizes.
I had a 1275 in a panel van that arrived with a 32/36 DGV Weber down draft on it. The jetting was the factory jetting that all the Mini suppliers selling the kit leave it with. It was WAY too rich for the car. The 32/36 DGV has 4 jets to change in tuning it plus potentially changing the venturies.
Once tuned, they stay in tune. But they never arrive even close to properly tuned. I searched all over the web trying to find where anyone had posted their jet selections once they got theirs tuned and nobody had. They all cheered having found the right setup for their car, but never said what those setups were.
I got a basic tuning kit with a selection of jets for it, but ended up changing to an HIF44 instead.
The same kit that works on a 1275 Midget/Sprite should work perfectly, other than modifying the bulkhead.
I have a friend who put one on his 1500 Midget and it really works well, and it gave a bit of a bump in power with the 2nd barrel, but he used the downdraft - not the sidedraft - I don't know if you have the hood clearance for it.....you may, I just don't know. But, be careful - there are some Chinese knockoffs of Webers making the rounds and they are simply shit. See if you can find a kit from Pierce Manifolds, they sell the real ones.
Here's the Midget 1275 downdraft kit from Peirce.... http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/P4-004-ECON.html (http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/P4-004-ECON.html) supposedly their stuff will have the correct jets - my buddy didn't have to do a thing to his....it ran perfectly right out of the box, good thing too as he's one who would get frustrated if it didn't and he had to change a bunch of jets.
No question the hif44 is a simpler install, but you still have to come up with the right needle, which shouldn't be difficult. The Hif44 is simple to tune, too.
You might check the Facebook British parts page, I think I saw one for sale on there the other day.....might have been for the 1500 tho.
Thanks for the information. I also heard that mini's need the carb at an angle to account for the floats, is that true?
Dave thank you for that facebook page, I never knew about it! I found the weber on there, but as you said its for the 1500. There's a nice cannon manifold for a 1275 that I might pick up though.... I'll be posting my carbs on that fb page tomorrow, so if anyone is interested in buying them please let me know!
As for tuning issues, I'm struggling with my twins su's so that doesn't concern me too much. Would you recommend the 40/45 dcoe over the 32/36 DGV (cheaper)?
I think the 40 is too big for a stock 1275, the 32/36 will work better, and if Michael Playle had one on one of his cars then they must fit under the hood OK.
Ok, I heard something similar.
Whats the difference between this:
http://www.piercemanifolds.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=P4-004
and the one you sent? The carb body looks a little different
Hmmmm.....not sure. Linkage maybe?
You can call and ask them.......
Edit: called and asked - Econ is Chinese made carb - avoid!
The DGV kit as sold by several of the Mini parts suppliers does indeed fit under the bonnet just fine. The kit should be complete with the manifold and carb. You may be able to reuse your existing choke cable and accelerometer cable depending on their lengths and routing.
Just be sure the DGV you get is manual choke versus electric choke.
Edit:
If you go with the DGV, let me know. I still have the tuning book and jets that I can make you a deal on.
Thanks a lot for that Michael, I would definitely be interested in those parts if I did buy it...
I cant help but be tempted by a DCOE. After more research there's a mix of people who say that the 40 is perfect for a mild 1275, some say the chokes are too small and to go for a 45, and there are those who say its simply too much carb in the first place. I feel like its trial and error and its down to whoever can get it working well.
Do the DGVs sounds as good as DCOEs? By the looks of it the DCOEs are a little easier to adjust/tune? I'm really not after a power bump, just something new that I can hopefully tune into shape, and that sounds the business.
The DGV fits the car without modifying the bulkhead, as for sound it's probably not the same as the sidedraft carb pointing right at your face......based on driving a car with a single Hif, K&N filter and no insulation behind the instruments - it was loud as hell!
It is hard for me to say about the DGV I had as it was so rich it kept stumbling and fouling/flooding out. Trying to drive 50+ mph for more than 5 to 10 minutes and it would bog down, stumble and die out. Put dry plugs in and it would fire back up and run reasonably for about another 15 minutes, then repeat the stumble and die. The new plugs would be black, sooty and wet, reeking of fuel.
I would say it was a bit louder than a stock SU with proper air box. Perhaps just a little softer than a SU with K&N cone filter, but not as loud as a DCOE is going to be.
I just decided to go with changing back to a SU (HIF6/HIF44) with an appropriate needle versus all the "trial and error" of tuning the DGV.
Well it's certainly taken me long enough, but it's been tough with school and having to work on the car in a parking lot. But enough excuses.
I'll be posting pictures soon, but to cut a long story short I sold my SUs and now have a weber 45 dcoe (got a good deal). I've spent the last few months making it fit without cutting the firewall and without using a swan-neck manifold. I've done so by using the maniflow 2.75" inlet manifold and a set of short trumpets and hi-flow mesh filters. I understand that using shorter velocity stacks cuts down on lower end torque so I'm using 34mm chokes instead of the advised 35mm to compensate.
I re-jetted the carb to these specs using Vizard's book:
Chokes 34mm
Main jet 150
Air corrector 180
Emulsion tube F2
Pump jet 40
Idle 50F2
Aux vent 4.5
I'm very nearly there, the carb fits in the car without filters, but with them on it just touches the firewall. I really don't want to run without filters and I also don't want to run the car with the filters rubbing against the firewall as they will be destroyed in weeks.
It's so close that I think if I use an adjustable engine steady and tilt the engine forward a bit, all will be well. What do you think of this? Does anyone have a spare adjustable engine steady, I know minispares has a cheapish one and KAD has a really expensive one...
The MiniSpares cheap one is exactly that.....cheaply done, it would probably work just fine but I found a much better one (still spendy) at 7Ent, but I think it was probably about the same cost as the one from KAD now that I look at it.
I think tilting the engine forward a bit will work fine.
I may have a spare, let me dig around in my spare parts - if I have the cheapy MS one you can have it, I owe you one for the instruments you gave me. Some of the factory steady "bones" were longer too, I may have one of those also......lemme look.
That sound's great, thank you. Will I need to adjust my floats?
I doubt it, you're not moving it much......
Bit the bullet and got the road version of the adjustable engine steady from KAD. It's a really high quality part and worth every penny. As a result the weber is in with filters and all without touching the bulkhead (just).
I tried firing my car today, no luck. I have fuel going to the weber an I can crank the engine no problem. I pulled a spark lead off and cannot see a spark. How do I go about checking my ignition coil?
You had a cluster of wires on the inner wing and one of the connections was touchy. Make sure they're all tight first. One of them kills the ignition and had a large spade on it.
So I ended up buying a new ignition coil (unballasted 12V) after I confirmed that the old coil was getting voltage. After installing that and a little fiddling, I got a spark. The engine eventually fired and idled for about 10 seconds before it died, this happened consistently. It would fire seemingly easily, but die soon after. After multiple attempts, a small cloud of white smoke would puff out of the velocity stacks (I think this is fuel vapor and certainly smelt like it).
As a reminder, I am running a Weber 45 with electronic ignition, new spark plugs and a 2-2.5 psi electric fuel pump. I have confirmed that fuel pumps out at a consistent rate into a jerry can.
What could be the issue? The weber is mounted at a slight angle from true horizontal so maybe floats? Or is it fuel mixture (how would I adjust this)? Timing? All of the above?
If it starts and runs for 10 sec then dies, it sure sounds like it's running out of fuel.
How long has it been sitting? Modern fuel tends to start breaking down and going "gummy" after sitting for a couple of weeks or so. It may have clogged some of the ports/jets of the carb.
The fuel is definitely old, I did not realise that it would be an issue .
But my timing is definitely pulled back, I have heard Webers need 12 degrees and I am probably at 9.
That might be the issue.
But in addition could it be the level of my floats as well?
It's not the timing, it's sounds like a fuel issue - like maybe the float valve could be stuck open just enough to let a dribble of fuel in, but not enough to keep the engine running, each time you shut it off residual pressure fills the float chamber enough that the engine can run, but not enough to keep up, especially when cold and on the choke.
That's my guess
Have you ever had it running successfully on the weber?
Nope, never had it running smoothly. First time breaking it in.
Drained the tank and put new gas in.
Pulled off the top to look at the floats. Looking inside the weber you can see the different levels of gas inside the two chambers due to the angle of the carb.
Do I need to adjust the floats to account for this?
Steve Gibbs, coopertune on minimania, Does a lot with weber carbs. You might try emailing him for help.
jlgibbsrealtor@aol.com
Thank you, I reached out to him.
Is the uneven fuel level going to be an issue?
If the rear chamber is the primary side of the carb, that will definitely be an issue, there is not enough fuel in there to keep it running from the look of it.
To fix this would I need to bend the rear float down to account for the lower fuel level?
Or is the only option to have the carb perfectly level?
I am not familiar with the Weber side-draft carbs; however, the DGV I fiddled with a bit on the green Van had a similar looking float chamber. There was only one fuel inlet into the chamber and the floats were joined. That would mean whichever side was higher would cut off fuel entering both sides.
As much angle as appears to be present in the picture (may be an optical illusion), attempting to offset the floats may not be enough to compensate as the front chamber looks like it would end up flooding/overflowing.
Most Weber side-draft installations I have seen pictures of seem to use a manifold that gets the carb fairly level.
In addition to posting on this forum, I posted on TMF.
Turns out it is just one float chamber and that the angle should not be an issue. I might have to adjust the floats overall to ensure that the needle is closing.
I was also advised to run with the top inspection cover off to see if the pump jets are working? Is this safe/good advice?
Lastly, they suggested that my timing was way off and to use a bulb over the ignition coil to set this. Anyone how I would go about doing this?
They are recommending you perform a "Static Timing" on it. do a google search of "Static Timing" to get several good articles and videos describing the procedure.
Running the engine stationary with the inspection cover off the carb has some risk. I do not know enough to say how much risk.
So it turned out to be the floats. I filled the bowl full, disconnected the fuel pump and tried to fire it. Started right up. So I adjusted the float and now it runs on its own just fine. Throttle response is good and smooth.
However it does have a couple of issues. It's backfiring through the carb and popping loudly, and does have quite a high idle.
Is this now a timing issue/running too lean?
Just rechecked the floats, and raised them a little to ensure that its not overfueling. Advanced the timing, and the backfire through the carbs has stopped. But the idle is crazy high something like 3-4k. Vacuum leak between the carb and manifold? Im using misab plates but Ive heard overtightening it can pop the seal out. Might have to pull the carbs off and investigate. Thoughts?
Pulled the carb off again, loosened the bolts for the Misab plates between the carb and the inlet manifold. Torqued them down less and ensured that there was a good seal. Once back on the car the idle is still ridiculous. I'm pretty sure it's not an air leak.
When the car was running, I shut off the fuel pump and the revs came down until it finally died when the bowl was empty. So I think it's an overfueling issue? Maybe I adjusted the floats to allow too much gas into the carb and it's just bypassing the jets and raining down the barrels?
I really don't know. Will try adjusting the floats tomorrow.
Is there an idle adjust? Because you're getting too much air. Too much fuel would flood it and it would die never to start again till the plugs are cleaned or replaced.
There is an idle adjust but it's not enough to drop the idle by that much.
Where could the air leak be from? Inlet manifold to the head? I'm pretty sure it's not between the carb and the inlet manifold.
The vacuum line from the distributor is open, could that be an issue?
Trick I've always seen is to spray carb cleaner around seals and vacuum lines. If the idle increases you have a leak.
Vacuum line for the distributor will contribute significantly if not capped off at the carb or connected to the distributor.
So should I just block it off directly at the distributor? Webers don't work well with vacuum advance
I also just realised something. My crank case breather line is wide open, couldn't this be a huge source for a vacuum leak? Should I connect it to the timing cover breather which is currently blocked off?
Crank case breathers need not be hooked up. I intend to put a crank case filter on mine to keep things cleaner. Anything on your carbs/webers not being used should be capped.
There should be no open lines into the carb.
If the carb has a port for a distributor vacuum advance line and the distributor does not have a vacuum advance (or running it disconnected), it should ideally be capped at the carb. The same goes for breather lines.
Your block should be allowed to "breathe" in some manner - timing cover breather, clutch cover breather, or valve cover breather. These are either connected to the carb (sometimes via a charcoal canister) or vented to atmosphere via hose to under the car or one of the small "filters" attached to the breather.
Ok, I understand.
There are currently no open lines into the carb. The inlet manifold does not have any ports for vacuum advance. Only the distributor has an outlet nipple for vacuum advance which is currently open. There is one large hole above the right velocity stack on the weber which is open, is this ok?
I will leave the breather open. So maybe a leak at the exhaust manifold gasket? I'm afraid of using a carb cleaner to test the leak due to the fire hazard, I've heard propane is safer?
Propane goes boom >:(
Starter spray for engines or carb cleaner is what you want.
Put your finger over these open ports and see what happens.
No luck.
I put my hand over the opening above the velocity stack and it died, I think it's a breather that needs to stay open.
Covered the vacuum opening on dizzy, no difference. Removed the throttle linkage to ensure the throttle wasn't sticking, no difference. Advanced and retarded the timing, it either would overly backfire through carbs or not start, when it did it was back to the same issue. Really torqued down head studs on inlet manifold to ensure no leak, no difference.
The thing just climbs and climbs till 4K every time, some times instantly sometimes it hovers around 1.5k before shooting up. I'm completely lost.
I've attached pictures of what's going on.
What about those huge gaps between the webber and the maniflold that aren't clamping the gasket between them?
That's because of the misab plates. There's an o ring either side, so it looks like the gap but it's actually good seal.
I'd be spraying fluid there.
Make sure you are following WEBER specific tuning instructions on the carb. They have their own set of rules from what I understood when I put one on my R22 in my toyota pickup.
Agree with the carb cleaner. I sprayed it all around when I did the weber on my truck engine just to make sure cause at first it ran horribly. But then I followed the exact tuning directions and now you can barely hear it running its so smooth.
As suggested by gr8kornholio, follow the Weber tuning instructions carefully. It looks as though it is also a manual choke carb, so make sure the choke is not holding open as that will make it over-rev like you are discribing.
So it was a combination of a few small things that created the problem. Timing was too advanced and the linkage was holding the throttle open a little bit. The car now idled very roughly at around 1500 rpm, it backfires through the carb a lot. The spark plugs are very sooty and slightly wet.
I think I need to change the idle jet.
Back firing through the carb is retarded timing. Get a timing l8hht and reset it.
I've got a light but what to I use as TDC? Don't see any reference marks...
If there are no "teeth" at the timing cover, then you will have to use the marks on the flywheel - visible through the little access cover by using a mirror.
The timing cover end usually has a small set of teeth at the front just above the crank damper and the crank damper will have a notch in the rim of the engine side of the belt slot. The uppermost tooth point is 0* TDC, with each point being 4* advance.
The flywheel end has a single pointer on the case and a set of marked lines on the flywheel. I believe 0* TDC is marked with a "1/4" and subsequent lines have numerical marks such as 5* and 10*. I seem to recall there being individual lines for 0* through about 15* BTDC.
You can find TDC......take out the no 1 plug and use a pencil or similar. Put the car in 4th gear and roll it forward slowly till the pencil comes all the way up. Move it back til the pencil starts to move down and make a temporary mark on the pulley, move it forward till the pencil starts to move down again and make another temp mark....half was between these marks is pretty close to TDC.
If your flywheel cover has a removable cover at the top, you can open than and look for the marks on the flywheel too. the 1/4 is TDC.....
Mplayle and I on the same page!
Thanks for the replies. I do see teeth but I didn't know how to make use of them!
And Dave, thanks for the TDC method, that was going to be my last resort.
That being said, by timing is definitely too far retarded. I need to advance it but that results in the very high idle. After some reading, I believe I need to drop my idle jet as per my cylinder size which should be a 40, but I'm at a 50. I'm thinking of picking up a number of jets to troubleshoot.
The jet may need to be changed but you should be able to turn the mix screw in enough to have it run ok.
It really sounds like your throttle plates are open too far this will flood the engine and make the plugs wet.
Is the linkage on the carb in a bind?
Or you have an air leak somewhere.
The engine won't t go to 4k or even 2k rpm without air.
Hi guys,
The issue is still persisting, and I have no idea what's going on. I dropped an idle jet size, the timing is in the correct region and it's not backfiring but the idle is still at the redline.
I took a video looking down the barrel of the carbs to ensure that the throttle is not sticking open, and it's not. I used tape to seal the gap between the intake manifold and carb to temporarily see if that was where the airleak was, but that made no difference still idling at redline.
It has to be an airleak and it must be a massive one, but I don't know where it is. I am afraid to use carb cleaner to find the issue because that will drive the rpm even higher and its already at the redline. I have a bad rocker cover gasket, could that be it?
What on earth is going on....any advice would be appreciated. I have attached the video.
Vikram, I would take the entire intake manifold and carb assembly off the car and look it over carefully - you're missed something somewhere. I know this is frustrating as hell, but when you find it you'll be both relieved and surprised.....
To answer your question, no I can't imagine the valve cover gasket causing this issue.
I have taken the carb off numerous times, but I will take it off once more and closely examine it. I'll go through it with the manual and hopefully something will come up...
Take the intake off with the carb.....
I have to take the intake off the carb as it is, due to the space restriction. I've got some new gaskets on the way along with studs and washers, just to be sure everything is tied down properly. Will install those and take it from there.
Is there a way for you to set everything back to zero?
In that I mean how it came from the factory. Like the carb settings and maybe even the timing or other ignition settings. That was the information that came with the weber carb I put on my 22R in the toyota.
Maybe doing this could also alert you to something you are missing. Just a thought.
Resetting it back to factory would just involve changing the jets back to what it came with. I followed Vizard's exact jetting guide, so I don't see how it could be so far off to do what its doing.
I have tried pulling the timing back, but it just backfires out of the carb and runs poorly. Webers are supposed to run on slightly advanced timing, and that is what it's at.
As for missing components, I really haven't touched anything except for the jets, chokes and floats. When I pull the carbs off to redo the seals and gaskets, I will check everything once again.
It almost sounds like the choke is stuck on full and keeping the butterfly open enough to act like WOT.
Thank you Michael, that definitely seems like a potential issue especially after some research.
Here is a video I found of a weber 40 on a mini at idle:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5a1ViLGCbDI
and here is mine at "idle":
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKdYjpRmeMM&feature=youtu.be
It looks like mine is putting in the same amount of fuel as the first video when it had the throttle open. Since my throttle is not stuck, it really could be the choke. The choke does move freely, but that might not reflect what is actually happening on the inside. Should I be looking at anything in particular? I will open up the choke circuit tomorrow.
From those video clips, it definitely appears your throttle is stuck wide open. If you watch them, the one at proper idle clearly shows the butterfly valves closed except when he revs it. In yours, they appear always wide open.
Try disconnecting both the choke cable and throttle cable. This should allow the basic springs to return the choke and throttle to return/settle at their idle positions. Then look to see if the butterfly valves are closed. (Car does not need to be running.)
Take note of the linkage positions when in the idle positions. These need to be the positions when the choke and throttle cables are connected and in their "idle" positions as well.
I have not read the whole thread but spray the intake gasket to check for an air leak.
When the carb is removed and the idle screw backed off check to see that the butterfly's are completely closed, easy to do by holding it above your head and looking for light coming through them. If so they may have been installed incorrectly loosen the 4 screws and re tighten them with the butterfly's closed.
Thanks for all the replies, problem has been found.
It was as indeed all of you said earlier. I originally had the issue of the car dying on me, and I was compensating by adjust the idle speed screw that would hold the throttle open slightly. I had no idea that such a small opening would have such a large effect. Instead of adjusting the throttle, I should have adjusted the floats so that the bowl wouldn't keep emptying which was killing the engine.
Now that I have adjusted the floats and backed off the idle speed screw, the car does now idle but it's not a reliable consistent idle. The bowl is still emptying but at a slower rate, and I can keep it alive by blipping the throttle. I have pretty much run out of float adjustment, so I need a needle that allows fuel into the bowl at a faster rate, and that will fix the problem.
Thank you for all the help, and I'm a bit disappointed in myself for ruling out a previous issue that was never actually solved.
I don't think it is the float needle that regulates how quickly the float bowl is refilled (or rather kept filled). It is more the flow rate and pressure from the fuel pump.
What fuel pump are you using? If the original mechanical pump, it may not provide sufficient flow rate (gph) for the carb. Also make sure the fuel pump pressure is in the "ideal" range for the carb in use. Too much pressure and the float needle cannot close off the fuel when the float bowl is full and you get overflow or flooding. Too low a rate and the carb consumes the fuel faster than the bowl refills.
Example: SU (and some Weber) carbs require a low pressure pump (2.5 - 3.0 psi), but depending on the carb and engine may require a higher volume (gph) pump. The small Facet or Mr. Gasket electrical pumps (such as the Mr. Gasket 42S pump) give the correct pressure (2.5 - 3.0 psi allows the float needle to be able to close off the flow when full) and a high enough flow rate (42 gph) to quickly refill the bowl as needed.
The Mr. Gasket 42S was an ideal pump for the Weber 32/36 DGV carb sometimes used on Minis.
The 42S is the exact pump that I have on the car. The bowl is being drained faster than it is being refueled and I don't think I have enough travel in the floats to just reach the right amount.
Edit: the 42S has a flow rate of 28 gph apparently, 2-3.5 psi
Do you have an inline fuel pressure gauge? It was highly recommended when I switched my toyota 22r over to a weber.
No I do not have an inline pressure gauge or regulator. I'm going to call Pierce Manifolds and see if they have any advice.
Edit: After calling Pierce Manifolds, the tech said that the larger the needle and seat, the faster it would refill the bowl. He said that each increment in size would result in roughly a 30% change in flow rate. I currently have a 200 or 2.00 mm needle in the carb, and I have the option to go up to a 225,250 or 300.
Interesting. Looking up the 42S specs finds a mix of ratings. All sites show the 2.5 - 3.0 psi, but some list it as 28 gph and others as 42 gph.
Since the tech at Pierce indicates changing the float needle and seat size will change the fill rate, I would increase the needle and seat. I would recommend going larger than the minimum necessary to solve the problem, such as up to 300 versus the other two sizes.
I agree with Michael, going "too big" is not possible, as the float will rise and the seat will block the flow no matter which size you get.
I think you're on your way to solving this once and for all, and look how much you've learned! 4.gif
Great, 300 is on the way. Will update when its here
Got my new parts in today.
Removed the carb and exhaust manifold today, removed the old gasket along with the gummed up and worn studs. Replaced them with new Stainless Steel ones along with new nuts. For the gasket, I ordered 2; the conventional one and the reinforced turbo gasket. I installed the latter just to see how it performs as it is both thicker and looks a lot nicer. While that was all off, took the opportunity to clean the old oil off the back of the engine from the leaking rocker cover.
It was about to rain, so had to call it a day there. Tomorrow the new rocker cover gasket goes in along with the larger needle and seat for the weber. Won't be able to run it tomorrow as the rocker cover will be bedding in, so that will be on Friday. While its setting, the front of the engine will be cleaned, along with some much needed cable management. More to come...
Rocker cover bedding in? I sometimes let the glue set up for an hour or so.....BTW, I put a nice coating of grease on the side that faces the head, that way you can get it off again to retorque the head or do a valve adjustment without tearing the gasket.
What you're doing looks terrific.....I think you're on your way to getting it sorted now! 77.gif
I'm using the thick silicon gasket. I read on the mini forum to use rtv on the rocker cover and attach it to the gasket, but it needs a day to firmly adhere. I did hear the grease trick that you mentioned Dave, and I will definitely be doing that.
You don't need to with the silicone gasket....it won't stick to the head anyway.......
I bought one of those but they really only work with the stamped steel rocker covers like yours and I have a cast aluminum one on my car, so I haven't gotten to try it yet.
I believe my cover is plastic....I hope it works!
I've never seen a plastic one, maybe the later cars had them.
Engine is from a 93 rover, so I guess so.
Rocker cover was stamped steel, not plastic.
Turns out there was no gasket, just sealant between the cover and the head. New silicon gasket installed. Some wire management too. Firing it tomorrow.
Sealant instead of a gasket? I've seen that work ok between two very smooth surfaces, but not on one with a gap like on a valve cover!
You should definitely have fixed your oil leak with the silicone gasket!
Installed the new needle and seat, adjusted the floats. Car will now idle at 1.5 k rpm, however after blipping the throttle the revs will fall before climbing back up to 2k. It will idle at 2k for 15 seconds or so before eventually returning back down. Adjusted the throttle linkage to ensure that the butterflies were closing. Sprayed brake cleaner around the inlet manifold and the carb and the inlet manifold gasket and there was no noticeable change in rpm.
Revs nicely through, and the high spring return rate makes the rev fall quickly too. Sounds great.
I do have an overheating issue. I've fiddled with the timing and that seems to make no difference. Pumped the lower rad hose by hand and even ran it with the rad cap off, and its still over heating. The top rad hose gets hot after a while, so that means the thermostat is working. Dan installed a new water pump before it came up here, so I doubt that's the issue either.
No milky fluid on the rocker cover cap, so probably not head gasket. I was also running with a fan in front of the car, so there was some airflow. Thoughts on either of the 2 issues?
Here is the link for the video: https://youtu.be/eE7dfAFcKfE
(starts with a little difficulty, might need to advance the timing slightly)
Looks like you already have the aluminum radiator, so....
Are you sure it's overheating or is the gauge just reading hot? Could be incompatibility between your new gauge cluster and the old sender.
I'm using the 52mm aluminium rad off eBay so I shouldn't be having issues. If you remember, I broke my original sender in Dan's shop and I had to find a replacement locally. Now I'm not sure if that is the correct one and it might be reading hot. Engine does feel rather hot tho...
I'll get the proper sender in to be safe. I'll fiddle more with the idle, it's really close
If someone has one, those infra red/laser thermometers give a good indication of whether it's really hot, but if it's not pushing out water it's probably not overheating.
Well I don't recall it overheating when I initially got it driving on the road. I drove it a solid 5 miles with no issues.
Yeah its not boiling over or anything.
Had a 45F9 idle jet in the car, moved up to a 50F2 (vizard's recommendation) and then finally a 55F5. 50F2 definitely ran the best and had the smoothest idle.
I think I can hear what the problem is. I feel the float is too low such that on blipping the throttle, fuel is drained which causes the needle to open, fuel rushes in and holds the idle a little high. As the bowl empties and drains at the idle rate, the rpm's drop and returns to the lower idle speed. I think the needle is opening and closing too suddenly.
It's now dark outside, so will return to it tomorrow.
After some fidding, I believe I have it running well. Adjusted the floats, timing, idle speed screw and idle mixture screws to give the following:
Idle at 1500 rpm with throttles completely closed and advanced timing, after sustained idle it will drop to 1300 rpm eventually.
It is a little high because of the advanced timing, but it runs so much smoother and sounds far better. Even after major throttle application, the revs fall very quickly back down to the 1500 with no surging at all.
Is this ok? I will post a video with the exhaust note later today.
More fiddling results in this: https://youtu.be/1QkQv8OORFU
It running with the throttle cable disconnected to ensure nothing is being held open.
It's now at 1k but it does linger a bit at 1250 before it comes back down. This has all been at idle in neutral, I have no idea what is going to happen when I drive it under load.
I can hear the idle waver a little sometimes as the bowl empties, and gets refilled. It's not a major stumble or anything, just a waver.
I don't know if I'm reading into this too much because I've been adjusting it so much. I still feel it's not perfect.
It's also running rich, the exhaust pops a little bit.
Sounds like you are real close. A 1K idle is about right.
I've been reading Des Hammil's "How to Build and Power Tune Webers", and I've been reading up on the needle valve section. Here is a direct quote:
"If the needle valve is too large for the particular application, the valve will allow fresh fuel in very fast causing the float to rise and the needle valve to close but not fast enough to prevent fuel rising above the specified level and therefore giving a rich mixture. Sure, the level will drop again as the engine uses fuel but what you have here is a constantly altering fuel level in the float chamber (up and down over the optimum level) and that is not desirable."
This seems to exactly describe my symptoms; my rich mixture and the fluctuating level in the fuel bowl, affecting the idle slightly.
Just to get a better understanding, I put the 200 needle valve back in the car. The flow rate was not sufficient to keep the engine running at a low idle but it seems I was a little too ambitious with the 300 needle valve. The 225 or 250 will give a better result, I believe. Darn it! If this carb was at a level height, things would be a lot easier!
I will drive the car a very short distance across the parking lot and see what happens under load.
I tried a 250 needle between the 200 and 300, and I still have the issue. I've gone back to the 300 for now. The car will idle but when I blip the throttle it will fall back down to 1500 before it surges back up to 2500 and then finally comes back down to 1000 after 30 seconds.
It's struggling in the transition between the main and idle circuit, and I am unsure how to proceed.
This could be the emulsion tube they change when and how it transitions also the auxiliary venturi may be sending to strong of a signal near idle. I'd be tempted to throw an f11 tube in it and see what changes. That's about the complete opposite tube you have now and not necessarily a bad choice for a street driven mini.
That said.
Throttle stop screw is not in too far correct? The blades transition right off idle you really have to watch out for this on webbers crank it in just a little too far and totally screws you up on tuning.
Still acts like an air leak from your description I don't think you should have had to change the idle jet so much I feel like you're compensating for another problem like an air leak I know we have beat that to death but still, something doesn't seem right to me.
More than just tuning it should run ok on the setup you started with.
But you are getting it closer so maybe just keep tuning on it I dunno I wish I was nearby Id come to lend a hand and see for myself why you are fighting it so much. It could be that it's just a bitch to tune and you'll get to the bottom of it soon.
When the carb arrived, it came with a different emulsion tube, so I could throw that in and see what happens.
I called a couple of weber suppliers and asked for tech help and one of them may have said something very useful. He said that the idle speed screw needs to barely touch the throttle such that the butterflies are marginally open. If it is any more than that, the main circuit will kick in too early which is what might be happening on my car.
This seems to be exactly what you are saying Jeff. I know its not an airleak as I have sprayed fluid all around, and there is no change in engine speed.
I currently need that idle speed screw down more than what it should be otherwise the car dies. To counter this, he said to open the air bleed/bypass screw slightly which will increase the air in and therefore I can close the butterflies further, allowing the idle circuit to stay open.
That sounds like that could fix the issue, will try it and get back to you.
An SU HIF 44 is so much easier to tune right...not that it helps you any at this point. ::)
Good luck, you're learning every day, and so are some of us by reading your posts, so keep it up!
It is indeed interesting to read a first-hand experience with tuning a Weber on a Mini. They have a reputation of being bitches to tune the first time; however, once tuned they tend to stay tuned and run well.
It is the same thing I found I would have to go through if I had kept the Weber 32/36 DGV on the green Mini panel Van I had. The Weber on it had not been retuned from the factory settings which are for a 2.0L Ford engine. Search as I might, I could never find where anyone running that carb on a 1275 A-series engine ever posted their final settings once they found them. If anything, they would only post a "eureka, I found it" message, but never they final settings.
Instead of the comparable effort Vikrma is going through, I opted to switch that car back to a SU HIF6 (HIF44) carb instead.
On top of this, my battery is not charging. I used a Black and Decker charger in its alternator test mode and it gave the "alternator fault" signal, so that might be toast. Also my car seems to want to flash both rear indicators on the left turn signal :-[
I think you'll find the turn signal problem is down to a bad ground.
You can pop that alternator off and take it to any major chain auto parts store and they'll test it for free.....
Well I tried adjusting the air bypass screw and it did have some effect. Essentially by doing so you introduce a controlled air leak into the system and you can even hear it hissing if it is open enough.
I had to adjust the floats enough to keep the car fueled and alive. That combined with the opened air bypass seemed to solve the issue at first, however it soon returned back to it's usual nonsense. One thing that I learnt was that I was able to keep the car running with the throttle barely open if the bypass was open enough. Unfortunately, it meant nothing as the problem of surging persisted.
It was a brutally hot day today, and since I work on it in an open parking lot 2 hours and change was all that I could manage.
Now I also have an exhaust leak at my y-pipe to deal with and the exhaust pops like crazy. I am slowly but surely running out of patience with this.
Edit: Looking through my stash, I have an F16 emulsion tube that I might toss in and examine the difference as Jeff advised. There is currently an F2 in the car
As I have recently graduated, my living situation will be changing very soon. My job search in the US has been much like progress on the car:much effort with no success. So I will more than likely be returning to the UK, hopefully with the mini. That might give me a chance to pull it apart and fix things properly.
Never ending adeventure.
Loaded the car up today, to ship to the UK. Thanks to this forum and BruceK, I am using Phoenix Cargo for transportation.
The car will be moved to Baltimore, and then onto Southampton via Bremerhaven. This has given me the opportunity to sort out all the incorrect paperwork for the car. It is now properly registered as a red 1960 Austin Mini.
Much more to come!
Glad I could help. But sorry you've got to go.
I'm sure your car will about double in value once it returns to its birth country. The Brits threw away nearly all their early Minis because they were happy to enjoy the stream of brand new ones spitting out of Longbridge decade after decade, so a Mk I car like yours will have lots of admirers. Keep it safe. I'd be worried about it getting stolen in the UK.
The car will be in a garage in the UK, and at some point I will install some kill switch so hopefully it won't get stolen.
Given that it is a genuine LHD import, will it be more valuable if I leave it as LHD as opposed to converting it to RHD?
This is a March 1960 Longbridge car.
I dunno. I'm guessing there's an "L" in the VIN, so some really pedantic would expect it to remain LHD. But I say do what you want. It's your car after all.
Related (true) story, the point being it's YOURS, so you can do what you want with it:
Some years ago, a FW guy I knew (RIP) put out the word here in DFW among his car buddies that he desired a Ferrari, any Ferrari. One turned up, out on a farm in Azle, under an oak tree. The woman who owned the property explained it belonged to her son and she wished he would haul the junk off, so my buddy tracked the son down and bought the hulk for about $5K with no engine. I heard the story firsthand in his garage while checking out the aluminum bodied, birdcage-like hulk. Once word got out among the cognoscenti, the Pedantics as Bruce absolutely nailed, went nuts because it was basically famous and should be treated as such. My buddy, nobody's fool, retorted with "I think I'll just put a small block in it and call it a day". The Pedantics went double-dog nuts. The were frothing at the mouth, in print, worldwide. One of them from Australia paid my buddy in the six figures for the hulk. And it became this car:
https://rmsothebys.com/en/auctions/PA14/Paris/lots/r107-1955-ferrari-750-monza-spider-by-scaglietti/180951
Vikram, enjoy that Mk1:)
That Ferarri story is highlarious!!
Good luck with you and your Mini's transition back to the UK. That car is a gem on both sides of the pond.
My car arrived at the port and cleared customs last week. As the car was old enough, I only had to pay 5% VAT on the low price that I originally bought the car for. No import duty, and no 20% VAT, so I saved a fair amount thankfully. The car was successfully imported as a 1960 red mk1, and all that is left is to file for the v5 with the DVLA. No MOT since its so old!
It was delivered to Somerford Mini who will be carrying out the RHD conversion. I went up today to see the car for the first time since it left. I was planning on doing some engine work too, but I will be putting that on hold. They did a preliminary inspection which revealed that the floors would fail MOT if the car had to take one. The floors were pretty much the only thing that Dan and I did not touch in Ramona. The previous work done on it was not the best, and that needs to be fixed. I've attached an image showing when the floor work was done, 2 owners ago.
The car will undergo a full inspection later this week to reveal everything that needs to be done. So of what I know it will be floors, changing the rear subframe, weber box, full roll cage, RHD conversion, dash and general tidying. Very minimal engine work sadly, will have to save that for another time.
More to come soon...
You might want to check with your insurance company in the UK before you install a full roll cage. Some insurance companies over there will VOID your insurance if you put a cage in the car. Their take is that you will drive beyond the car's normal capabilities. Just a thought.
Yes, I have heard of that. I am going with classic insurance where you have to declare all mods. They are ok with roll cages, I might have to pay a small premium but I prefer the comfort of security.
I'm having a lot of trouble posting pictures. I have tried on both mobile and pc, but the page seems to time out after trying to upload the images. I have compressed them and tried uploading 4 but it did the same thing. Limited to 1 and it still doesn't work. Each picture is 1-2 mb. Any ideas?
Pic issues would be the connection on your end.
I don't recall the floors being rotten. Did they not like the plates you bolted over the front pans?
Huge pic test via mobile
No problem with the plates, its the way the floors are welded in. They aren't rotten they just have an issue with the welds. As the order slip from 1988 shows, they just ordered pans and seam welded them in to the cross member and surrounding panels instead of using one solid floor. In the event of an accident, the floors would offer little support. It comes from a better safe than sorry perspective. Rather than spend the money on the engine, first get the car completely sound. I agree with this outlook.
Kind of odd but I guess that's the UK for you. Is there a gap in the floor under the cross member or something?
I think they are being a bit picky, but I'm not sure all the welds were consistent. I will report back once they give their detailed analysis.
I have tried over 4G and 2 different WIFIs with no success. Just logged out and logged back in with no luck. Emptied my cache, cleared cookies etc Same issue while using my phone. No idea whats going on
Try 1 at a time or use a resize app. The forum automatically sizee them down but maybe multiple at a time is tripping it up.
Some great news. Along with being a member of this forum, I am also a part of the mk1forum. One of their members, Simon has been been very helpful in tracking down the history of my car. The car has an incorrect cooper VIN, however during my time with Dan I saw a body number 017683 on the slam panel. Using this, Simon traced down my original VIN at the heritage centre and found this:
It was built 30 March 1960, fitted with engine number 21410, painted Speedwell Blue and despatched to New York on 2 April 1960. The body number 17683 (the original tag format may have been 017683) was mated to chassis number A-A2S7L - 21406.
So now, I have to get new tags for the car and then somehow register the car with the correct VIN, even though all my import paperwork has the Cooper VIN on it. It will be quite an adventure. I will hopefully be getting some help from the 1959 Mini registry in this process.
Congrats on getting the info sorted on your car! Best of luck getting it thru the bureaucracy! BTW, is that Simon from Mini Spares?
Does Simon know if there is anyway to get a heritage cert for an Inno, or any way to get official numbers like that for it? We have the actual chassis number but I would like to get the engine number too.
Yes, it is Simon from Minispares, to my knowledge. I will certainly ask him.
Cool you got the info and yeah see what he says about the inno!
Quote from: Vikram on October 22, 2018, 07:57:37 AM
Some great news. Along with being a member of this forum, I am also a part of the mk1forum. One of their members, Simon has been been very helpful in tracking down the history of my car. The car has an incorrect cooper VIN, however during my time with Dan I saw a body number 017683 on the slam panel. Using this, Simon traced down my original VIN at the heritage centre and found this:
It was built 30 March 1960, fitted with engine number 21410, painted Speedwell Blue and despatched to New York on 2 April 1960. The body number 17683 (the original tag format may have been 017683) was mated to chassis number A-A2S7L - 21406.
So now, I have to get new tags for the car and then somehow register the car with the correct VIN, even though all my import paperwork has the Cooper VIN on it. It will be quite an adventure. I will hopefully be getting some help from the 1959 Mini registry in this process.
Great news Vikram. Good luck on the next steps.
Along with the pursuit for recovering my car's identity, I am also having some work done to the car.
I was going to have it done at Somerford Mini, but they insisted that they the entire car needs to be restored. I explained to them that it had recently undergone a complete shell tear down in 2016, and that only the floors needed work but they would not listen. I believe that they are a company that do all or nothing.
As a result, I am going to another garage in Shropshire. They are happy to do the work that I want, and they also happen to be very close to where I will be starting my new job, which means I can frequently visit them and see how the car is progressing.
The main project is the floor. I would like to do a single complete piece so as to keep welds to the minimum, and appearance to the maximum. Here is the dilemma. Minispares sell a non genuine full mk1 floor at an eye-watering £930, but on the other hand sell a genuine rod change floor for £230. My car also has a rod change gearbox as it has a later motor.
The rod change floor is quite literally perfect in every sense, except for the fact that I am putting a late floor in an early car. What do I do here? How severely will this effect the value of the car? Will the barn-find gods smite me down?
You already have a non standard engine, I'd do the rod change floor......
I agree with Dave. Also, the genuine MK-I floor may need different cut-outs made to accommodate the rod-change shifter you already have. The rod change floor will match up better for that. Unless you still have the floor start, then the later floor will not have the right shape for retaining that.
I agree too, it makes all the sense in the world to use the later floor. Decision made!
If I ever go back to original factory colour, maybe then I would return to the original floor. Then I'd have to put in a really hot 850 :D
Thanks for the advice!
Edit: I just hit the 1275cc mark for this forum. Hyped
What ended up being the concern with the floor I thought it was ok back when you did all the work to the car? welding in patch panels should be fine and offer the same support as a full floor. Unless the welding is very poor.
So the floor pans themselves are OK, however the way they were welded in is very poor. The car doesn't have to have an MOT, but if anything were to ever happen the floors simply collapse. The last time they were changed was in 1988, so it's about time.
I can do new separate panels, however I might as well change the tunnel too because I have a rod change. A single floor would offer the most structural integrity.
I'll give my honest opinion, but I think you'd be wasting your time and money replacing your floors. Even if whoever did the patches put in ugly welds, structurally they are no different than they came from the factory.
Quote from: Vikram on October 29, 2018, 02:16:58 AM
So the floor pans themselves are OK, however the way they were welded in is very poor. The car doesn't have to have an MOT, but if anything were to ever happen the floors simply collapse. The last time they were changed was in 1988, so it's about time.
I can do new separate panels, however I might as well change the tunnel too because I have a rod change. A single floor would offer the most structural integrity.
Dumb question: since it hasn't actually failed a MOT, is it possible those people who are telling you the welds would not pass are the same people who want you to pay them to fix the issue? They are not totally a distinterested party right?
Yes, Somerford Mini told me to change the floors, but then insisted on doing a full shell restoration. Hence, I pulled the car out and am now moving elsewhere.
Since the car is so old, it actually does not need to have an MOT. They just said, if it was in the position to need one, it would fail. They definitely did want to do as much as possible. I don't want to bad mouth them, as they are a reputable company, and they probably believe that if a car leaves their workshop bearing their name it needs to be perfect, i.e £25k minimum restoration.
That being said, in a moment of panic, I asked them how much they would pay for the car, if I was to sell it to to them. They gave me an interesting figure of £250 (which included not being charged £150 for a detailed ramp inspection), so in essence £100.
At that point, I politely told them I was going elsewhere. I was pretty insulted, if I'm honest. You live and learn.
Quote from: Vikram on October 29, 2018, 05:23:53 AM
That being said, in a moment of panic, I asked them how much they would pay for the car, if I was to sell it to to them. They gave me an interesting figure of £250 (which included not being charged £150 for a detailed ramp inspection), so in essence £100.
At that point, I politely told them I was going elsewhere. I was pretty insulted, if I'm honest. You live and learn.
WTF? They said that and you were still polite? You are a better man than me.
So, the implication being your car is a totally worthless POS and you must spend £££££££££ with us to make it worth more than the pitiful £100 it is currently worth? Does insulting a customer work in the UK? I would have told him to FOAD.
They are trying to rip you off. You're a young "kid" and they are taking advantage of you. I wouldnt believe anything they've said, including it would fail MOT, which it most certainly would not. The floors have no rust and all the panels are property aligned and in order. I don't even think the welds are ugly. It sure as hell doesn't need a full restoration.
Agreed. But I might do the floor anyway, I'll see what the new guys say and quote. I kinda regret doing the plating on the floor in the way I did, and a new floor would fix that. Will keep you guys updated.
Something definitely didn't feel right. Yeah, they basically valued it at 0. I'm surprised because I visited them twice and talked to them at length, showing that I knew a fair bit about the car. Yet, they still came to me with that number.
I was really worried for a few days when they initially came back with the ramp inspection. I was really doubting myself, and all the work that had gone into it. In fact it was almost a relief when I heard that number, as it was confirmation that something was up.
I'm glad it happened before any work started!
Thanks for the reassurance!
Quote from: Vikram on October 29, 2018, 07:34:21 AM
Agreed. But I might do the floor anyway, I'll see what the new guys say and quote. I kinda regret doing the plating on the floor in the way I did, and a new floor would fix that. Will keep you guys updated.
Something definitely didn't feel right. Yeah, they basically valued it at 0. I'm surprised because I visited them twice and talked to them at length, showing that I knew a fair bit about the car. Yet, they still came to me with that number.
I was really worried for a few days when they initially came back with the ramp inspection. I was really doubting myself, and all the work that had gone into it. In fact it was almost a relief when I heard that number, as it was confirmation that something was up.
I'm glad it happened before any work started!
Thanks for the reassurance!
Interior wise I'd ditch those metal plates. I can't remember how you bolted them in, but either grommets or a few welds will plug the holes. Those things just add weight and take away value. I think you were carpet-less too. At least get a budget carpet set for cheap to dress it up. There's probably a few other interior adjustments you can do to return it back to more normal mini that will help value. The body is solid and the paint is new. Having those doors matched better would be money better spent than tearing up floor pans, which will require, depending on the welding, repainting door frames and underside. I think you had gone through the suspension and most of it is new. Then you have this 1275 that just needs tuned up to run properly and you have yourself a damn nice car.
Whee, you're absolutely right. I will be getting an MOT regardless, because as you say it is for peace of mind.
Dan, yup I'm ditching those metal plates. I'm also changing the dash since it's going over to RHD. I'd really like to do the Works boxes and central speedo to give it a period race look. I will most likely be getting a blend on the doors to match the colour up a bit better.
Yeah basically all the mechanical's are new. I'm going to do a weber box to sort out my carb once and for all. The current angle it's at, and the short manifold are not helping.
Then address all the small problems to get it running well. I think I might remove the flares, and go back to the 5J cosmics that were originally on the car. Might suit it better.
There's a really good car waiting to be driven soon, it's certainly taken me long enough!
On the doors a white primer then respray in tartan will match the body. We had sprayed the body in white and when the time came, the doors in grey, giving it the wrong shade. Easy fix. Just ran out of time before it shipped out.
Vikram,
If you EVER decide to sell your Mini, do your research on what the same spec'd out cars list for on all of the classic car sites. Having just spent the last 4.5 years in the UK, all the cars I saw similar to yours seemed to go for at least £10K! I would never ever go back to those crooks as Somersfords.
No peace of mind in getting an MOT I've seen horrible cars full of bread loaves stuffed in rust covered with bondo pass with flying colors.
My 94 spi mini was this very thing.
MOT is CHEAP for a reason its a CHEAP check over.
After seeing your floors replacement would be an invasive procedure that would only hurt the car. Cutting it back apart is not going to help the integrity NO reason to do it that I can see.
Also I have heard lots of bad about Somerford and your experience confirms they are no more than crooks out for your money.
I owned a 74 restored by them work was not as good as your floor plan job is now do not trust them. Find some cars they did and really I mean really look at the work you'll see. It's OK but not great they are really good at hiding their fuck ups though.
As my friend over there says they are plastic surgeon's plastic being bondo.
OK thank you for all the replies.
Dan, thanks for the clarification on the doors. You even left an empty can for me, so I should be able to get the paint code right off that.
MiniGene, yes absolutely. I already had a good ball park figure for what the car was worth, so I knew I was being ripped off. Since my car isn't that original, £10k would be a reasonable estimate for what it is and is probably close to the sum of its parts.
Jeff, when the car arrives I'm going to tear everything out of the car and take a good look at the floor.
Surely if it was braced properly, a good floor job could be done? I will report back, but not make a final decision until I consult you guys.
Lastly, for the MOT it really depends on the garage that does it. At least it would give me a chance to look under the car and check brakes, fuel lines etc
Then again, I could just do that myself.
Are you now living in a place where you have storage, or a garage?
Makes a huge difference on what you can do at home when you have a place to work, as you found out when you stayed at Dan's....trying to work in a parking lot or on the street is not fun.
Sounds to me like you want to replace the floors more for esthetic reasons than need, and that's perfectly OK as long as the guy who does it knows what he's doing.
I take it your job is going well? Glad you're settled in now! 77.gif
I don't have space to work on the car, hence the MOT would be a useful check. But I've got this classic mini garage right up the road from me, and that's where the car is going. So I will always have a place I can take the car, if anything goes wrong.
Yep, worked on the car at Dan's shop and in my parking lot, and there is no comparison!
Job is going well, just started! On top of all this, I still have to get the v5 for the car so a long way yet to go!
Do you have another car for your daily or are you using city transportation? Are you in London proper?
Well, I am actually in a town called Bridgnorth-that's where I'm working. I know my location says London on here, but I moved out! I still go down to London on weekends every now and then.
I don't have any other car, I take the bus to work. It's a nice short ride, and it's good to have public transport as an option to get to work.
Car is at Premier Mini Company, who seem far better and infinitely more reasonable. They're a bit backed up so work won't start for a couple of weeks.
In the mean time, I came across some wheels and had to pick them up. They were priced really well and were a complete set of 5. They were the ones I orginally wanted to put on the car but couldn't find them at the time.
They're original 10x6 Weller Motorsports, single piece steel rims. They're not too common either. Slight surface rust on some of them, and will be cleaned up and powder coated. This time in black!
Nice wheels. 4.gif
I like those wheels that red and blue pin strip seemed to be common on old school steel wheels I wonder if they were all weller or just a thing back then?
Have they assessed the flors yet?
Sorry for the late reply. No WiFi in my flat as yet, moving in problems....
I've been over and looked at the floors. I will change them. It looks OK on the top but the underside shows it for what it is. Looks a bit like a patched quilt.
Lots to come soon....!
Long time, no post.
Updates so far:
I have taken delivery of my new VIN and body number tags with the correct details for my 1960. They will go on the car once the work is done, and a letter will be written from the 1959 registry to support the claim. Hopefully that goes well once the time comes!
I have finally been able to place an order for a full mk1 floor. I might as well do it properly. There is quite a long lead time as the panel is a single piece and is made to order. It is from Mini Machine, who apparently produce great panels. It certainly isn't cheap which is why it has taken me so long!
I've asked for the floor to be made for a remote 'box, i.e like the early cooper s. The magic wand would be period correct, however I have heard it is vague. Of course I have an A+ 1275, so I need a new transfer case (22G1128 is the magic number) and A series transfer gears and voila it should go together. The question is do I use this an excuse to put in straight cut drops or do I buy helical?
I have also been looking into engine management, and ECUs. MED do a really interesting kit:
https://www.med-engineering.co.uk/ancillaries/engine-management/med-ignition-management-kit
So you can stick with carbs, have complete control over timing, better reliability AND have a 3D map if you use their TPS! But man is it expensive....I could buy a really nice head with that. Then again I have been looking at 7 port heads, this is a disease.
P.S I bought a 'beater' 95 1 litre micra for my daily :-[
Aren't those Micra engines a popular swap into Minis over there? 77.gif
Glad to see you're still moving ahead with your build! Keep us posted!
Oh, straight gears are fine if you're going to be making well north of 100 hp, but for almost every other application, helicals are the way to go - straight cut gears are NOISY!
Yup, although I like the sound my concern is that it will get too much for long drives.
I think the swap is fairly common, K11 1 litre but I think turbo charging them is even more popular. It has a 5 speed, but its pretty dismal, and puts out 55 hp so the same as a stock 1275....not sure why you would swap it!
Update.
Hard to admit I was wrong about supercharging, but I was. By the time I've done it properly, it will be expensive and the results are mixed. That combined with the potential teflon issue, I'm out. So now?
Drastic change in approach to the engine. Ive sold the complete 93 rover ex spi engine, and bought this using the money. Its only a short engine, so no gearbox and no head. All happened very fast, saw an opportunity and jumped.
I had to get a different transfer case anyway because of the incoming mk1 floor, so no biggie. Central oil oickup and x pin diff are a must too.
So for power, the question is what head? Definitely something exotic. Those DOHC bmw k heads are at the top of my list, along with 7/8 port. All expensive options, but screw it. I bought the car in late 2015, I can wait a bit longer for greatness.
Anyway enough waffling, here is the engine.......
A+ block, Cooper s lightened and balanced rods, arp studs, +60 overbore with slots for valve clearance, large centre main strap.
Oh and EN40B 1071 crank! Time for a screamer.
Call Keith Calver for a top notch A series head - there is a company over there than makes the complete BMW motorcycle head kit too - Specialist Components. If you go that route you can have about 160hp with fuel injection, all plug and play.
I looked into the bike heads, the whole kit you bolt on and make tons of power. The problem for me is the A series gearbox and everything else can't take that much power without requiring a lot of costly engine rebuilds. Doing a Calver head like mine, port matching the manifold to it, and a fast road street cam (Kent 266 or equivalent) on a properly built engine is really the way to go. A fuel injection kit vs carbs or webbers may have been more appealing to me as opposed to learning everything about tuning twin carbs and cost close to the same.
Yes, Specialist Components. I am currently talking to John from SC.
I would like to avoid the 5 port route out of personal preference....
Dan, I've heard the weak points are the box over 100bhp and the crank for high rpm.
Short stroke crank and centre main strap should sort this. Leaving straight cuts for the box? Not looking for over 130bhp...
The longevity is strictly down to how you drive it.....if you're slamming shifts and doing burnouts - you will trash the box with 50 hp. If you drive it smoothly and use the power, the box will hold up - just use the cross pin diff like you said.
Stock crank is good for 7500 rpm, how high do you want to turn it?
I suppose for myself if I wanted to push 130+ out of an A series, I'd put in a D series vtec. Anthing I've ever read where guys run big cams, engine all built out, revving to high hell to get that 100+ horse power, they're rebuilding engines like I change socks. And spending a fortune to do it.
As ironic as it sounds with the mods planned I'd like to keep it mini-ish. So no vtec for me. Very cost effective though.
Since this is short stroke, and nitrided I'd like the ability to wind it to 8.5k, 9 if I can have it. For special occasions
If you're going to have that sort of RPM, you won't have any power down low, it will be miserable to drive unless you're on a race track. Just sayin......BTDT, bought the T shirt, spent the $$$$ money.
I think if you drove Dan's car now you would find it more than powerful enough, and it's still drivable under all conditions.
Quote from: Vikram on February 19, 2019, 12:32:19 PM
As ironic as it sounds with the mods planned I'd like to keep it mini-ish. So no vtec for me. Very cost effective though.
Since this is short stroke, and nitrided I'd like the ability to wind it to 8.5k, 9 if I can have it. For special occasions
That's race car talk! Bring it back down to reality ;D. Hell even my rotary I shift at 8k. You're going to be shooting for 7500 tops and that's still sacrificing just normal driving around town. 6k-6500 redline is the a series street car sweet spot.
Ive seen dyno curves for the K1100 heads and they produce a flat torque curve low down, with great power 254 cams.
Bearing in mind that the crossflow bmw head is far better ported and engineered than the a series.
What spec did you run Dave?
Got to dream big Dan! Didn't the original 1275 cooper s cars run to 8500?
Yes, race engines will turn up that high, but like Dan says they don't last, they rebuild them after every few races. Plus too and also, there is a lot of very bespoke (read expensive) stuff done to them to turn those kinds of RPMs.
Having driven Dan's car where I (briefly) planted my right foot all the way to the floor, I can tell you it is mighty damn quick. "Holy F$&@#% Sh!t !!!" was my involuntary exclamation. Something to be said for that combination of parts and state of tune.
My cruise tune was lean and had flat spots when Bruce drove it too. Also, rather than shoot for 100 to the wheels, I took enough weight off to give me a close equivalent in hp to weight ratio.
Quote from: Vikram on February 19, 2019, 01:02:50 PM
Didn't the original 1275 cooper s cars run to 8500?
Crank ponies too.
1964–71 Austin/Morris Mini Cooper S, 76 hp (57 kW) at 5800 rpm and 79 lb⋅ft (107 N⋅m) at 3000 rpm
The power to weight ratio is what its all about, and you've cut a ton of weight.
Reason why I'm adamant about high rpm is because on normal 5 ports the valve springs and push rods are major limiting factors. The K head removes this issue, that coupled with shorter bore/stroke ratio and ITBs it should get up there.
John from SC believes that 1071 on a K1100 head should hit 8500rpm comfortably. I would very much like to believe him.
You're planning to spend about £7-10K on this?
Its all talk right now.
But I was hoping to keep it closer to 6k
Quote from: Vikram on February 20, 2019, 11:56:57 AM
Its all talk right now.
But I was hoping to keep it closer to 6k
I read some info on that head today. Certainly all doable, including 8500rpms, provided the bottom end end tranny is built up and power levels are not to an absurd level. Reliability still suffers though. I think price wise you're looking at a small fortune to do it properly though. Doing my engine myself (Dave) I was in it for thousands and thousands. The S motor in the shop was at 10k built professionally.
Yes it's certainly not cheap. But the building a good engine never is.
It all comes down to if I can find a well priced engine builder or whether SC do it all, which is very pricey.
Long time, no post. But lots of progress.
The car is braced and the new floor is going in. Its just in position in the pictures for a test fit. A lovely single piece panel from M-Machine, special 59/60 floor with no inner sills.
The Custom Cages 6 point weld in Mini Historic cage has arrived, and will be going in soon. Its T45 and about 30kg.
Also the advice everyone gave me was correct. The engine build option turned out to be far too expensive, so that venture never began. I sold my short engine for what I bought it for, so no harm done but a lesson learnt.
I'm going for the engine swap option now, and I considered all the options for several months. Rover, red top, vtech were all options but I didn't want to cut the inner wings and I wanted something a little different. Instead, I'm going for the R1 conversion with a kit from Pro-Motive. They are local to me, so I got the chance to visit them and talk in detail. I dropped my subframe off for modification last week, and it will be another 6 weeks before that is done.
The considerable weight saving will offset the cage and more. The light engine will allow me to keep the 10in wheels, with some nice 4 pot brakes. The quaife ATB lsd should fight torque steer, and its a very simple and tidy conversion with no body mods. I've attached a picture of one of the kits they had when I visited, it's not mine.
There is an existing 1960 R1 build thread on here but was not finished, hopefully the car was! That uses the alternative lynx AE kit.
Hopefully a lot more to come.
Wow, the floors look great!
Can't wait to hear the R1 fire up!